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What's up SupraForums, I wanted to give a review of the newly designed 2JZ-GE cast turbo manifold by SPA Turbo.

Originally I had the cheap tubular ebay NA-T manifold with a v-band welded on for the wastegate. I had issues with the ebay manifold not sealing properly to the head and the ports did not properly line up and the slag from the welding inside the manifold was horrible and it would leak in some places that were welded. I also had issues with my turbosmart hypergate not operating properly on the ebay manifold. The turbo oil drain line was way to close for comfort. All around my experience with the ebay manifold was not great.

This lead me to look into other options and after doing some research I came across the SPA turbo 2JZ-GE cast turbo manifold. At a price point of about $700 its hard to beat when compared to other manifolds on the market for the 2JZ that can be in the thousands.

Review: The manifold ports fit perfect and it seals to the head properly and all of the surfaces are machined. Fitment was spot on, the only thing I had to change was 2 of the lower middle studs were to long so what I did was cut some of the stud off in order to make room (See pics) or you can simply remove the studs and put a bolt in its place. The inside of the runners and collector are smooth for the most part. My wastegate seals perfectly and I like how it keeps the exhaust pulses separated all the way to the point of the wastegate (See pics) making it more of a true twin scroll design. The manifold is a little more compact than the tubular ebay manifold (See pics) which to me is a good thing since it creates more room to work with and helps people avoid the distributer if you still have one. My Borg Warner S366 clears the manifold without issues. The compressor housing does come a little close to runner #1 I can almost squeeze my pinky between the 2 however the ebay manifold had tighter clearance so this is an improvement some what. The turbo drain line is much better compared to the ebay manifold it provides a lot more clearance (See pics). Performance wise my turbo spools better and my wastegate works the way it should every time now. Also I like how after a hard run I can pop the hood and not hear all the crackling and popping from the tubular manifold due to it cooling off. The manifold is designed better than the ebay manifold with the runners not running into each other and it having a much better collector and obviously the wastegate design is much better (See pics). My experience with SPA Turbo and there 2JZ-GE turbo manifold has been great. I look forward to trying there new Intake manifold in the near future that I will also be doing a review on, so be on the look out.

I think this is a great option for those that do not want to spend a fortune on a new manifold but also want a reliable/performing manifold that will last for a very long time and get the extra benefit of the retained heat in the manifold for more efficient turbo spool.

If you have any questions let me know and I will do my best to answer them.


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Mamba Still On Top
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Looks great. It would be nice if they made this for the GTE head flange as well.
 

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Mamba Still On Top
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What's up SupraForums, I wanted to give a review of the newly designed 2JZ-GE cast turbo manifold by SPA Turbo.

Originally I had the cheap tubular ebay NA-T manifold with a v-band welded on for the wastegate. I had issues with the ebay manifold not sealing properly to the head and the ports did not properly line up and the slag from the welding inside the manifold was horrible and it would leak in some places that were welded. I also had issues with my turbosmart hypergate not operating properly on the ebay manifold. The turbo oil drain line was way to close for comfort. All around my experience with the ebay manifold was not great.

This lead me to look into other options and after doing some research I came across the SPA turbo 2JZ-GE cast turbo manifold. At a price point of about $700 its hard to beat when compared to other manifolds on the market for the 2JZ that can be in the thousands.

Review: The manifold ports fit perfect and it seals to the head properly and all of the surfaces are machined. Fitment was spot on, the only thing I had to change was 2 of the lower middle studs were to long so what I did was cut some of the stud off in order to make room (See pics) or you can simply remove the studs and put a bolt in its place. The inside of the runners and collector are smooth for the most part. My wastegate seals perfectly and I like how it keeps the exhaust pulses separated all the way to the point of the wastegate (See pics) making it more of a true twin scroll design. The manifold is a little more compact than the tubular ebay manifold (See pics) which to me is a good thing since it creates more room to work with and helps people avoid the distributer if you still have one. My Borg Warner S366 clears the manifold without issues. The compressor housing does come a little close to runner #1 I can almost squeeze my pinky between the 2 however the ebay manifold had tighter clearance so this is an improvement some what. The turbo drain line is much better compared to the ebay manifold it provides a lot more clearance (See pics). Performance wise my turbo spools better and my wastegate works the way it should every time now. Also I like how after a hard run I can pop the hood and not hear all the crackling and popping from the tubular manifold due to it cooling off. The manifold is designed better than the ebay manifold with the runners not running into each other and it having a much better collector and obviously the wastegate design is much better (See pics). My experience with SPA Turbo and there 2JZ-GE turbo manifold has been great. I look forward to trying there new Intake manifold in the near future that I will also be doing a review on, so be on the look out.

