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300 RWHP starting with a stock MK3 turbo for 3000.00 What do you think?

2.1K views 30 replies 14 participants last post by  90Legend  
#1 · (Edited)
Hey all,

Relatively new Supra owner here, though I admired the car from afar, until I was finally able to buy it from a family member.

I was not planning on building the car but you guys are infectious.

I don’t have a lot of cash to spend and plan on saving during the winter.

I see that many of you have spent tons of cash but it seems to me that for a reasonable amount, you should be able to up the stock HP quite a bit and still have a reliable daily driver (April through November for me anyway).

This is starting with a good running car with no apparent problems. Although, I am paranoid in a major way about the HG, thanks to all of you. I have never checked the oil so much in my life.

I am thinking of going preemptive on the HG prior to any other mods. I will note that cost in the total as well.

Here is how I am thinking I might spend the money if I can find it.

Air box-Stock but with a mod I found somewhere (I have the link saved but have not looked that hard yet as I save lots of links) and K&N drop in.
40.00

DP- BIC or similar- I probably won’t buy stainless since the car won’t see any salt and because of the fact that I have no money (damn kids always want to eat or have clothes or something).
300.00

Test pipe-This is Michigan and if need be, my folks live up north and the car could be registered there, if we get emissions tests again.
60.00
Quick note-I’m not looking to kill the environment but if my buddy’s 67 Firebird doesn’t have to pass, why should the Supra. I will not be disabling any of the emissions equipment on the engine at all, and can always buy the 100.00 cat if needed.

Cat Back-Lots to choose from, call it
700.00

Lexis AFM-I know, the old way, but cost effective, right?
175.00

Injectors-550CC
500.00
Upgraded CT-26 from PT, not too radical, the basic Stage 1. Figure 150.00 for a good core and 500.00 for the upgrade. (I plan on keeping my original for a few reasons, which I will address in another post).
650.00

BOV and some sort of boost controller (manual would be fine). I don’t need anything fancy just something that works when needed, so I don’t harm my engine from overboost.
I am thinking the maximum boost I would like to run is about 12 psi. I want more power but don’t want to F up my engine.
This is going to be a DD.
200.00

Greddy overboost relief value. The post on SM made sense to me.
120.00

It would seem to me that this would be an effective set up and probably yield close to 100 RWHP. That is based on a barely educated guess from all the reading on the forums that I have done.

Variables
I have not quite figured out if these items are required (or just desired) with the above set up.
Better fuel pump
Fuel pressure regulator
400.00
That is my estimate but will be included separately as Fuel.

Preemptive HG stuff- HG, ARP bolts and stuff,
300.00
Could be separate for some but will be done if I proceed. Once again this is based on not having a blown HG when it is done, so I think (hope) a lot of the machine work should be able to be avoided.

Anyway here is the total I came up with.
40.00 Air box
300.00 DP- BIC or similar
60.00 Test pipe
700.00 Cat Back
175.00 Lexis AFM
500.00 Injectors-550CC
650.00 Upgraded CT-26 from PT, not too radical, the basic Stage 1
200.00 BOV and some sort of boost controller
120.00 Greddy overboost relief value
300.00 Preemptive HG stuff

3045.00
Add in the fuel stuff if needed and your at 3500.00.

I did not add any miscellanies money in, but some of the items listed can definitely be purchased for less.
If there were Misc. money, I would be replacing clamps and hoses (I will be) that look the slightest bit suspect. I usually try to factor in about 10% for other project I have done, though, I have never put money into a car before.

But wait, there’s more, being the cheap and poor bastard that I am, I am thinking that with a plan I can accomplish this for less.

I think the numbers quoted above are reasonable for the average prices we see at the places that sell our stuff.

Anyway, I guess I’m looking for 2 things:

What items have I missed, that are mandatory for a project of this type?
My feeling on gauges is that with the mild boost setting, preemptive HG work, and BOV with relief value, if you want to double check your stock ones you can get a temp and a boost for 100.00 somewhere.
Add it in if you want.

Is it good for around 100RWHP? If not what’s your guess?

More to come (the plan)

Dan
 
#2 ·
HOLY FUCK SON! long ass post!
 
#5 ·
hm....you could definatly cut that cost by about $450 by just getting a muffler shop to make you a 3" catback.
last time i checked 550's are around $320 on ebay but you would have to pay shipping so mayeb around $350 at most!

thats around $400 you can save right there.
 
#6 ·
well just to let you know, you dont need the lex, or 550's if you plan on running 12 psi. but the upgrade from pt is a good idea, it's like 30 hp more, at the same psi.
 
#7 ·
90Legend said:
Hey all,

Is it good for around 100RWHP? If not what’s your guess?



Dan
With a 255LPH (walbro) fuel pump and AFPR your setup is good for MUCH more than 100RWHP. People have been known to have over 400RWHP with very similar setups.

Good luck with your project!
 
