Supra Forums banner
1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone, im new to the forums and im planning on doing an increasingly popular swap, I'm putting a 1jz into an e36. Now i am waiting to hear back from Dr.Tweak for the wiring so ive got that covered so while i wait im collecting parts for a rebuild of the motor. I have ordered a full gasket set from Champion Toyota but i was wondering what else should i get in the mean time.

My plans for this car is a daily driver that is autocrossed regularly and HPDE about 4 times a year (the things i do with my current car), all external engine modifications i already have; oil cooler, dual fans, big rad, ect. My future plans are to go single (already have an SC61 sitting down) and push to ~450 whp.

In the mean time im more concerned about making the engine a reliable daily driver so my plans are to tear it apart, send the head to get milled, the block to be cleaned and change over all seals. I might also get 2jz regrinds ive seen some dyno curves for 1jz and they seem to nose over around 5500 rpm, coming from an M, rpm is an addiction im not willing to give up.

So my question to all of you is, what else should i replace or look to replace. Should i upgrade to ARP bolt and Stud set or should i stick with stock? Are there any sensors that give constant problems? Is replacing the keepers and retainers necessary?

thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
198 Posts
My 1jz was reliable how it came, i put a rear main seal in, thats it; im running a 62-1 turbo. But everything you named won't hurt....If the engine looks clean on the inside with good compression results chances are the engine is healthy.. The issues i had was with the ecu; so i would check for leaky caps. The reason the power takes a dive is because of the stock twins. Most 1j's make power until 6500-7000rpm if you want more than that, you will need cams. factory rev limit is set at 7300-7500rpm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the advice, i saw an ecu rebuild from a shop that i saw online, cant remember the name though.
It failed a compression test, although i didn't do a wet compression test so im not sure if its the rings or not. So i need to crack open the engine, figure since im there i might as well replace a couple other things as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,110 Posts
Thanks for the advice, i saw an ecu rebuild from a shop that i saw online, cant remember the name though.
It failed a compression test, although i didn't do a wet compression test so im not sure if its the rings or not. So i need to crack open the engine, figure since im there i might as well replace a couple other things as well.
What were the compression numbers? A motor that hasn't run in a while won't do well in a cold compression test, so I wouldn't put a lot of weight on those results.

I've installed at least 40 JZ motors imported from Japan, most of those being swaps in Mk4's, but several 1JZ's in SC's and my Mk3. Not once have I had a bad motor. No compression issues, no head gasket issues, etc.

Here's what I would recommend you do to refresh an imported JZ motor:

PCV Hoses
Coilpack Clips (just buy the plastic housing, not the whole connector, that way you don't have to cut wiring)
Valve cover gaskets
Cam Seals
Valve stem seals
Front main seal
Rear main seal
Water Pump
Timing belt
Timing belt tensioner (and idler if it makes any noise)

If you feel like it, it wouldn't hurt to pull the pans and check the condition of the bearings. Be sure to ONLY use Toyota FIPG to seal it up. That stuff is absolutely the best on the market.

A lot of people coming from the 7M world tend to think that these motors need to be rebuilt, but I've never seen one that needed anything more than fresh seals. I've never so much as pulled a head on a swapped car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What were the compression numbers? A motor that hasn't run in a while won't do well in a cold compression test, so I wouldn't put a lot of weight on those results.

I've installed at least 40 JZ motors imported from Japan, most of those being swaps in Mk4's, but several 1JZ's in SC's and my Mk3. Not once have I had a bad motor. No compression issues, no head gasket issues, etc.

Here's what I would recommend you do to refresh an imported JZ motor:

PCV Hoses
Coilpack Clips (just buy the plastic housing, not the whole connector, that way you don't have to cut wiring)
Valve cover gaskets
Cam Seals
Valve stem seals
Front main seal
Rear main seal
Water Pump
Timing belt
Timing belt tensioner (and idler if it makes any noise)

If you feel like it, it wouldn't hurt to pull the pans and check the condition of the bearings. Be sure to ONLY use Toyota FIPG to seal it up. That stuff is absolutely the best on the market.

A lot of people coming from the 7M world tend to think that these motors need to be rebuilt, but I've never seen one that needed anything more than fresh seals. I've never so much as pulled a head on a swapped car.
5 cranks turned out pressures from 195-210 (some cyl had oil in them) for 4 of the 6, Cyl 4-5 both showed low comparatively cly 4 showing 125 and cyl 5 showing 175. There was also alot of oil in the coolant and the previous owner said car had over heated. All thing point toward the Headgasket so far.

No smoke coming from the tail pipes though so who knows. i will be throwing up some pics as i start to dig into this thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
198 Posts
What were the compression numbers? A motor that hasn't run in a while won't do well in a cold compression test, so I wouldn't put a lot of weight on those results.

I've installed at least 40 JZ motors imported from Japan, most of those being swaps in Mk4's, but several 1JZ's in SC's and my Mk3. Not once have I had a bad motor. No compression issues, no head gasket issues, etc.

