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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys!

me and a freind is doing a swap right know but has bumpt in to some problems and i hope you can help me out.

the car starts really easy and the idle is great, but as sone as you hit 1500-2000rpms it starts to cut the ignition (this has been tested) it missfires and black smoke comes out. so when you give throttle it goes up cuts fall down again and then goes up etc etc.

we have rebuildt the harnesst. but haven't isolated the cables that were isolated, can this be the problem?
we have tried to unplugging the knock sensors but without result.

what have we missed,anyone got any ideas? we are all out!!!!

best regards Daniel
 

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you have to sheild the knock sensor wires the car will never run right if you dont,i think people use the usb cable and it works fine .if that dont solve your problem cheack your coilpacks
 

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supra love
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not sure about the smoke and all but the reason i first came on the forums was because i couldn't get my 1jz swap to run above 2500 rpms. i didn't have any smoke though.

but it was a simple solution, i had an extra harness plug connected by the ecu. so i would try disconnecting one of the smaller harness to body plugs by the ecu and see if that helps. not sure which one though.

does it idle fine?
 

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Not so boring anymore
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codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
hi

thanks for the answers!

ok will try these things.

how about if you dissconect the knock sensor contacts, will this work or do they need to be conected? (i know in the longrun it needs to for safty)

what should i look for with the coilpacks?

what i meen about the smoke is that it goes extremly rich when cuts come.

i am not really sure i follow you jizake1jz,"harness to body plugs" you refer to the engine ecu? or the other one?

there is no trouble with the idle.

tissimo we can't get any codes on it, the check engine lamp starts some times but not every time. and when we do a reading the lamp blinks all the time without a paus. don't know what this means, can this be a faulting wireing?

best regards
 

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jizake1jz:

Do you think you can pull up your old thread if the solution is there?

cp joel and I are having similar problems... I have a well documented thread that I've already started.... and the one thing I haven't tried is to disconnect the body plugs yet.

I take it you eventually solved the problem because you're all good now?

Let us know... i've been on this problem for almost 2 months now and very frustrated.

cp joel: you can look at my other thread for things to try as well. You might find something useful in there.

-J
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hello!

So this is a problem alot of people have troubles with and nobody has solved this.... this does not bring my spirit up!!! well will check these things as fast as i can after work!

if this isn't working i think it's time to start looking for a megasquirt or likewise just to get it going!

biggest problem is the lack of 1jz in sweden, so i can't really borrow tps, coils etc too try, so it will be really expansive really fast!

Plz keep writing so we can get a ending to this shity problem!

best regards Daniel
 

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Well, if the CEL keeps flashing when you check the codes, that means there's no code stored. If it flashes briefly when it misfires, it's probably telling you there was an ignition miss, the ignitor did not fire a coil. This would eliminate any spark plug or coil problem if this was the case.

Does the motor rev differently with a little bit of gas as opposed to flooring it? If it acts differently in each case (like smoothly revving up with small throttle, and having difficulties with full throttle) then this would point to either a TPS or MAP sensor.

Edit: ooh, very important! What is the tach doing when it starts missing? If the tach starts jumping down when it's missing then the ignitor is definitely not firing a coil.
 
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