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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Any car that's getting an aftermarket oil cooler should also be getting an oil temp gauge. As for the reliability on those thermostatic bypasses, I have seen exactly one failure ever. It was a very old Mocal thermostatic bypass that came off of an old SCCA car before ending up on a Formula D car that was ran in Formula D and later Formula D Pro 2, and then was moved onto a street car. It was stuck in the open position allowing oil through the cooler 24/7, and that was only discovered when pulling datalogs from the car on oil temps. So at least 10+ years of intermittent use on a competition vehicle before another 3-4 years on a street car before failure. For a $150 component I'm okay with that. :)

I think Dr. 3p141592654 (henceforth known as Doc) ((no idea if it's actually a doctor but he definitely knows WTF he's talking about)) is on to something about Toyota's thought process when designing the 7M-GTE. An OE configuration for typical passenger car use is a very different use case for the MK3 as it is today, which is a relatively high-maintenance enthusiast car. The latter case being a good case for a quality oil cooler and thermostatic bypass, which is sort of the understood context of anyone messing with a MK3 these days.
But when they were a fancy new sports car for folks wanting a fancy sports car, that's a very different use case and I can see how reliability would be demanded over ideal performance.
 

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1989 Sport Roof White Pkg 7M-GTE
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My car came from the previous owner with BC264 cams instead of the stock 240 cams. I notice upgraded cams are not on your list of upgrades. I would not have put them in but since it came with them I'll keep them. Why are these not on your list of modifications for more power?
 

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@3p141592654 I'm just having a bit of a train of thoughts here, re. the oil cooling conundrum we spoke about a days back - the Mocal/Laminova C43 series of coolers, in 180mm core length seem like they would be fairly well matched to our setup (if we consider the factory setup to be sufficient for a fast road car) and provide some breathing room.

They're not cheap (as most good things) but they definitely are in my eyes a better solution than a new oil to air cooler.

They also come in 35mm water fittings, so installing one would be just a matter of putting it inline with the bottom radiator hose (I believe there's room).

Now, I'm wondering how would one go about modifying the factory oil filter housing to permanently flow through the exchanger? Admittedly the oil system in a 7M is something I've never bothered to take apart and have a look at the individual bits. I imagine a sandwich plate would be necessary, and then one would shut the pressure relief closed?
 

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I think this is covered in post #1 very briefly (7M-GE oil filter union bolt w/oil filter relocation kit and full flow oil cooler with a thermostatic housing, use original oil cooler as a power steering fluid cooler).

Basically you remove the 90 degree GTE filter mount with pressure relief and replace it with a relocation adapter. The best would be something like this canton pair

261252
261253
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
My car came from the previous owner with BC264 cams instead of the stock 240 cams. I notice upgraded cams are not on your list of upgrades. I would not have put them in but since it came with them I'll keep them. Why are these not on your list of modifications for more power?
This thread is aimed at folks wanting basic upgrades while keeping the stock ECU's with a stock turbo or a rebuilt/upgraded stock turbo. The stock turbine housing on the original CT26 is fairly small for fast spool up and good midrange torque, but this chokes off peak hp especially above ~5000rpm or so.

Higher duration/lift cams with upgraded valve springs are absolutely a fantastic upgrade for peak HP - but the gains are all realized in the high RPM range where the stock CT26 housing is choking off power production in a big way. So unless you're replacing (or planning to eventually replace) the factory CT26 exhaust housing either via a bolt-on upgrade like the SP61GT or a full T4 flanged setup, upgraded cams aren't a cost effective upgrade.

Eventually, my intent is to make a similar thread here on building a successful and reliable 500+whp 7M-GTE.
 

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Here is a link to the Drift Motion MK3 Supra parts page. Click here. They have parts even the Toyota dealership doesn't have anymore at reasonable prices (mostly).
 
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