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Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
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Discussion Starter · #81 · (Edited)
Let me absorb that and read a little. Presumed because I was not using the magnetic clutch, I wouldn’t need the relay.

Thanks for pointing it out and clarifying. I’ll have to look it over as I think there were two relays I marked to remove.
 

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Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
The AC is independent of the ECU. AC is an input to the ECU for bumping up the idle that's all. It will run just fine without it. But you said you didn't need the magnetic clutch relay, which is why I asked if you were ditching the AC.

Here is the factory wiring for the boost pressure sensor and injector resistor pack. Also shown is TEMS. The factory sensor is 2.5bar for the boost gauge so it may be ok for your needs.
TMDR? Question at end of this post :)

Here is the screen clip from the post discussing the relays:
264103


The A/C Condenser fan is not being used because of the intercooler installed, there is no room, so I'm not using Relay No. 1. The duel electric fans with their own shroud eliminate the OEM fan, the one with the Magnetic Clutch, so that relay is gone, too.

Neither of these fans is being used. In fact, just pitched them in the dumpster two days ago after offering them for free on the local FB group thread twice. I'd better not need them :( Seriously, there's no room.

Kitchen utensil Headgear Petal Audio equipment Circle

Not addressed in the original post are the two relays on the passenger side which are present on my car, but marked as being for the "A/T in the 7M/GTE". They are both present on my car, and I confirmed on the data plate that my car was an OEM R154 (i.e., car is not a conversion to stick). No idea why these are present, but they should not be necessary based on definitions of "condenser fan relay #2 and #3".

That's four relays down, not needed, not used, should not be necessary. I still expect to have A/C. I guess that's why I presumed you were saying the Speeduino was the cause for not having A/C. I'm used to a critical assessment of the choice to use a Speeduino.

The injector resistor pack is eliminated, actually replaced, with six-inline resistors for my low-impedance injectors run sequentially. (Not pictured, not mentioned, the igniter is gone, too, with the addition of 6 smart coil-on-plugs).

Here are the resistors mounted to a plate. Haven't figured out where to put them, somewhere near the six-wire quick disconnect plug, as out of site as possible.

Rectangle Font Circuit component Wood Ruler

Headlight Cleaner Relay and Fuel Pump Control Relay, as well as the not pictured turbo boost pressure relay are present, and presumably still required. The turbo boost pressure relay was mounted on the resistor pack's bracket as per the picture you provided, and the one I have came off my car. Funny though, my wiring harness, the one on the inner fender, not the engine harness from Tweak'd, has connectors coming out at two different places and they both cannot be reached at the same time. Puzzling, but glad the resistor pack is gone :)

I need to pick a relay for the coils and do not believe one is required for the injectors. I am still hunting for a data sheet on my coils to determine the proper values based on load. I'm not asking for that value, I want to figure that one out myself.

My question is: What is it related to removing these A/C relays that will leave me without A/C?
 

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Wait! The magnet clutch relay is for the AC magnet clutch built in to the AC compressor. It turns the compressor on and off. Not sure why you keep wanting to throw it out unless you have decided to pitch the AC compressor.
 

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Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
Wait! The magnet clutch relay is for the AC magnet clutch built in to the AC compressor. It turns the compressor on and off. Not sure why you keep wanting to throw it out unless you have decided to pitch the AC compressor.
That explains it. Thank you. Relay kept.
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 · (Edited)
Earl's brake lines for the front of my car with stock suspension, brackets, hoses, etc., were incorrectly built and could not be installed "properly". There was no way the hose could fit in the bracket in the first picture below:
Gas Auto part Metal Font Electric blue
It looks like it will work, but I remember it wouldn't work which is why I had used a tie-wrap to secure the hose to the bracket...knowing the day would come that it would have to be fixed.

Today was almost that day. Here's a shot of how I fixed it... well, almost I need a c-clip to hold it in place, but, well, take a look here:
Composite material Tool Metal Household hardware Fashion accessory
Removed enough of the bracket for it to fit over the hose. The adaptor on the hose that secures to this bracket requires a c-clip to hold the hose in place. There are two other fittings on the hose that are secured this way, too. Of course, there are no c-clips in a baggie hanging on the hose... so it's a trip to the hardware store and/or AutoZone.

I also re-attached the ABS sensor cables and pushed the grommet back in the hole on the inner fenders. The connectors under the hood had been a puzzle and I could find nothing for them to be used for... until someone here helped me with a picture. I jacked up the car and removed the front bumper and wheels, and low and behold, the wires were tie-wrapped to the suspension.
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Automotive design Fender Bumper
Each of the wires has two brackets, one that attaches to the upper a-arm, the other one has no obvious place to bolt to, but it must, it hasn't changed under there is the 16 years it's been like that... waiting for me to figure it out.
Tire Wheel Crankset Vehicle Automotive tire
The wires under the hood are all defined now, they await me to cut them off or dress them. The hole size for the sensor wires was perfect for one of my battery cables and I purchased grommets to finish the job. I knew I was going to have to drill one hole next to this one, but I'd totally forgotten about the ABS sensors.

So two holes will be drilled on the driver's side. The cables coming through the firewall are done a bit more substantially. Here's a picture of how that's done:
Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Steering wheel
My battery, cut-off switch and an inline fuse block are mounted in the right rear passenger side with the seat removed. Both positive and negative cables run under the driver's door sill plate to the matching connector on the firewall.

I may change my mind and use this style connectors where the two cable pass through the inner fender, but the plan is at the moment to use rubber grommets.

The garage is so tight that the four or five things that I have to remove to get to the car will only fit with the front bumper on the car, but with the car jacked up as it is today, that bumper is off and sort of under the car.

I hate putting her on jack stands again. I'm supposed to be working on the top side :)

But this is progress. Every little bit checked off is progress. Tomorrow to the hardware store.

Good night.
 
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