Supra Forums banner
1 - 20 of 80 Posts

· Registered
Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
Joined
·
678 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Washed and waxed her today getting ready for furniture pads all over while the drive train is test fitted tomorrow. Had a build thread on another forum, but this seems to be the place for a new one. In 16 years she’s been in three garages. She’s only been outside and under cover for less than six months. Hopefully there will be room back inside in the next week or two. Building management gave me permission to park outside for “3weeks”. I have been saying the 3 weeks start once they notice it’s taking a parking space. They do appreciate that their driveway has 24-hour surveillance with someone responding to all the text notifications :). There are more pictures, parts lists and other stuff at ToyotaSupraTurbo.com, although I don’t update the site regularly. I find the forums much more interesting and usually don’t follow links without good reason. So here we go with My Build Thread. Hope you enjoy as it grows. Lots left to come.

 

· Registered
Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
Joined
·
678 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Sweet URL, could probably hand that one off for a pretty penny.
"Original Purchase Price from Kars4Kids was $525 plus $190 towing." If that's what you got the car for, what condition was it in when you got it?
Dash idea is super cool. Newer stand alone ECUs with gauge output via blutooth would work great with that if you could multiplex the addressing somehow.
Drill down on the top level photos and there's ton of pictures taken the week she came home (on a flat-bed truck with a BHG)
Exterior 2005 – toyota supra turbo

The original plan was to put three 7" screens in place of the OEM gauge cluster. I tried about six different mounting panels and no matter what I did, I could never figure out how to recreate all the functionality. Little things, like the TEMS LEDs. The switch has two positions, but the TEMS computer creates a third and implementing that was beyond me. Besides, one of the things people love about a Supra is the cockpit like setup. Take that away and I felt it would lose a lot of appeal. The current plan is to mount two of the three original screens in a frame "floating" on an articulated arm... somewhere up and to the right of the gear shift. I also originally joined the beta team for Amazon Echo development and was running a couple of different versions with the hope that I could change screens by voice command, like, Computer, Setup Turbo Mode, and immediately the screens would have the best gauges for that mode. Other modes like cruise, or travel, each with similar commands. Amazon, as has also proven true with their AWS component, beat me to the punch and came out with an auto Echo. It's got EIGHT microphones and cannot hear worth a damn even in a quiet car. Imagine in a Supra with a Blitz Nur exhaust. At one point I had 8 cameras in the plan, but everything I made work was sort of cheesy. I had two that were going to be in my rear view mirrors, and the image was displayed on the left and right screens... out there with a voice command to the Echo. I made the cameras work, but the result was so poor that I didn't want to ruin irreplaceable mirrors. The two remaining 7" screens each have a camera, one daylight images, one night views. Raspberry PIs, of course, I want one trained on the passenger, and one on the window where the cop will be standing. That stays, but needs to be someone switchable since the camera functionality is different between the two. Tuner Studio is the software to both tune the ECU, and to make the gauge images and displays. Originally, I build a bridge from the Speeduino to the RasPis, but developments there have made that interface easier. I have done quite a bit of tinkering with the electronics and still waiting for my real ECU. There's a chip shortage. Various versions of the Speeduino have gone from thru the hole mounting of components to surface mounted devices (SMDs). Each release gets better, like 30% to 60% to 90%, yet, some of the files needed to build the boards (Gerbers) are not available yet. This is also the case with the projects latest development, at least one of the latest, named Drop Bear. Check the Wiki, Drop Bear is a mythical beast in Australian folklore. Ironic that this board isn't ready yet. My field of dreams, if I build it, they will come.
 

· Registered
Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
Joined
·
678 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
This is how she's sitting tonight with her butt up in the air.

262612


I am sure you've seen several of the engine pics, but for the sake of the thread, here is what she's getting in the morning.

262614


This is just a "test fit" to give me a chance to get all the external stuff aligned and fitted. Things like hardpipes and oil lines, harnesses for spark and fuel, and the lines for my trigger sensors. There's lots to do until the chip shortage is over. I took the engine out by myself in 2005. I have three friends coming to help in the morning to put it back in the bay. It took a week to get it out. We're planning 2-3 hours to put it in, but in all honesty, it's only 8 bolts: 2 motor mounts, four on the transmission mount, and two on the engine damper thingy... which really isn't required to put it back it. With everything set right, and the hoist working properly, I'm expecting it to slide right in. Wish me luck!
 