I think this is a great option for those that do not want to spend a fortune on a new manifold but also want a reliable/performing manifold that will last for a very long time and get the extra benefit of the retained heat in the manifold for more efficient turbo spool.

If you have any questions let me know and I will do my best to answer them.


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Hi there, what are your turbo specs on this car, and also would it clear the factory intake manifold piping going from over the top to the side of the guards to the intercooler. And it says on the website that it clears distributor but from your photos it doesn't seem like it would, any comment or help? I'm planning my na-t on the supra
 

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From the land down under
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Hi there, what are your turbo specs on this car, and also would it clear the factory intake manifold piping going from over the top to the side of the guards to the intercooler. And it says on the website that it clears distributor but from your photos it doesn't seem like it would, any comment or help? I'm planning my na-t on the supra
I must say that I agree with you in regard to the dissy not having enough room to fit the cap and wires, but if you were to delete them and convert to a COP ignition system, and get a low profile cap, then it would be ok.

To the OP, thats a really nice NA-T set up you have got there, but I was wondering why your IAT sensor is in your intake pipe to the turbo, and not in the cold side intercooler piping before the throttle body? This would be giving your ECU an incorrect reading most of the time.

P.S How have you found the car to drive since installing this new manifold? Any noticeable difference in spool compared to the previous manifold?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi there, what are your turbo specs on this car, and also would it clear the factory intake manifold piping going from over the top to the side of the guards to the intercooler. And it says on the website that it clears distributor but from your photos it doesn't seem like it would, any comment or help? I'm planning my na-t on the supra
Sorry for the delay, at this point Im running a Borg Warner S362sx-e and the compressor housing is bigger then my prior turbo so I had to use a spacer to ensure turbo did not touch the manifold. As far as running the stock crossover intake would depend on the turbo you plan on using but for the most part it will either be very close or touching. I'm running on the TT ECU mod so I do not need my distributer cap any more that is why you see it removed. I can put on a cap and report back on clearance for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I must say that I agree with you in regard to the dissy not having enough room to fit the cap and wires, but if you were to delete them and convert to a COP ignition system, and get a low profile cap, then it would be ok.

To the OP, thats a really nice NA-T set up you have got there, but I was wondering why your IAT sensor is in your intake pipe to the turbo, and not in the cold side intercooler piping before the throttle body? This would be giving your ECU an incorrect reading most of the time.

P.S How have you found the car to drive since installing this new manifold? Any noticeable difference in spool compared to the previous manifold?
Thanks for the kind words. The IAT sensor is in the intake pipe instead of the cold side just for ease of use haven't had time to get a bung welded onto the cold side yet. Ideal spot would be before the throttle body. However from what I have gathered from Ali SC3 is that the JDM TT ECU does not really rely on the IAT as much as the USDM versions do since I am MAP based and majority of fuel calculations come from it. From what I have read it really only plays a role when the car is warming up but once it is then it collects majority data from the MAP. If anyone has any more feedback or insight on this please chime in.

I do have great AFR's and no issues with it being set up this way thus far. The car hits boost more aggressively now and my wastegate/boost control is better. All in all I'm still happy with this manifold no issues to report and I really like the design of keeping the exhaust gasses separated up to the wastegate (I have not seen this done before)
 

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From the land down under
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3,742 Posts
Thanks for the kind words. The IAT sensor is in the intake pipe instead of the cold side just for ease of use haven't had time to get a bung welded onto the cold side yet. Ideal spot would be before the throttle body. However from what I have gathered from Ali SC3 is that the JDM TT ECU does not really rely on the IAT as much as the USDM versions do since I am MAP based and majority of fuel calculations come from it. From what I have read it really only plays a role when the car is warming up but once it is then it collects majority data from the MAP. If anyone has any more feedback or insight on this please chime in.

I do have great AFR's and no issues with it being set up this way thus far. The car hits boost more aggressively now and my wastegate/boost control is better. All in all I'm still happy with this manifold no issues to report and I really like the design of keeping the exhaust gasses separated up to the wastegate (I have not seen this done before)
I had read that also, in regard to the IAT sensor playing a lesser role with a JDM TT ecu, but I just installed mine before the throttle body in my set up to have it in the most logical place, given the factory placement for the IAT sensor is in the intake manifold in a JDM GTE motor, and probably suffers from a little bit of heat soak.

What sort of cap are you planning on running to cover your dizzy? I got a billet one for mine years ago, that Mark from Marks Engineering made a limited run of.

Glad to hear that you are happy with the new set up too. Its always good when all the effort and hard work pay off :)
 
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