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Looks like you’re making killer progress.

Glad I’m not the only one to hack their Nur Spec. Mine was a SUPER tight fit to get it bolted on to a test pipe. When I finally grew up and got a 3” cat there was no amount of shoving that would make it fit right. I paid a local welder to shorten it by about 2” almost a decade ago and it fits like a glove now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 · (Edited)
Looks like you’re making killer progress.

Glad I’m not the only one to hack their Nur Spec. Mine was a SUPER tight fit to get it bolted on to a test pipe. When I finally grew up and got a 3” cat there was no amount of shoving that would make it fit right. I paid a local welder to shorten it by about 2” almost a decade ago and it fits like a glove now.
I don’t have the rear hanger and with the way I’ve extended the rear muffler to stick out past my Kaminari rear skin, it would be in the wrong place anyway. The flexible piece I added before the muffler will let me line it up okay, so I have one more weld and I’m thinking “glove”, too.

So at least three of us here out of five or six had a similar issue. I knew it was going to be a problem from reading, but it’s taken me friggin years to get here :)

I’ve never seen the type of hook that @Piratetip added to his cat at Autozone, but maybe stop at a muffler shop and see if they’ll sell me one.The exhaust definitely needs more support. Then glove :)

The lower radiator hose arrived today, too. It makes a world of difference working on things with the engine in the car. Well, it slows me down on others. I still have to make two harnesses for the coils: one for me and one for a buddy. I also have to make the injector harness. Still don’t have the pins I need, but the sticky at the top of the forum should resolve that problem. Not sure it’s worth putting the heater hoses on for this test fit, but at least now I’ve sourced them.

it’s going to both hurt and be exciting to pull the drive train again. I don’t think I will push the yellow plugs through the hole in the firewall either until the next installation. I’d just have to pull them back out and they might get damaged.

That reminds me, too, that I still have to build my adapter from those yellow plugs to my Speeduino, too. I’m still so far from running, all this progress is good, but,….
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 · (Edited)
Spent time under the car today comparing what I've got with the five exhaust mounting points in the parts listing. I do not have much of the original pieces. They must have been attached to the exhaust that I finally gave away to keep from moving it daily. It's 14 feet long and was "stored" in the middle of my garage, so always in the way.

Heading to AutoZone to return the wrong transmission oil seal as the dealer one I got yesterday is like the one I took out. Will also pick up some hose clamps and look at universal exhaust hangers.

Adjusted the hood trying several different combinations of washers under the hinges, and finally found the best spot for the latch. Turns out that lower is better, but this leaves the leading edge of the hood too low. Everything else is decent as far a seam gaps, width, height. Well, except for the bulge down the passenger side seam. It's a carbon fiber hood, and it honestly used to fit perfectly, but it's developed a budge that I can't get away from. I plan on using hood pins to correct this.

My buddy was emphatic that there's only one place to put the pins, but I think I will go against convention and put them where they are needed. This requires mounting them directly between the shock tower and the fender. Here's a picture with the scratch plates laying on the hood.

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I don't hate that and it will solve my problem. When the hood is off again, I need to make my spacer washers permanent on the hood hinges so I won't have to go through that again.

I installed the lower radiator hose and bolted up the power steering pump line. The dealer still sells that one-piece double copper washer, but I'm saving putting it on for the final install.

I still have not re-clocked both halves of the turbo, and as it is today, the lower hard-pipe doesn't have a prayer of getting to the IC as required. Also, the two -AN fittings that I have on the DM relocation fitting don't want to clear anything. They are currently 90 degree angled pieces. The lines from there to the remote filter and thermostat sandwich plate are one of the main reasons for this test installation. I need to make the oil lines, and their fitment needs to be very exact.

Lots of thinking yet required here.

Feel like I did something else... may come back and edit when I remember.
 

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Sounds like your intercooler pipe routing is a bit like welding. Add a bit of heat here, something over there moves. Put the heat over there, and something else moves... I feel your pain! My engine bay is a good example of the proverbial ten pounds of crap in a five pound sack. :p

Also, that F1 race in Hungary, what a ride!

As for protecting your car, the question of police response makes me chuckle a bit. Just tell them you shot a guy who was trying to steal your car. They'll be there in NO time. :p

On the hood pin discussion, the only issue I could even remotely see surfacing is... what happens if air catches under the leading edge of the hood? Also, if you're trying to keep it subtle, check out Aerocatch pins. They're a lot sleeker than traditional hood pins.

