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    1. · Registered
      1988 MA70 Turbo
      Joined
      ·
      101 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #4 ·
      The 2JZ-GTE and 2JZ-GE fuel rails and mounts/spacing/etc are very different so they don't interchange.
      You'll need a rail to match the GE that comes with the intake manifold you use, or you can just use the stock GE rail.

      On a 2JZ-GE (VVTi or non VVTi) fuel rail, you'll need 60mm long, 11mm inlet 'import' pattern top feed injectors. Preferably high impedance, but you can add a resistor pack if you really want to for some reason.
      The stock rail is ugly but works just fine - You can use metric to AN adapters to replace the stock banjos and hard lines. Depending on your intake manifold setup there's lots of ways to mount an AFPR to the rail itself (not my favorite method) or run a small section of hose from the return side of the rail to mount the AFPR somewhere else. You can always run a 6-AN 90* off of the stock return line port, run that line back to the firewall, and have the AFPR mounted there with the return line going down from that. Nice and tidy if done with some due diligence.

      If you're running an Ebay FFIM like the Deepmotor or similar, it should come with its own fuel rail and you can just use that. Most of them are set up for the 60mm long/14mm inlet 'domestic' pattern injectors, so you'll want ID injectors sized accordingly. Radium does not offer a GE rail AFAIK, and the mounting patterns/injector spacing is very different between the GE and GTE heads on the JZ's.

      You can often re-use the stock injector -> manifold runner seals on your aftermarket injectors, just use lithium grease or similar to make them slide in nicely. Some fuel rail kits will come with weld-in injector bungs to perfectly suit a given injector, and that's an ideal solution if possible and tends to prevent boost leaks and other issues.
      That's more common with the GTE's because of the factory side feed GTE injectors having some goofy injector seals as well.
      2JZGE TIG Billet Intake manifold W/ fuel rail & Throttle Body Supra SC300 IS300 | eBay

      Planning on the one you suggested to me a while back. Yes it comes with a fuel rail, but I dont know how it mounts to the manifold. Or if it has a fuel pulse dampener port (Doesn't look like it)

      And isn't the IS300 Fuel rail the returnless one? And are you suggesting doing the AFPR on the return side of the fuel rail, as opposed to controlling the pressure of the feed side?

      I'm going to assume 60mm injector is considered "full length"?
       
    2. · Registered
      89 Turbo - 2JZGE-T VVTi 6062
      Joined
      ·
      862 Posts
      2JZGE TIG Billet Intake manifold W/ fuel rail & Throttle Body Supra SC300 IS300 | eBay

      Planning on the one you suggested to me a while back. Yes it comes with a fuel rail, but I dont know how it mounts to the manifold. Or if it has a fuel pulse dampener port (Doesn't look like it)

      And isn't the IS300 Fuel rail the returnless one? And are you suggesting doing the AFPR on the return side of the fuel rail, as opposed to controlling the pressure of the feed side?

      I'm going to assume 60mm injector is considered "full length"?
      This is very similar to my DeepMotor one. If you figure out which IACV fits it, please let me know :D
       
    3. · Super Moderator
      Joined
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      14,039 Posts
      2JZGE TIG Billet Intake manifold W/ fuel rail & Throttle Body Supra SC300 IS300 | eBay

      Planning on the one you suggested to me a while back. Yes it comes with a fuel rail, but I dont know how it mounts to the manifold. Or if it has a fuel pulse dampener port (Doesn't look like it)

      And isn't the IS300 Fuel rail the returnless one? And are you suggesting doing the AFPR on the return side of the fuel rail, as opposed to controlling the pressure of the feed side?

      I'm going to assume 60mm injector is considered "full length"?
      Dude, the fuel pressure regulator works by being on the return side. It maintains pressure at that end and 'bleeds off' excess into the return line, that's how all fuel pressure regulators work on all return style fuel systems.

      If you're putting this in a MK3, just completely forget about all the returnless stuff. You aren't using that kind of pump, or pressure regulator, or fuel rail unles you're retroftting all that crap into your MKIII just to be that much more miserable.

      If your engine is from a returnless fuel system car (late model IS300's) just buy a cheap return style stock VVTi 2JZ-GE fuel rail, or use the one provided by the FFIM kit. Some FFIM's won't work with any other rail than the one they provide. If it doesn't come with a rail, chances are high that it works with any rail that'd mount to the stock intake runners like the Radium rail for the 2JZ-GE.

      You'll be running this all on a standalone (I hope) so there's no need to get wound up about what the stock ECU expects or whatever.
      Yes, 60mm would be 'full length' but best bet is to get the intake manifold kit in-hand before ordering injectors so you can confirm for sure.
       
