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@debrucer1

Where did you get those motor/tranny stands? built yourself?
 
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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
@debrucer1

Where did you get those motor/tranny stands? built yourself?
Yep. Built them myself. They have evolved a bit. The wooden squares to accept the motor mounts became steel. It was fun bending 1/4” steel… first real use of my finger press. Also the second use of my plasma cutter to make the hole for the motor mount bolt to fit through. Made the mistake of not shaping the edges of the bent plates… paid for it in blood when draining the oil… twice. That will be part of the fix for the next iteration:) they are small enough that they hang on the wall when not in use. I gave away my original swiveling engine stand ‘cuz it was in the way when not used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 · (Edited)
Worked on my three page list from the top. Unbolted the OEM fuse box and the bracket where it bolts up. Inspected the contents and removed the bottom cover. There is space inside for one fuse and possibly a relay. I measured the bracket where the ignitor pack was located and the surrounding space. It looks like I can make a 4.5" x 6.5" aluminum plate to mount there also giving me a location to mount a relay or two, as I document the requirements. The Aeromotive AFPR is mounted there now, and it fits right on the edge. It will get mounted on the new plate.

There are two relays on the bottom of the bracket, one connects the power lead (yellow round plug) from the engine harness to a white plug on the relay. The colors change from the yellow plug to the white plug. It is the power, presumably from the ignition switch. The other relay of this pair connects to a white plug on the body harness. I do not know what this relay does yet. I'm working on it.

The resistor pack (not currently on the car) is on a bracket that also holds the "boost solenoid" (which seems to be called a "sensor" in the TSRM. Still working on that functionality, too). There is a logistic problem with these two items. They came off this car, the body harness under the hood has not been changed. The white plug for the boost solenoid is right near the strut tower where I expected to find it. The only other round plug that fits the resistor pack is a black plug coming off the wheel well where it is secured... right about where the bottom of the battery would be if it hadn't been relocated... at least a foot away from where the boost solenoid is located. They are on the same bracket, and they definitely came off this car. No way I can see for them to go back. Must be one of those missing extension harnesses like was on the O2 sensor :)

No questions here... just rambling on what I did today.

Located grommets for the battery cables to pass through the inner wheel wheel. They fit perfectly. Now just have to drill another 7/8" hole. Cleaned up the bracket and painted it black. Wire brushed the two relays and tried to paint them with a "cast iron" spray. They looked like shit. Used Acetone to remove the paint. They are more brass or bronze color, and almost look okay after wire brushing. I will check AutoZone for other colors.

Bicycle part Tool Auto part Nickel Machine They don't look too bad. The bracket for the former igniter needs the same treatment. It will get it.

There are still a few wires that I haven't found anywhere to hook them up. I will be hitting the TSRM and TEWD later today.

Took a bunch more pictures of the rat's next around the fuse box. Nothing worth showing, just a good place for me to reference as I am reading.

Played with my wire crimping tools and changed the heads on one... waiting for 1.5mm blade pins that I believe will work with my TEMS connectors. Those are very much like, hopefully identical, to the ones that I have for my CPS replacement connector. Definitely not easy ordering the right connectors. Still after a couple of hours a day for at least five days, have only gotten ONE f**king pin de-pinned. Put it back in, and can't get it out again.

I have four or five different styles of pins that I have to learn to de-pin. Those that I just mentioned, plus Hitachi coil hats, RC Engineering injector hats, the Weather-Pack pins, at least one other.

Gradually getting things stripped away from the cam covers to build two sets of plug and injector harnesses. One for me. One for a friend. He's got a 7M/GTE and is using an ECUMaster's EMU Classic and I am using a Speeduino Drop Bear (A Teensy 3.5 powered 8 x 8 device). For me, I understand the hookup to the ECU, but for him, I'm afraid the software is too complex, well, at least too unknown for me to set it up. I can deal with mine. His tuner will have to install his harness since he's switching over from wasted spark and multiplexed fuel to full sequential. If I install it, he can't drive to the tuner.

So I am getting his harness ready and learning more doing his than doing mine. Trying to figure out the required relay values and immediately Google results bring about formulas that users then say "if you can't do the formulas, you shouldn't be doing the job" (I haven't asked. I'm just anticipating the responses if I do).. It seems to be a detail that people leave out as to what values they used. One valuable YouTube video series shows the relay board being made, but if you read the comments he gets blasted for using cheap relays. He got lots of suggestions, and mostly re-selected his relays based on brand name, not on component values... much less, values based on specific, installation related specs. It looks to me like a lot of people can't do the calculation. I don't feel too badly.

