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Discussion Starter #1
i can never get a straight answer to this question and MK3 guys are the only people that are willing to help with my 7M problems so I am here
because JZXproject has no real information for 7M's and tell me to KMS every 5 seconds so i am here looking for knowledge.

I've spent the last 3 days through these forums looking at 7M threads trying to figure out what set up is and i have learned a lot but I am not no pro yet. I have a bad habit to go overboard and buy necessary things when im just trying to make 400 reliable horsepower so before i do that i want to know with the community knowing more knowledge about the 7M compared to 10 years ago.. I want to know if converting the rear sump oil pump and pick up 7MGTE to a front sump system from the x8 Cressida is OK for a 7mgte build ? I have never found a real straight answer if the the two pumps are the same. If not how do i go about making a good front sump 7MGTE system for the Cressida if possible. In the end I do want to have a proper turbo 7M in the Cressida and make 400 to 500 HP. as of right now my main problem is making the 7MGTE front sump without risking oiling issues and cost me other motor especially now that i want to do it right.



Question #2

when trying to make 400 to 500 HP out if a 7m is it overboard to go forged internals with a 57 trim ct26. the only reason i'm thinking about this is that i can't find and 7Ms with good factory internals worthy for a rebuild. my idea was to build the motor to where it could handle high power if i wanted to go that route but also have peace of mind knowing that there not some questionable components in my motor. I know it's possible to reach 400 with stock internals but how safe is it for a long term set up.



I am looking forward to your guys responses since I am new to this 7M stuff sorry if i sound stupid but i rather ask then be clueless
 

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First, the Cressida pan sucks as is, as all the oil will leave the oil pick up on a hard launch, which will take your rod bearings to lunch...
Several things that can help the Cressida pan, like adding a trap door to keep more of the oil up front, like this:


You can add extra capacity by adding 1 quart wings from Speedway Motors (about $20 each):


And a crank scraper:


Last, but not least, use the GTE pump, as the GE that fits the Cressida pan is smaller, and won't support the turbo's oil needs.
Yes, you will have to modify the pick up tube.
Not the best picture:


Ceramic coating the piston domes, and you can eliminate the GTE oil squirters, and save that oil flow for more important things like rod & main bearings.
 

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When you get to your power level, the first thing you will do is destroy your rear subframe, as it is very weak.
To cure that, extra steel sheet (minimum 14 ga) welded in will stop that, along with solid diff mounts'
Rear:


Front:




And while your at it, replace the sub-frame mount bushings with either hard poly, or solid, as the stock rubber are absolutely horrible, and allow the sub-frame to move around way too much, absolutely ruining the handling.

Lets see, that brings use to internals.
I wouldn't run anything less than Eagle rods, and any name brand forged piston.
Just stay away from Probe pistons, as I've seen real quality control issues with them.
Ross is good, but heavy.
And don't even consider Brat Crower's chinese sourced shit, any of it....


A lot of stuff is out there, like sub-frame plates (at least the rear one) is available from Xcessive, who make a lot of X8 stuff, some of it actually good, some not so.

I have a lot of things posted here, just never did a build thread due to it mot being a Supra.
I do have a build thread on JZXP, but unless you post in my build thread, 7M guys are chased away.
ID: Gordo

Absolutely read Quake's thread here on the answer to 7M head gasket issues.

The Cressida is fun, as few people know what one is, let alone what it can do.
Favorite pass time is hunting mustangs, as they think they just pulled up on a Camry with nice wheels, and a loud exhaust. Many of them know not to fuck with a Supra :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for all the good advice I appreciate it a bunch

What you recomend for cams instead of BC cause that's all that google shoves down my mouth when I look up 7M cams

And I'll forsure be checking out quakes post and what's the link for your build I haven't seen any 7M stuff on JZXP at all that's why I've been here


Also is there anyway to convince you to do that oil drive shaft modification you did a few years ago I know you said in. Another thread you didnt have alot of time but never hurts to ask
 

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HKS, JUN, GReddy, and TODA all made 7M cams. They pop up once in a while in Japan, and over here.
In fact there are a pair of TODA in Japan right now for $500-ish + shipping.

Yeah, haven't been posting much in my thread on JZX due to frigging work, same reason I can't do any oil drive shafts, 12 hour days, and 2 hours travel time is hard to deal with at my age.
That may change if I retire, as I am getting fed up with the electronics manufacturing industry, where they let any operator screw with equipment, hire techs that can't wipe there own ass without screwing it up, and engineers who think they are gods, but couldn't keep a chain on their own mountain bike.
How does one become an engineer?
Take the prerequisite class, How to Stick Your Head Up Your Ass 101....

But one thing you should do is order the needle thrust bearing conversion for that shaft from Technico down under. It is a must when running high oil pressure, and is 100% bolt-on.

Technico Racing 7M thrust bearing
 

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12 hour days
12 hour days suck ass and I ain't nearly as old as you


Also is there anyway to convince you to do that oil drive shaft modification you did a few years ago I know you said in. Another thread you didnt have alot of time but never hurts to ask
While it's nowhere near as elegant as Sixpacks mod, you can get a cam gear for a Toyota 2E/3E out of a Tercel and have the D shaped hub cut off an OEM 7M drive gear welded on. The 3E gear is a 42 tooth vs the OEM 46 tooth so you get a bit of an overdrive on the pump without needing a custom belt. I'd recommend finding a machine shop that has experience welding powdered metal as it can be very tricky to get a good weld on and you'll want the "D" hub squared up and perfectly centered before welding.


The timing belt tensioner will need a sleeve pressed on to take up the extra slack in the timing belt but a competent machine shop can make one of those. The timing cover needs some modification for clearance but that's pretty straight forward and easy enough with a grinder.