    1. · Registered
      1988 MA70 Turbo
      Joined
      ·
      101 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
      Hello, I have to decided to revamp my build list in light of recent developments regarding my engine. Originally decided to go with rebuilding the 2jzge with eagle rods but decided it was not worth the risk in terms of home-building with no experience. Engine builder wanted 6000 so 4500 for brand new shortblock seems like a better idea.

      Engine
      Brand New 2JZGTE VVTI Shortblock - Install the small things from my 2jzge block like knock sensors, coolant pipes, etc.
      Rebuilt 2JZ-GE VVTI Head
      ARP Headstuds
      Toyota 2JZGTE Headgasket
      ATI Crank pulley (later)
      Oil sandwich plate for a cooler
      Modified NA-T Oil pump from Driftmotion
      Rear sump kit of course
      Driftmotion engine brackets and mounts (or maybe CXRacing ones, two different styles?)
      New gaskets of course (felpro kit from rockauto)
      Toyota oil seals (I pray to god my front mail seal does not leak, already messed two up trying to get them in and had to replace.)
      2JZGTE Throttle cable

      Thats the main engine stuff that matters that I can remember

      Trans
      Marlin Crawler rebuild (Might ship trans to driftmotion, unsure yet) - tranny has 250k on it I don't trust the wearables.
      1JZ Flywheel
      JZ Bellhousing (anyone need a 7M one?)
      R154/7M Clutch, Undecided on clutch, need recommendation. Power goal is 500whp, it is a street car.
      One piece driveshaft (later)
      New slave cylinder, maybe master too.
      Possibly Driftmotion short shift kit

      Electrics
      Tweak'd Harness
      Undecided on ECU, saving for last, I'm not sure what tuner to go with yet (Recommendation needed, Calgary area)
      Ideally wanting to do a coilpack conversion but the stock IS300 system should work? I don't want to modify my harness later though.

      Intake/Fuel
      Ebay Manifold - 2JZGE TIG Billet Intake manifold W/ fuel rail & Throttle Body Supra SC300 IS300 | eBay
      Ebay fuel rail (see above) or figure out a radium solution but having issues with mounting
      ID1050x Injectors
      AFPR (Not sure how or which one yet)
      Fuel pulse dampener if I can fit one.
      AN feed and return lines (what size? -8?)
      CXRacing (modified to fit TB) intercooler kit

      Exhaust/Turbo (RECOMMENDATION REALLY NEEDED)
      Originally I was going to go with the driftmotion 6262 kit but after hearing a bunch of negative reviews, I am having second thoughts. I may buy the turbo kit without the turbo for the other NA-T items and find a higher quality manifold and turbo (PHR Street Torque, Treadstone?)

      For the turbo, I am rather lost in terms of what ones to even be considering. I live in Calgary AB for elevation, it's a street car and the aim is a 500whp car (on a rather 'safe' tune). This area is where I am at a loss for what I'm looking for or considering as every post I have come across has not left me with a satisfied answer and just leaves me with more questions.

      I see a lot of BW S366 turbos, on 2JZ's here in Calgary, but I think that may be too big/laggy for my goal. Or various garrets like a gt35 or gt40.

      I would like my powerband to be streetable and manageable.

      Will just be going with a custom exhaust welded up at a shop here. 3in pipes, wastegate dump.

      Debating a ton of other decisions with this whole thing, but this is the main gist of things. I know I didn't mention everything, but I'm at work right now and these are the main memorable items.

      What an expensive swap to do in today's market too.

      If you have any questions about my decisions or suggestions, I'd love to hear feedback, this is my first swap on anything and I'm taking it very slow. Currently mostly because I don't make enough disposable income for this kind of thing to be done anytime soon.

      Thanks!
       
    2. · Super Moderator
      Joined
      ·
      14,039 Posts
      Hello, I have to decided to revamp my build list in light of recent developments regarding my engine. Originally decided to go with rebuilding the 2jzge with eagle rods but decided it was not worth the risk in terms of home-building with no experience. Engine builder wanted 6000 so 4500 for brand new shortblock seems like a better idea.
      Not a bad plan - be sure to keep the GE block as a backup, they're only going up in value, it seems!

      Engine
      Brand New 2JZGTE VVTI Shortblock - Install the small things from my 2jzge block like knock sensors, coolant pipes, etc.
      Rebuilt 2JZ-GE VVTI Head
      ARP Headstuds
      Toyota 2JZGTE Headgasket
      ATI Crank pulley (later)
      Oil sandwich plate for a cooler
      Modified NA-T Oil pump from Driftmotion
      Rear sump kit of course
      Driftmotion engine brackets and mounts (or maybe CXRacing ones, two different styles?)
      New gaskets of course (felpro kit from rockauto)
      Toyota oil seals (I pray to god my front mail seal does not leak, already messed two up trying to get them in and had to replace.)
      2JZGTE Throttle cable

      Thats the main engine stuff that matters that I can remember
      With the factory GTE pistons and HG and the GE head, you'll still get right around 8.5:1 static compression like a stock GTE, so that works for those purposes.
      I'd go with a Fluidampr pulley, they're 1000x easier to install than the ATi which is deliberately just barely too small for the crank snout.

