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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I installed 272 8.68mm of lift cams in today, and the car purs like a kitten. I got about 10-12inches of vaccum and no lope with the cams dialed in to 0 on the cam gears. The cams are quality cams and line up just like the stock cams when set in place.Anyone debating the decision of the 264s or 272s and want power should go the 272 route if you have new springs. Now all I have to do is get my Wolf ECU installed finally!
 

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512RWHP... 503RWTQ... 7M
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3,292 Posts
Good job... Looks like you got your cams QWIKly... :) Im just happy to see you guys starting to get them in... Congrats...
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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5,941 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Reign....it wasnt too Qwik, but Qwik enough! If those guys let the delay stop them from getting these cams they will be sorry. I got a good idle at 750 rpms with no F/N lope. This is on an emanage VPC to boot.
 

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684 Posts
Wow you got yours already. Good deal. Congrats.

Mo
 

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501 Posts
heh.. I'm jealous. What does 10-12psi of vacuum work out to in inches?
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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5,941 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
No need to degree them in Al....they truely are plug and play. Brian Crower himself told me the lobes line up just like factory cams and there is no need to degree them in. I also line matched them up before I installed them and the lobes are lined up just like stock. You just put them in and if you want to fine tune Brian said DON'T adjust more than 2 degrees in either direction. Based on how they are functioning I agree. I got a 750 smoothe Idle and no lope with the VPC emanage setup. Soooooo since I feel the profiles of the lobes are the same as the stock cams with more lift, I highly reccomend them. This really was a simplle straight forward install. The timing tag that comes with the cams say the same thing about only needing to tune 2 degrees in either direction and the degeeing them in is to set the cams in and set the cam gears to the 0 mark.
 

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2JZ Mk2
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1,183 Posts
Well I hope you're right on the 272s. I just called my order in for them instead of the 264s. Unfortunately it didn't sound like there are shipping to mid next week sometime. Hopefully the idle is good. I've been burned in the past with poor idling aftermarket cams.
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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5,941 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Dude trust me if you have new springs and a turbo to blast to the 7k+ rpm range these are a GO. I would not tell you do do so if it was not working for me. The lobes line up just like the stock cams, and if you have an after market ECU to really tune them you will love them. Hell it runs so smoothe I cant tell they are installed, and this is with half ass tuning on a VPC Emanage combination.
 

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I demand a video! of these installed.
 

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4,772 Posts
Whats the lift on those?
 

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lift is 8.68mm or .342":1poke: the specs were in the 1st post
gotcha, im in the process of getting custom cams made, same duration just lift is gonna be around .488 ish :)
 

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Grumpy Old Man
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4,210 Posts
Ant: It all depends on what work the motor has had done, anything that's not stock will affect where true 0 on the cams is ie: Head being milled Block being surfaced and Gasket thickness so on.
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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5,941 Posts
Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Ant: It all depends on what work the motor has had done, anything that's not stock will affect where true 0 on the cams is ie: Head being milled Block being surfaced and Gasket thickness so on.
True dat IJ.....that said it still is only a drop in plug and play affair! If the statement you make is true for those that had work done I suggest you drop them in at the zero mark test the setup and fine tune as necsessary.
 

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Will my Supra ever run?!!
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276 Posts
Yeah, the head being milled, a different sized head gasket, or a milled block will all cause the cam timing to change. If you make the distance between the crank center and cam center shorter (by milling the head or block), the tensioner takes up the slack, but steals a couple degrees from your cam at the same time.

Sounds like those cams are SWEET!

Our motors are a BITCH to degree ;)
Is that because of the valvecover removal? I've been debating fabricating a two-piece valvecover so that when I want to tune the cams, I can just pop off the front cover, and not the whole thing. It would also make the piece of billet required MUCH smaller.

You're not the only person with a CNC mill in their garage IJ :p.
 
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