· Registered
Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
Joined
·
678 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Nice. I saw the engine pics, very nice and clean. Getting it in there won't be a problem, just need the extra hands to keep it from bumping things as you settle it in and bolt it down.
Very familiar with the chip shortage you are referring to, I'm a PM at a F100 company and it's basically halted a lot of my 'work' the last couple of months. Thankfully I'm salary lol.
Would love to see more of your projects with the rPIs. I want to use some of them as well as old intel hardware I have laying around to make a home automation/alarm system to interface with a private email system, just not sure how to go about it. Any websites for more information you recommend in this regard are appreciated.
Here is a picture of my first computer. I built it in 1976 after reading in the New York newspaper that the Radio Shack Tandy Computer was going to be a kit. It wasn't out yet, all speculation, so I started with an ASCII key board, then I had to build something to prove that it worked. This picture was in 1978 and the $10,000 scope was not mine. My only degree took me seven years to get, one or two classes at the time, for a two-year degree. A neighbor was impressed with me and took an interest in my hobby and offered me a job. The scope was a loaner from that job. The computer was an RCA 1802 COSMAC (a.k.a. VIP and ELF, details I forget exactly today). I could go on with a "what I learned about this from that" story, but I digress. Here's the picture:

262615


Another, a year later in 1979, about the time my first son was born. He literally grew up on a computer. Somewhere I have a picture of him SITTING on my ASCII keyboard.

262616


There was about $3000 invested on this bench, and it had just about the capability of a 1980 Commodore Computer. Things had definitely evolved and I think there was a dozen circuit boards, some of which I had made from scratch, three tape recorders, and a paper-tape reader. I learned Tiny Basic from software loaded with that reader, and a year later, I had several phone conversations with one of the founders of the C language at Bell Laboratories. My second job in the industry was as a flunky working one-on-one with a graduate student / genius. We, using the term lightly, developed a multi-user operating system for a one-off DEC microcomputer a full year before DEC had one.

My studies, my jobs, my projects were all before the internet. There were no groups to join really. I was on one ANSI Standards Committee for Pascal, but definitely a bit player.

I tend to do off-the-wall, odd-ball things... and they don't always work out. I typically don't involved others in my folly. I just go along. At one point I had something like thirty different computer languages on my resume... "experience in or exposure to" type of references. Somewhere along the line I found the most interesting, and often the most useful positions, where on the data end of things. Every project needed data, and I'd write tools to get it. That evolved into my being a database administrator. That was in the day where a DBA wore many hats. I had offices in the Pentagon on seven different projects, and I worked on, and closed down, turning off the lifts, physically, on the Space Station Freedom project... the predecessor to the International Space Station.

I am still a DBA and I still work occasionally, but I am 73 and retired. My Supra and my two sons are pretty much my life. I can't imagine anything I've done with the Pis to be worth sharing :) They're cute, and they can do a lot, and when you need one it's nice to have one. We've got a few of them around the house now. A couple of firewalls, and two at the garage I'm trying to get stabilized on 12 volts power. Nothing worth sharing. I've collected a bunch of IOT type devices and usually have parts to put together when I get an idea. Most of those early ideas are dead now... I will still bury an Arduino in the console to implement a push-to-start button, but it's a joke since you still have to use a key to unlock the steering column and the doors.

Real engineers, like real mechanics, get jobs done much faster and efficiently then I do. I'm really just playing anymore. I would always encourage others to do the same. The road less traveled has proven to be interesting... and I obviously view the path taken as a success, regardless of what works :)

No more tonight. I've got an engine to put in tomorrow. See you around the forums.
 

· Registered
Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
Joined
·
678 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What a fantastic start! I love the color, but I'm a sucker for silver/grey/black MKIII's.

I grew up a nudge behind you but similarly. In the mid 80's I was playing Sopwith on my Dad's IBM 8088 XT with its fancy Samsung EGA monitor. Later my first 'gaming PC' build was a 486 DX2/66, 8mb of RAM so I could play Doom without a boot disk. In the late 90's, I hid a copy of Doom II on my high school's IDX/SPX computer lab network and we'd play after school. My teacher never did find where we hid the installer, but he quit trying when it was clear we weren't sharing it with other kids and messing up classes as a result.

Congrats on all the hard work so far - how old is that repaint on your MKIII? It looks great!
Thanks for the kind words. I definitely remember when EGA was the monitor. I probably had a similar PC around that time, but was never so much into games. Now, my sons, always were, still are today, and that's cool... just not me.

