Supra Forums banner

201 - 220 of 222 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
806 Posts

·
Glad to be back
Joined
·
2,180 Posts
Id just get a tundra alternator and call it a day. I did one in my car, and it awesome. Powers my fuel system, sub, 2 amps, and everything else in my car great. Spent about $100 total.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
I just installed my alternator and I wanted to be sure I did it correctly as I am registering a little over 14v at idle with no major change during revving. Assuming this picture is from the back of the plug and that the "IG" and "S" wires are the top (the area where you depress the button to unplug the harness) I wired it into my factory harness like this. S = White. IG = Yellow or Black-Yellow and L = Yellow-Green.

Does this sound correct?

I know this is a old thread and I read all 21 pages but wanted to confirm the wiring above. My car never had the connector for the alternator. Unsure why the previous owner did this.. I bought the connector but realized since my car never had the connectors I would need the pins too. Anyone have the part number for the pins?

My wires are this color: beige, yellow, and yellow with green stripe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,919 Posts
So after trying out two TT auto alternators and still getting shitty voltage output, I said enough was enough. Returned the TT auto alternator and picked up a Lexus GX470 alternator (27060-50320).

First off, I'd like to say that the pulleys are the same. No need to exchange pulleys at all if sticking to OEM. De-pinning the 3 pin connector was simple, just pull the white tab out to unlock the connector and below the terminals are little plates that are lifted up. Lift up and pull the wire.

From a 97-98 Supra body harness
Supra 3-pin >>>> Lexus 4-pin (90980–11964):
(Yellow-Green) Pin 1: bad alternator light goes to pin 4
(Yellow) Pin 2: ignition goes to pin 2
(White) Pin 3: constant 12v goes to pin 1

Pin #3 on the new four pin connector is unused, fill it with silicon.

Honestly the lamest part was cutting off a piece of the upper ear mount. In inches, it was about 0.25". The actual measurement of the upper ear mount for the Supra is 1.25", Lexus is 1.50", so just shave off 0.25" or mock it up and see for yourself. I personally took it to a machine shop to get it professionally done. Turned out literally perfect, looks OEM.

The battery cable is for M8, the lexus alternator is for M6 but the cable fits well on the M6 bolt, just use a M6 nut and lock washer from home depot and be done with it.

I highly recommend to also shave off the mount next to the crank pulley, because why not? It's useless and too close to it.

Definitely a worthwhile mod. I hope it lasts me a long time, and if it ever shits on me, I would definitely get another. Tundra, 4Runner and Lexus GX470 is the same 130A alternator. Sequoia is the only one rated at 150A.

I hope this post helps someone. Too much scattered info.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
534 Posts
I just installed my 2007 Tundra alternator. Part number 27060-0F070 130amp. Repinned the new connector exactly like above and used the m6 flange nut on the factory cable. I swapped my pulley over for good measure but it appeared to be pretty much identical. I paid $55 shipped for a lowish mileage one off the auction site.

Does any one have logs of what their battery voltage is after the alternator swap?

My voltage before was like 12.8 volts and after the swap around 13.6-13.8V.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
Does any one have logs of what their battery voltage is after the alternator swap?
I've got the 150 amp alternator and with a full electrical load my voltage is 13.6v measured at the battery, 13.7v at the alternator output stud. Current output was measuring 152 amps at the battery. Hooked up a dead battery and turned everything electronic on and had someone roll the windows up and down while I measured. Have a total of 16' 2/0 cable from the alternator to the battery.

If you want a higher voltage set point and are fairly handy with electronics you can swap the voltage regulator for one out of an 01-04 Acura/Honda that has a set point of 14.5v. Denso part numbers are 126600-0040, 126600-0041, 126600-0042.

Another option is 14.2v set point. Denso part # 126600-0150. These were used on 03-09 Lexus/ Toyotas.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
534 Posts
I've got the 150 amp alternator and with a full electrical load my voltage is 13.6v measured at the battery, 13.7v at the alternator output stud. Current output was measuring 152 amps at the battery. Hooked up a dead battery and turned everything electronic on and had someone roll the windows up and down while I measured. Have a total of 16' 2/0 cable from the alternator to the battery.