I have a tracking number for my ECU coming from Australia. This product is part of an open source project, but the source really is not yet "open". It has been in development for over a year and is currently only being sold as a built unit. It's still far from plug and play... definitely a DIY solution. I haven't made any further progress on the interface board that I'm making in KiCAD and having built in China. It fits between the OEM engine harness with modifications for 6 spark and 6 fuel connections and the new ECU.

While making these two harnesses I am also adding the shielding to my Hall Effect sensors. Will be hitting the local electronics store in the morning. The place I go is local and better stocked than a Radio Shack used to be... back in the day. I don't learn as much there as I used to at RS. The people are less accessible due to COVID. They do have rules about cutting your own wire, shielding, heat shrink and all that stuff. So if you want to talk to someone, buy something :)

I am starting to see why my friend got two $1500 quotes on the harness he needs. The parts are mounting up. The labor would be terrible at my speed, too.

That's it for Sunday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 · (Edited)
The two relays in the previous post are The A/C Condenser Fan and the A/C Magnet Clutch Relays. Neither one is required on my car as I am not using either the fan or the clutch.

263641


The plug on the engine wiring harness to the No. 1 relay carries the power to the fuse box. Without the relay I will have to figure out how to pass the power. I am installing dual electric fans. Perhaps I can use the relay for the fans? I don't know. I do believe that I am adding a relay for the coils but I haven't determined the spec for it. At least I may be able to use this location to mount that relay. TBD.

Edit: The possibility exists that the current flow is in the other direction, but that goes against what I think I know about the red and red/black wire going to the relay. Some effort will be required here.
 

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Somewhere out there, is a VERY jealous whiteboard. :p

Also, the commands for striking through a line are not what I thought they were. Must be different forum software than I am used to. However, highlight a word or line, then look at the bottom of the box you are typing your post in. There are a bunch of icons on there, you're looking for the fifth from the left, looks like an S and that should do it. Can also hold CTRL+S as well.

Oh, and as for harness pricing? Yeah... it's all in the labor. Not difficult work, just VERY time consuming. I briefly thought about offering harness stripping services to the people building Exocets, but I really doubt I'd have many takers and it is a LOT of time, the business case for it didn't make much sense.
 
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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
I don’t see the strike-thru you’re talking about, but will look more carefully when I’m on a laptop. Thanks for pointing that out. I can paste from here to Word and keep the indentation, but the other way around moves all the bullets to the left. The same list is also in a post on my web page and I forget how it acts there. @IdahoDoug thinks the list needs to be paper and updated and left on the windshield.

That’s not a bad idea. Guess I’ll have to put a new toner in the old printer.

I took the car off the jack stands today and will make sure I’ve got a 6’ x 16’ space in the garage. It’s time for my child to go back inside. Plenty to do on the top side and inside.

This was a trial fit, but I can see a test start in the nearer than ever future.

I got some help with my de-pinning techniques today. Was successful with a number of different types. I don’t have the exact tool I should have, but a jeweler screw driver works pretty well. Tomorrow I’ll try a few connector that I haven’t damaged so badly.
 

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Doug has a good point with the paper approach. It's quite satisfying to cross something off the list! As for the strike through, it might be a desktop / laptop site design. No idea what the mobile site looks like.

As for de-pinning things, I used a could different picks, but a jewelers screwdriver would work for many of them. I even had to go through the back (wire) side on a couple plugs. Most of them came out working through the pin side of the plug. Like I said, each one is a different puzzle. Good luck!
 
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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
@debrucer1 where did you get that chrome looking panel? The one between the radiator and front bumper.
It’s been so long since purchasing that I forget. Some place like Supra Store. Sorry but not sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 · (Edited)
My son and a friend helped me move my car back inside. I spent the day yesterday getting the space ready. It’s in and I can get everything else inside and still walk around the car. Here are shots walking through.

@Piratetip You got here before I got the gallery displaying :) Was trying from my phone... not a good idea apparently.


This is progress. Now, on with my list. I’ve got plenty to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 · (Edited)
I’m using Hitachi coils made for a Nissan R35. They have short stalks that let them clear the intake and accelerator linkage, and don’t require a FFIM.

The top of my engine is cleared to get to the coils to make a bracket for them. I already have a stainless steel valley cover that replaces the OEM gasket, but I want to add something else that’s cleaner and allows my coils to seal properly. Here are pictures of the coils sitting on that bracket on the bench.

Yellow Rectangle Wood Material property Font Barware Shelving Gas Computer desk Technology Amber Wood Rectangle Gas Triangle Yellow Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Automotive design

Here are two of the coils with the shorter stalk installed. The springs will need to be shortened also and that has not been done yet. I am looking for alternatives that might fit inside better.