The paint was done in December to February 2006/2007 time frame. I lived in an apartment and had one of 50 two-car garages at the complex. We were not allowed to work on cars there, officially not ever to fix a flat tire. That's where I took it apart. The maintenance men know I was working on it, and they'd come down and use my bench grinder to sharpen their flat-blade screwdrivers. No problem. I just had to shut the door when the resident manager was looking around. They decided to replace all the garage doors and we all got two weeks notice that the garages had to be empty by January 3rd for the team coming in from Phoenix to replace the doors. I took two weeks off work because my car not only had no tires, it had no suspension. All of that was apart to replace the bushings. The machine shop that was to do the work left my stuff sitting on a cart, and I picked it up undone on New Years Eve. I paid $720 for another shop to open and do the pressing working after six on the holiday. Then I had the car flat-bedded to a shop in Escondido CA named Car Coat. It was known to be sort of like Macco, i.e., cheap quick jobs. The manager was a friend, sort of, and he had a 1953 Chevy that he'd done. He promised to take six weeks, doing the work slowly, and I paid extra for a few things. When the car was shot, it was the last car of the day. Instead of 3 coats of clear, it got five and then it stayed in the booth over-night with both the lights and fans left running. The prep-work and process included block sanding after primer, and after the color, and the clear was never block sanded. It still has not been today. Each of those steps was $500., so I cheeped out and only did it twice :) They made three little mistakes, one, they took the door handles off, but painted the gaskets anyway. Two, they painted with one headlight up, and one headlight down, leaving the side on the right light unpainted... i.e., black. It was a black car originally. The color is Porsche Seal Grey. The paint is Dupont. The third mistake was that they took my carbon fiber hood off the car so it would not be painted. I had specified it was to be painted, so they had to spray it separately. With the exception of the last six months, the car has been garaged 100%. While outside, it has been covered except when working on it. I have buggered a couple of places, but nothing serious. I left under the hood black intentionally, but I honestly thought there were all black. Mine was black because it's a black car.
 

· Registered
Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
Joined
·
678 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Great day! Friends (left to right) are Jonathan, Mike and Jessie. Thank you guys, so much.


The drivetrain is back in the car. Below is a photo gallery from today's installation. Sort of makes it look like I wasn't working, and I must admit, my friends did a ton of work. I definitely could not have done it without them.

We planned on two to three hours and started at eight with bagels and coffee. The jack stands and pads where in place and the engine was on the hoist in front of the car when everyone arrived. The actual work took about an hour. Another hour was spent drinking beer, at the end, and talking about anything and everything. Jonathan has owned three Supras and is currently down to one. He is running a stand-alone and going with the Hitachi R35 coils. Now I am building two harnesses instead of one. One advantage to this is that it forces me to do a better job. An immediate improvement is that I am not using butt connections for the clips, but crimping and inserting new pins. That makes for a much neater harness. Anyway, on to the gallery....


Note about this photo gallery: If you view the gallery and use the arrows to navigate you only see the first page. There are three pages and 63 photos, but you have to navigate with the "view full gallery" link to see them all. You can tell you're not seeing them all if the hood is still on the car. It was removed to do the installation. (Still, it is a much cleaner post using the gallery option)
 

· Registered
Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
Joined
·
678 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Saw your post on FB, my friend your level of patience is quite admirable. This build is really something. I'm looking forward to following this.
Thank you. Good to see you here, too. This is something I always wanted to do, and I am fortunate enough that I get the chance.
 

· Registered
Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
Joined
·
678 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
262750


Picture through one of my security cameras. Lazy day today, put the front of the car up to the height of the rear. It’s a hairy job and one of the rear stands rocked up on two legs. While testing the stability, noticed that the rear axle nuts weren’t tight enough, so took the rear wheels off and fixed that situation.

Other little jobs today routing AC and PS hoses, fixed a vacuum line that was pulled off, and decided to mount the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) where the igniter used to sit next to the fuse box. Oh yeah, also cut the igniter leads off the wiring harness and put heat shrink on the cut wires.

Validated that my choice for using 18 gauge wire on the coils is the right choice. My friend Luis Arreaza, of YouTube channel LFATV fame confirmed he also used 18 gauge on his coil harness. Thank you Luis. Another friend, @figgie, confirmed for me yesterday that I have the right tools for the job. Thank you Wayne.

Set up an assembly area to build two of those harnesses. The second for my friend Jonathan. Building something for someone else makes one think again about the design. Jonathan got two estimates of $1500 to build one of these harnesses… kind of makes me wonder what I’m missing. The materials are less than a couple hundred bucks.

I guess it wasn't such a "lazy day" after all. That's a lot to accomplish.
 

· Registered
Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
Joined
·
678 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Nice thread. As I'm nearing the stage of putting the rebuilt original engine back in my project Supra, it's great to see this moving along. Thanks for taking us on the journey, too!
As happy as I am with most of the results obtained, I can't help but realize how trivial some of this is really. For instance, there's a mk4 thread on here where the guy has taken the car down to the bare bones, mounted it on a rotisserie and he is making everything just perfect. I mean, hell, some men build rocket ships and fly to the edge of space in less time :)

I do appreciate the encouraging words, and if it helps you complete your build, all the better. Thank you for watching.

I posted what things I did Sunday, and while I know I was there on Monday, it's hard to distinguish what I did that day. Mostly clean up, think, admire and organize things, and made a list of little parts I needed from Toyota. I stopped at the dealer on the way to the garage this morning and ordered a handful of small parts. They arrived from LA by two. Can't say Toyota doesn't do a good job for such an old car. Six hour service for things that I didn't necessarily expect to be available.

