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Discussion Starter #1
Would replacing the cams on a 7mge motor make any difference in power? I’ve heard from many people I have asked that larger cams are worth the investment , but there isn’t much information that can be found on the forums about it. I’m trying to keep my engine naturally aspirated and reaching about 270hp, would purchase of cams be a good step in that direction?
 

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Canada, Eh?
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Spending any money on an 7mge is not worth it, unless its to add a turbo. You will spend way too much money to try to make 270 in NA form, whereas a stock turbo with basic mods will do that all day. For perspective, my stock turbo, stock injector 7mgte did 320rwhp, with not a huge investment of money.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Spending any money on an 7mge is not worth it, unless its to add a turbo. You will spend way too much money to try to make 270 in NA form, whereas a stock turbo with basic mods will do that all day. For perspective, my stock turbo, stock injector 7mgte did 320rwhp, with not a huge investment of money.
Im sure there is already a forum post about this, but would it be cost effective to do a NA-T over a 7M-GTE swap?
 

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Cams alone will hardly do anything.
Lots of work, money, and years of knowledge can.
Cams only work with supporting mods, higher compression, larger valves, larger intake and exhaust, and engine management.
Most of which is way more expensive than just good cams (which doesn't include the crap from BC).
And building a turbo off a GE base, with it's undersized oil pump, and stock pistons is just a blow-up waiting to happen.

Just go buy a JZ from an engine importer.

But if you have a surplus of cash, and are into sell abuse, and like pain, and emotional stress, then by all means, build a NA....

My 7MGE at the Texas Mile, watch the speedo...
7M NA 8500 rpm money pit
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Cams alone will hardly do anything.
Lots of work, money, and years of knowledge can.
Cams only work with supporting mods, higher compression, larger valves, larger intake and exhaust, and engine management.
Most of which is way more expensive than just good cams (which doesn't include the crap from BC).
And building a turbo off a GE base, with it's undersized oil pump, and stock pistons is just a blow-up waiting to happen.

Just go buy a JZ from an engine importer.

But if you have a surplus of cash, and are into sell abuse, and like pain, and emotional stress, then by all means, build a NA....

My 7MGE at the Texas Mile, watch the speedo...
7M NA 8500 rpm money pit
Thank you. Just what I was looking for!
 

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Registered
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6 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Cams alone will hardly do anything.
Lots of work, money, and years of knowledge can.
Cams only work with supporting mods, higher compression, larger valves, larger intake and exhaust, and engine management.
Most of which is way more expensive than just good cams (which doesn't include the crap from BC).
And building a turbo off a GE base, with it's undersized oil pump, and stock pistons is just a blow-up waiting to happen.

Just go buy a JZ from an engine importer.

But if you have a surplus of cash, and are into sell abuse, and like pain, and emotional stress, then by all means, build a NA....

My 7MGE at the Texas Mile, watch the speedo...
7M NA 8500 rpm money pit
Is there any chance you could list the mods done to achieve that? Exactly what I am trying to do, the video exceeded my expectations of how fast a N/A 7M could be.
 

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7M Fanatic
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3,266 Posts
Geeze, it's mostly all up here, but scattered through a bunch of different posts.
TRD 272 cams with 10.5-ish lift, and Comp Cams 975 valve springs under the Toda inner shim kit,
but the factory (1FZ ?) shim-less buckets would be better.

Head modified to Group-A combustion chambers to unmask the valves (looks like a 2JZ/RB26 type combustion chamber), 1mm oversize valves, with the port pockets bored larger.
Custom made pistons, since any of the TRD-Europe Cosworth pistons with about 3mm pop-up domes are long gone.
After market H-beam rods, with the fully counterweighted crank.
Lots of porting to the oil system, and a turbo oil pump (it's larger that the NA).
That vid was back when I was running a 70mm throttle, on a modified Supra NA manifold, and a bunch of piggy back black boxes, and a stock ECU that had the rev limiter bumped.
A good header....which hard to come by, unless you have someone custom build one.
The off the shelf ones all were for taking someone's money who just had to have a 'header'.
About the only ones still available are TRUST, and Pacesetter.
The Trust ones have a bad secondary collector, and the secondary tubes are on the small size.
The Pacesetter has even worse secondary collector....
I used the Pacesetter, but threw away the second half, and custom built it from there, going out to an 80mm tail pipe, but somewhere down the line, a full custom would be a better choice.