For now, this is what I've got. It is pretty easy to see where they will seal. Without this new plate, they would be secured with a spacer and a bolt and the thinner part of the coil would not seal on the existing stainless steel valley cover.

Automotive tire Household hardware Rim Material property Gas

I have a 12” x 48” sheet of .090” 3003 aluminum and will be using about 3" x 24" of it for my car, and another piece for my friend's car. If it turns out to be easier than expected, I may make a few as this should be a popular conversion.

I have attached a few pictures to this post and comments. Basically, they all show the relationship of that sealing lip on the coil to the height of the top portion of the cam covers.

This next shot shows the sealing surface of the rubber boot on the coil being a little bit above the top of the cam cover attaching bolt. Once tightened, the thickness of the metal should push the coil down... holding it (them) in place.

Stairs Rim Automotive tire Tints and shades Sky

This next picture shows pretty much the same situation. The coils appears a bit high, but I believe they were not pushed on firmly... I mean, hell, they were just pushed on with nothing holding them.

Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting Automotive design Motor vehicle

The next two pictures also show the coils a bit high. Again, my argument is that the coils are not yet attached to the plate. Each coil will be attached to the plate with one bolt

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Rim Bumper

This final shot shows more precisely that the seal will meet the plate. I must have just lucked out on the photo.

Automotive tire Gas Tints and shades Nickel Automotive wheel system

EDIT: The photo index is screwed up. The first and last pictures of the ten pictures in this post have a screwed up index. I'll keep my eye on it.

Doing this with the second plate allows all the water passage plugs to be hidden. Keeping that stainless steel plate gives them (those plugs) the sealing surface they need and provides a bit of protection from things falling into the valley. There will be fewer holes and no unsightly welds of spacers.

Now, if my electric shears will only cut .090" aluminum, I will be cooking :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
My Speeduino Dropbear ECU arrived today from Australia. It was purchased assembled, built on August 13th, Shipped on August 23rd and received today, September 3rd. Not bad. It is one of the first 50 units. It came preloaded with the latest firmware and hooked up to Tuner Studio immediately. Wish I could say "can't wait", but, alias, I must. So much to be done before a test run. Working on mounting my coils tomorrow.
 

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Looks like it should be very OEM+ look Dave, keep up the good work. There's probably a small market for such a coil swap. Personally I don't think I'd ever make more than maybe 5 to a batch unless they start selling really well all of a sudden.

Fantastic news on the ECU! Arguably the cutest sounding ECU name I've ever heard. Oh so cute, the little koalaaaaaa why'sitbitingmyface???
 
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Interestingly dropbear has for many years been the name of a lightweight SSH server for linux.

So from your comments it seems you are not going to have AC? I can't imagine that myself, but its your car not mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 · (Edited)
Interestingly dropbear has for many years been the name of a lightweight SSH server for linux.

So from your comments it seems you are not going to have AC? I can't imagine that myself, but its your car not mine.
I’ve seen several references to the name, but being in the works for so long and coming from Australia, it seems the mythical beast in Australian folk lore was on someone’s mind.

It’s here now, before I’m ready for it.

As for AC, you’re probably onto something. It’s still on the car, but the converted and sealed system leaked during the past years. Between that, and the crap electric fans, and weatherstripping behind the dash, it will take effort to make it work again. If there’s circuitry that needs adding there’s a prototype capability. If there’s code required I can write that, too. Nobody said a DIY route was or would be easy and I am at best a hobbyist. Not a doctor.

To say the least it’ll need a receiver-drier and probably a new condenser. If there is missing support due to using a Speeduino, so be it. I never once considered the traditional route with regard to the ECU.

AC is Not my top priority now. As for how that relates to Dropbear, I don’t know. I installed AC in my 69 ‘Cuda without an ECU and I expect it can be done here.

There’s no built in support for the knock sensors either, although there is a supporting project. I’m expecting flex fuel to be my solution there, just as I’m expecting to have air.

As much as I want to drive this thing, finishing is not necessarily the goal. It’s about the journey. At least I keep telling myself that :)
 

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The AC is independent of the ECU. AC is an input to the ECU for bumping up the idle that's all. It will run just fine without it. But you said you didn't need the magnetic clutch relay, which is why I asked if you were ditching the AC.

Here is the factory wiring for the boost pressure sensor and injector resistor pack. Also shown is TEMS. The factory sensor is 2.5bar for the boost gauge so it may be ok for your needs.

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