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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thought I would officially start a project thread for support and accountability. This is the first time I've pulled the motor out for rebuild so it's going to be a bit of a slow pace but I have time and money to get this finished. My promise is not another forgotten thread! I've been lurking this thread since I've had this car and I think this is my second or third account because i forgot emails or passwords. I try to search heavy and post little - We're living in a great time for these cars and having an insane amount of information on communities like this. I feel like if i run into a problem im sure theres a handful of people that have run into the same issues. I feel like I would still be on the side of the road without supraforums or supramania.

My bookmark tab on this car is getting overwhelming but I've learned so much just by going down rabbit holes of common issues or tips and tricks for the path im going down in this car.

I've had this car for 10+ years. Without getting too much into a sob story about the history and what i've done with the car I want to jump straight into what my plan is moving forward.

The car as sits has stock bottom end. 160+k. Top end has 264 BC cams and springs. One broken cam gear. 60-1 CT26. SAFC neo, 550/lex afm, Automotive fuel pressure regulator, SSQV, 3.5" straight exhaust, ERP blocked, I believe the 3mm MHG. I want to say thats everything. My initial build was a blueprint bolt-on build. Car made 350whp at 18psi. when I did the top end and a tune. I was really happy with everything as it was a weekend ripper. Blew the turbo after 3 months and thats how its been sitting since. Thats about 5 years or so.

Then it started making some woodpecker sounds in the engine bay. Swapped shims and put everything back to TSRM specs but the sound was still there. As im in a position with a garage and time and money I figured its a long time coming to just rip it out and start over.

My plan as it sits:

Top end refresh/bottom end semi-built/ECU master standalone/new clutch/ new turbo setup.

I dont plan on making any changes on the top end other than getting things machined/decked. New valve seals etc the basic works. New cam gears(I want to say i over torqued the adjustable part on the cams and it cracked. I'll show a photo of that wonderful discovery later)
Not sure what head gasket to run yet. Block has never been machined. (Should have done this when doing the first metal head gasket. I know not decking the block / head with metal head gasket is a big no-no. Must have got lucky)

Leaning towards Titans 2.0mm MHG. Again, depends on how much material gets taken off - I want a lower compression ratio to help with boost etc. This will be a conversation ill have with my machine guy once I get numbers back.

Cam gears
2.0MHG
750-1000cc Bosch injectors
ECU masters standalone
Either T3 manifold or adapter to run T3 (Either HX35 or Twisted motions gt35 (.63 AR) My buddy runs this on his E92 and drives that car harder than I will ever push this car and the turbo. Rebuilt and balanced China turbos. Great. Hotside of this car is keeping me up at night I'm still not 100% sure with what I want to do. Have a lot of time to dial this in.))
Wastegate still figuring out.

Clevite bearings
ARP hardware (already have headstuds/bolts for top end)
Recommendations for anything bolting the bottom end together tell me what I need. I just want to do this right the first time.
New oil pump
AZ performance oil pump pipe
Oil filter relocation kit
(Really want to get the oiling part of this down as for upgrades and improving this. Any input is helpful).

Wiseco pistons. Plan is to go .020 over. From what I read it sounds like stock internals are in the range of 500whp. My goal is 4-450hp. Shot-peen rods/forged pistons? Input on this would be great also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
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Flywheel is smoked as well as the clutch. Surprisingly the last couple times I had driven the car everything felt fine! Clutch grabbed really well. Yikes! This is a lightnened flywheel so I'm going to see if it can be resurfaced. If not I may go back to stock flywheel You can see the bolts off the puck did some work on the flywheel.

Also, if these photos are obnoxiously large let me know
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
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As this is the first time she's been split I'm honestly surprised on the condition of the cylinder walls. I didnt notice any scoring or anything to note. Happy days. A lot of carbon build up I know she was running real rich. Never liked the piggyback with the closed/open loop ECU I never felt right to me. Certainly shows a bit i'd say.

Ill work on getting some more photos up later this week. This is about where im currently at regardless. Work and other things have been getting in the way but I'm at a really enjoyable spot right now with taking things apart and organizing everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
K one last one of the cam gear. If you're looking for a ticking time bomb I have one for you. This was on the car for a good 3k miles if that makes you feel better: You can see cracks on almost every bolt! Yikes!