I've made a new gallery of photos on today's work and it's not self-explanatory, so I will post the pics one-by-one and comment.

The bracket for the Lexus AFM, as well as the OEM piece, is secured to the passenger wheel arch. No way imaginable could I get it to fit. I will jury-rig something eventually, but for now, it is held in place by the rubber hose pieces and tightened worm clamps. I also found out while looking for pictures that I left off the secondary support bracket for the PS pump. Sure enough, I have it. I doubt that I can get it on now, but when I do this for real it will be fitted.


It's tight in there. Here's a picture of the K&N air filter from the other side. I didn't annotate any of the photos before loading to this gallery, but if you know what you're looking for you can see the location on the wheel arch where the bracket is supposed to attach. It's not going to matter in the end anyway, as the other hard-pipes are going to have to be customized anyway. The intake pipe with the blow-off valve that has been in so many other pictures doesn't want to fit either. I always wondered why there were so many different hard-pipe configurations. I think I know now. I'm not the first one to face this issue.


The Cusco shock tower brace adds to the complication on the hard-pipes, and it presents it's own problems on the installation. First off, you cannot use the OEM covers on the TEMS motors, that's a given. As the brace is installed in these pictures, the motors hit the brace... just mildly, but they hit and they should not. I'm thinking that one washer under each of the mounting bolts (and also under the OEM ring) will give me just enough lift that they don't touch. The metal tube attached to the "3000 pipe" is a bit stressed, too, and the angle one of the vacuum lines comes off seems a bit odd. It goes up when I'd think it should go down. Perhaps that's because of my after-market "3000 pipe"? Not sure yet.


Oddly enough, one of the things I ordered from Toyota today were four washers for 3 bucks a piece. When I got to my car and opened my order there were four bags of four washers each, and the parts man said "Yeah. That's how Toyota sells them". He didn't seem to know that when he ordered them for me, and he didn't want them back. They may just be perfect.


One more shot of the Cusco brace... okay, three more shots....


It's a tight fit for sure. I would love to have a bit more clearance. Hopefully those free three dollar washers will give me exactly what I need. Tomorrow is grocery shopping day, so I won't know until Thursday. Plenty of time to think it through. Plenty? More than enough :)


I have the new plug, pins and seals for the CPS courtesy of @Piratetip. Thank you Nick. That will be done, probably for the final installation.


Those brackets holding the TEMS motors have a story, too. I special ordered them from Toyota several months ago, and the order came back discontinued. I posted on FB and found someone in Canada with two he was willing to sell, so I bought them. I gave him the wrong ZIP code which turned out to be on a military base and I could not get into the post office to ask about them. IT took two months for them to work their way back to Canada, and my friend shipped them back to me.

The wires to the TEMS motors will get shortened and will maintain the disconnect feature 'cuz without that you can't get the brace off the car, or the engine out.

The metal top radiator hose (pipe) was too long and without cutting off a half inch, I could not get the radiator centered. Easy fix.


There is still an issue with the radiator, two issues, actually. The protrusions on the bottom of the radiator that are supposed to fit into the center of the rubber mounts are in the wrong places. It's a brand new radiator, purchased 15 years ago. The EPA was shutting down radiator shops back then, and the guy I bought it from had a radiator shop that could not do many radiator repairs. He also had a barn at his house where he did things that I presume are illegal today. He's still in business. Wonder if he still has a barn?



The Hitachi R35 smart coils do not need an igniter, so that location next to the fuse box is available. I am going to use that for the Aeromotive FPR. Nice that it is a straight shot from the fuel rail to there. If you mount it on the shock tower the hose is bent and there's a risk that it will touch the lead on the alternator. I've been told that can cause a fire. At least some things work out well. Okay, all of these things will work out well. It just takes time... and for me, a lot of time.



I think that's about it for today. It rained yesterday and that prompted me to get the two seams in my car cover that were ripped repaired. I took the cover to a sweet old lady who does such work in a 14x14 closet of a shop and she gave me four hour service. Another win. Wish I had more business for her... except letting out the waist on my pants is not preferred :)

Oh yeah, another Harbor Freight recall. This time on propane heaters of which I had two. I used them to cure powder coating on anything bigger then 4" square. It was nice to get $120 back for something I bought four years ago, but it also made my powder coating equipment, a small oven, and about six bags of powder worthless.

That's all for Tuesday.
 

