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Discussion Starter · #81 · (Edited)
Let me absorb that and read a little. Presumed because I was not using the magnetic clutch, I wouldn’t need the relay.

Thanks for pointing it out and clarifying. I’ll have to look it over as I think there were two relays I marked to remove.
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
The AC is independent of the ECU. AC is an input to the ECU for bumping up the idle that's all. It will run just fine without it. But you said you didn't need the magnetic clutch relay, which is why I asked if you were ditching the AC.

Here is the factory wiring for the boost pressure sensor and injector resistor pack. Also shown is TEMS. The factory sensor is 2.5bar for the boost gauge so it may be ok for your needs.
TMDR? Question at end of this post :)

Here is the screen clip from the post discussing the relays:
264103


The A/C Condenser fan is not being used because of the intercooler installed, there is no room, so I'm not using Relay No. 1. The duel electric fans with their own shroud eliminate the OEM fan, the one with the Magnetic Clutch, so that relay is gone, too.

Neither of these fans is being used. In fact, just pitched them in the dumpster two days ago after offering them for free on the local FB group thread twice. I'd better not need them :( Seriously, there's no room.

Kitchen utensil Headgear Petal Audio equipment Circle

Not addressed in the original post are the two relays on the passenger side which are present on my car, but marked as being for the "A/T in the 7M/GTE". They are both present on my car, and I confirmed on the data plate that my car was an OEM R154 (i.e., car is not a conversion to stick). No idea why these are present, but they should not be necessary based on definitions of "condenser fan relay #2 and #3".

That's four relays down, not needed, not used, should not be necessary. I still expect to have A/C. I guess that's why I presumed you were saying the Speeduino was the cause for not having A/C. I'm used to a critical assessment of the choice to use a Speeduino.

The injector resistor pack is eliminated, actually replaced, with six-inline resistors for my low-impedance injectors run sequentially. (Not pictured, not mentioned, the igniter is gone, too, with the addition of 6 smart coil-on-plugs).

Here are the resistors mounted to a plate. Haven't figured out where to put them, somewhere near the six-wire quick disconnect plug, as out of site as possible.

Rectangle Font Circuit component Wood Ruler

Headlight Cleaner Relay and Fuel Pump Control Relay, as well as the not pictured turbo boost pressure relay are present, and presumably still required. The turbo boost pressure relay was mounted on the resistor pack's bracket as per the picture you provided, and the one I have came off my car. Funny though, my wiring harness, the one on the inner fender, not the engine harness from Tweak'd, has connectors coming out at two different places and they both cannot be reached at the same time. Puzzling, but glad the resistor pack is gone :)

I need to pick a relay for the coils and do not believe one is required for the injectors. I am still hunting for a data sheet on my coils to determine the proper values based on load. I'm not asking for that value, I want to figure that one out myself.

My question is: What is it related to removing these A/C relays that will leave me without A/C?
 

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Wait! The magnet clutch relay is for the AC magnet clutch built in to the AC compressor. It turns the compressor on and off. Not sure why you keep wanting to throw it out unless you have decided to pitch the AC compressor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
Wait! The magnet clutch relay is for the AC magnet clutch built in to the AC compressor. It turns the compressor on and off. Not sure why you keep wanting to throw it out unless you have decided to pitch the AC compressor.
That explains it. Thank you. Relay kept.
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 · (Edited)
Earl's brake lines for the front of my car with stock suspension, brackets, hoses, etc., were incorrectly built and could not be installed "properly". There was no way the hose could fit in the bracket in the first picture below:
Gas Auto part Metal Font Electric blue
It looks like it will work, but I remember it wouldn't work which is why I had used a tie-wrap to secure the hose to the bracket...knowing the day would come that it would have to be fixed.

Today was almost that day. Here's a shot of how I fixed it... well, almost I need a c-clip to hold it in place, but, well, take a look here:
Composite material Tool Metal Household hardware Fashion accessory
Removed enough of the bracket for it to fit over the hose. The adaptor on the hose that secures to this bracket requires a c-clip to hold the hose in place. There are two other fittings on the hose that are secured this way, too. Of course, there are no c-clips in a baggie hanging on the hose... so it's a trip to the hardware store and/or AutoZone.

I also re-attached the ABS sensor cables and pushed the grommet back in the hole on the inner fenders. The connectors under the hood had been a puzzle and I could find nothing for them to be used for... until someone here helped me with a picture. I jacked up the car and removed the front bumper and wheels, and low and behold, the wires were tie-wrapped to the suspension.
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Automotive design Fender Bumper
Each of the wires has two brackets, one that attaches to the upper a-arm, the other one has no obvious place to bolt to, but it must, it hasn't changed under there is the 16 years it's been like that... waiting for me to figure it out.
Tire Wheel Crankset Vehicle Automotive tire
The wires under the hood are all defined now, they await me to cut them off or dress them. The hole size for the sensor wires was perfect for one of my battery cables and I purchased grommets to finish the job. I knew I was going to have to drill one hole next to this one, but I'd totally forgotten about the ABS sensors.