If you can source some cheap long needle nose pliers like that, but flat, either heat them up and bend them or have them pressed to put the bend in. Might save you some money.
Shop has them so when I need them I just grab them, but if I were working out of my garage on a budget, I'd just modify a set instead of buying new for a tool I'd use a couple of times.
Signal, those angled pliers are my go-to set every since I bought them. Hardly ever use a pair of straight needle nose pliers anymore. Honestly one of my personal favorites!
 
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Discussion Starter · #46 · (Edited)
Sounds like your intercooler pipe routing is a bit like welding. Add a bit of heat here, something over there moves. Put the heat over there, and something else moves... I feel your pain! My engine bay is a good example of the proverbial ten pounds of crap in a five pound sack. :p

Also, that F1 race in Hungary, what a ride!

As for protecting your car, the question of police response makes me chuckle a bit. Just tell them you shot a guy who was trying to steal your car. They'll be there in NO time. :p

On the hood pin discussion, the only issue I could even remotely see surfacing is... what happens if air catches under the leading edge of the hood? Also, if you're trying to keep it subtle, check out Aerocatch pins. They're a lot sleeker than traditional hood pins.


Signal, those angled pliers are my go-to set every since I bought them. Hardly ever use a pair of straight needle nose pliers anymore. Honestly one of my personal favorites!
I am pretty well convinced that my pipes are just wrong. It was a mistake to source the turbo and the pipes separately. After all these years I do not remember why I have two different coatings either. Welding may be the solution, but my welds aren't pretty enough yet for that location.

As for the hood pins, I think these will do just fine. Unfortunately, I just went out and pushed down at that spot and the hood didn't go flush, so I still have some thinking to do. Same with my undercover. The OEM piece is secured with 13 bolts, I think is the number, but the front four have no place to secure with my Kaminari bumper skin. If those are unsecured it leaves me with a big flap when I move forward, so it's got to be cut off. The Kaminari skin has a nice lip, and I've made a cardboard template to cover from left to right and 22 inches back, so no problem cutting the OEM undercover. The hood latch and safety work well. I don't think there's any chance it will get wind.

I'm not installing the heater hoses for this test fit. Just making sure I source them, the hose clamps and the tool to put them on. I do tend to use worm gear clamps, and the hooked pliers look like for the OEM style. Oddly enough, AutoZone did not have the worm-gear ones in stock. I may just have to source the others.

Yes, that F1 race was a hoot! Loved it beginning to end. I'm a big Hamilton fan, and for obvious reasons a fan of George Russell. I do think that Bottas has been a good team mate though, and perhaps not getting what he deserves. Max did a tremendous job considering how badly his car was damaged. It is nice to see someone other than Mercedes winning, too. Still, I want Hamilton to be an 8 time world champion, just because that tops Michael Schumacher's 7 times. I've followed all the years, and I think Hamilton is a better sport. I want him to be acknowledged as the best.

So off-topic, at least it's my build thread. The new internet connection comes today. My mobile hot spot was to one day become part of my moving car, but it doesn't work worth a damn. Technology changes, maybe I will also get just-in-time mobile. Also looks like my Speeduino will be available in a couple of weeks. Probably sooner than my car.

I am currently working on documenting the fuel and spark harnesses. I've got most of the supplies, still need to get some pins. I'm building two sets, one for my Speeduino "Dropbear", and one for my friend's Ecumaster EMU Classic. He has the plug and play harness for his '71 7M-GTE, and I still have to build mine. We're both using R35 Hitachi coils and the setups are very similar. He's got the grey plug harness and I have the yellow plug harness, so slightly different, but the layout, grounds and power are the same. Just different pins to the ECU.

Back to work now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 · (Edited)
I purchased this safety loop several months ago and today was the day, with drive shaft and exhaust system in place, that I attempted to fit it. In it's present form there is no place it will fit.

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While under the car I found two things that make me think that I do not need it. There is an existing bar across the tunnel, and while not as strong as the one above, it looks to me like it would work... at least help.

In addition, there are the two holes in the following picture where a strap could be placed across and that would definitely secure the shaft in the event that a u-joint came apart.