#8 ·
90Legend said:
BOV and some sort of boost controller (manual would be fine). I don’t need anything fancy just something that works when needed, so I don’t harm my engine from overboost.
I am thinking the maximum boost I would like to run is about 12 psi. I want more power but don’t want to F up my engine.
This is going to be a DD.
200.00

Greddy overboost relief value. The post on SM made sense to me.
120.00


Anyway here is the total I came up with.
40.00 Air box
300.00 DP- BIC or similar
60.00 Test pipe
700.00 Cat Back
175.00 Lexis AFM
500.00 Injectors-550CC
650.00 Upgraded CT-26 from PT, not too radical, the basic Stage 1
200.00 BOV and some sort of boost controller
120.00 Greddy overboost relief value
300.00 Preemptive HG stuff

3045.00
Add in the fuel stuff if needed and your at 3500.00.

First thing, If you dont want to overboost and risk anything, scratch the overboost valve and do it right. GET AN ELECTRONIC BOOST CONTROLLER AND GOOD BOV!!!!!!

Exhaust should be at least HALF that price for a turbo back if you find a shop to do mandrel bends and buy a muffler for cheap.

With my sleepy math and bad pricing i came up with around $2900 and thats just off the price list at the end of your post. Let me know if any of you guys think im wrong.

Good Luck
"D"
 
#10 · (Edited)
sorry but headgasket work and prep is not gonna cost you $300. what are you smoking crack?

the head rebuild will cost you $300-400 alone. add $100-$200 for the head rebuild gasket kit. second how do you plan to get the block surfaced with it still in the engine bay? i hope you dont plan on putting on a mhg without prepping the block.
 
#11 ·
The Plan

I wrote this after posting the first one. I had not read any responses when this was written. I knew you would be dissapointed if the sequel did not happen.

Dan

Bottom line is that I don’t have 3000.00.

I have between now and April to get all this stuff. Between now and April here is what could happen.


40.00 Air box-Not buying a used Air Filter.
Savings 0.00

300.00 DP- BIC or similar- Buy one used on the forums for 200.00. Someone will want money and have an uninstalled one, or one on a car that will not be running for a while.
Savings-100.00

60.00 Test pipe-See below

700.00 Cat back-Dude by 8 mile and Gratiot hooks me up from DP back for about 300.00. The exhaust will be high on functionality and low on esthetics.
Savings-460.00

175.00 Lexis AFM-Maybe 150.00 or so somewhere.
Savings-25.00

500.00 Injectors-550CC-Saw new RC’s for 420.00 shipped.
Savings-80.00

650.00 Upgraded CT-26 from PT, not too radical, the basic Stage 1-Buying an upgraded CT-26 turbo from somebody on the forums for 400.00. Then, hoping and praying to the god of your choice, that it was only used at high boost 3 times, they are only selling it to get something better, and they really wished they could keep it as it’s been the best upgraded turbo they ever had.
Another reason I am keeping my original. I don’t want to have downtime or be forced to pay way too much for a turbo because I need (or want) one today.
Savings-250.00

200.00 BOV and some sort of boost controller-No frills but effective, 100.00 easy.
Savings-100.00

120.00 Greddy overboost relief value-I am sold on the concept, someone save me some money here, please.
Savings-0.00

300.00 Preemptive HG stuff-See above.
Savings-0.00

Total savings-1015.00

Mod cost-2030.00 plus misc. (I took most of the cushion out that time) so call it 2300.00.
Once again no labor cost involved here (numbers are for material only) and add 400.00 for the Fuel stuff if it is needed.

Anyway, that was the plan long awaited by no one. I think that will be my goal along with buying few exterior pieces (clear turn signals, 89+ mirrors), and one new door panel.

It works for me on paper, but I am sure it is full of holes.

Let me know what you think, and correct my errors.

Dan
 
#12 ·
Re: Re: 300 RWHP starting with a stock MK3 turbo for 3000.00 What do you think?

Supra87T said:
First thing, If you dont want to overboost and risk anything, scratch the overboost valve and do it right. GET AN ELECTRONIC BOOST CONTROLLER AND GOOD BOV!!!!!!

Exhaust should be at least HALF that price for a turbo back if you find a shop to do mandrel bends and buy a muffler for cheap.

With my sleepy math and bad pricing i came up with around $2900 and thats just off the price list at the end of your post. Let me know if any of you guys think im wrong.

Good Luck
"D"
I kind of figured with 2 manual values set to release at a certain psi, for both to fail, the odds would be high. I thought I was safe there.
Correct me if I'm wrong.

Dan
 
#13 ·
njsupramk3t said:
sorry but headgasket work and prep is not gonna cost you $300. what are you smoking crack?

the head rebuild will cost you $300-400 alone. add $100-$200 for the head rebuild gasket kit. second how do you plan to get the block surfaced with it still in the engine bay? i hope you dont plan on putting on a mhg without prepping the block.
I was under the impression that if you’re not blown to start with, all that work was not necessary to replace the HG properly.
These are some of the things I am trying to find out.