So two holes will be drilled on the driver's side. The cables coming through the firewall are done a bit more substantially. Here's a picture of how that's done:
Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Steering wheel
My battery, cut-off switch and an inline fuse block are mounted in the right rear passenger side with the seat removed. Both positive and negative cables run under the driver's door sill plate to the matching connector on the firewall.

I may change my mind and use this style connectors where the two cable pass through the inner fender, but the plan is at the moment to use rubber grommets.

The garage is so tight that the four or five things that I have to remove to get to the car will only fit with the front bumper on the car, but with the car jacked up as it is today, that bumper is off and sort of under the car.

I hate putting her on jack stands again. I'm supposed to be working on the top side :)

But this is progress. Every little bit checked off is progress. Tomorrow to the hardware store.

Good night.
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
Worked on wiring inspired by @IdahoDoug doing the same. Mine were all identified and mostly tagged, waiting for proper routing and final dressing. I broke one of the wires on the alternator plug, so it will be impossible to get out. Will be looking for a new or replacement plug. Things are looking pretty trim down there, but there are two relays that still need to be bolted down. I unhooked the two ground wires and sanded the mounting surface, just in case, and reattached with a bit of torque.

Spent more time today on designing the interface board from the engine harness to the ECU. Going to add a few mounting locations for sensors, and the coaxial grounds on the interface so they won't have to be added directly to the ECU-side connector/pins.

I am not using the CAN bus but it is supported. There's also a SD card on the Teensy 3.5 MPU, but the firmware does not yet support it. The device has a micro-USB port, so perhaps the extra hassle of adding Bluetooth will be skipped. It's pretty easy to update the firmware on the Speeduino, but, Bluetooth to a logging device or optional screens might be easier with it. I'll keep deciding on that, but the interface board I'm making might be a mounting point for the antenna.
 

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Wow glad to hear todays forum bandwidth chowing questions on the wiring got you motivated. I suck at electrical so that was a bit stressful for me. Looks like it is your strong suit.
So what happened with your alt connector? It broke in the connecter or before it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Wow glad to hear todays forum bandwidth chowing questions on the wiring got you motivated. I suck at electrical so that was a bit stressful for me. Looks like it is your strong suit.
So what happened with your alt connector? It broke in the connecter or before it?
It broke flush with the seal at the back of the plug. Even if I manage to figure out the depinning setup, there’s no wire to pull on.

I’m hoping to find a new plug. That’ll be the best solution. You know it’s up against that heafty ventilation hose, it’s hard to even look at.

Definitely want to preserve those aging wires, perhaps rewrite about 18” back if I get a new plug. Maybe a good choice to try twisting on, with new wire. Yeah. Gotta find a plug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
Theres a release at bottom for alt plug.
Yes. There's that release to get the plug out of the socket but I was referring to the release to get the female pin out of the connector itself. There's usually a clip-ish piece that gets depressed or lifted to allow the pin to be removed. I was fooling with that when I broke the wire off :(

I did take @Asterix's suggestion and purchased from DM. It's processing. It's been a real chore learning to depin these things, and identifying the correct replacement pins.

Think I'm definitely going to twist these wires... as an experiment. They need to be pretty and durable, they're 33 years old today and brittle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 · (Edited)
Battery(+) > fuse box, starter and alternator
battery(+) to fuse box - white 8 AWG wire sticks out about 4" today, has no terminal - this is 12-volts in from battery
battery(+) to starter - custom cable (not yet made)
battery(+) to alternator - Connector coming from DriftMotion, plus strap with ring present on car now

Battery(-) > chassis and block

The battery(-) cable runs to the chassis with the 10mm bolt next to original battery location
and also connects to the engine block with a 14mm bolt.

These are the only two grounds coming off of the negative battery terminal. There are four or five additional ground straps located throughout the car. Notably, throttle linkage to firewall near charcoal canister, engine to transmission near slave cylinder, transmission tail-shaft at rear mount, exhaust hanger in front of the differential; That's four. I'm pretty sure there are five. The four in this picture...
Font Jewellery Scaled reptile Earrings Electric blue


and this one that was part of the OEM exhaust system...
Sleeve Wood Clothes hanger Art T-shirt


It all gets a bit peculiar because my battery has been relocated and I don't have OEM exhaust.
 

