Supra Forums banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey,

so ive made a bit of progress on my 1jz+e6k 240z. Ive gotten the engine to fire and run for about 2 seconds. I do not have a noise filter on the ignition, so this may be my problem. I had to run the trig advance at 45, home gain at 6 and trigger gain at 3 to get it to run for this brief period of time. I did charge the battery as much as possible before starting, took it for a 30 minute drive, but toward the end of my trials I think it was starting to die again


Odd problem to diagnose,

sometime when firing, then engine would sound like it was healthy and wants to take off but then the ecu will die, the laptop says reconnect haltech and the last recored values are 500-600 rpms and the battery voltage around 11. Is there a common problems this may be caused by?



If anyones got any ideas let me know!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update: Ive researched and found the correct trigger wiring. Ive now been able to zero the timing at tooth offset 10 and trigger angle 95,

As before, right when it sounds like it wants to really fire up the ECU dies, leaving me with the values frozen on screen with 600 ish RPM, and a battery voltage above 10, 11.5-10.5v's.


Any ideas?
 

· slow.
Joined
·
931 Posts
Update: Ive researched and found the correct trigger wiring. Ive now been able to zero the timing at tooth offset 10 and trigger angle 95,

As before, right when it sounds like it wants to really fire up the ECU dies, leaving me with the values frozen on screen with 600 ish RPM, and a battery voltage above 10, 11.5-10.5v's.


Any ideas?
Sounds like your switched 12v wire is improperly connected and is switching off the haltech when you crank. BTW, use 10 for the tooth offset and 65 for the trigger angle. and make sure your using the rear cam sensor. You also might find that you need a RA10 reluctor adapter to amplify the crank signal as it can be weak on the jz crank sensors.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
are you sure you you mean rear cam sensor? Ive read its front sensor. I can crank the engine over fine with the plugs out. It will correcly spark each plug in relation to the crank position, but when I put it all together and go it fire it up, it fires and the ecu shutsoff.

Ive gone and retimed the engine using 11 tooth offset and 65 degree offset and its bang on 10 deg so Ill give it a shot today. I also rewired the majority of the power lines with better etiquette but it still gave me the same issue. Replaced the cam sensor with the spare and replaced the crank sensor plug that's wires were slightly cracked.

Gonna go give it a try now
 

· slow.
Joined
·
931 Posts
Well it depends on what trigger edge your using. If your using rising its better to use the rear, if your using a falling trigger edge then use the front (this is default and most commonly used). How do you have your ignition wired up? Make sure your using a ignitor between the coils. I know it sounds stupid but a lot of people have wrecked box's because they hooked up the ign outputs directly to the COP's.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
when i called haltech they said to use the front cam sensor and that both sensors are falling. I will get my settings and post them up, Ive been fighting mine for just shy of 2 mouths working on it little bit here and there, mine starts and runs i just need to get the wideband and start adjusting fuel.

If you need help i stronly sugeset you call halltech, claudio will get you you squared away in a matter of minutes, I though they were wrong at first, but once i found out that my dampder pully slipped it made all the differeance in the world.

my problem was is that i inserted haltech's settings and it was sitting about the 9'oclock postion on the pulley, but never tried to run it, then i adusted the trigger angle to 99 and 10 offset and it was right on the money with the dampner pulley, i went to start it and it ran very rough. so i was getting alittle anoid and decided to go to haltech's settings and it start and revs very nicely.

before I called haltech I though it was a iginiton issue so i grabbed some LS coils i had laying around, but they didn't fix the problem, claudio says you should be able to run the factory jz coils and ignitor.

edit: when you change your igniton settings you need to reset the ecu by turing the haltech off then back on by cycleing the key
 

· slow.
Joined
·
931 Posts
when i called haltech they said to use the front cam sensor and that both sensors are falling. I will get my settings and post them up, Ive been fighting mine for just shy of 2 mouths working on it little bit here and there, mine starts and runs i just need to get the wideband and start adjusting fuel.

If you need help i stronly sugeset you call halltech, claudio will get you you squared away in a matter of minutes, I though they were wrong at first, but once i found out that my dampder pully slipped it made all the differeance in the world.

my problem was is that i inserted haltech's settings and it was sitting about the 9'oclock postion on the pulley, but never tried to run it, then i adusted the trigger angle to 99 and 10 offset and it was right on the money with the dampner pulley, i went to start it and it ran very rough. so i was getting alittle anoid and decided to go to haltech's settings and it start and revs very nicely.

before I called haltech I though it was a iginiton issue so i grabbed some LS coils i had laying around, but they didn't fix the problem, claudio says you should be able to run the factory jz coils and ignitor.