      Make sure your oil cooler adapter is thermostatically controlled. Mocal and HKS and GReddy all make quality units there, the Mocal will almost certainly be more available. This is also an excellent way to install a remote oil filter mount to make oil changes much much easier.

      A modified GTE oil pump is just fine, since you're using a GTE block. The big key there is to make sure to bring over your timing belt drive gear and crank sensor from your GE block.

      The driftmotion brackets are the ones you want. The CX Racing ones have tons of fitment issues and are too expensive anyway.

      Felpro is 'meh' on quality. Get a Stone brand Japanese-made gasket set, or get Toyota genuine gaskets. Since you're going single turbo right away, don't buy a complete gasket set just identify the exact gaskets you need. Since you'll have a mostly 2JZ-GE engine you'll need the GE stuff for the top end but the GTE front and rear main seals, etc. The GTE stuff down there is the same anyway, but it's cheaper than you'd think to just buy the specific 2JZ gaskets you'll need from an online Toyota parts department from a dealership that offers a good discount.
      Installing a front or rear main seal is a bit of an art form.

      Throttle cable - that will be dictated by whatever intake manifold you go with. A stock GTE throttle cable won't always work and you may have to try several different cables before getting one that fits. Wait until you get your FFIM installed and mocked up, then measure total throttle cable length etc and figure it out from there.

      Trans
      Marlin Crawler rebuild (Might ship trans to driftmotion, unsure yet) - tranny has 250k on it I don't trust the wearables.
      1JZ Flywheel
      JZ Bellhousing (anyone need a 7M one?)
      R154/7M Clutch, Undecided on clutch, need recommendation. Power goal is 500whp, it is a street car.
      One piece driveshaft (later)
      New slave cylinder, maybe master too.
      Possibly Driftmotion short shift kit
      All a solid plan. You might consider the brand new in box R154 that DM is offering, which allows you to sell your existing R154 to offset costs and gives you a 100% brand new transmission with all the late model updates and improvements. It comes with the 1JZ bell housing too.
      Driftmotion, Clutchmasters, and South Bend all offer good single disc clutch options for an R154 car making ~500whp. Get a clutch that'll hold 550-600ish if possible, headroom is always good. Always run a damped disc in an R154, an undamped (solid) clutch disc is miserable to drive.
      Stick to a stock weight steel or lightweight steel flywheel, Aluminum has no place in a flywheel, IMHO, and I've seen too many of those segmented or hybrid flywheels with aluminum end up warping and having all kinds of other weird problems.

      Plan on new master and slave cylinders and an SS line just on principle, all that stuff is old and there's no sense risking a fresh transmission and expensive clutch to save a couple hundred bucks on cheap clutch cylinders.

      A 1 piece driveshaft is nice, but tends to bring NVH issues into the mix (vibrations, etc). For your driving goals it sounds like the stock driveshaft will work just fine so long as you've got a fresh/good carrier bearing.

      Electrics
      Tweak'd Harness
      Undecided on ECU, saving for last, I'm not sure what tuner to go with yet (Recommendation needed, Calgary area)
      Ideally wanting to do a coilpack conversion but the stock IS300 system should work? I don't want to modify my harness later though.
      RCTS was in Calgary IIRC but I have no idea if Reg Reimer is still doing Supra stuff or even still in the industry. He's a serious Supra OG from the 90's if he's still around, and is unlikely to lead you astray.
      Coilpack conversion is 100% needed, the stock IS300 coils and wires will work perfectly for your goals. Be sure to source Toyota genuine coils or Denso 'first time fit' replacements, Chinese copies are everywhere and while they may work OK on a stock engine, they're usually weak as hell compared to the OE Denso coils.
      Any ECU worth using will fully support direct operation of your IS300 coilpacks so no worries there.
      There's a ton of awesome new ECU's out there - ECUMaster, Link, Haltech, Syvecs, Motec etc all have tons of options that support a VVTi 2JZ. I'd talk to local tuners, pick one, and then have your Tweak'd harness built to match your ECU, ignition system, and injectors of choice.
      If there's one place to NOT cheap out, it's the standalone ECU.

