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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I understand this is a Supra forum. That said I feel the bulk of the information on the 2jz is here. Given when I was 14-15 (now 31), my cousin had a mkiv and needless to say the passenger seat of that car was a gateway drug at 174mphs. Something about that feeling of being forced into your seat... Anyways, if I could afford the chassis I would have, but the z33 and with a 2jz inside of it.. Dream.

Seems to be that the vvti 2jzge, is a current hidden gem for those willing to break an engine down, and not just short cut with the non-vvti 2jzge stronger internals.

Scooped mine up out of a wrecked lexus for 875 including the freight shipping. I might have bought this ahead of myself and the research required, but I felt like with the way the prices on 2jz are, that this might sky rocket soon as well.


If the title didn't say most of it, then pictures below shows where I are atm.

Goal is daily, with hopefully a reliable 400whp on low boost with a higher boost setting to turn up when I feel like. If this is possible on pump gas that would be dope, I do see alot of talk about e85 though.

So far parts wise I'll be using this as a way to get some feedback/direction and suggestions.


I'm looking at:


2jzge internals:
Feel free to suggest alternatives/additionals that i've missed

Brian Crower SINGLE SPRING/TITANIUM RETAINER KIT (Toyota 2JZGTE/Lexus 2JZGE)$343.69
Brian Crower VALVES - 29mm EXHAUST (Toyota 2JZGTE/Lexus 2JZGE)$226.69
Brian Crower VALVES - 33.6mm INTAKE (Toyota 2JZGTE/Lexus 2JZGE)$226.69
Toyota 2JZGE w/VVTi Stage 2 Camshafts - Street/Strip Spec $ 839.57
I forget what specs are for these cams, but I believe they were from BrianCrower's site
Pistonsxxx
MANLEY H-Tuff rods - 15027-6
ARP studs/headgasket?



Wiring Harness:
+ options still researching
-Any help with deciphering the options on the right would be awesome
-I've been told that I should check with tuners around me to see what standalone they prefer
-I'm pretty sure I can reuse the throttle bottle off my VQ
-Using my cd009, I've heard its rated for 600hp so hopefully thats g2g

Someone in the marketplace bought a new house, and is parting with a bunch of parts,
AEM Infinity 506 I think? I dont see this in the list for standalone aftermarket ecus, and but apparently you can send in what you have they make it work?

Turbo/Wastegate/Manifold:
Reserved.

Fuel Rail/Injectors:
20-0371 Fuel Rail, Toyota 2JZ-GE - ($224.95)
20-0371-PK Fuel Rail Plumbing Kit, Toyota 2JZ-GE, Returnless - ($160.95)
Injector Dynamics ID1050x-60-11-14
1050.60.11.D.6$780.00


Trans adapter kit:
350Z / G35 Chassis to JZ Engine (CD009) Stage 4 (670ftlbs) Swap Kit with 350Z G35 Crossmember and Engine Mounts
~$3,347.99 with options, pretty sure I have these dialed in correctly already

Plumbing/Exhaust:
Reserved.

Current Total:
$6,146.9 + engine + beer



Waiting on tripod to come in so I can set up for a breakdown video.
(please dont mention the trans bolts not being completely flush, yes I messed up and forgot washers to level it out. those bolts were 6 bucks from lowes so -shrugs- should be fine.)

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Went ahead and tore everything off the long block, pretty sure its all being replaced.

Wheel Tire Car Plant Vehicle
 

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Trust me when I say that I totally understand how addictive the 2JZ really is, and the driving force for your build here.

That said, having worked on a lot of 350Z's with a variety of SC'd and Turbo'd VQ's, and having driven or worked on a couple of 2JZ/RB swapped Z33's and G35's - short of 900+whp goals, the juice is simply not worth the squeeze to swap to an RB or JZ given how well supported the VQ is these days.
The VQ also has some very real advantages over a 2JZ.. yeah that sounds weird.. but the stock VQ heads are fantastic and flow better than most hogged out 2JZ heads ever could. You're also starting with 3.5L of displacement putting you at spool and response better than a 3.4L 2JZ stroker only with even better low end/midrange thanks to the native VVL in the VQ.
The 2JZ also adds some substantial weight to the nose of the car, as there's a lot more block material in an I6 configuration and in the 2JZ's case its nice thick iron.

