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02 Simulator Wiring Directions

23K views 29 replies 16 participants last post by  BlackSupra93 
#1 · (Edited)
EDIT August 24, 2007.

As stated below, Caspers is no longer available. There is a new solution to fixing this problem. Jeremy Blackwell from "Speedforsale.com" has developed a totally Plug N Play O2 faker. No wires need cutting, no need to worry about 2nd O2 at all.

See NEW link HERE--->:[http://www.speedforsale.com/supraparts//product_info.php?cPath=26&products_id=323

This is the new version of a perfect problem solver for CEL on 1996 + OBDII cars.

_________________________________________________________________

I will keep some of the below stuff here for reference, but basically no longer needed.


READ FROM Caspers WebPage:-Effective 8/2/2006

"At a recent meeting of the Board of Directors, Casper's Electronics, Inc. executives have decided to discontinue the sale of, support for, warranty of, and all affiliation with the O2 Simulator product line. We will be focusing our resources on new and exciting products for the high performance aftermarket automotive industry!

We apologize for the inconvenience. Please check back with us often to see what innovative items we have store! "


I am therefore "removing" all referenaces from Caspers. Meantime I will search for an alternate brand. If someone know's of one, PM me, and I will add to this thread.

 
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#6 ·
When you install a Down Pipe, you loose your Oxygen Sensor because you no longer have a Cat. The MIL or Check Engine Light comes on because the onboard ECU tells you something is wrong with that Bank 02. So you need to install a "simulator" that tricks the ECU into thinking that the Cat is still there. This also will eliminate the MIL Check Engine Light from coming on.

Stu
 
#7 ·
sorry for reposting on an old post but no one will answer me.
Ok ive installed an 02 fooler on my 98 twice now, with no luck.
I am begining to think im throwing a different code.

Ok as stated above "you must take out drivers side door to install"

I must be doing some thing wrong because I installed it at the ecu with the active wire to pin 47. the others to power and ground. It is getting power and ground cause it "winks" at me.

If im taking the wrong steps please help me the mils killing me.

Daniel
 
#8 ·
Removing the door thing is a little bit of an overkill. Just need to take the drivers seat out because it makes it easier to get to the wires.

Daniel, The only thing that I can see that *may* be the problem is that you MUST cut the wire going away from Pin 47. You didnt say you cut the wire at the ECU, you say "installed"

It should work! Its a very simple install. + (power) - (ground)
and the signal wire going to pin 47 (or under the seat)

Stu
 
#9 ·
i just read this... why wouldn't you just install it @ the ecu and cut 47? seems a lot easier than taking out the driver's seat.

i got the mvp wire harness and wired it in this way on my 98. no problems.
 
#10 ·
There is really no reason why you can't install this at the ECU. The under the seat option makes it a lot easier for people that are afraid of digging into the ECU. I know of people who freak when it comes to cutting/splicing there! Besides, it is a great place to put the unit, under the seat, cut the one wire and be done with it!

Stu
 
#12 ·
Actually, the last few Casper's O2 sims that we have installed have been plug and play, with no splicing required. Just pull the driver's seat, pull the carpet back, unplug the stock rear 02 sensor, and plug in the sim :) They changed it a while back.
 
#13 · (Edited)
What's this thing under teh driver seat. I just got a Jasper O2 simulator. https://www.casperselectronics.com/...creen=PROD&Product_Code=104037&Category_Code=

From my understanding, I thought you wire it into the harness next to the rear sensor itself. I thought you have to jack up the car and wire this into the wires near the DP. Can someone take some pictures for me? Would appreciate it a lot. I have a 97.



Also can someone put this in a lame term I might understand?
PIN#1=Brown/White *No connections*
PIN#2=Black/Red B+ *connect to Caspers Pink (Red)
PIN#3=Red/Blue (Cut this at the harness) and attatch
the Caspers Purple to the ECU side of cut wire. Tape off
cut wire that went to the 02 (no longer needed)
PIN#4=Brown=Ground connect toCaspers Black & Blue


What's with pin#4? It connects to both the black and blue wire from the Casper simulator?
 
#14 ·
The 4 "Pins" refered too are for the OEM 4-wire harness under the drivers seat. The 02 wire is fed through the chassis under the drivers seat, and is where the factory harness is located. From there the wires go to the ECU. So when I say "Pin #1" that is the Pin # on the factory harness under the seat. The next phrase is telling you what colored Casper Wire you connect to the factory harness wire.

