Well, the turbo cars came with 80 amp alternators so, 70 would be a downgrade.

 

Really......mmmm Ok then, they were trying to tell me that a 70AMP model would be fine......bastard

 

Yea, the turbo model calls for the 80 AMP, but I got the 70 AMP because it was HALF THE PRICE. $75 vs $150, fuck it.

 

Yeah Ok, but given that our cars should definatley NOT be drawing more then 30amps at a time.....why would we need an 80Amp Alternator let alone a 70Amp. The auto electrician I am purchasing the alternator off told me that the 80Amp Alternator was only ever used on the Toyota TRD race version, which although I truly dont believe I can understand......you would have to run a hell of alot of accessories to stress the 70amp model.

What disadvanatages would I notice If I did indeed get the 70Amp model.....auto elect said he cant even get the 80Amp model.

Thans for the replies.

 

70 and 80 amps are the peak outputs of the alternators. At idle, output will be significantly less since the alternator is not tuning as quickly as it needs to for peak output.

At idle with the headlights, defroster on hi, auxiliary cooling fans running, A/C compressor clutch engaged, windsield wipers running on low, and rear defroster running you may be quite surprised at how much current is drawn. It is not too difficult to draw more than the alternator can put out at idle.

There isn't a real big difference in 10 amps more output but, Toyota thought it was nessicary. Maybe because of the heated oxygen sensor on the turbo models. Heh.

I would get my alternator somewhere else Fabbz, even if you go with the N/A one, just on priciple. The guy you are dealing with doesn't seem too bright. Then again, maybe Toyota spec'd the alternators differently for Australia and all MK3s there came with 70 amp ones. :scratch:

 

Toyota TRD Race Version???
cmon now

 

70 and 80 amps are the peak outputs of the alternators. At idle, output will be significantly less since the alternator is not tuning as quickly as it needs to for peak output.

At idle with the headlights, defroster on hi, auxiliary cooling fans running, A/C compressor clutch engaged, windsield wipers running on low, and rear defroster running you may be quite surprised at how much current is drawn. It is not too difficult to draw more than the alternator can put out at idle.

There isn't a real big difference in 10 amps more output but, Toyota thought it was nessicary. Maybe because of the heated oxygen sensor on the turbo models. Heh.

I would get my alternator somewhere else Fabbz, even if you go with the N/A one, just on priciple. The guy you are dealing with doesn't seem too bright. Then again, maybe Toyota spec'd the alternators differently for Australia and all MK3s there came with 70 amp ones. :scratch:

Thankyou for an Intelligent answer.......I admire your thinking process, although I am quite aware that the output from the alternator will be much higher with everything running.

The only reason why I am going for the 70Amp alternator as apposed to the 80amp is because they cant even source the 80Amp model. I went to Toyota Direct and they say that both the 70Amp and 80Amp factory model has been disconinued. Is there anyway that I can check to see if mine is currently an 80Amp or a 70Amp?