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Hi there, new here to the forum so not sure if I'm in the right place - checked engine dipstick, oil was basically non-existent. Filled with 5.2Quarts, or ~5L, and went for a quick drive. 3rd gear pull, white smoke absolutely billows out from everywhere, and then dissipates & doesn't return till I get home to open the bonnet. I find large amounts of oil everywhere, however I see no active leaks whilst engine is idling.
My running theory is that a PRV blew out owing to overfilled oil? Either that or gaskets blew out, which I'm really hoping it's not but surely if it was I'd see leakage whilst idling no?
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Any help greatly appreciated
 

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It seems you already know the problem. The PCV valve is completely missing on the intake side & you are venting to atmosphere on the exhaust side valve cover. You need to work out a PCV system, oil catch can or both before you really f**k your engine up running it out of oil. Vaporized oil is extremely flammable. (how oil heaters work) If you light the vapors off on a hot manifold or turbo housing you are really asking for major problems & will probably burn down the car.
 

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Thank Christ I was somewhat right - mate I'll be honest this is the first 2JZ I've owned, and I thought I could sort of go for it alone and there's nobody here for support, I've never even rigged an oil catch can or anything of the sort, as long as it's not a gasket then it's at least something I can do relatively easily - thank you alot!
It seems you already know the problem. The PCV valve is completely missing on the intake side & you are venting to atmosphere on the exhaust side valve cover. You need to work out a PCV system, oil catch can or both before you really f**k your engine up running it out of oil. Vaporized oil is extremely flammable. (how oil heaters work) If you light the vapors off on a hot manifold or turbo housing you are really asking for major problems & will probably burn down the car.
 

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There are tons of threads here on Catch cans & PCV systems.
 

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Always add oil progressively when topping up, and ALWAYS wait 2 or 3 minutes and then check your dipstick after each time you add oil, to avoid overfilling.

You dont absolutely need a catch can....Do you still have your PCV valve and hose to connect to your intake manifold? If not, then buy them from Toyota and fit them before driving the car again. Likewise for the exhaust side cam cover vent...that is supposed to plumb back into the piping for the TT system, but as you have it converted to a single turbo, you need to run a hose from that vent, to the intake pipe between your air filter and your turbo.

Also, those shiny aftermarket washers you have securing you valve covers down need to be replaced with OEM Toyota washers and bolts, and torque to the correct value as theyre a known common leak point

And as has been mentioned already in this thread...DO NOT DRIVE YOUR CAR IN ITS CURRENT STATE, or you are seriously tempting fate, and the result could be a pile of melted car on the side of the road.
 

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^^ He has a aftermarket intake manifold. The OE hose won't work, He will need to fab something.
 

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Indeed. I was more meaning buying the missing PCV valve.

Any hose that is the right length to run from the PCV valve, to one of the vacuum nipples on the aftermarket plenum will suffice, but without knowing if the nipples on OP's plenum face up or down, its hard to advise any length or shape.

Personally, I have a hose that has a 90 deg bend after it connects to the PCV, then it runs directly down between runners 3 and 4, then rearwards to the vacuum ports. Very tidy :)
 

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Maybe a pic for the OP would help
 
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Like this - this is OEM route


to be 100% effective measure the crankcase pressure using 1-bar map sensor,
And perform apressure test

PRessure test video and Measuring the crankcase pressure videos are up here
 
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