Here's what I would recommend you do to refresh an imported JZ motor:

PCV Hoses
Coilpack Clips (just buy the plastic housing, not the whole connector, that way you don't have to cut wiring)
Valve cover gaskets
Cam Seals
Valve stem seals
Front main seal
Rear main seal
Water Pump
Timing belt
Timing belt tensioner (and idler if it makes any noise)

If you feel like it, it wouldn't hurt to pull the pans and check the condition of the bearings. Be sure to ONLY use Toyota FIPG to seal it up. That stuff is absolutely the best on the market.

A lot of people coming from the 7M world tend to think that these motors need to be rebuilt, but I've never seen one that needed anything more than fresh seals. I've never so much as pulled a head on a swapped car.
Yeah, i forgot i also changed the front seal and installed a new timing belt ....I even installed a new clutch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Always place the crank standing up. Good Progress!
Thanks ill keep it up

Well since i cant post pics in this thread yet because of my post count i figure i might as well write it out.

The engine has be completely torn down and the head and block are out at the machine shop to get checked. When i pulled the pistons they all had light scoring on the bottom of the skirt, the previous owner said the car over heated so this pretty much confirms it. The scoring is so light that i can run my nails over it and it doesn't get hung up, only on 2 of the pistons did it get slightly hung up.

I'm debating to get the pistons coated with an anti scuff material called PC9 to cover up the scoring, this also increase piston width by .102 mm and since the block will at minimum be deglazed i figure this could tighten my wall clearance back up, would like some opinions on this if anyone is willing to give them.

There was light contact with the walls but any marks that were made still had the cross hatches visible over them so IMO it shouldn't be anything to worry about.

There was a bit of sludge found on the cam caps, Main and Rod bearings all looked good except for the front most bearing that had a large gash encompassing the entire lower half of the bearing, found the metal stuck in the oil pump pick up filter (thank god it didn't go in, it was at least an 1-1/4 inch in length). No marks on the crank though surprisingly.

The clutch is absolutely shot and took out its anger on the Pressure plate, i want to go with a used pressure plate (preferably a spec 2 or HD PP) then go with the a full face clutch, it will be a daily after all. Lightweight flywheel surface will be replaced.

overall engine has standard wear and tear, im just hoping the machine shop doesnt tell me that the bores are out of wack since it seems that no one makes OEM type over-sized pistons for this motor (correct me if im wrong please).

As soon as i get enough posts in ill bring on the pictures!.

Any Suggestions so far?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,110 Posts
You can run a 2J piston, but it will bump your compression ratio some. I wouldn't worry much about scuffs on the bottom of the skirts, as that's pretty typical. I'm a little weirded out by your messed up bearing, I'd like to see pictures of that. I don't know how far you want to go with the rebuild, but the 2jz oil pump is the same if you're looking for a replacement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,110 Posts
You can run a 2J piston, but it will bump your compression ratio some. I wouldn't worry much about scuffs on the bottom of the skirts, as that's pretty typical. I'm a little weirded out by your messed up bearing, I'd like to see pictures of that. I don't know how far you want to go with the rebuild, but the 2jz oil pump is the same if you're looking for a replacement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
UPDATES

Painted the engine block black after it was hot tanked an deglazed

Engine Block Painted by kareem.richards, on Flickr

Cylinder Head cleaned with new seals in and pressure tested, head shaved with a diamond finish

clean cylinder head by kareem.richards, on Flickr

ARP main studs courtesy of MassiveCaC

278658_685713313258_39705557_35170461_6732865_o by kareem.richards, on Flickr

Cross hatching after deglazing, has reflection due to oil i placed on it to keep the rust off

277564_685716097678_39705557_35170494_5915853_o by kareem.richards, on Flickr

Found a goodie in the fuel tank right before i crushed the car, a Walbro 255 LPH, previous owner never mentioned it.

271701_685716581708_39705557_35170499_7791613_o by kareem.richards, on Flickr
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
To all you Guru's out there, I want to add PC9 to side skirts to help protect the pistons as well as Gold ceramic to the top, i am worried about the added diameter to the pistons. I called swain tech today and they said it adds about .002 of an inch to the overall diameter, i figure with a warn block and the deglazing that i should have enough clearance.

Would anyone be able to tell me if i can use the PC9 without a re-bore?
 

·
7M Fanatic
Joined
·
3,273 Posts
Looks good ! (even if it's a 1JZ).
I never build an engine any more with out coatings.
I even coat the valves, combustion chamber, and exhaust ports with ceramic.
(I am set up to do it myself)

But I was amazed that there was a 1JZ with a blown head gasket...
Imagine that !
Some people preach that it is the ultimate engine.
Probably because they make the all mighty $ at doing the swaps.
 

·
7M Fanatic
Joined
·
3,273 Posts
You don't know how much I have thought of doing it.
I have a Blitz turbo manifold, SARD waste gate, Wiseco pistons, and other bits.
But I already have a turbo build in progress, and my buddy is actually starting on the cage.
(after years of that car sitting at his shop, a buddy type of deal)

And besides, nothing like an over-priced 7MGE build to stur up controversy :werd:

I just can't decide where I want my TRD 264 and 288 cams, in the NA or the turbo car.
Almost think the turbo would be better with a little less duration, seeing that I'm looking at putting a lot of boost on it.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top