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bumppers, anyone actually has pics of the stock ignitor area AFTER you have soldered the wires?
 

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bumppers, anyone actually has pics of the stock ignitor area AFTER you have soldered the wires?
Just about to do a coil conversion myself.

The info is all in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bnU42Hv1214
Skip to around 25min to see his explanation on the ignitor. Its a bit sllooooooow video but has the info. Basically there is an input from the ecu into the ignitor for each channel, and one output from the ignitor for each input, you link the input/output of each channel to remove the stock ignitor. Keep the noise filter
 

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alright guys, its gotten serious!!!



I need a walkthrough to get rid of this state and stock prohibitory...
 

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We have actually managed to start the engine with these coils and the oem 2JZGTE VVTI ECU. As well as the 1UZFE coils that happened to work flawlessly too.
The stock Igniter was eliminated, and so far the car has covered more than 30 hours of driving without a single hiccup.
We tested them on a Lexus IS300 with a 2jzgte vvti single turbo swap at 0.7 bar of boost

if anyone is interested let me know and I will try to post the Wiring Map and Diagram that we have drawn.

- Saeed Ali

yes that would be very helpful
 

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Just about to do a coil conversion myself.

The info is all in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bnU42Hv1214
Skip to around 25min to see his explanation on the ignitor. Its a bit sllooooooow video but has the info. Basically there is an input from the ecu into the ignitor for each channel, and one output from the ignitor for each input, you link the input/output of each channel to remove the stock ignitor. Keep the noise filter

but but but,,, this is for ls coils. they make you ground the tach signal..
 

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so I went ahead and did this swap, took me all day yesterday, lots of soldering(duh). and eyeball/tape measuring. I have done this on my rb25 with ls truck coils. difference is I have a nistune on that one and that is closer to stock ecu than the aem I have with this car.

so we begin with pulling the car into my work (shop) yes I'm too poor for a garage.




looking at the diagram they really just go from left to right.




after I got to snipping, wanted to leave SOME pigtail on the plug.




and here is what it looked like after, I left the grey box and that small plug for now, I tapped off the 6 wires for now.




next up was wiring the coils themselves. so I spliced as far back in the harness stalk as I could because the more new wires you have the better.

I also know you do not need the tach wire, but I spliced each one into 1 wire going to the back because I now have to get an after market tach because now it does not work.





and finished product. I tried changing the coils in the wizard, but they were acting funny so in the meantime until I can get to larry they are set on the stock tt coils and they run just fine.



 

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Nice work! thanks for posting this, very helpful.
So, you just linked the 6 coil input/outputs and the tacho no longer works?

Anyone got a solution for this???
 

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Ive been chasing a soultion for a while but no luck. How are your tt coils working without an igniter?
 

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Ive been chasing a soultion for a while but no luck. How are your tt coils working without an igniter?
A solution to what? no tacho signal?
Can anyone explain this a bit more in detail, I run a standalone ECU piggybacked to the OEM auto ecu which controls the auto box functions. Am I correct in thinking in removing the coil inputs from the stock ignitor as per this info (to fit some 1zz coils) will mean I lose tacho signal and need to try and source it elsewhere?
 

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im aware of that, but he said he went BACK to vvti coils, did he rewire the igniter back up from that?
I said "set to" I run a v2 and you have a listing of spark coils you can select.
 

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A solution to what? no tacho signal?
Can anyone explain this a bit more in detail, I run a standalone ECU piggybacked to the OEM auto ecu which controls the auto box functions. Am I correct in thinking in removing the coil inputs from the stock ignitor as per this info (to fit some 1zz coils) will mean I lose tacho signal and need to try and source it elsewhere?
if you run a "standalone" then you do not have an ecu. if you have a piggyback, then you do not have a standalone...
 

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if you run a "standalone" then you do not have an ecu. if you have a piggyback, then you do not have a standalone...
Inocorrect.. I run a Link G4 standalone ecu but that only controls the engine side of the equation. The auto ecu is there for controlling auto box functions. SO it is in fact a piggybacked standalone.
You have done something wrong to have lost your tach and speedo. and you run a standalone.
 

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Inocorrect.. I run a Link G4 standalone ecu but that only controls the engine side of the equation. The auto ecu is there for controlling auto box functions. SO it is in fact a piggybacked standalone.
You have done something wrong to have lost your tach and speedo. and you run a standalone.
correction the speedo does work(although it's still off).

this is a swap, so in order to get the tach to work in the first place you needed to jump a wire behind the cluster, the tach does not work because there is no tach signal sent back to the cluster

#1 on connection A

 

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Just an update, i made 750whp @28 psi on these (my setup is on previous page) with BKR7E's gapped @ .32. No spark issues at all. Dwell settings on PROefi are 2 across tbe board.
 
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