If you want a higher voltage set point and are fairly handy with electronics you can swap the voltage regulator for one out of an 01-04 Acura/Honda that has a set point of 14.5v. Denso part numbers are 126600-0040, 126600-0041, 126600-0042.

Another option is 14.2v set point. Denso part # 126600-0150. These were used on 03-09 Lexus/ Toyotas.
Good to know! Shouldn't the 14.2v ones be the ones used on these 03-09 lexus and Toyota 130 amp alternators we are using in this thread? It looks like they were on the 4.7L motors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,650 Posts
I ordered the mechman 240 v alternator a couple days ago. Hopefully it lasts longer than the brand new Toyota factory one did. I didn't realize how much amperage I had added with the electric fans, sub, methanol injection, larger fuel pump etc. My factory lasted about six months. Hopefully this one does what it's suppose to do and lasts a little longer. If paying more money makes it better then this thing should be the bomb.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,919 Posts
My voltage before was like 12.8 volts and after the swap around 13.6-13.8V.
Same. Are you NA or TT?

After driving for about 15 minutes, car holds a stable and steady 13.7V. It refuses to go below. It's awesome.

I ordered the mechman 240 v alternator a couple days ago. Hopefully it lasts longer than the brand new Toyota factory one did. I didn't realize how much amperage I had added with the electric fans, sub, methanol injection, larger fuel pump etc. My factory lasted about six months. Hopefully this one does what it's suppose to do and lasts a little longer. If paying more money makes it better then this thing should be the bomb.
I asked a good friend who knows his stuff about alternators and he said mechman was a good choice. Keep us posted though!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
Where do you see the part numbers? And when buying one of these 130amp alternators, is there a part number or something we can look for to see which voltage model it is?

TIA
Some of the voltage regulators will have the part number printed on them with a black ink of sorts. Easiest way to tell though is to connect the volt reference wire and jump it to the output stud on the alternator and take your voltage measurement directly off the alternator stud. On a cold alternator this is the simplest way to check it.

Pretty much all my info comes from cross referencing from a Denso hairpin alternator parts catalog with Toyota parts dealers. The Denso catalog doesn't give the voltage set points so I get that info from Google searching the part number usually.

I have the catalog in .pdf so if you want it PM me your email and I'd be happy to send it to you. It is current as of July 2017 so it should cover anything we'd ever be interested in.
 

·
Mamba Still On Top
Joined
·
3,445 Posts
I ordered the mechman 240 v alternator a couple days ago. Hopefully it lasts longer than the brand new Toyota factory one did. I didn't realize how much amperage I had added with the electric fans, sub, methanol injection, larger fuel pump etc. My factory lasted about six months. Hopefully this one does what it's suppose to do and lasts a little longer. If paying more money makes it better then this thing should be the bomb.
If you are looking for an alternative, it's a bit more expensive but I've been happy with the DC Power unit. The MKIV design was prototyped on my car and so all the fitment teething trials were mine to experience; they got it right on the 2nd/3rd go around and it fits great. No issues encountered to date.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
534 Posts
Same. Are you NA or TT?

After driving for about 15 minutes, car holds a stable and steady 13.7V. It refuses to go below. It's awesome.



I asked a good friend who knows his stuff about alternators and he said mechman was a good choice. Keep us posted though!
I am TT.

So the weird thing is the first time I started the car with this "new" 130a alternator swap I saw 13.7-13.8. After that with the car running at idle I see around 13.0-13.2 volts. In my logs through proefi I see voltage anywhere from 12.4-12.9 during a pull.

This is the same voltage issue I was having with the factory alternator. It almost seems like this alternator didn't change anything. Any ideas?
 
201 - 220 of 222 Posts
About this Discussion
221 Replies
71 Participants
daviddi92
Supra Forums
Supra Forums is the largest online Toyota Supra MKI, MKII, MKIII, MKIV and MKV owner's club community. Discuss DIY, modifications, and upgrades.
Full Forum Listing
Top