· Registered
Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
Joined
·
678 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Looks great as usual!
If you want to get some pretty solid powder-coating equipment, I personally really like Eastwood's cure lights, but any sort of heater like that works. For a while I was using old Restaurant Heat Lamps 🤣
These threads have helped me a-lot with my MK3. Good Luck!
Thanks for the kind words. I know I look a lot at what others have done... even if I don't follow in their footsteps. It's all part of my process. Glad they help you in some small way. They help me, too, to remember what I've done. Not sure how much powder coating I need to be doing now. I got rid of my blasting cabinet prolly two years ago and it wasn't just a standard Harbor Freight box... it had all the available modifications and was never worth what it cost me. Good old rattle cans do a pretty good job. I will look at the Eastwood lights if I decide that I have to be doing that again. With the car out of the garage space, I tend to start other projects, too. Between hard-pipes and exhaust, I think I will be practicing my TIG welding skills. I have a Blitz Nur cat-back exhaust, and it doesn't fit right. The Kaminari rear bumper skin flares out, where the OEM skin tucks in. This makes the car longer and the exhaust sits too far under the bumper. Also, and I've already made these welds, there are two cats on Supras, as near as I can tell, a 49-state version and the California version. There's a 1 1/2" to 2" difference in their lengths, making the first pipe in the cat back too long (I have the longer of the two CATs). I did enjoy the few things I powder coated though. It is a fun process. Thanks for suggesting Eastwood to me.
 

· Registered
Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
Joined
·
678 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
No problem! Honestly, the only reason I recommend them is because their Rust Encapsulator works so damn well. TIG is pretty hard, I wish I had the space for a proper TIG setup, but my garage is a mess right now. I did all my body repairs with a stick welder and 6010 Electrodes, so getting a TIG would be huge upgrade. The other process I've been messing with is home Electroplating, theres a good video by Geoffrey Croker on it. There's an old 3000 pipe sitting around that's gonna become a brush + scraper holder for my workbench soon :whistle:
Here's the video link if you want it
I’ve learned to weld through YouTube videos. I was 16 when I used stick, and then not much. MIG would have been a more useful next step, but I wanted to weld aluminum. The plasma cutter feature has proven useful, too. My results aren’t Instagram quality, but I believe they are solid.

Here’s a picture of what I did on my front pipe for the wideband O2 sensor.

262818


I’m not showing the damage I did when attempting to weld brackets for my seat belts. That job and several subsequent attempts to repair keep me awake if I think about them.

Alright, I’ve gotta go. Grocery shopping day here. I’ll check out the electro-plating link later.
 

· Registered
Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
Joined
·
678 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
Several things accomplished today and a couple on the list from the previous post. I tried putting two washers on each of the bolts on the shock tower to give the Cusco brace some room. That was definitely too much as the nuts now only tighten about half way on the thread. I changed it to one each on each bolt and that's tolerable. It does give the clearance between the bar and the motors and also on the pipe attached to the 3000 pipe.

The speedometer cable was on the wrong side of the car when the drivetrain was installed and took a bit of effort, tucking and pulling, to get it on the right side and connecter. The original clips at two places aligned very well.

The radiator was in yesterday and the two little modifications required are noted. I mounted the dual fans to the radiator using tie-wraps. It's not permanent, but will give me the layout I need to run my oil filter / cooler relocation lines. I will have to come up with a better idea to secure them.

Drilled the holes for the Aeromotive FPM and mounted it. Attached the return line to the FPM and left the lower connection to be done. The feed has to be connected, too.

Connected a couple more wires, still have a few to figure out and connect. Seems there is a bit of a mess around the fuse box, and I will have to figure that out.

Worked on getting the hood to close correctly and still need to add some spaces or washers at the hinges to get it to lay flat. The four hood bumpers seem to get in the way and they seem to be different types, not 2 and 2 different, but 1 and 3 different. I checked once at the dealer and they were 8 bucks a piece. I should have gotten them as they are bound to be discontinued now. We'll see. I am also installing a polished stainless steel panel to cover the gap around the hood latch I think once I get the hood bumper stops right that this will fall into place.

Hard-pipes are absolutely not lining up. I'll have to Google more pictures to figure those things out.

Tried to fit the drive shaft and gave up. Posted in the forum for help and will try again soon. I think that is all for Thursday. Lunch was great and now it's time for a nap.
 

· Registered
Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
Joined
·
678 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
Please tell me you're going to bring this car to Supras in Vegas once it's on the road and sorted out? I'd love to be able to see it up close. It's honestly inspiring to see such care put into a Mk3.

As for mounting the radiator fans, I simply made some brackets out of some aluminum sheet I had laying around, off cuts, if I recall. I'm not one to waste material, and in this case, it was easy to drill, file, and bend into the shape I needed. Was just 18ga aluminum, if I recall... a vise, hammer, sockets to form nice smooth bends... just typical garage built here, but they work well!

Hood alignment is one of those things that just takes a lot of tinkering, but I have no doubt you'll sort it out.

Hard pipes, it might not hurt to wet the inside of the couplers before attempting to put them onto the pipes. Even a bit of spit will do the trick, crude as that might sound. I've also heard of using WD40, as apparently it's slipper when wet, but acts as a type of adhesive once it dries, so the couplers stay on better. Either way, don't tighten any of them until you've got them all connected, and don't forget to put the clamps on first, that's not a fun thing to remedy after fighting to get a pipe on...

