Get a used GE engine and build it while you enjoy your car. Engine builds can be time consuming at times and it would suck having a perfectly good car down for quite a while getting the engine built. You can pick up a used GE setup for less than $500 from junkyards. I honestly think it would be a waste of money to buy a totally new shortblock but its up to you.

 

A lot of machinists (including mine) believe that older (seasoned) blocks actually become stronger over time due to the continuous heat cycles they've been through.


Take a gander at this thread:

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general-archive/seasoning-cast-iron-87355/

 

Very Interesting Thread swing lo!! Cast Iron Engines are so badass!! heavy, but powerful! and for HotSoup, I love the idea of being able to build my dream engine while still being able to run mine! i checked around a bit and can only find complete engines from japan with the stock twins around 50k miles. cant seem to find anyone that sells just blocks, like you said alot of GE blocks in the junkyard, now would i need to machine new holes for the oil squirters if i get a GE block?

Thanks for reply's!!

 

From what I've read, you don't need the oil squirters with aftermarket rods/pistons

 

that's correct. with forged internals you won't need the oil squirters.

built GE block will be cheaper and just as effective. Just not sure if you should use the GTE or GE oil pump...thoughts?

 

I'd just get the parts you need over time and use your engine during a downtime, maybe in the winter?

Steve K.

 

Hello Again!

After some time to think, i'm going to be using my block this upcoming winter. I know i can save a lot of money if i get the parts myself and just have someone put it together, but you need someone very reputable to do a bottom end build. Also, with a new block i need to buy everything that goes on/in the block also which gets expensive fast. Then again maybe the 7800 dollars is worth it for a bulletproof bottom end from Titan Motorsports! It's the stage 2 street/race block with the reworked oil passages/billet mains which is nice! The oil passages is the only thing that not everyone can do i think?

For the Block, I wont be drilling the head studs out because those nice new L19 stock sized ones that ARP makes! So now i'm looking into compression ratio's i wanna be able to run normal 93 octane if i cant find any E85 so i'm thinking 9:5:1.

My Goal for my Supra is 1000-1100 horsepower on high boost for the strip and around 750-900 with the boost turned down running semi slicks on the road.

For the Head, I'm either putting GSC Springs/Retainers with There S2 Cam's/Valve Seals on a stock unported head, which I'm not sure if it can flow enough for the horsepower that i'm looking for (Still need to do some more research) OR if the stock head cant take it i'm just going to buy the ported/polished head from PHR with the EGR sealed off. I don't want to if i don't have to yet, i do need something to look forward to once this is done! I'm not planning on revving past 8500-9000rpms for reliability reasons and am still trying to figure out how shimless bucket's are measured and how they change with high life camshafts! fun fun!

Thanks for all of your replys!

Also! I am putting the pictures together for my build thread so i'll be posting it up in about a week! tons of custom work/parts!

Here's a few preview pics!

Take Care!

Dan.

 

My Goal for my Supra is 1000-1100 horsepower on high boost for the strip and around 750-900 with the boost turned down running semi slicks on the road.

Pretty lofty goal. Hope you budgeted $20k for it because you didn't mention a turbo or supporting mods that I saw. Clicking the "buy it now" for the top head and block option is only the start.

Al

 

I've seen a lot of supras making good numbers with stock head BUT imo you should go all in with a ported/polished head. I would imagine this would be a nice gain at high boost even if youre not reving like a shivic !

 

True, the engine build is only part of it. The ported head would be the last thing I would do. Many have made good power on the stock cyl. head (Craig, Jessica, several others) so for the cost that would be the last thing I would do. You'll need fuel, standalone, intercooler, exhaust, manifold, turbo, etc to support that goal. $20K easy.

Steve K.

 

Hey again! I currently have 1000cc Injector Dynamics and an AEM v1 standalone (Ancient technology but should get me there) the standalone is half of the budget 1A1 was talking about after doing some research on newer standalone's.

But at the end of the day i would have spent another 4-5000 on just a few features that the v1 does not have, while at it replacing all my existing sensors, wide-band/coolant temp/new plug n play harness and so on, for some overpriced new name brand version thats plug and play ((ProEfi)) it's a complete money pit imo.

To accomplish my goals I will need ID2000's and dual -8 lines and to add another walboro pump (Will make 3 pumps to one -10 to a Y block split to two -8's to the rail, my fuel rail is a billet autobahn with interchangeable ports, so i will be gtg fuel wise!

The Turbo i am looking at now is one of the Borg Warner S400 series in a T4 housing to support those numbers that i want, (I'm open to opinions!)
The GT4202R 1.01 A/F Housing turbocharger that i have now will put out mid/high 800's so it will suffice until an upgrade. I'm running a full race exhaust manifold that the previous owner bought, twin tial 44 wastegates. He paid 2500 for the manifold and it was rated to 1100hp or so, so it will flow enough for me until i get the new turbo to break tripple digits! Like you guys said there's a whole turbo kit pretty much! lol.

See price isnt really at the top of my concern list, I'm single, almost 30 and I make good money, and i want to keep it that way for a few more years so i can build the car up the way i want! This is my dream car and i'm going to build it right, the first time! That's where the money comes in upgrading every part 5 times!

Thanks for the comments!

Dan.