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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Background: 1JZ swap into 95 Lexus GS300. Car has 153k miles on it, only about 1200 since swap. Local shop I work with did the swap last year, and I bought the car in March.

Last week, on the way to get 2jz cams in fact, the battery light came on, then went off. Did this twice more in about 3 miles. Tech did the swap, dynoed and test drove. No light. I drove it back to my shop (about 15 miles) no light. About 2 days later, light stayed on after start, and for about 5 minutes of running, then went out. I decided to go ahead and replace the alternator.

Put in rebuilt alt from Parts America. It was a stock 95 GS300 alternator, with the longer, rectangular plug, fwiw. About two days later, light came on while stopped, but went out when I drove off. Next 60 miles or so, no light. I also wired in a quick volt meter, so I could see what was going on. Voltage ran between 12.7 at idle, and 14 at cruise.

Tonight on the way home, I got on it pretty good about 2 miles from my house. Light came on, and stayed on. Voltage down to about 11.5. I've tried restarting it a couple of times, but still no alternator. Checked voltage on plug, and all is good. Pulled and reseated plug...still no alternator.

New battery, checked all cables.

I guess I could have gotten a bad rebuild, but that would be a little strange. I'm wondering about some sort of spike killing the regulators. Another reason I am considering this has to do with my tach...

Apparently the GS300 tach won't read the signal from the 1J ignitor. So, the tech that did the swap (really sharp guy) put a diode inline with the black wire coming out of the ignitor, spliced in the GS factory tach lead, and added a capacitor to ground (filters out noise, or something.) Anyway, about 3 weeks ago, I was sitting at idle when the car just died. It restarted, but I had no tach. Found the diode and cap both blown. Since then, I've just left the wire coming off of the ignitor open (insulated, of course), and lived with no tach. Tech didn't seem to see any problem with this. Interestingly enough, he has put the same circuit in several 1J swaps, with basically no problems. Except, the day after mine blew, another one did as well, also stalling the engine.

This 'spike' was a couple weeks before my first alt went out, and it is still not connected, so it doesn't seem like part of the problem. I also haven't had any problems with anything else electrical. Thought it was worth mentioning, though.

One more thing worth mentioning is that right before the first one died, I started getting whine in my stereo (custom system...DVD player, amps, etc.), but it was intermittent. I started getting the same thing right before the batt light came on the first time with this alternator, as well. I've been doing stereo's for quite some time, and have seen alternators start to whine right before they give out, so that sort of fits.

Long story as short as possible...is there anything else I should be looking at, or did I just get a second weak alternator. I've seen that happen before, as well, so its certainly not out of the question.

Thanks,

Toby
 

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my buddy went through 4 alternator's before he found that one of his cables where it was spliced in wasn't a good connection, and all the feedback was going into the alternator and cooking it.
 

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i'm on my 3rd rebuilt alternator.so far this one has held up nicely(about 2000 mile's with many trips to redline).the first one had something come loose inside it after a 6500rpm run up to 50mph.it still charged,but sounded like a bubble gum machine.the 2nd charged for like a few day's.took off hard reving the car and all the light's in the dash came on when i let off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I pulled it out, and another reman is on its way...lets hear it for lifetime warranties. When I pulled this one, a little piece of sleeve insulation fell out, so I'm guessing one of the windings broke inside. That can be the disadvantage of remans...they often only fix what is clearly broken.

Toby
 
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