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So that is what I'm going to do, fabricate a strap and put it across at that location. This must have been where the mount on a two-piece drive shaft fit up. I will take a 7" piece of steel strap and drill two holes at approximately 6 inches and bolt it in place. I guess that doesn't keep a shaft from coming through the tunnel, but it will keep the car from doing a pole vault. I'm only shooting for 500 HP, not 1600 :)

I welded the flexible section into the pipe in front of the rear muffler today. Here is a picture of how it comes out. I have positioned a universal hanger to hold it in this position, but it's not in there yet. Currently, I am using two bungee cords. I think I got the distance right relative to my Kaminari rear bumper skin.

I also have fabricated a wire mesh grill to cover all the slots in the skin. I made the mistake of using steel, vs. stainless steel, and it has rusted a bit just sitting in place. I will clean it up and paint it and see how it goes.

The standard foam that is behind an OEM bumper skin was visible across the top row of slots, so I had cut it off with a sharp tool. Now it is in there, but it moves around and I suspect it will rattle. I am half thinking about getting a squirt can of that expandable foam and shooting that in there... it would be nice if I could turn the car upside down to do it so it wouldn't run and make me sorry :)

Anyway, here is the exhaust tip. I'm not showing the welds as they are not pretty. I did take a grinder to them to clean them up a little, but honestly, a ground TIG weld is a give-away of a mess. Damn it! It's under the car.

Saturday update: the bungee cords are gone here. I drilled holes in the bumper, tapped them and bolted a universal exhaust hanger strap in place. It' done. Still have to fabricate something at the cat... so there's still a bungee cord there. It seems pretty solid throughout.

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The new internet service could not be installed as they needed the management to arrange access to a couple of offices above to drop the wire. At least they think they can do it. I am so tired of WiFi off of cell phone towers. It is unbelievably slow.

That's it for Friday. Apparently it rained here all day at home. I noticed it was gloomy, but it didn't rain on me. My garage is about 8 miles from home... not a drop.

Have a great weekend!
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
That's a lot of progress in a few weeks1 I have a suggestion, which you are free to ignore. Imagine your in an accident where the LH front fender gets a solid hit. That AFPR is going to go with the fender, and your engine will stay put. The result will be a disconnected hose and fuel pouring into your alternator and other places you don't want fuel. I suggest mounting the AFPR on the engine, like the OEMs always do.
I need to see how someone had done this as I have tried to find a location and failed. While the engine was out there appeared to be places, but once in the car I’m glad I didn’t go that way. Do you have a picture of an AFPR installed on a 7M engine?
 

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I need to see how someone had done this as I have tried to find a location and failed. While the engine was out there appeared to be places, but once in the car I’m glad I didn’t go that way. Do you have a picture of an AFPR installed on a 7M engine?
I found this resource very helpful, looks like its mounted to the strut tower with a simple bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 · (Edited)
I found this resource very helpful, looks like its mounted to the strut tower with a simple bracket.
Most of the installations I have seen do that, but if you will re-read 3pi’s post, that is dangerous. It needs to be mounted to the engine so that in a wreck it doesn’t get pushed into the alternator.
I have it currently on the bracket where the igniter was deleted, which gives a better relationship to the alternator since the line from the fuel rail to the device is straight. If you mount it on the tower, that line is curved and comes very close to the alternator terminal... potentially touching and causing a fire. Ether way, the industry standard is apparently to mount it to the engine as the proposed setup is potentially dangerous. Another option is to mount it on the firewall where the alarm system horn is located, but that takes a bigger re-think than I want to do... and I'm not sure of the safety implications there either.

This is how I have it today.

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Thank you for your input though. I do appreciate you.

David
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
yeah, an offset crash can completely remove the fender and everything attached to it. Whereas the engine tends to stay together in one piece.
View attachment 263132
I do appreciate the facts and would like to mount it safely. Do you have a picture of one mounted to the engine on a 7M?
 

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I've been a fan of F1 for over a decade now, and Hamilton truly is a world champ, both on and off the track. I still think this might be Max's year though, if he can keep his cool...

That, and it always impresses me how well some of these younger guys are going. I have no doubt Russell, Ocon, Sainz, Leclerc will be the front runners soon enough.