And that Technico thrust bearing Sixpack posted? Buy that no matter what you do with the oil pump drive. Far superior to the OEM metal on metal design.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
But one thing you should do is order the needle thrust bearing conversion for that shaft from Technico down under. It is a must when running high oil pressure, and is 100% bolt-on.

Technico Racing 7M thrust bearing
I was actually planning to use the technico thrust bearing after reading your feed back from previous threads

And I looked on Toda's website and it seem they still make them but what about the springs and retainers because I'm not sure if spending about 1k on the toda ones doesn't seem like a smart decision and more like an unnecessary flex. Also Taking a few step back to the whole oil squirter thing, I have a N/A block in my garage so it's best I just build of that then, Right?

12 hour days suck ass and I ain't nearly as old as you




While it's nowhere near as elegant as Sixpacks mod, you can get a cam gear for a Toyota 2E/3E out of a Tercel and have the D shaped hub cut off an OEM 7M drive gear welded on. The 3E gear is a 42 tooth vs the OEM 46 tooth so you get a bit of an overdrive on the pump without needing a custom belt. I'd recommend finding a machine shop that has experience welding powdered metal as it can be very tricky to get a good weld on and you'll want the "D" hub squared up and perfectly centered before welding.


The timing belt tensioner will need a sleeve pressed on to take up the extra slack in the timing belt but a competent machine shop can make one of those. The timing cover needs some modification for clearance but that's pretty straight forward and easy enough with a grinder.


And that Technico thrust bearing Sixpack posted? Buy that no matter what you do with the oil pump drive. Far superior to the OEM metal on metal design.
I am 100% thinking about this method. I'd like to believe my machine shop can do this seems straight forward enough

Well I think I got most of the major stuff out of the way I just got to decide what turbo is gonna work best. I might be going overkill with the internals but I'm trying to have a nice usable 400 to 500 HP without having to worry about some 25+ year old thing breaking on my dumbass. So if yall have any turbo recommendation that are not Ebay I'm all ears...

Time to go back into my hole and lurk the forums again
 

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Don't use TODA inner shim retainers and buckets, use the shimless buckets that Toyota makes,
from the Yaris 1SZ-FE, about $15 each.
Lighter than the TODA inner shim set, and half the price.
Bit more difficult to set up, but worth the effort.
with Comp Cams 975-12 springs (you will need 2 boxes of them at about $26 a box).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Don't use TODA inner shim retainers and buckets, use the shimless buckets that Toyota makes,
from the Yaris 1SZ-FE, about $15 each.
reading up on the 1SZ-FE set up it a no brainier ill do some more reading on that for sure and the comp cam 975-12 springs is a great idea thank you and i am assuming the factory retainers would work fine or is there something else im missing but over all im happy with all the information you telling me i appreciate it
 

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Discussion Starter #10
update: those Toda cams you said were in Japan don't seem to be in that bad of condition they just need some cleaning by the looks of it there a 256 EX and 264 IN I might have to pull the trigger on them
 

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Toyota 2E/3E out of a Tercel and have the D shaped hub cut off an OEM 7M drive gear welded on. The 3E gear is a 42 tooth vs the OEM 46 tooth so you get a bit of an overdrive on the pump without needing a custom belt.
Nice find.
Might be easier to turn down the 7M shaft to fit the 3E gear, than relying on someone welding powdered metal.
I will have to give that a try, if I retire.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
yup im glad i found those cams there was only 15 hours left on the auction and ill ask my machine shop whats easier for them between welding the 3E gear or turning down the 7M shaft now i got to go start ordering parts for the build. I will post small updates when i can here to document progress i appreciate all the advice you given me
 

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Nice find.
Might be easier to turn down the 7M shaft to fit the 3E gear, than relying on someone welding powdered metal.
I will have to give that a try, if I retire.
Offset on the gear is different, would need a spacer of some sort but would likely be more reliable than welding. I am just fortunate enough to have a fairly decent amount of experience welding powdered and sand cast metals. Not nearly as much experience with machine tools though.

I've been looking at having an adapter hub made that would fit the 3E cam gear or a regular JZ cam gear that would simply get sandwiched between the shaft and the gear. Work has prevented me from pursuing this unfortunately.

ill ask my machine shop whats easier for them between welding the 3E gear or turning down the 7M shaft
Might recommend just taking the shaft, OEM gear, and 3E gear and asking if they can make it work.
 

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I've been looking at having an adapter hub made that would fit...............a regular JZ cam gear
Are the belt tooth profiles the same ?
Thought I looked at that once, and the JZ had a square tooth profile.
Maybe I'm thinking of something else......Maybe it was the 5M teeth are different.

I am not a big fan of using the 7M center, as I mentioned back in another thread, those really don't run very true, nor does the press on spacer that the seal rides on.
2016 thread about pulley issues
 

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Are the belt tooth profiles the same ?
Thought I looked at that once, and the JZ had a square tooth profile.
Maybe I'm thinking of something else......Maybe it was the 5M teeth are different.
I never actually got to the point of verifying if it was 8mm HTD or not, just more of a "hey, it would be nice if there were an option to put a mass produced cam gear on instead of having to track down a good oil pump drive gear....." The tooth profile however is a rounded type. The early 5Ms were a square tooth from what I recall but I don't know when (or if) it changed to the rounded.

I am not a big fan of using the 7M center, as I mentioned back in another thread, those really don't run very true, nor does the press on spacer that the seal rides on.
I remember that well as it was the same time frame I was working on getting the 3E gear to fit and it explained some of the issues I ran into. But now that you've mentioned it I am thinking about a spacer to replace the OEM press on one.....
 
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