On the driveshaft, I'm guessing that you're using the stock two piece shaft? If so, I seem to recall the carrier bearing having just a bit of fore and aft play. Or... You know what? I bet you have the center bolted to the floor pan, don't you? Loosen that up, but don't let the bolts all the way out. Then the back end should have enough play to attach to the diff side of things. :)
SIV has been a goal for years although not sure about the 10 hours of round trip driving. We will see. It’s not a show car though. I’m still an amateur.

I’m okay at bending metal and your idea for securing the fans is a good one.

I got the part number for the hood bumpers, and noticed there are two styles. They’ve got a funny little symbol next to them in the listing and I couldn’t find a definition for that. I’ll get four of whatever is available.

it’s a carbon fiber job, and it recently started not fitting properly on one side. After taking it off for the install, the washers I had used to align it got lost and not installed. I have hood pins I plan on using. It’s just take work to get it done.

The hard-pipes don’t just not go together easily but seem almost totally wrong. I’ve get two sets, plus I think I still have the original rubber pieces. Maybe I’ve got something backwards or I’m putting it in the wrong place. Not sure yet. It’s what I get for sourcing things myself vs. a DriftMotion kit, I guess. Some are the anodized aluminum over steel, and others are black powder coated. I’m guessing I just have the wrong pieces.

The driveshaft is an aluminum one-piece, and it’s not fitting in the tailshaft now that I have a new seal in place. It fit before with the old seal. I’ve got that part number looked up too and will buy another. This is a test fit for everything for exactly these reasons. It’s just going to be a pain sorting them out.

Thanks for the encouragement, feedback and suggestions. It’s all very helpful. I’m worn out tonight. I’ll probably visit my car tomorrow and try not to do much, then get back on it Saturday.

There’s still so much to be done. I don’t see how people get it so quickly. Crawling all over the engine today to get the speedo cable hooked up, I saw that second hose for the heater core from the back of the head. It’s going to be the bear I always heard it was. Hard to imagine a pleasant exercise :)
 

· Registered
Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
Joined
·
678 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
Unless you're literally paid to build Supras for people, I'd say you're an amateur in this world. That makes two of us! Yet people seem to enjoy seeing my car up close all the same. Just seeing clean examples of these cars is a treat.

The funny symbol you mention in regards to the hood bumper, looking at the EPC, it would appear that there is a Type A and a Type B hood bumper:


One has a nut on the bottom end for adjustment, perhaps as a locking mechanism? I'm thinking that either one is going to thread into the unibody "horn" from the looks of things.

On the fitment issues, it is possible that parts may be mismatched, but it could be any number of things. Is the snout of the driveshaft tapered at all? I forget. I do seem to recall it being good practice, or perhaps even TSRM direction to grease up the lip seal lightly before putting the driveshaft in. Could be so tight of a fit that if the seal were dry, it might not all the shaft all the way in? Gosh, that sounds dirty, my apologies. :p

Another thought is that I saw you mention refreshing the subframes. I don't think they are adjustable at all, but... I could be mistaken.

I wouldn't worry about the pace my friend. I'm half your age, and it's taken me nearly as long, and my car is still in pieces too, and it doesn't look nearly as good. That said, I think it is in the book of Timothy, that we are to run our own race. :)

Also... yeah... that rear coolant hose is a pain. I'm pretty sure that hose is why I own angled and hose pliers, now that I think about it. One of the best investments I've ever made!

I saw the type A Type B note, but thought there would be more to it in the introduction pages. I have three of one, and one of the other... and they both have nuts, but the rubber is slightly different. I forgot to swing by the dealer this morning... prolly just as well, as I'm looking at my boxes of hoses. Back in the day, 15 or so years ago when I bought the new radiator (that isn't correct), I also bought a bunch of hoses.

Here's a picture of what I have left from that purchase. The one big one with the 90 degree bend was obviously supposed to be the top hose. The other 1 1/2" one was an attempt at the bottom hose. The part number says it's for a Toyota tractor of some model. It clearly does not fit my car :)

262859


These were picked from the stock in this guy's barn, one-by-one matched with an old one I had with me. Few were perfect, they were the correct diameter and had an appropriate looking bend. At the time, 2006 +/-, the dealer quote for all hoses was something insane like $1400. I got off with a couple of hundred... and I have used many of them... this s just what's left.

So I still have to find a hose for the one we're talking about going to the heater core. I'm going to try and buy a new one, vs. making something I bought back then work. The space is just too confined.

Good info on the pliers to use, and below, another tip how to make one. I haven't looked in the tool box yet to see what I've got, but don't remember anything like these.

