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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any advice would be helpful here. I may have ruined my maf / 91 Turbo, after spraying out with carb cleaner. �� Another hard lesson here for a novice mechanic. After disassembly and light cleaning of my air intake. (turbo boot had a slight tear, so I wanted to temporarily wrap it to seal the air flow into the turbine) anyhow, took all hoses apart, wiped clean any dust from the insides and sprayed carb cleaner through the MAF housing, let dry. Changed the oil, and then re-assembly. Test drive and my guts were in knots, jumping and bucking and shutting off, rapid rev idle and no throttle response had me sick to my stomach. ugh. She ran about perfect beforehand. So, a little research took me to my mess up. Its been a few days and wanted to re-clean the MAF with cRC MAF cleaner, just once before buying a new sensor + housing. The cleaner says DO NOT use on my supra with the Karmen-Vortex MAFS. Any experience on cleaning one of these.
 

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A KV is completely different than a MAF...
A MAF has a wire element, the KV has a thin plastic element that vibrates in the air flow.
The minute you hit it with carb cleaner, it was junk.
If you had hit it with MAF cleaner, it would have taken a dump also.
But you don't need to buy a Housing, as the sensor part is available.
I've used the element from the Lexus 1UZ, as they are the same, only the housing differs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the quick Explain, I was wondering if the read would be different for the triangular shaped plastic sensor. Makes sense that it would get a ks read with each side creating sort of a back-eddy read. So, You're saying, my honeycomb has no relative damage from the cleaner, right? it's just there to straighten the air flow, I'm assuming.
 

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Yes sir.
And if you ever damage the honeycomb, it can be removed (I have a post somewhere here, on how to remove the retainer), and using a ball tip allen driver, pushed in from the rear, the hex holes can be straitened.
It can also be replaced, as McMaster-Carr has sheets of the material, that cuts nicely in a band saw.
Many of the old damaged honeycombs that I've handled, if there was really bad damage to just one section, I cut them up, and made anti-glare rifle scope filters out of them,
and they also make good soldering surfaces, so as not to damage my work station surface.
 

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a cheap fix for your supra.

Reg Riemer has a web site http://supras.com/~riemer/lexusriemer/lexusnotes.html.

Sonic tech note series. It explains about the sensor, which ones you can use, and how to use the Lexus air flow meter with a set of 450 cc fuel injectors and a lot of other options. The Lexus air flow meter will give you 25% more air flow plus the 450 injectors are 25% larger than stock. The computer will adjust with a little air flow change and live quite happily with much more power.

PS: If you can't find the notes I will send you my email address and I can email you the notes.

Good luck
Dale
 

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No.......
It's 550 injectors.
Stock are 440cc.

The best way to use a Lexus AFM, with 550cc injectors, is with an APEX-I Super AFC, so you can tune the low end range, where the 1UZ doesn't quite work right.
Some people made a longer adjustment screw for the AFM, but it just about completely closed off the secondary flow path.
Not the best idea, but it worked.
Why put on a larger meter, if you turn right around, and reduce the flow area to where it is nearly as small as the one you were replacing?
Plus the makers of this Band-Aid charged $100 for the screw...
$150 would get you a Super-AFC, that did so much more.

Note to newbies:
Let's try to get facts correct around here.
 

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the (larger) lexus afm housing + 550cc injectors + piggyback tuning device (and adjustable fuel pressure reg) is a proven combo. but if you have to buy all 3 of those parts it gets expensive these days...

there are other ways to go, especially if you are only running a stock ct26

I run maf translator pro with stock 440's, stock ct26 and can hit close to 15psi without fuel cut.

maf translator pro allows you to not even run an AFM because it is a little piggy back tuning computer that emulates the AFM signal to the stock cars ecu. confused yet ? it does it by using speed density -- a map sensor and intake temp sensor feed data to the maft-pro box and it in turn calculates out what the afm frequency should be (air flow) and sends it to the cars ecu.

the maf translator also allows you to hook a pc up and data log. and of course tune (at many more rmp / load points / more detail than a safc). it also can function as a electronic boost controller.

I bought mine used for $100 (and am a fanboy for sure). its helping me get a lot out of the stock turbo ~ 13.6 @106 in the quarter

https://www.supraforums.com/forum/s...ck-440-injectors-raising-fuel-cut-boost-limit
 

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Years ago I wrecked my Turbo AFM by spray cleaning it. A used one cost me $125. I learned a hard lesson. You can wipe it down but don't spray it. Sometimes these get wrecked by excessive oil from a leaky Turbo. It's always good to have a spare one. I tried the Lexis AFM upgrade with 550CC injectors but did not notice much difference. I used the stock turbo at stock boost. I did not want to get into some kind of advanced fuel management package so I took it off and sold it. About the only place you going to find one now is eBay or a forum like this. One last chance you might try is to put the damaged AFM in a warm electric oven for an hour to try to slowly and carefully bake out the volatile solvents.
 

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Volatile solvents destroy the vibrating element within seconds of coming in contact with it, no amount of baking will help that.
specifically

(because I took one apart)

the little flapper is a very thin piece of aluminum. Thinner than Aluminum foil.

The weight of it is precise to allow it to flap at certain frequency.

Change the mass (which is what you do when you spray the MAF) and the foil ceases to work and actually sticks, and as Sixpack mentioned. At that point it becomes a paperweight.
 
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