I understand you've already bought an engine and a lot of parts, but if your existing 350Z has a solid, healthy VQ you can do a very simple rods/pistons swap in that and have an engine happily capable of 600-650whp on the stock sleeves.

There's a lot of options for SC and turbo setups available native to the Z33/VQ, and a simple UpRev remap of your stock ECU does 95% of what a modern standalone can support and with much more overall simplicity. Hell, for your base 400whp you can do that on a Vortech V1 SC with the stock engine with injectors and a tune.

Having seen entirely too many of these sorts of swaps snowball beyond their budgets, and go nowhere for years before being parted out - I'd encourage you to really 'chew on your thoughts' and truly decide what you want here.
Because the simplest, easiest, cheapest, and best supported path to your HP goals is to stay VQ and simply build that block. Turbo kit/intercooler of choice, an UpRev tune, bigger injectors+fuel pump, and a good clutch and off you go. It's fairly easy to make ~500-550whp on most turbo setups with pump premium once a built engine is in the mix.

If you truly need a 2JZ in a 350Z because:reasons, and you're willing to spend more money to have a more complicated car with more issues and problems and weirdness and collective headaches for the sake of the exhaust note, well, dive in!
But do that knowing in advance that you'd be much off better financially and time-wise by buying a running JZ swapped MK3 Supra or SC300 even with the current elevated prices.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Valid points. Healthy VQ is a questionable statement that I'm not sure I can confirm. VQs are notorious for burning oil and this one is not an exception. Given it has it's issues. It's been with me from 80k to now pushing 203k miles. I get that these motors are held to a standard of being great engines and a reliable platform. The line of thought of just buying another VQ, building it while driving the current one into the ground has crossed my mind. Personally, I haven't seen one either in person or on the net that as really caught my eye and ear.

So it's coming out at some point either way. That being said, I think you caught me with my pants down on the " for the sake of the exhaust note " as I'm not to keen on how VQ's sound. Actually, it's weird... it sounds pretty good right now with the Nismo exhaust, but doesn't hold a candle to the 2jz. Haven't been able to pin down an aftermarket exhaust that is louder but doesn't drone out or sound like a trumpet when hitting higher rpms.

I'm not against pushing passed that 600hp mark tbh. 900+ works for me too. I just figured it would be cheaper to tone it down a bit. Idk, you've definitely hit a chord that makes me want to mull it over.

More research I guess. I had planned on getting a truck as an alternative daily for when the build commences as well.

As the only thing that I've really spent money on for this build is the block, I could technically just build the internals and sell the long block for a profit hopefully. Certainly something of a personal challenge/desire/hobby to build a street monster. I'd have to say there certainly isn't any 2jz swapped cars around me that I know in this area. So a certain cool factor would be there if I could manage it.

I appreciate the food for thought.
 

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I'm glad to help in any small way I can 🍺

One final piece of advice - fuck being 'unique' or doing something that 'stands out from the crowd'. You're trying to build a car to drive, not brag about on the internet while it sits as piles of parts in your garage. Sure, running and well executed 'unique' builds are interesting and fun, but kudos in a parking lot aren't shit compared to fearless, smile-on-your-face driving a reliable well-sorted setup that's proven.

Given that you're still driving the 350Z as a daily; If you wanted to follow through on a build like this, I'd find an SC300 or SC400 and proceed with a 2JZ build in that instead. You'll be able to enjoy the Z as you finish it and it'll be much easier to complete the build given the 2JZ-native configuration of the Lexus SC.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't really even go to meets or parking lots, and bragging on the internet.. ha I'm ded. 80% of the ppl I know would have no idea what the 2jz is anyways.

You are right, Im trying to build a car to drive, and slay some unsuspecting bought not built cars that think they are hot shit if and when they step up. And I'm here posting/lurking for information mostly.
 

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I had a G37 for several years with all the bolt-ons and a tune, made 331whp and was pretty fun for an NA car but not fun enough so, I feel your desire to make some changes. I contemplated swapping motors as well and man, it adds up quickly. You are FAR better off throwing rods and pistons in the VQ and putting together a rear mounted turbo setup.

FYI, I'm currently turbo'ing an NA Supra, a car that already came with the 2JZ obviously, and I'm nearing $8-9k for maybe 500whp. Assuming you buy quality parts, it'll be AT LEAST that for you too, the little things add up quickly. If I were you, I'd sell that motor and just build what you have. I commend you for starting a project and doing research, this is just another part of the build and sometimes, you just gotta scrap an idea and go another route.