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Nice! Looks like we have similar power goals on a stock block. Curious to see what direction you go on parts.

What brand cam gears were those? Curious as I have fidanza's sitting in a box and those look a lot like them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah I would say more user error than anything. I've found Fidanza a somewhat reputable brand; can't find much of them failing the way mine broke. I know for a fact I most likely over torqued them.(I just did a quick search and I believe torque specs are around 40ftlbs).

That's cool to know someone else is aiming for the same output as I am. I'm certainly planning on being transparent with this build as i continue. Not going for a crazy high output build that breaks the bank so I'm hoping im on the right direction for what I want out of it. Not wanting to push the limits but I want to make sure I can do burnouts and drive the piss out of the car every weekend with little to no issue.

I just need to make sure I get the bottom end dialed in. My biggest hurdle moving forward.
 

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Yeah I would say more user error than anything. I've found Fidanza a somewhat reputable brand; can't find much of them failing the way mine broke. I know for a fact I most likely over torqued them.(I just did a quick search and I believe torque specs are around 40ftlbs).

That's cool to know someone else is aiming for the same output as I am. I'm certainly planning on being transparent with this build as i continue. Not going for a crazy high output build that breaks the bank so I'm hoping im on the right direction for what I want out of it. Not wanting to push the limits but I want to make sure I can do burnouts and drive the piss out of the car every weekend with little to no issue.

I just need to make sure I get the bottom end dialed in. My biggest hurdle moving forward.
I've seen probably two dozen cracked or broken Fidanza cam gears for 7M's and other various engines. You didn't overtorque them, they're just crappy. I would take a look at Technico for quality 7M cam gears if you'd rather avoid the hunt for vintage HKS/Jun/Toda cam gears that are now rare as hell. Run the stock cam gears if you're on a budget, just see where the cams degree out to vs BC's spec to see whether or not adjustable cam gears are truly needed.

On your MHG selection I'd avoid doing anything to lower the compression past the stock 8.5:1. 9.0:1 or so is excellent. Going insanely low on static compression is an old school method for avoiding problems that were honestly related to crappy engine management of the day. With an ECUMaster standalone and a proper crank position sensor & trigger wheel (instead of getting crank position from the Cam position sensor, which is prone to inaccuracy, which results in widely inaccurate ignition timing values no matter how it's tuned or what ECU is used. The lack of a crank sensor is, IMHO, the long time achillies heel of all 7M performance builds and why so many of the failed when similar JZ builds did not (1JZ/2JZ-GTE's all had a factory crank position sensor and trigger wheel on the timing belt drive gear)

Injectors - same thing. Anything modern is vastly better especially with a modern standalone. Anything based on the Bosch EV14 injectors is ideal, especially stuff like Injector Dynamics and the EV14 based offerings from Fuel Injector Clinic. For your power goals basically any 725-1300cc injector would work.

Turbo - I'd get the $100 cast T4 log manifold copy of the old HKS manifold from a popular auction site, and run an inexpensive T4 flanged something. For a budget friendly but quality turbo I'd look at AGP Turbo's 5762E with a .68 T4 housing, $895 off their site. They're good dudes in AZ and they always pick up the phone. I've bought two turbos from them for various builds and I'm very happy for the price paid. They rate the 5762E at ~650hp which will hit your ~450-500whp goal perfectly at pump gas friendly boost levels and with good response. Get an HKS clone gate and dump pipe that fits or get a V-band adapter for the 4-bolt gate pattern and run a modern V-band gate accordingly. Mod your existing CT downpipe to suit the T4 and vent the gate to atmosphere with an easy dump tube. With fittings and everything else done you'd be into the whole setup for less than $1500.