As for the driveshaft loop, I used that center carrier mount on the body to attach a bracket of some fashion. I'm not worried about the shaft coming through the floor (Mk3 floorpan is uh... it's pretty sturdy) but to prevent a possible pole vault situation like you say. My shaft is carbon in my case, so it's more to keep it from being an expensive street sweeper. :p
 
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Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
What remains to be done on my Supra -- 8-19-2021

The following items need to be addressed in and under the hood, and outside the cabin:
  • Straighten out mess at fuse box
    • Couple of relays there which might not be used
    • Igniter gone – make sure wires to it are gone
    • Resistor pack gone – make sure wires to it are gone
    • Identify proper ground location
  • Wire electric fan controller
    • Probably done by ECU (not sure if firmware exists to support)
  • Wire Aeromotive AFPR device
  • Create bracket for Hall Effect Sensor on 36-1 trigger wheel
    • Redundant (backup solution)
    • Expected primary trigger wheel is 12-tooth on crank behind lower timing belt pulley
  • Finish spark plug wiring harness
    • Quick disconnect (required for software updates)
  • Finish injector wiring harness
    • Wire in new resistor pack for low-impedance injectors
    • Quick disconnect (required for software updates)
  • Replace plug on CPS (requires de-pinning and repining connectors)
    • Re-check epoxy for cracks – if cracked, rebuild
    • Backup plan: Two choices here 1) Hall Effect setup I purchased, 2) Piratetip’s solution
  • Wire DriftMotion oil temperature switch
  • Route LSU-49 wideband O2 sensor to center console
  • Wire wideband to ECU location
  • Correct shield on two Hall Effect Sensors (currently not shielded)
  • Install Drop Bear Speeduino ECU
  • Clock (rotate) turbo housing to clear both hardpipes (intake and lower to IC)
    • Bolts on both sides of turbo currently loosened
    • Be sure to tighten before operation
  • Route hardpipes which currently do not fit
  • Fabricate bracket and install wastegate actuator
  • Must re-install passenger side tie-down bracket
    • Make sure clearances allow towbar to be connected to tie down brackets
  • Create and Route hoses from relocated oil filter thermostat sandwich plate to oil cooler
    • Requires drilled holes and grommet
  • Create hoses from top of relocated oil filter to relocation plate on exhaust side of engine
    • 90 degree -AN10 fittings will not clear everything in that area
    • Try 45 degree – and look for other solution
  • Install catch cans (dual) and figure out new lines to intake, etc.
  • Eliminate MAF since we’re using MAP (or just leave it alone)
  • Finish battery cables
    • Done in cabin to firewall connectors
    • Run from firewall to inside of fender – coming up in engine bay
    • One existing 7/8” hole present – create second and add two grommets
  • Install cold start injector brass washers
  • Continue to search for pipe requested in WTB section of SupraForums
  • Obtain and install whatever seals necessary on A/C compressor hose connections
  • Make fuel line connections below intake
    • Feed
    • Return
  • Replace slave cylinder hose
    • Bracket does not seem to mount correctly – investigate missing brace
  • Install drive shaft “loop” (not a loop, just a metal bracket where center drive shaft bearing was
  • Fix stripped thread on one of four bolts on rear drivetrain mount (at transmission tail shaft)
  • Secure front brake flexible lines (currently held with plastic ties)
  • Install catalytic converter bracket (Walker Exhaust 35001 – from O’Reilly’s)
  • Have radiator shop modify radiator tabs on bottom of radiator
  • Install heat protection on turbo water cooling line nearest exhaust manifold.
  • Lengthen hood pins with ½”-20 threaded stock
    • Install hood pins (not in traditional area – see photo library)
  • Finish shortening TEMS wires (requires re-pinning 4 prong Toyota connector
  • Reinstall front bumper (check clearances of oil cooler, intercooler, headlights and towbar hookup)
  • Install turn signals and front grill, plus anything else taken off
  • Install NASCAR style ducting directed to oil cooler
  • Install driving lamps
  • Install windshield washer nozzles and washer hose
  • Install and secure rear grill behind Kaminari bumper skin
    • Fill rear bumper with closed-cell foam
The following items need to be addressed inside the cabin:
  • Heater box – check that hookup beneath steering column is connected
  • Stereo head unit, amplifier and base speaker in tire well – wire it
  • Secure base speaker box to car and make sure bottom is sealed
  • Make brackets for battery box behind passenger seat position
  • Permanently mount on-board Battery Tender
  • Mount battery cut-off switch (get 4 pole, trash 2 pole in stock)
  • Mount inline fuse box next to cut-off switch
  • Mount articulated arm to house two Raspberry Pi computers with 7” touch screens
  • Install 12v to 5v buck converters for Raspi
  • Install Arduino in console for keyless push to start button
    • Install the button 😊
  • Secure wood panel in place of rear seats and cover with carpet
  • Identify better position for fire extinguisher (currently on brace bar)
  • Weld brace bar to car (safety hazard if only bolted to harness positions)
  • Finish installing hush mat
  • Install remaining plastic trim in back of car
  • Dash is installed and wiring harness is attached, but some weatherstrip needs fixing
  • Install seats
  • Install 6-point harnesses
  • Remove drivetrain to complete items on list that cannot be done in car.
    • Complete as required
  • Consider A/C condenser at this time while engine and radiator are out.
  • Reinstall drivetrain.
    • And all that shit you took off to remove it
  • Fill fluids (engine and transmission oil, cooling system.
    • Differential is clean and full.
  • Check & refill brake and clutch fluids, as required.
  • Install underbody tray
  • Muffler shop to apply final fix to angle of rear muffler.
  • Toyota Dealer for alignment.
  • Charge A/C with R-134 using new receiver-drier.
Drive it like you stole it!
 