If you decide to swap the 2JZ in the 350z anyway, keep this post updated and I'll help along the way as much as I can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Everybody: Don't do it, don't do it!
Me: Imma do it, hold my beer

:ROFLMAO:


Either way, I know I'm going to break this motor down and have the head machined, and replace the internals and we'll see how that goes. I might even buy a VQ block and build that too.

Time really isn't the issue if I get the truck. So we can take it in baby steps until I'm striding down the highway in a wake of boost noises as I break the sound barrier... >.> I mean uhhh lol

Appreciate the words and offer to help Kris.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Picking through options for this custom wiring harness, I wanted to drop this and see if anyone can help out on the options noted below that I'm not sure on.

I've heard someone got a custom wiring harness from a different place(tweakperformance i believe), so if there is a better option I'm all ears

2JZGTE / 2JZGE VVTi Wiring Harness for 350Z - CANBUS PRO SERIES
link in the first post

AEM Infinity 8h [30-7108] (+$250)
AEM Infinity 8h [30-7108] ($1492.00)
USDM & JDM Non-Turbo 2JZGE VVTi Engine
Injector Dynamics ID1000/725/850/1300/EV14
2-Wire Idle Valve (Driftmotion Or Link)
350Z CD009 6-Speed (+$45)
Make My Gauge Work (+$25)
Always A Manual (Factory 350z Manual Trans)
Add Air Conditioning Wiring (+$150)
Add Universal 5-Point Grounding Kit (+$45)




Options I'm not sure on:

Air Fuel Metering Options: *

OEM 5-Pin 2JZ VVTi MAFS

Using Internal MAP Sensor Built Into ECU Plus IAT Sensor In Intake - Enter IAT Sensor Details Below

Using External MAP Sensor Plus IAT Sensor - BOTH Installed In Intake - Enter MAP & IAT Sensor Details Below
Enter MAP / IAT Sensor Brand, Model & Part Number Details Here (Optional):

Aftermarket Intake Manifold >> Choose Throttle Option [D] [E] Or [F]?
--------------
Throttle Body Option: *

[D] Aftermarket Throttle Body With OEM VVTi TPS

[E] Nissan / Infinity Q45 Throttle Body And TPS


[F] Aftermarket Throttle Body With Mustang TPS

*[G] Custom Drive By Wire Setup (VQ, Bosch, Toyota Etc.) (+$150) ?
Please Add Notes In Box Below
2004 Nissan 350z

^if I do this, then I dont need anything above?
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Ignition/Coilpack Options (Smart Coils = Sequential, No Ignitor Chip): *

I think for these one of the three below is the move?

Convert To GM LQ9 Smart Coils - Harness ONLY (+$149)
^I believe ive read most ppl aare on the look out for these

Convert To Toyota 1ZZ Smart Coils Harness ONLY (+$149)

Convert To AEM HO Smart Coils - Harness ONLY (+$249)
---------------------------------
Last option Im struggling with the OxygenSensor/WB*:

Im guessing it would be one of these considering the ECU choice of AEM Infinity 8h

AEM UEGO, Innovate LM1 Or Other WB Gauge Kit

Buy AEM X UEGO WB Gauge Kit W/Sensor (+$185.73)
 

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Skip the MAFS entirely, that's just silly to use on a standalone. I'd go with the external MAP and IAT option, GM sensors are used here very commonly.

I'd use a custom front-facing intake manifold, but keep the 350Z's DBW throttle pedal and use a DBW throttle body that works with your choice of front-facing intake manifold. The stock 350Z throttle body would hypothetically work but it's pretty small for a turbo engine with your power goals.
You should be able to easily run a bigger Bosch GM DBW throttle body using the 350Z's pedal since you'll be on a standalone but I'd do some 350Z specific research there.
You just really don't want to run a throttle cable in the 350Z, it's a pain in the ass that just isn't needed and made everything worse on the 350Z swaps I've worked on.

The 1ZZ-FE coils work great. If you're serious about pushing 900-1000+whp on E85 then you'll need to upgrade from there but I wouldn't sweat it during the initial build. You could also run the stock 2JZ-GE wastespark coil packs to ~800whp without any fuss if that's simpler/easier/cheaper for you.

For the wideband, Stick with the AEM UEGO if you're running an AEM ECU. It all works together really well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Noted.

