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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all...If you have a BPU++ (FMIC+ Cam gears) and are running 20+ PSI, would it be safer AND easier on the turbos to run them sequentially, or to run the TRUE TWIN Conversion? Also, what difference have you all seen in performance between the two, if any at all.
 

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I am BPU and I will have say it is definitely both safer and more reliable to run TTC as I do.

1. It's safer because lets say that one link in the complicated sequential system fails and #2 isn't properly prespooled and you are running twice stock boost levels. Uh oh what happens? Shaft twist of the number 2 turbo and it is now dead. That's not necessarily a bad thing because now you have an excuse for that single turbo conversion you've always wanted :)

2. It's more reliable. Imagine you have the stock boost levels again #1 spools and you boosting about 10psi, #2 kicks in and you go up to a whopping 11psi. Now let's say you run 22psi you shoot up to twice the boost really quick and this puts a huge stress on the turbos.

As a side note I've never heard of sudden #2 failure from someone in TTC.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
sounds intersting... what mods do you have to run 22psi..

obviously the basics... but what else.. FMIC, fuel, etc etc??
 

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Mods I have:

Tanabe G-Power
RMM Downpipe
Greddy Boost Guage
Manual Boost Controller
EGR Block Plate
NGK 6097 Plugs
TTC Mod
12v Fuel Pump Mod
FFCD

That's all you need to run 22psi. But it's only safe to run 18psi on pump gas on the stock twins or else you start to get a nice amount of timing retardation which does bad things in the long run.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
how safe is this... or for that matter.. how reliable is this??
 

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burnmacs said:
I am BPU and I will have say it is definitely both safer and more reliable to run TTC as I do.

1. It's safer because lets say that one link in the complicated sequential system fails and #2 isn't properly prespooled and you are running twice stock boost levels. Uh oh what happens? Shaft twist of the number 2 turbo and it is now dead. That's not necessarily a bad thing because now you have an excuse for that single turbo conversion you've always wanted :)

2. It's more reliable. Imagine you have the stock boost levels again #1 spools and you boosting about 10psi, #2 kicks in and you go up to a whopping 11psi. Now let's say you run 22psi you shoot up to twice the boost really quick and this puts a huge stress on the turbos.

As a side note I've never heard of sudden #2 failure from someone in TTC.
1. True :)

2. Thats not really an issue, the boost is shooting up really faster (or faster) on our TTC cars. They are ment to accelerate and decelerate. Running high boost will shorten the life of the turbos (especially the turbo seals). Like Mike mentioned, they just probably won't up and 'explode' like people have their #2 do.

Over ~18 psi or so will knock on 93 octane. Add the high intake temps of the stock turbos (if the IC becomes heat soaked) and the extreme amounts of backpressure generated by their tiny turbine wheels and you have even more detonation. Good thing our engine are extremely tough, it will take a while for high boost to damage things (AMHIK).

Make SURE and get an EGR blockoff plate.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
considering our cars are 11psi stock, 18psi seems to be a resonable estimate for basically stock components..

in this type of situation, would a rising rate fuel pressure regular help ...

Also, Im pretty sure a FMIC would only help protect the engine at high boost levels as such...

My personal delima with this type of boost on stock components such as fuel, turbos, and IC .. is that the fact that you are almost doubling their performance... and yet this might be fun to drive, Im pretty sure it cuts the life, or whatever life is left, by 4 or 5..

So, how do you explain to the Toyota Extended warranty guys.. "uhh well, it just overboosted, I dont know what happened..." "Maybe it was SUPER high boost settings, that did it.."
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Grant said:
Make SURE and get an EGR blockoff plate.
Where can I get one of these friggin things, and are they easy to install?


Thanks
-Steve
 

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Darkgrey3K said:

Where can I get one of these friggin things, and are they easy to install?
They are very easy to install and only $15. Instructions on intallation and how to order from Mohd are at http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/egr_mods/1/index.html.

Mohd is a great guy and always has the cheapest prices on parts he's a dealer for, his EGR plate is also top notch quality.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
burnmacs said:
Mods I have:

Tanabe G-Power
RMM Downpipe
Greddy Boost Guage
Manual Boost Controller
EGR Block Plate
NGK 6097 Plugs
TTC Mod
12v Fuel Pump Mod
FFCD

That's all you need to run 22psi. But it's only safe to run 18psi on pump gas on the stock twins or else you start to get a nice amount of timing retardation which does bad things in the long run.
is there really a need to run as high as 22psi? Personally i don't think it'll reap much extra above 18psi coz it merely overheats the air.
 

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ianong said:
is there really a need to run as high as 22psi? Personally i don't think it'll reap much extra above 18psi coz it merely overheats the air.
LOL...Tell that to all the guys putting down over 450RWHP on stock twins and running mid/low 11's at over 123mph. I'm sure they'll appreciate the tech tip. :rolleyes:
 
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Discussion Starter #16
markmark7 said:


LOL...Tell that to all the guys putting down over 450RWHP on stock twins and running mid/low 11's at over 123mph. I'm sure they'll appreciate the tech tip. :rolleyes:
Well, thats maybe coz yours have the export spec CT12b generates much less heat compared to the jap spec that i'm currently using. Thats one reason i believe why the FMIC may not be as impt for the export models. On japs, even as "low" as 19psi, it's virtually a must.
 
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