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quite a hefty list man! you have your work cut out for you especially the wiring portions. Those are straigh forward but just takes time.
 
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Wow, your list makes mine seem like I've got a cake walk! I've been mildly embarrassed it has taken me so long to finish my Supra and fire it up and the list as I screwed and bolted things together and discovered this part needs to be scraped and repainted, or that one needs a seal has stayed at the same length for a month. But your ambitions here are strong and we need to support you in whatever you need. So keep your thread active on the theory that your passion will be fed by it. Keep it going, maintain momentum, and as you cross off items on a paper list stuck to the windshield you'll be motivated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Wow, your list makes mine seem like I've got a cake walk! I've been mildly embarrassed it has taken me so long to finish my Supra and fire it up and the list as I screwed and bolted things together and discovered this part needs to be scraped and repainted, or that one needs a seal has stayed at the same length for a month. But your ambitions here are strong and we need to support you in whatever you need. So keep your thread active on the theory that your passion will be fed by it. Keep it going, maintain momentum, and as you cross off items on a paper list stuck to the windshield you'll be motivated.
My list seems to grow not shrink. Clearly I’ve let things go astray. I forget now whether there is a strike-thru font on this forum. Pasting from Word to here removes indented bullets. From here to Word maintains them. Guess my updated list will stay in Word. Or maybe I should just delete the lines as they are done. I’ll figure it out. Can’t imagine not having a list :)
 

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Make it paper!! And put it on the car. Mine is on an old college notebook, as I often go to bed with the service manual and the list and kind of read ahead for a few minutes and stay oriented that way. Spending a few minutes staying mentally coordinated is nice because then when I have an hour to go to the garage I'm immediately productive - grabbing a wrench and putting on the water pump. Since I'm having a crisis of instructions (the FSM is not properly in sequence for a full teardown), that is helping me not install something I'll have to remove later. Currently, it's ticking me off that I can't put my rear main in because it would interfere with my engine stand. So I'll have to do that, and then install the oil pan while it's hanging in the hoist.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 · (Edited)
Make it paper!! And put it on the car. Mine is on an old college notebook, as I often go to bed with the service manual and the list and kind of read ahead for a few minutes and stay oriented that way. Spending a few minutes staying mentally coordinated is nice because then when I have an hour to go to the garage I'm immediately productive - grabbing a wrench and putting on the water pump. Since I'm having a crisis of instructions (the FSM is not properly in sequence for a full teardown), that is helping me not install something I'll have to remove later. Currently, it's ticking me off that I can't put my rear main in because it would interfere with my engine stand. So I'll have to do that, and then install the oil pan while it's hanging in the hoist.
That rear seal was a motivator for building custom stands. First one piece then two separate. There will be a third iteration before the drivetrain comes out again as the castors were too close together when engine and tranny were coupled together.
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