Supra Forums banner

21 - 24 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,410 Posts
Looks much better.

I'll bring it up again - what's up with that lower radiator hose connection? That can't be the correct hose. That is a ticking time bomb, never have seen a hose stretched quite like that. Where is the factory squeeze-on clamp?

Al
 

·
From the land down under
Joined
·
4,091 Posts
Agree that the lower radiator hose looks to be a poor fitting replacement, and surely it wont be happy being pulled tightly over the water neck like that.

The oil drain will work far better though :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,154 Posts
I agree that the drain looks to be a better design now. As far as reaching your bolt on your turbine housing, clock that where you need it before installing your turbo drain connection. That should be the first thing you set, if memory serves.

I had a similar issue with my old Comp setup. Unless you are talking about the forward-inside bolt on the turbine housing to manifold flange? In which case, you should be using studs anyway, if possible. Install that one first, you'll need to do so AS you're putting the turbo into place. It is a bit awkward, and definitely a pain in the ass, but you'll figure it out.

The reason I recommend studs? Even with 10.9 hardware (good choice, by the way), those bolts get HOT. I had one literally break off in the manifold flange a few years back, what a nightmare to fix. A stud, you put in there, and it remains undisturbed for a nice, long time. Bolts in exhaust manifold flanges tend to get a bit, shall we say, brittle, with time. Nothing good comes from that situation.

Also, not trying to be pedantic here, but in an earlier post you mentioned that you had 1/2" pipe that was ~5mm larger than a -10 AN? Something's not adding up here. A -10 AN should be 5/8" ID, although it is possible that you have a fitting end that's meant to connect to a -10 perhaps, with a smaller ID? I've seen that occasionally with Caterpillar fittings.

Good luck, and keep us posted when you have news! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
I appreciate everyone’s help and constructive feedback. Regarding your questions, ask and you shall receive 🙂:

1. 75 degree angle coolant pipe from Summit Racing was used so I would not disturb the oem rubber coolant hose bends. I cut off the tip of thermostat housing hose and pushed it in farther onto the housing.
251927


2. I was able to tighten that lower turbine bolt (closer to driver’s side) by grinding the heck out of this cheap aluminum 13mm Pittsburgh wrench (barely fit):
251928

So, now my old school dual ball bearing PT6776RS turbo is back on 👍.

3. I cut out a section of that aluminum welded oil return flanged drain pipe and re-welded it. So, now it’s 50 degree angle with clearance between compressor housing elbow and headers. (Slightly wider angle than the previous 45 degree fitting combo and more downward slope)
251929

251930

251931


4. I just put calipers on the inside of this schedule 40 aluminum oil return-flange pipe and it’s actually 2mm wider than the ID of a -10an fitting.

5. There is only that one bolt style fastener on the T4 flange. The rest are studs with nuts + lock washers. Something happened with this stud, hence the switch to the Bolt. But, thank you for the heads up...I will get some high grade studs and nuts when I can.

I just need this car to survive a 1,000 mile road trip in vacuum (no boost), so hopefully that grade 10.9 bolt will survive a non-boosted road trip. 👍
 
21 - 24 of 24 Posts
Top