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I am starting to build up my MKIII now I am hoping to build up to the swap. I am starting off with coil overs right now. but where should i go from there.

1. will the W58 bolt up to the 7m.
2. what all needs to happen with the drive shaft. should i go solid or stay with the stock.
3. What all dose it take. I am going to buy all this over time and do the switch one week.
 

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Don't waste your time going 7MGE-T and then 2JZ. It's simply a waste of money to jump through inferior engines with minor gains for the money spent. Keep your 7MGE and just plan to go 2JZ-GTE with a R154. I'd sell the coilovers for the 2JZ swap.

1) Yes if it has a 7M/W58 bellhousing
2) You need the appropriate front half of the driveshaft for the transmission you're dropping in.
3) Which swap are you asking about? Both?
 

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For 7M-GTE to 2JZ, you'll need the following major parts assuming that you'll keep your R154;
1JZ engine brackets
1JZ/R154 Bellhousing
1JZ/R154 Flywheel
2JZ high pressure powersteering line
Wiring conversion
Rear sump oil pan (if you get a front sump Aristo 2JZ)
 

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Well is swapping out the gt the same as the gte?
Wouldnt there be a disadvantage to staying with the r154
You're confusing the hell out of me. 7M-GE is the non-turbo while the 7M-GTE is the turbo. If there is a "T" in the name, then it has a turbo. The R154 (turbo tranny) is way more robust than the W58 (non-turbo tranny). The R154 is good up to 700rwhp while the W58 is barely good past 300rwhp unless you baby it.
 

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i would swap in the 2jzge an turbo it later if u want to save some money an its an easy swap
I disagree. Swapping in a non-turbo 2JZ is not a worthwhile upgrade by itself. When you convert it to turbo, (i.e. thicker headgasket to lower compression) it's still inferior to a GTE and you must go straight to a single turbo and standalone ECU since the heads are different and you can't use a GTE harness.

I would just save up and swap a JDM 2JZ-GTE with a R154 and call it a day.
 

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ge is a great motor just need a tt headgasket arp studs an u can still use the 7mgte harness an ecu. a guy on supramania made more then 500hp on 18psi with a mp t70 880cc injectors an a super afc doing the ge swap. i dont see anything wrong with doing the swap an many people are starting to do it.
 

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ge is a great motor just need a tt headgasket arp studs an u can still use the 7mgte harness an ecu. a guy on supramania made more then 500hp on 18psi with a mp t70 880cc injectors an a super afc doing the ge swap. i dont see anything wrong with doing the swap an many people are starting to do it.
The 2JZ NA-T a cheap swap if you already have a 7M-GTE. My argument is that it's not worth going 2JZ NA-T because he has a non-turbo 7M to start with plus the questionable reliablity with the 7M electronics. Otherwise you need to source a 7M-GTE engine harness, ECU, ignitor, CPS with slot modification, 7M-GTE coilpacks, stock AFM or LEX/550's, tachometer, R154 tranny, R154 driveshaft/frontshaft, piggyback/standalone, thicker headgasket, ARP headstuds, turbo, and exhaust manifold and conversion parts.

Now let's break it down for his case (all used prices below are averages i've seen on the f/s forums):
2JZ-GE longblock = $500
7M-GTE engine harness (good condition) = $200
7M-GTE ECU = $75
7M-GTE Ignitor = $50
7M-GTE CPS = $75
7M-GTE coilpacks = $60
R154 driveshaft = $100
R154 tranny = $400
R154 clutch kit = $450
Lexus AFM w/ 7M-GTE sensor = $100
550cc injectors = $300
SAF-C II= $300
2.0mm Cometic headgasket = $252
ARP Headstuds = $150
Turbo (say some cheap MP T70) = $800
Turbo manifold = $200
1JZ/R154 bellhousing = $344
1JZ/R154 flywheel = $280
1JZ engine brackets = $150

Grand total = $4786.00 for his conversion plus tuning, intercooler/piping, exhaust etc.

JDM 2JZ-GTE with harness and ECU = $1800
R154 driveshaft = $100
R154 tranny = $400
R154 clutch kit = $450
1JZ/R154 bellhousing = $344
1JZ/R154 flywheel = $280
1JZ engine brackets = $150

Grand total = $3524.00 and no headaches of finding used 7M parts and assume he does wiring conversion himself and swapped used oil pans (I bought a rear sump for $200 and sold my front sump locally for $200).

Just for comparison sake and adding the SAFC II ($300), Turbo ($800), and single manifold ($200) equates to $4824.00 which is $38 more than the NA-T but you have better everything. Better electronics, better pistons, and a better flowing head.

NOTE: The above lists are incomplete references and other needed parts to run these setups are omitted due to just cancelling eachother out moneywise for comparison and in no way reflects a 100% guide.
 
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