Dan
 
#14 ·
I don't know about the parts, but I do know that you should plan for things to happen that shouldnt. Like little parts that you're going to have to buy because they just up and break on you. I had plans on saving money to sell my NA and buy a turbo, or do a swap, but over this summer I've been putting more and more money into the car to get it back in shape (power steering lines, all shocks, plugs and wires, fan shroud, etc.). All the little things add up VERY quick. But all the more power to ya if you can do it.

Then again you could start out with a supra in VERY nice condition, that always helps.
 
#15 ·
Fozbo said:
I don't know about the parts, but I do know that you should plan for things to happen that shouldnt. Like little parts that you're going to have to buy because they just up and break on you. I had plans on saving money to sell my NA and buy a turbo, or do a swap, but over this summer I've been putting more and more money into the car to get it back in shape (power steering lines, all shocks, plugs and wires, fan shroud, etc.). All the little things add up VERY quick. But all the more power to ya if you can do it.

Then again you could start out with a supra in VERY nice condition, that always helps.
I got lucky in that respect. I got it in May. I am into it for 5000.00( purchase price plus stuff it needed) and some people I know think I am crazy for paying 5000.00 for a 87 Toyota. Not all of them mind you, but you don't know how many times I heard" so what kind of subaru is that"? SUPRA you asshole, SUPRA.
Anyway, I'm going to try to make it happen.
Dan
Supra danm it Supra
 
#16 ·
When you start working on the car you will find lots of little things that need fixing that you never account for. Will you be doing this yourself or paying someone to install it all??? Buy a Saab CBV (compressor bypass valve) there about $40 and are good for the boost you will be running. Buy a second hand EBC (electronic boost controller) for about $200 no need for the overboost valve. You could do with some sort of fuel computer to lean it out at the top end and give you some more power. Not really any need for the upgraded turbo if your only running 12 psi. If your only going to be running that sort of boost you could get away with using a stock toyota head gasket with arp studs which will save you some money.
 
#18 ·
Buttmunch said:
When you start working on the car you will find lots of little things that need fixing that you never account for. Will you be doing this yourself or paying someone to install it all??? Buy a Saab CBV (compressor bypass valve) there about $40 and are good for the boost you will be running. Buy a second hand EBC (electronic boost controller) for about $200 no need for the overboost valve. You could do with some sort of fuel computer to lean it out at the top end and give you some more power. Not really any need for the upgraded turbo if your only running 12 psi. If your only going to be running that sort of boost you could get away with using a stock toyota head gasket with arp studs which will save you some money.
I have friends that are mechanically inclined. I have been reading the TSRM.
For the most part I won’t have to pay for much labor. I figure Dr.J might be around to help on the hard stuff and that cost was in my misc. amount (I know Adam, it was not that much).
I thought that an upgraded turbo gave better performance than the stock one at the same boost, or maybe it boosted faster or something.

I was planning on going non-metal on the HG unless circumstances dictated other wise.

Thanks for the input.

Dan
 
G
#21 ·
Here's my setup and costs from stock to 300rwhp estimate.

Blitz DD BOV - $275 (stock one might even work)
Apex'i Power Intake - $125
BIC Divorced DP - $350
RT 3" Test Pipe - $60
3" Aluminum custom catback - $100
Megan Racing 3" CF Muffler - $150
Drjonez MBC to 14 psi - $25
Spec Stage 3 Clutch - $480

Total: $1565

On a cold day I think I could make 300rwhp, the motor is running very strong.
 
#22 ·
Lightning said:
Here's my setup and costs from stock to 300rwhp estimate.

Blitz DD BOV - $275 (stock one might even work)
Apex'i Power Intake - $125
BIC Divorced DP - $350
RT 3" Test Pipe - $60
3" Aluminum custom catback - $100
Megan Racing 3" CF Muffler - $150
Drjonez MBC to 14 psi - $25
Spec Stage 3 Clutch - $480

Total: $1565

On a cold day I think I could make 300rwhp, the motor is running very strong.
According to anothere thread, with less boost than your running (11psi) they are getting 283rwhp with the BIC divorced down pipe 3" cat back and intake. So you should be good for 300rwhp
 
#23 ·
90Legend said:

I thought that an upgraded turbo gave better performance than the stock one at the same boost, or maybe it boosted faster or something.
Dan
It will give better performacne at the same boost because of higher flow, but for your aspirations of 300rwhp it is not needed and will save you $650.
 
#24 ·
Yeah, skip the turbo upgrade, lex afm, and injectors if you're only running at 12 psi.

For 300 HP I'd say:

BIC DDP
Custom 3" catback
Custom 2" bends to replace the kinks in your IC hoses
Shimmed wastegate
Autometer boost gauge

This will get you close to, if not past, 300 hp. Mods beyond this have diminishing returns, as 12 psi is an expensive threshold.

I wouldn't mess with the head gasket except to retorque the head bolts. Cheaper insurance: radiator cap, thermostat, good coolant hoses.

I see you're in SCS. I live in Wateford, work in Livonia, go to church in SCS, and will be moving to Warren. I hope to run into you. I'm the one in the maroon targa with Ford rims.