Also looking into the throttle body suggestion. Looks good to me. I guess I would need to look into the standalone, and the 350z CANbus system. As they have Bosch as a printed option in that section I would think this should be no issue.

Which also looking into that I was able to find the wideband/IAT and MAP options that I think are what I need.

Current shopping list:

 

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Good luck to you ! I say do what you want. Just do it right. Wreckless is a wealth of info. I'd take his knowledge as bible.
I have a wiring specialties harness in my Supra. They were cheaper than tweak and had my harness here in a week. No problems from it in over two years.

Keep us informed on your build.

B
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Surprised there isnt a "kit" like sikky has for the lsx swap. That's my issue, I dont 100% know all the little things I need.

Either way the 2jz is going to be built, but lsx is looking might tempting. So far though the cost is looking relatively similar in price if done with the sikky package. And even then Id want to build the engine so I honest dont think the price is going to be that far off.

---------

That being said.

My engine lift is down, seems like a pressure issue with the hydraulic.

I went to take the crankbolt off yesterday, I snapped a 3/8ths adapter off with the breaker bar, and also pretty sure this breaker bar is a POS as I thought it was going to snap while trying to put all my weight on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Head came off today. Fucked up and cracked a piece off of the cam bearing piece that's right behind the VVTI cam gear, where you find those 2x 5mm alan bolts I believe it was. Field service manual calls them "No.3 Camshaft Bearing Cap ". There is a vvti 2jzge in the junkyard near me, might go remove that one to replace if I can't find one on ebay or something.

Should be able to get to the bottom end tomorrow and off to the machine shop Monday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Closer look at what was seen when the head came off. Once the pistons come out we'll see what the machine shop has cut out for them. Looks like slight oxidation on the walls. Hoping .010 to .020 will fix this.

Ordered some Manley H-Tuff rods part number: 15027-6, apparently rated for 1000hp, still looking at pistons.
 

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Head came off today. Fucked up and cracked a piece off of the cam bearing piece that's right behind the VVTI cam gear, where you find those 2x 5mm alan bolts I believe it was. Field service manual calls them "No.3 Camshaft Bearing Cap ". There is a vvti 2jzge in the junkyard near me, might go remove that one to replace if I can't find one on ebay or something.

Should be able to get to the bottom end tomorrow and off to the machine shop Monday.
Dude, that sucks! Even if you get another cam cap from another engine, they're all line-bored to match that specific head, so you'll need to have the machine shop line bore that cap to match the rest of them.

Good news is I'm seeing nothing unusual or off about any of the pics you posted, looks like a typical higher mile GE motor. 🍺
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
In other news. Just about completely broken down the bottom end. I rounded the carbon build up at the top of the cylinder walls with a brillo pad to help the pistons come out with out to much fuss, hoping that wasn't a big deal considering I will bore it .010 to .020.

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Dude, that sucks! Even if you get another cam cap from another engine, they're all line-bored to match that specific head, so you'll need to have the machine shop line bore that cap to match the rest of them.
Can you shed some light on this?

Where/what needs to be line bored, I guess maybe a better question is what is a line bore, sounds like channeling something for that piece?

All I see that needs to line up is those grooves? Guessing they are like a finger print for the head and that piece?

Kinda figures I'd mess up on head with it being the only thing worth really keepings aside from the bottom end housing and crank 😓

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A line bore is basically a horizontal boring procedure - imagine over-boring a cylinder, only horizontally. The cam caps all have to make a perfect circle when assembled to the head in order for the camshaft to be properly stabilized and lubricated. This is something that is precise to the thousanths of an inch, and no two cylinder heads can exchange cam caps because of this. If you need to replace a cam cap (or cam saddle, as they're sometimes called) a shop needs to mill a slight amount of material off the flat-side surface that physically bolts to the head, and then they need to re-cut that half-circle cam bearing surface in the cam cap to match the half-circle of the cylinder head.
The same procedure is common when setting up a 2JZ block for billet main caps - the main caps need to be line-bored to match the crank in the same way.

It's complicated, and expensive.

Now, the good news is that since you damaged that cap only at those small little baby hex bolt loops - I think you can repair your existing cam cap!
You'll need to have those bolt loops welded/repaired on that end of the cam cap, or otherwise set up so those little bolts have a full engagement surface on the cam cap when re-torqued in place. But that's definitely repairable without needing to source another cap!
 
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