Set the cams to about 108 lobe centers, and play with them on the amount of retard.

An ATI crank dampener is a must.
I use a shit ton of coatings (ceramic, Teflon, and moly).
And an 8 qt pan is a must, but dry sump would be better.

To keep the engine alive at this type of RPM, you need about 85 psi oil pressure, that will quickly roast the stock front thrust bearing on the countershaft.
Technico out of Australia sells a very nice needle thrust bearing conversion that takes care of that issue.

You end up with an engine that has nearly no power under 4000 rpm, and really doesn't come alive until 6500.
So forget the factory 5-speeds, as the 4th to 5th upshift will knock you right out of the power band.
I was running a modified A340E, with the over drive from an IS300, that had a lower 4th ratio, and 4.56 rear gears.
Could never get anyone to build a true high stall converter, like in the 5000 range, so the auto is sitting in the corner of my garage, and I now adapting an HPI close ratio 6-speed.
6-speeds like the CD009 Nissan, or Tremec, or BMW all have a fatal flaw, they all have a too low first, and/or a too tall of 6th gear ratio. In other words they are meant so normal people can crawl through grocery store parking lots, or to comply with emission standards when running down the highway at 65mph.

I have a 7lb flywheel with a Tilton twin 7.25" clutch to tie the engine to the trans, and will be custom ordering a carbon fiber driveshaft here soon.

It's all a matter of how far down the into money pit you want to go...
 

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Registered
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6 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Geeze, it's mostly all up here, but scattered through a bunch of different posts.
TRD 272 cams with 10.5-ish lift, and Comp Cams 975 valve springs under the Toda inner shim kit,
but the factory (1FZ ?) shim-less buckets would be better.

Head modified to Group-A combustion chambers to unmask the valves (looks like a 2JZ/RB26 type combustion chamber), 1mm oversize valves, with the port pockets bored larger.
Custom made pistons, since any of the TRD-Europe Cosworth pistons with about 3mm pop-up domes are long gone.
After market H-beam rods, with the fully counterweighted crank.
Lots of porting to the oil system, and a turbo oil pump (it's larger that the NA).
That vid was back when I was running a 70mm throttle, on a modified Supra NA manifold, and a bunch of piggy back black boxes, and a stock ECU that had the rev limiter bumped.
A good header....which hard to come by, unless you have someone custom build one.
The off the shelf ones all were for taking someone's money who just had to have a 'header'.
About the only ones still available are TRUST, and Pacesetter.
The Trust ones have a bad secondary collector, and the secondary tubes are on the small size.
The Pacesetter has even worse secondary collector....
I used the Pacesetter, but threw away the second half, and custom built it from there, going out to an 80mm tail pipe, but somewhere down the line, a full custom would be a better choice.

Set the cams to about 108 lobe centers, and play with them on the amount of retard.

An ATI crank dampener is a must.
I use a shit ton of coatings (ceramic, Teflon, and moly).
And an 8 qt pan is a must, but dry sump would be better.

To keep the engine alive at this type of RPM, you need about 85 psi oil pressure, that will quickly roast the stock front thrust bearing on the countershaft.
Technico out of Australia sells a very nice needle thrust bearing conversion that takes care of that issue.

You end up with an engine that has nearly no power under 4000 rpm, and really doesn't come alive until 6500.
So forget the factory 5-speeds, as the 4th to 5th upshift will knock you right out of the power band.
I was running a modified A340E, with the over drive from an IS300, that had a lower 4th ratio, and 4.56 rear gears.
Could never get anyone to build a true high stall converter, like in the 5000 range, so the auto is sitting in the corner of my garage, and I now adapting an HPI close ratio 6-speed.
6-speeds like the CD009 Nissan, or Tremec, or BMW all have a fatal flaw, they all have a too low first, and/or a too tall of 6th gear ratio. In other words they are meant so normal people can crawl through grocery store parking lots, or to comply with emission standards when running down the highway at 65mph.

I have a 7lb flywheel with a Tilton twin 7.25" clutch to tie the engine to the trans, and will be custom ordering a carbon fiber driveshaft here soon.

It's all a matter of how far down the into money pit you want to go...
Thank you so much for your help.
 
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