      Intake/Fuel
      Ebay Manifold - 2JZGE TIG Billet Intake manifold W/ fuel rail & Throttle Body Supra SC300 IS300 | eBay
      Ebay fuel rail (see above) or figure out a radium solution but having issues with mounting
      ID1050x Injectors
      AFPR (Not sure how or which one yet)
      Fuel pulse dampener if I can fit one.
      AN feed and return lines (what size? -8?)
      CXRacing (modified to fit TB) intercooler kit
      Lots of folks have used those FFIM's and while they're no Sleeper Designs manifold, they do work OK. Plan on a battery relocation and make sure to mock it up in the engine bay to ensure it clears your MKIII's brake booster with the mounts you choose. While DM brackets have been used on 2JZ's with those intakes in other MK3's, you never know for 100% sure until you've got it all in-hand.
      The fuel rail shouldn't be an issue either, as much as I love Radium's stuff.
      ID1050X's are perfect and should support ~650whp on E85 or 900+whp on race gas. So more than adequate and they're really nice to tune, too. Good injectors make a major difference in driveability and tuning time for standalones.

      Radium makes a lot of wonderful AFPR's and the Fuellab stuff works pretty well too. I wouldn't worry about an FPD especially at your HP level but Radium offers an AFPR with one built in if you want one.
      -8AN feed works great. You can use a -6AN for a return line and just run a whole new line, or you can use the stock feed line but you'll have to eliminate the stock fuel filter above the rear subframe which is kind of a PITA to get to in a MKIII. Be sure to source a genuine Walbro 450 or 525 fuel pump, with the number of Chinese fakes out there it can be difficult. Easiest way to explain it is don't buy genuine parts from eBay or Amazon, they're almost all fakes. Plenty of reputable performance shops with online parts sales can sell you exactly what you need for a fuel pump (and injectors) and then you'll have someone to go to if something is wrong.

      Exhaust/Turbo (RECOMMENDATION REALLY NEEDED)
      Originally I was going to go with the driftmotion 6262 kit but after hearing a bunch of negative reviews, I am having second thoughts. I may buy the turbo kit without the turbo for the other NA-T items and find a higher quality manifold and turbo (PHR Street Torque, Treadstone?)

      For the turbo, I am rather lost in terms of what ones to even be considering. I live in Calgary AB for elevation, it's a street car and the aim is a 500whp car (on a rather 'safe' tune). This area is where I am at a loss for what I'm looking for or considering as every post I have come across has not left me with a satisfied answer and just leaves me with more questions.

      I see a lot of BW S366 turbos, on 2JZ's here in Calgary, but I think that may be too big/laggy for my goal. Or various garrets like a gt35 or gt40.

      I would like my powerband to be streetable and manageable.

      Will just be going with a custom exhaust welded up at a shop here. 3in pipes, wastegate dump.

      Debating a ton of other decisions with this whole thing, but this is the main gist of things. I know I didn't mention everything, but I'm at work right now and these are the main memorable items.

      What an expensive swap to do in today's market too.

      If you have any questions about my decisions or suggestions, I'd love to hear feedback, this is my first swap on anything and I'm taking it very slow. Currently mostly because I don't make enough disposable income for this kind of thing to be done anytime soon.

      Thanks!
      I'll be completely honest- there's negative reviews about literally every turbo kit that exists, and negative reviews of every single shop that's been open longer than 1 year.
      Driftmotion is good about getting you value for the money with parts that do actually fit and work. Many of those parts are made in China and are copies of Japanese designs, but unlike buying some crap from CXRacing or some random eBay seller, DM at least does some basic QC/QA and ensures it's all exactly what they expected, and isn't some random batch of stuff from another producer in China that looks close to whatever they had before. If you're on a budget for an NA-T 'set up' kit, by all means go with their turbo kit W/O turbo.

      That said, a quality turbocharger is seldom cheap. DM again offers a very good budget solution and they use quality internal parts and actually have the turbos balanced so they're actually going to work as intended and make decent HP with relatively OK reliability. If you want reliable, get a genuine Garrett or Borg Warner turbo.

      Suprastore (yes, that one) offers a surprisingly decent non-Chinese 2JZ-GE manifold and they offer a lot of different options (undivided or divided, lots of WG options and choices, etc) and it's generally under $1k depending on your chosen configuration.

      Given that you're working with ~3000ft elevation and you want 500whp, I'd look at the Borg Warner S362 SX-E with a .68 or .81 open T4 or a .83 divided T4 housing, depending on whether or not your T4 manifold has an open or divided flange. A 3in downpipe like the included Driftmotion one will work fine with an open dump wastegate for your HP goals, but going to 3.5in or 4in will reduce lag a bit more and open up the top end HP a bit, but it isn't as critical for your goals or a turbo of that size. The smaller S257 will spool like a rocket ship but I don't think it'll get to 500whp on pump gas with this engine combo, more like 425-440whp. For the ~$1000 range there really isn't anything else that's competitive from Garrett for this HP range. For ultimate spool and performance there's a lot of expensive modern Garrett turbos that are simply outstanding.
      But if it were between a $2500 turbo and $1000 engine management package vs $2500 engine management and a $1000 turbo, I'd take the $1000 turbo every single time.
       
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