I'll have more input tomorrow on oiling, lots of stuff to do there. But I'm fighting off the 'rona right now and heading to bed. Sorry if anything above is blathering nonsense or doesn't read well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Cam gears,

Could I even get away with running stock cam gears and having intake/exhaust 0,0 degrees? If I can still get some potential out of those cams with stock gears then perhaps that will be an easy fix to the issue. Curious if anyone has any input on running those 264's with stock cam gears. I'll do some searching today to see if I can find anything relatable. Even with the adjustable gears i think one exhaust or intake was adjusted by a degree or two. I followed someone elses build a while ago and decided to try it out. Wish i had my dyno sheet printed still - decent mid range and for bored ct26 it felt really responsive. Again this was 6-7 years ago so I might be a bit foggy on that.

For MHG, I really wish I saved receipts or had any idea what MHG I took off the car. I guess I could get some calipers and get a ROUGH guess of thickness but I feel dumb even typing that or considering that be an option. Once the block and head is all decked I'll do the math and dial in a compression ratio from 8.5:1.-9.0:1. Im sure my machine guy can support me in finding the proper thickness for what compression ratio I want. Appreciate the insight I know the thicker the lower the ratio so my simple thought process was it'll be easier to throw more boost at it. Your point of management from today to 10+ years ago is comparing apples to oranges so thats a good point.

Injectors, I was looking at the Bosch 1000cc injectors. I think I have the ones on driftmotion bookmarked. States theyre EV-6? Need to dig into more about injectors it sounds like.


Running high impendence on the 7m harness: This sounds wild to me joining all wires from resistor pack but Im not electrician. Any inputs on that regarding injectors and running high impendence?

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Manifold/turbo:
I went ahead and bookmarked that AGP company. Love how many options you have to choose from. Seems like more than plenty for my goal on this. Certainly consider them I know id rather go off great reviews from someone else than gambling on a shit turbo. Seems more reputable than some China gamble. AZ isn't local to me but it certainly beats calling a 800 number from god knows where if i have questions or concerns about what i'm getting. The Twisted motions turbo I can get for a deal due to my buddy being close with the company. Might be able to get it at cost so thats a big reason why I was leaning towards that option. Again, this is a ways down the road so i have time to go back and forth finding a turbo. Longer I take the easier it will be to spend money on it. The 7m budget will get bigger.


As for the manifold I found that Rev9 cast manifold. Curious if this is the one you're talking about. Looks like you can get the damn thing off Amazon which is amazing. From $1-200 bucks. Heres the link from their site: what a time to be alive.



This weekend im having some buddys over to help strip the rest of the block. Hopefully get everything organized and cleaned up. Try and update with some more photos
 

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"On your MHG selection I'd avoid doing anything to lower the compression past the stock 8.5:1. 9.0:1 or so is excellent. Going insanely low on static compression is an old school method for avoiding problems that were honestly related to crappy engine management of the day"

For sure Wreckless......I am with you on that. Was it John Lunsford that ran 9:1 compression pistons I think and made serious power 436rwhp with a CT26. I was then inspired to use Wiseco 9:1 pistons and a 1.2mm HG with 272 BC cams, and a GT4067R with a 7500rpm red line.Feel better bro.
Now my new project compression ratio is Much higher than that with BC304 276 10.29MM CAMS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Only thing I have left to do is take the mains off and pull the crank.

Made a mistake by saving this pulley bolt last. Waiting on tools to get it out. Tried 1/2" impact, heat, PB blaster, lots of leverage. Thing is wild tight so this will be fun to tackle this week.

Check out this bearing for cylinder 6!
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Turns out this motor has for certain been taken apart. Discovered a 6M stamp on the crank so thats cool. Bearings were rough -
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Ill get some more photos tomorrow or Tuesday but making good progress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Heres where im at. Just need to get the pulley bolt off so i can pull the crank. Then its organizing and labeling everything for the machine shop. Getting the bottom end and all internals balanced etc. Just need to get pistons before I drop it off. Getting close! Its just been damn cold this week so it might be until the weekend before making more progress.
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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Heres where im at. Just need to get the pulley bolt off so i can pull the crank. Then its organizing and labeling everything for the machine shop. Getting the bottom end and all internals balanced etc. Just need to get pistons before I drop it off. Getting close! Its just been damn cold this week so it might be until the weekend before making more progress.

If you can't remove the bolt the machine shop should be able to do it
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah that might be my only hope. Tried some big daddy 1/2" impacts. Got a crowbar in there to stop the crank and had a super long breaker bar with three of my buddies trying to break it free and nothing. PB blaster, torch - they did nothing.