Again, the purpose of the Caspers unit is to "fake" the ECU that the 02 is still functioning properly by providing a "fake" signal. So basically, other than providing the 12V and Ground, you are providing the "signal" wire that the 02 normally is sending to the ECU by cutting and replacing it with the Casper's signal wire.

The "Ground" wire happens to connect to 2 Casper wires. It is the design of te Caspers for some reason (2-grounds)
 
#16 ·
Stu Hagen said:
There is really no reason why you can't install this at the ECU. The under the seat option makes it a lot easier for people that are afraid of digging into the ECU. I know of people who freak when it comes to cutting/splicing there! Besides, it is a great place to put the unit, under the seat, cut the one wire and be done with it!

Stu
Stu -

I am going BPU this weekend and I bought a used fields wiring harness. I would like to cut into this harness by the ECU rather than cutting some wires under the drivers seat.

I looked @ the terminals of the ECU and is seems there are two pins I might be able to tap into. Pin 47 [Ox2] on the B connector (Sub Heated Oxygen Sensor) and Pin 72 [HT2] (Sub Heated Oxygen Sensor) also on the B connector.

Can you shed some light on how you installed the O2 Simulator on the ECU side, not under the drivers seat.

Thanks,
 
#18 ·
I'll put this in here since I don't know whereelse to put it. I have a 97. I installed the Casper's o2 fooler a while back. I just recently converted to OBDI. I was wondering if I can leave the unit still attached or must I remove it. And does it do any harm by leaving it vs. removing it?
 
#20 ·
We got the male/female wire harnesses that I had made in today, and I will test fit them tomorrow. The new oxygen sensor simulators will be here within a week. They are NOT the cheap ebay type that is a simple resistor. These pull off of power going to the rear o2 sensor power wire and have a microchip that sends a fluctuating signal back to the ECU so it thinks there is an actual sensor there. It also has a red LED on the box so you can verify it is working. They will look similar to the o2 sim on our webpage, but will be more streamlined.

The cheap resistor type 'o2 simulators' send a capped off voltage reading back to the ECU that does NOT fluctuate, and can often times still cause a check engine light.

So, with our new o2 simulator, if your rear o2 sensor gets clogged with lead from running race fuel or otherwise goes bad and can't send back a proper signal, you will still not get a check engine light since it is it's own unit. However, the cheap ebay resistor type simulators REQUIRE THAT YOUR REAR O2 SENSOR WORKS PROPERLY, otherwise you'll get a check engine light.

We should have our first batch of 10 units made by the end of next week. The price should be the same as it is now.
 
#21 ·
I forgot to post back up here to mention that our new PLUG AND PLAY oxygen sensor simulators that I made are in stock and ready to ship. We have tested these on several cars with no problems, they work just as they should. We also have an installation write-up on our website (link in the product description).
Here is the new simulator:
http://www.speedforsale.com/supraparts/product_info.php?products_id=323

 
#22 ·
Sorry to bring up a dead thread bu thas anyone installed the one MVP motorsports sells? I wired it in just after the clip under the drivers seat. The light is blinking at me so I'm assuming that it works. Plugged in an OBDII ecu and first thing the car did was throw the check engine light. Im perplexed, and I dont really feel like having to keep taking out the drivers seat.
 
#24 ·
I did, but I dont like that light on. for it to be off with obdII...you need to do this and put resistors in the VSV plugs.

It's still nice to know whats wrong with you car though, which is why im adding an obdII port shortly.
 
#28 ·
I thought this would be a good place to add a small bit of information about the O2 heater sercut when adding a O2 fooler...In the past everyone has just left there secondary O2 plugged in to have the ECU read the resistance in the sercut. Well I did a 2JZGTE OBD2 swap in my MK2 and didn't have a extra O2 just for the heater sercut so i thought id try something stupid simple to fix the problem and it worked...

All i did was tap the heater sercut wire from the primary O2 right @ the ecu...

SO in short tap pin (from my 98 book) B72(HT2) to B71(HT) and you dont have to have a second O2 at all with a O2 fooler.

The ecu reads the resistance form the primary O2 and its happy thinking that its reading resistance from the secondary O2. The primary heater sercut is unchanged.
 
#29 ·
All i did was tap the heater sercut wire from the primary O2 right @ the ecu...

SO in short tap pin (from my 98 book) B72(HT2) to B71(HT) and you dont have to have a second O2 at all with a O2 fooler.

The ecu reads the resistance form the primary O2 and its happy thinking that its reading resistance from the secondary O2. The primary heater sercut is unchanged.
Is there a concensus as to whether this solution works? I have a 98 with no catalytic converter so the check engine light comes on for the secondary O2 sensor

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