edit: when you change your igniton settings you need to reset the ecu by turing the haltech off then back on by cycleing the key
The JZ series of engines has to be one of the simplest engines to wire up. 99% of the time it's incorrect settings or a poor wiring job. I've fixed countless wiring jobs as a haltech installer because the customers were incompetant in their wiring abilities. With the jz ignitor, coils, factory sensors, and stock injectors (whether it be 370, 440 or 550) the haltech 2jz base map will start ANY JZ engine. If it doesn't start then either something is wired wrong or you do not have fuel going to the engine properly.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
I can get it to start fine and go threw the start up phase fine, but it just won't idle. what are settings that i should mess with? I'm pretty positive i don't have any vacuum leaks, also this is with timing locked at 10 degrees, should i try to get it to idle locked or just unlock it and go from there?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ive repalyed with a set of 4cyl GM coils. I had the old system wired right but as I didnt have the plug I had to solder wires to the ignitor and had miss matches connectors to throw it all together. Im much happier with the GM setup. Its deisgned for waist spark, and the wiring is just 3 trigger wires + and -, its all self contained, vs the 11 plugs my old system used.


I still have the same problem, I cant even get it started. It wants to fire up, but the second it starts to go the ecu will shutdown. I dont know if its possibly a software issue, maybe im using the wrong programmer version, Ive rpetty well rewired the entire engine, it wants to run but something keeps holding it back.


Do you still have the contact info for claudio?
 

· slow.
Joined
·
931 Posts
Ive repalyed with a set of 4cyl GM coils. I had the old system wired right but as I didnt have the plug I had to solder wires to the ignitor and had miss matches connectors to throw it all together. Im much happier with the GM setup. Its deisgned for waist spark, and the wiring is just 3 trigger wires + and -, its all self contained, vs the 11 plugs my old system used.


I still have the same problem, I cant even get it started. It wants to fire up, but the second it starts to go the ecu will shutdown. I dont know if its possibly a software issue, maybe im using the wrong programmer version, Ive rpetty well rewired the entire engine, it wants to run but something keeps holding it back.


Do you still have the contact info for claudio?
Usually it's a good idea to add a few ms of fuel just incase it's running lean. The big thing on maintaining an idle on these engines is the IAC motor. You must play with the IAC settings in order to maintain a proper idle - or do the best option and remove the IAC and adjust the throttle stop screw for a rock solid idle. I believe you guys just really need to read up some more on the software. Haltech software can be finnicky, but it's usually something that has been overlooked.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Ive data logged my last attempt. on 3 start up attempts the the last recored voltage was 9.8 once ( would cause the ecu to reset), 11 and 10.8 or something. This is with a battery that was fully charged (according to the gauge on my crappy charger)

Once again, the problem im having has nothing to do with idle, its the ecu resetting after a few ignitions. I have a feeling everyone will jump on the "its your battery" band wagon but I don't think so as ive tried 3 different batteries from running cars with the same result. Tomorrow I will attempt to get it running with the starter on a separate battery. Ill post a video in one sec of the problem
 

· Registered
Joined
·
856 Posts
when i called haltech they said to use the front cam sensor and that both sensors are falling. I will get my settings and post them up, Ive been fighting mine for just shy of 2 mouths working on it little bit here and there, mine starts and runs i just need to get the wideband and start adjusting fuel.

If you need help i stronly sugeset you call halltech, claudio will get you you squared away in a matter of minutes, I though they were wrong at first, but once i found out that my dampder pully slipped it made all the differeance in the world.

my problem was is that i inserted haltech's settings and it was sitting about the 9'oclock postion on the pulley, but never tried to run it, then i adusted the trigger angle to 99 and 10 offset and it was right on the money with the dampner pulley, i went to start it and it ran very rough. so i was getting alittle anoid and decided to go to haltech's settings and it start and revs very nicely.

before I called haltech I though it was a iginiton issue so i grabbed some LS coils i had laying around, but they didn't fix the problem, claudio says you should be able to run the factory jz coils and ignitor.

edit: when you change your igniton settings you need to reset the ecu by turing the haltech off then back on by cycleing the key
Can someone explain how the haltech figures out RPM and where the cly's are? The wheel the 2jz/1jz have is a 12 tooth wheel without a home spot on them. (Unlike a 60-2 wheel) But we select 24 multitooth wheen + 1 home. I am using the rising edge of the front cam sensor. My car runs ok that way. I can't get it to run using the falling edge like I am told to use.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
flip the cam wires? then try falling; that is what i did.

any one have problems getting there car to idle? I can get it to start and rev, but it just won't idle
 

· Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
I have the IAC, also has anyone notcied that when yuou use the factory sensors they show about 20(F) degress hotter then it actually it is?.

just wish i could get this to idle. doesn't matter if the engine is warm or not just won't idle. i pulled the manifolds and cleaned and reinstalled and made sure there is no vaccum leaks, i found i can get the engine to kinda idle at 1K rpms and about 3% throttle, should i just adjust my idle screw to that point and hope for the best?
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top