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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi, im trying to redo my harness with an new one.

i went to 10 electronic places(not counting radio shack, auto zone,pep boys) none of them have any pair sheilded wire.

i want to know what did everybody use to extend the strainded 1 pair sheilded cable part. all the other wires are extended already except for 4-6 wires that are sheilded pair cable.

any assistance would really relief my stress(itchy) head

thanks in advance
 

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Any decent industrial/commerical electronics supply carries the wire.
 

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If all else fails, use USB cable. Its what i used on my first car, still runs great today.
 

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Go to a shop that sells computer parts and such. Buy loose usb wire.
If you dont find any, pm me and I can buy and send you enough to rewire all the shielded wires on that harness. : it won't cost more than 10 dollars for the wires.
 

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Just throwing an option out there: Doesn't someone on this forum make and sell harness extensions for the 1jz swap? Maybe they could sell you one, but I guess if you already extended all the wires but that one you wouldn't want to spend the extra money.
 

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If your swapping a soarer 1jz into a sc300.. you dont need to extend the ECU harness, only the body wires. No shielded wires on those.
 

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I used USB 2.0 cable. 4 wires, use 2 wires for each of the 2 signal wire you are extending. Make sure to keep the shielding intact. After cutting it, I peeled it back about 6 inches on each side. Then took 2 wires from the USB, soldered it to one on each end, shrink tubed it and did it again. Next, bring the shielding up around those wires and connect on each end. I used some RG6 shielding to make up what I was missing. The shielding protects against noise and is the ground for the circuit, so it must remain intact (electrically). When I was done I used a large shrink wrap (put it on first when I first cut the wire) then taped it. Test, wire end to wire end on each one to make sure you have good continuity and then wire to ground to make sure you didn't get any of that shielding in the signal wiring. Should be good to go. The one I did has run flawlessly for about 1.5yrs so far.

Marty
 
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