There is a slight taper, I'd call it a bevel, that goes about 1/8" then the shaft is straight. I greased that sucker up big time...made a real mess and did laundry when I got home. I will get another seal and check the fit, and if it fits off the car, will prolly just wait to install for the final fit. That saves the locking coating on the new bolts and I won't have to hit the bolts with Loctite blue. I don't expect much more of an issue with the shaft fitment though.

The sub-frames are about the only bushings I did not do. Sorry I didn't 'cuz it was so far apart back then, but, not done. I did notice while under the car that the braided brake lines I used had an issue. They are installed, but the brackets that were pre-installed on the lines did not allow the hoses to go through the OEM clips holding them in place. I used tie-wraps there, too. I plan on fixing those, just because :)

It's 10 AM here, and I've been here since 7:30. Haven't done a damn thing but look, think and take pictures, and respond to the posts here. Going to take the rest of the day off, find an air conditioner and a TV and have a couple of beers.

Thanks to everyone for reading and helping me out. I appreciate you all. Have a great day. I'll be back tomorrow :)

David
 

· Registered
Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
Joined
·
678 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
Got the driveshaft installed but can’t turn it by hand. Turned the rear wheel to get the four bolts installed. Installed the shifter and the tranny won’t shift. Was able to get it in 1st and 2nd, then back to neutral. It shifted on the stands before the install. Will address it when it’s out again. For now, this lets me mount the safely loop, and that’s what this test install is all about… mounting stuff.

The hard-pipes for the intercooler are still proving to be difficult. It appears the the one off the 3000 pipe with the blow-off valve was upside down and backwards. Here’s how it fits best today.

262868


It’s still not right and it hits the oil feed -AN fitting on top of the turbo, and it doesn’t align with the next pipe that come through the fender area. I took the MAF pipe and air filter off and played with the connector hoses with a little success.

I had previously messed with the clocking of the front housing on the turbo in order to make room for the lower pipe off the turbo. That needed to be done to make room for the oil feed -AN 90 degree fittings to clear the PS pump. Now I may have to clock the other side of the turbo to clear this hard-pipe. Sometimes we go around in circles.

Turns out the the one pipe I had coming off the IC was not for there. It is 1/2 of the tube from the bottom of the turbo to the other IC connection.

262869


The pipe in the above picture along with another piece come from the turbo to the other IC connection.

This doesn’t solve all the routing issues. There’s still about 8” that I haven’t figured out yet. That and general alignment. I still don’t remember why I ended up with some shiny pipes and some black pipes. I guess if I end up welding them that I will have to do some powder coating again. Well, May have to even if I get them to fit.

Mounted the catalytic converter, and of course it doesn’t mate up to the cat-back system. I knew that. I previously installed the 2 inches of exhaust pipe I took out behind the cat, putting it ahead of the rear muffler. Turns out, due to my Kaminari rear skin that I should have put 6” in there. I’ve got the pipe and will do that soon. Then I’ll add a hanger or two to match up to the front portion of the exhaust.

The heater hose and transmission rear seal arrived today. Still waiting for the bottom radiator hose.

That’s about it for Saturday.
 

· Registered
Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
Joined
·
678 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
Got an alert on my phone last night that there was activity at my garage. Here’s the picture that came thru:
262879


There’s not usually any issues in this neighborhood; but there was something going on Friday night. I tried to review the video footage unsuccessfully. Made me sleep a bit uneasy. No issues this morning.

AutoZone is trying hard to compete with Amazon. My $18 order came in overnight with a stated delivery charge of ten bucks, and a ten dollar credit to offset. Unfortunately, the hose was the question mark shaped heater hose and I already had one on the car . It was the one I took off years ago, but in good shape. I will keep it and use for the final installation. They don't list the other two, and checking the part numbers, only one of those appears available, the other is discontinued. I will still try the dealer. I've got one that looks close, but that area is so tight, I'd prefer not to be cutting one to fit.

The oil seal they sent for the R-154 tailshaft is not like the one I took out nor the one I replaced it with earlier this week. I will keep it, and also try the dealer. I've got to stop by and pick up my hood bumpers on Monday.

I have been having so much trouble figuring out hose and hard-pipe routing some of which I was confident that I understood when the engine was out. Now, it seems all different. Things under the upper intake don't appear at all the same as they did and there's one water line that looks more like a GE fitment than a GTE. It always scares me that I've put a water to oil or visa version... and that wouldn't be good, huh? lol

I hate that the car is outside, even under cover, it needs to be inside... so I've been gradually sorting out the garage to allow it to come back in... and I suspect I will put it up high on the stands, at least initially. I have a real nice clay mitt and a bottle of Chemical Guy's Clay Luber, so I went over the car today, and finished with Meguiar's ceramic coating... applied straight. Subsequent car washers you just spray on and rinse off. Paint is amazingly smooth today. Hurt to put the cover back on her :(

Still waiting for the bottom radiator hose to arrive, so I took inventory of my hose clamps. I have most of what I need to get the hoses I've identified back on...if I can only find the hoses.

