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Discussion Starter #1
After procrastination for a while we finally got the 2jz cams in Thursday night.

Last weekend I was able to dyno and put down 301hp and 289tq with dp, exaust, afc and maybe 95 octane.

Here is the run from last weekend


Then just yesterday I went to a dyno day and ran. The shop failed to put any fans or airflow in front of the IC so this may have to do with not so great results. They also didn't know how to tap into the rpm signal so they decided to take apart my valve cover centerpiece messing up my freshly polished valve covers. Anyhow after the 2nd run we richened it a little but the A/F still was not that great.

1st run 307.19hp and 286.32tq
2nd run 299.95hp and 270.70tq (No freaking fans, and ran it literally back to back...fuckers)
3rd run 303.50hp and 276.10tq.


I will be adding cam gears shortly to dial in the 2jz cams. Otherwise as of right now I'm very unhappy with the results and would say they are not worth the effort.
 

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fbody to supra to fbody
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Too bad :( At least now they're in there tho, so when more mods go on, you might see greater than average numbers, who knows. Good luck with the gears and more dynoing. BTW that A/F line is still sick :bigthumb:
 

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Your Neighborhood Pikey
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I hate to say it, but I kind of thought this would be the case. I don't see how installing cams with no change in duration and just a little increase in lift would be worth all the trouble you guys have put into performing the swap. If I were going to do it, I'd at least put some aftermarket 2JZ cams in the car. Of course at that expense you might as well just get 1JZ cams and call it a day.

Sorry that your results weren't as good as you hoped for.

- Hams
 

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I was wondering if the fact that it appears to be on two different Dynos and 15 degrees difference in temps might have something to do with it. It was on two different dynos right? There can be significatly different results depending on the dyno and the operators from what I understand. Plus I would only expect to see 10-15hp differences anyway. The 2j guys are seeing big changes with the degreed wheels in the curve of some 30+ hp in areas not peak so much. Its still what 140.00 to get and modify them for 10-15hp seems worth it still to me anyway.
Cary
 

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Discussion Starter #5
rgguy, I'm considering going back to the orginal dyno just so we can get some fair numbers. I really think the shop running my car didn't have any clue about imports. Well they didn't think it was a big deal not to put fans on my ic or radiator and caused the car to overheat slightly. So i'm sure it knocked pulling the timing.

And I paid 80 for the cams then some food and helped a friend out to have them machined. So if I picked up 10hp its worth the money to me.
 

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That was my theory its a cheap upgrade and for me it proved the 2j aftermarket cams as an option with out the 6-700.00 price tag and an oops.... that didnt work. It sounded like some thing was going on with the sec runs. Do you feel a difference in the ass dyno when you drive it. Power better in a different spot maybe. Lower in the power band etc?
Cary
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The original ass dyno was telling me that it had more top end power. Which after looking at the dyno sheets the power does not taper off as it did with the stock 1jz cams. That alone is worth the investment and time. :) I didn't notice it till I actually took a better look at the sheets. so I basically have 300hp from 5600 to 7100rpm's consistently. Where as before it would be 5600 to 6200rpm's and then it would drop considerably

I defiantly need to go back to the original shop where they know what they are doing. I feel there are messed up results because of the dyno operators.
 

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Fo shiz... that's too bad bro, but you made a really valuable contribution to the community by doing so, so I'm sure I speak for everyone when I say "Thanks for the info".
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
lastcall190 said:
Isn't it sis IIRC? :p
shh, yes you are correct.

Now I need to hurry and get back to the original dyno so we can have some real results. I'll have to talk Race Related into sponsoring another dyno day so I do not need to fork over $75 bucks for 3 pulls.

oh, rgguy how was your idle after your install? Mine was high till we pulled the EFI fuse and let the ECU re-learn. Now it's back to normal
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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yeah, i think these numbers are botched... the fact that the intercooler never cooled off and the radiator boiled over after the 1st run is DEFINITLy a good suspect of knock and such.

with these cams, the car ran leaner, so i had to put some fuel back into it... but i dont think the ECU ever got to relearn the cams, so it was running the old correction for the old cams with the new stuffs... so i may have to retune it AGAIN after the ECU relearned itself.

and yea, RGguy is right... this was just a test to make sure that the 2JZ cams can be easily modified to fit... id rather mess up stock 2J cams than some expensive Crower's that no one will ever be able to use again.

i did take the lift and duration measurements from the 2JZ cams. we were going todo the 1JZ cams too, but we would have to change the chuck as the 1JZ has a ball bearing pressed into one end and cant use a locator pin to hold it... it would actually need to be held in the jaws of the chuck. so i have to take the cams back and get them measured.

by domestic cam sizing, the 2JZ cams are very weak-sauce. short duration. but, im not sure how they compare to the 1J's. i cant tell since the previous dyno doesnt have the RPM scale, but it almost looks like the power band shifted to the right, which would indicate longer duration, or at least later valve opening events.

i did want to buy the cam gears off my friends car, since hes going with aftermarket cams and wont need them.. but we didnt hav etime for that. so maybe we can do it before this weekend. IIRC, these cams like to be adjusted ; Exhaust -4* and intake +1*.
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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good point... i guess we will have to get some actual dyno time instead of the 3 runs taht we usally get. i guess i need to find out a good method for adjusting the cams...

theoretically, adjusting one cam at a time is the smartest way so that we can quantify each adjustment to find out which works and which doesnt, and then move onto the other cam. i see those guys adjusted both cam gears and then did another pull... my problem with that is, how do you know which cam benefitted from one adjustment. say, the intake cam could have benefitted, but the adjustment made to the exhaust could have been detrimental.
 

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Your Neighborhood Pikey
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Well you're right, there is no easy way to do it. I suppose the only way to do it right is to make pulls on different settings to see what works best. Sadly there are many claims as to what is the best and this is attritutable to large variances in engine setups, condition, etc... In the end you have a starting point and you just have to try different combos to see what works best on your motor.

Best of luck to you, I enjoy watching your threads as they always prove to be most informative.

- Hams.
 

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If the 1JZ is like the 2JZ be careful moving the intake cam - I believe you'll be advancing\retarding timing.
 

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Your Neighborhood Pikey
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It is exactly like the 2JZ. It picks up timing off the intake cam via the front and rear cam sensors.

- Hams.
 

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1JZ BLING!
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Considering the 1J is MAP based, any changes that effect air flow (Cams, etc) should require a retune of the fuel/timing map.

That is the down side of a MAP based system.
 

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Your Neighborhood Pikey
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Very good point I hadn't considered. That would make it logical to assume it's better to perform numerous modifications at once so you can save on tuning time.

- Hams.
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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well, i did have to change the fuel correction on the SAFC when we were trying to get the new numbers from the cams.. i had a good 12.3-12.5 AFR beforehand. with the cams installed and the ECU running on its previous memory, it ran about 13.0-13.2. so i had to put some fuel back into it to get it safer. right now, the car seems to still be running a tad lean. i have to physically get more fuel into the engine, be it injectors, fuel pump, AFPR or a combination. if i put the SAFC correction back to 0 or have to go Positive with it, the Fuel cut will come back.
 
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