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God love Toyota with their grounds on this car (compare to similar era GM's with known issues related to poor grounds, as an example), but it is serious overkill, especially a ground back by the transmission!
Not saying you don't need all of them.... but you probably don't need all of them with a good block, head, and body ground, and good clean battery + and - cables.
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 · (Edited)
Hopefully the individual gallery comments let this post make sense. I f***ed up the Alternator's fusible link (FL).








 

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Discussion Starter · #95 · (Edited)
Got an early start and hit the local electronic store and guessed wrong on the wire size I needed to extend the wire from the battery to the fuse box. Bought 4 AWG needed 8. Was also short the first time.

Line Gas Electrical wiring Cable Machine

Capped 16 wires previously cut and left undressed. They won’t be used at the ECU adaptor, so zero worries.

Automotive tire Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design

Here are the external fuses. The 12-volt in at the bottom of a 300 AMP fuse. That’s a dummy wire. In reality it is 1/0 (one ought) cable. That’s getting built soon

Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design

The wire coming out the other side of the 300 AMP fuse goes to that stubby wire on the fuse box. In the short piece of covered harness, it branches through the fuse box to about six locations.

The other fuse is 100 AMPs and the wires that originally went to a fusible link for the alternator.

Hood Motor vehicle Car Vehicle Electrical wiring


what it looks like with things in place.

There are still three relays on this side that are hanging by their wires. It’s got to be fixed of course, but what you don’t see is that the oil filter relocation spot is below the battery mounting location. The hoses come up throw this area (not made yet) and also the hoses to the oil cooler get routed to the intake area.

There is one relay on each side that are in the way because of the hood pins needing to be immediately next to the front struts. This is non-standard but necessary because carbon fiber hood is being difficult.
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 · (Edited)
Working on the wiring still, but last two trips have been less wiring and more cutting and drilling. I have mentioned several times time my relocated oil filter is under the driver's side inner fender liner. With the battery relocated, I have cut a 3 inch circle in the sheet metal that used to be the bottom of the battery location. The oil filter is below that, and the two hoses that must go over to the exhaust side of the engine come into the engine bay through that hole. Here's a shot from the top:

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive design

No hoses installed in this picture but all the materials are waiting to be cut and -AN fittings installed. There are also two hoses that come off the thermostat sandwich plate that go to the oil cooler which is mounted below the driver's side headlight.

Here's a shot of the oil filter from the side:

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Bicycle part Cylinder Bumper

It's going to be a bitch to change the filter, but let's be realistic, once I get the engine undercover in place and the inner fender liner, The car won't get that much use. I asked my friend in Oklahoma if he also drained the oil from his cooler when he changed the oil, and a year later he's only driven 400 miles; I suspect I'll be in the same boat, and once I really need an oil change, I'll be tickled pink happy :)

The TEMS motors are wired back in. I gave up on trying to use the OEM connectors. I definitely got good at removing the pins, but crimping them is still a challenge They looked like shit! Besides, I've finally given up on trying to get things in their original places.

I installed the hood pins on both sides where they need to be positioned. This absolutely required a few of the relays to be moved. The fuel pump relay is mounted in this picture how it will ride. I will extend and wrap the wire from that white connector to the relay.

.

Vehicle Motor vehicle Hood Car Automotive tire


The pins themselves are a couple of inches too short to work at this position. I have a 12" piece of threaded stainless that I will cut to fit to extend these pins through the hood. Not excited about drilling my carbon fiber hood. The location that I have to cut is on a seam on the underside of the hood... so, not going to be fun :(

Bent a piece of aluminum to fit over the oil hoses once they're in. It will also serve as a mounting place for two more relays that are being moved on the driver's side.

Hood Automotive lighting Automotive design Automotive tire Bumper

I'm still going to do some finishing on the corners... lots of sharp edge here. The hole through to the oil filter is pretty sharp, too. Lots of neat places to donate blood and deposit DNA.

Progress is slow and not necessarily pleased with the results.

The wiring harness for the coils and injectors is stalled. The bracket for mounting them isn't coming as hoped. The machine shop where I was to make it is an 80 mile drive and day spent there "hanging out". The friend that I was making a second harness for, and the connection to the machine shop, has decided to go with different coils and different injectors, as well as having yet another shop finish his setup. There's very little incentive for them to let me finish the one for my car... on to plan B, or is is plan C? lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
Drilled my carbon fiber hood for the passenger side hood pin. Came out well, but taught me that I won’t be enlarging the windshield washer jet holes to take a modern squirter.

Automotive lighting Hood Automotive tire Automotive design Vehicle


These things felt sort of cheap, but they weren’t and are supposedly stainless steel.

Hood Automotive design Automotive lighting Automotive exterior Gas


Friday for the other side.
 
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