That's it for today, Sunday. Going home to watch the F1 race. I hear it was raining in Hungary. Makes it fun :)
 

· Registered
Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
Joined
·
678 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
That's a lot of progress in a few weeks1 I have a suggestion, which you are free to ignore. Imagine your in an accident where the LH front fender gets a solid hit. That AFPR is going to go with the fender, and your engine will stay put. The result will be a disconnected hose and fuel pouring into your alternator and other places you don't want fuel. I suggest mounting the AFPR on the engine, like the OEMs always do.
That will take some thought, but definitely a good suggestion. Honestly, it's feeling more and more like I will never get done. I've seen them on the shock tower, and I've seen them on the firewall. Apparently it doesn't matter which end of the fuel rail it goes on... obviously as long as you plumb everything accordingly. Thanks for the tip.
 

· Registered
Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
Joined
·
678 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
With regards to the 2 inches of exhaust issue. I had the same problem long ago, until I realized that I had the cat hanger backwards and upsidedown. Then my 2 inch problem magically disappeared. Its confusing because the hanger has two rods extending out for the rubber donut, but only one is used. Worth a check before you get out the welding equipment. Also note that in this picture my cat is upside down. 🙃

View attachment 262883
I already removed two inches from the pipe after the cat and added it back in before the rear muffler.
262885


Not my best work, but I didn't burn it up :)
Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting Automotive exhaust Wood


My cat does not have any mounting hooks...
Automotive lighting Yellow Tap Plumbing Gas


The 2" that I added before the rear muffler wasn't enough because of the way the Kaminari bumper skin flares out. The OEM skin curves in. I should have put six inches in there, instead of two. I have bought a four foot section of stainless 3" tube and will cut the wrong piece out and put six inches back in there. As for the cat, perhaps I will do what @Piratetip says above that he had to do.

This is one of those jobs I have been waiting for the test install to do. Now that the car is high enough up in the air to get under easily, I will work it out. I did notice today that the cat doesn't fit next to the heat shield as I'm pretty sure the OEM cat did. I am debating getting the car back inside so I can quite worrying about it being so visible to the public. No telling what someone might try to steal with it up in the air and outside :) Cameras are great but it would still take me 15 minutes to get there. Not sure about the police... as to how long it would take them if I called 911 to report a theft in progress.
 

· Registered
Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
Joined
·
678 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
Here is what I ended up doing today on the exhaust. The cat has no mounting tabs, rods, wings... whatever they'd be called...

Tableware Drinkware Automotive lighting Cylinder Automotive tire


With the cat bolted to the downpipe this is how it fits:

Cylinder Nickel Material property Gas Auto part


This is how it matches the cat-back portion of the Blitz Nur...

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive lighting Revolver


I cut another section out of the front piece (behind the cat)... for a total of 3 inches removed...

Musical instrument Automotive exhaust Wind instrument Muffler Personal protective equipment


I then added a total of six inches ahead of the rear muffler... including a flexible section, just in case I need a little bend (which from a test fit, I believe I will need). I previously stated I put the two inches in here, actually, I had put 6 inches in here, and now cut three out and added the flexible piece. Some of the cuts are reinforced with a smaller diameter stainless tube inside. At some places in the Blitz Nur, from the factory, the tube in 3" OD and at others it is 3" ID. So reinforcing wasn't possible at one place, I think it was.

I will weld it tomorrow or the next day... after one more test fit to make sure I got it right.

That's all for today, Monday, August 2nd, 2021.

I also figured out how to get a conventional internet setup here, vs. the WiFi Hot Spot I currently have. It's a commercial building and they've always wanted commercial prices. I talked them into a residential plan for $119 a month... and jumped at it. They've still got to do the install. Fingers crossed it goes well.

Have a great day now.
 

· Registered
Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
Joined
·
678 Posts
Discussion Starter · #36 ·
You just solved a mystery of why the cat-back in mine was the wrong length. I bought it off an owner who blew up his 7M, so I knew it fit. I replaced the flange and a short section on it with a spare flange and attached section I had already and went to install it. I have a factory rear cat, so mine was too short! I did not have his cat to check, so it's been a bit of a mystery to me. Until now. That is why in my thread's photos of my pipe there are 2 welds about 2" apart. A little more than 2" apart if I remember correctly (probably to make up for sawcuts' widths). I'd much rather have two welds than an unsolved mystery. Although, those are fun too. I too, am glad that I check out other build threads.

Thank you, and sweet car.
As I understand it, there is a “California” cat and a “49 state” cat, and the difference is about 2 1/2 inches. Thanks for validating that it’s not just me :).
 
1 - 20 of 80 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top