The crowbar was positioned in a way on the counterbalance thing on the crank so it was fucking anything up. Had a towel over it so it didnt scratch or ruin anything. Thats about as far as I went to try getting it off.
 

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Stuck bolts, GAH!

Heat (get the bolt glowing), WD40, and tapping it.... my go to for loosening bolts if the big 'ol impact doesn't do the job.

Are you just honing or boring out? Might want to wait on getting pistons until the bores are measured after boring/honing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sucker was glowing and we had to torch on there for a couple minutes. Still nothing. Honestly impressed at this point with how tight that thing is. Hooly shit.

Also, yes going .020 with Wiesco pistons so I need to bite the bullet and order those before dropping everything off.

Im surprsied I didnt see any stamps on the pistons. If the block has been taken apart and perhaps rebuilt wouldn't I suspect some sort of bore or different sizes for the pistons? Or do you think he just cleaned up the cylinder walls and put new rings in there.

Might be a dumb question so go easy on me. Just always thought if you were going to re-do the bottom end you're going to get the cylinder walls bored a bit or honed to a new size.
 

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@srenslow Yes, you can run the stock cam gears if needed. I answered that in my first paragraph of my first reply. I know I type walls of text but it kinda bugs me when I get asked a question I already directly answered. I'm here to help out and I'm all for the Supra love, but if I feel like what I'm typing isn't getting read, I won't waste my time.

Those Driftmotion EV6 injectors are light years ahead of the old school stuff but they're not as good as current EV14 based offerings. Budget dictates, and believe me I get it. When the 6 of those can be had for under $100 each and DM supplies all the needed data to tune them in a modern ECU that's a strong argument for them vs ID1300's that are $1100+ for a set.
1000cc injectors will support 800-900whp on race gas and 550-650whp on E85, depending on your base fuel pressure and of course the rest of the engine combo.

On the resistor pack - remember that the ECU switches injectors to a ground ground to open them, the power comes from the other side of the injector. The resistor pack is to match the total impedance correctly to keep that power source from beating up that injector. So yes, that writeup is accurate for bypassing the injector resistor pack.

On the turbo - go with the homie hookup if your buddy is close to them. Being friends helps if something goes wrong. The downside is that none of Twisted Motions options really line up well for a 450whp goal with a T4 flange. They have some GT3582 clones but those end up being a 66/68 by PTE style measurement, meaning it's a lot bigger and likely a decent bit laggier than the AGP journal bearing turbo I pointed you at. The larger turbo would certainly do the job, probably efficiently too, but I'm not sure how much lag you're willing to endure. That said, some headroom to easily make 500-550whp instead isn't a bad thing.

On the crank pulley bolt - I spent $80 on a Harbor Freight 3/4in (yes, 3/4in) drive impact gun some years back. I leave it set on lefty loosey only after accidentally exploding a stock 1UZ cam gear with it.
So far at 150psi with the correct impact adapters, it has been my undefeated 'I WASN'T ASKING' crank bolt removal option. I prefer that to all the heating/torching etc since the heat will degrade the rubber in the crank damper.
 
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Just realized I meant to talk about the oil system as well.

AZ performance makes a wonderful banjo feed line eliminator that's 100% hardline and I emphatically recommend that. Driftmotion's oil pump spring and just be careful with your bearing clearances when assembling the engine. Measure everything at least three times, and invest in good calipers to get truly accurate measurements. If you have the block overbored, use the specs provided by your overbore pistons, do not just assuming a .5mm overbore is the same for every machine shop and every piston. I got burned by that one bad.

After that, find a 7M-GE union bolt that allows you to just screw an oil filter onto the block itself. From that, run a sandwich adapter to a thermostatic oil filter mount/oil cooler loop combo and run a full flow oil cooler that way. Driftmotion offers a surprisingly decent kit for this.
Just get rid of that whole stupid oil filter block the 7M-GTE uses that bolts to the block and runs that bullshit partial-flow oil pressure robbing bypass drain style cooler. That's really the most important part of making a 7M survive IMHO.
 
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