Supra Forums banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts
R

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
When I bought my 87 I found it used to have an automatic, but at one time the owner put a five speed in it. Does the flywheel have to be balanced as a unit with the crank and pulley or separately? I am getting a vibration starting at 3000 rpms and up. From idle to 3000 it is very smooth and I was wondering if it should be smooth all the way up. I know it has a long crank and all, but my experience with the four banger Toyota's lets me know they run fairly smooth at even rpms in the 7000 range, I run a Toyota mini stock so I have first hand knowledge.

Any help or ideas would be greatful.

Thanks
Russ
 

·
VIVA LA M.A.S.H. Midwest
Joined
·
1,451 Posts
Is is smooth at 4k or up?
Should be nice and smooth through the whole rpm range.
You might have a fly wheel out of blance, a bad pilot bearing, or even the dreaded crank bolt comming loose on the front of the engine making the pulley wobble.
Good luck and keep us posted.
 

·
The Great Kruso
Joined
·
3,876 Posts
Check for a missfire, if not then check your front main pulley to make sure its snug and tight like mdcmotorsports suggested. When is the vibration occuring, when the car is being driven or when its in neutral?

Kruso
 
R

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks! The dreaded crank bolt huh............hmmmmmmmmmmm. I will check that. I am still wondering though about the flywheel. Are they balanced by themselves and can go on any crank, or do they only goon the one crank assembly, balanced together? I get the vibration reving it in nuetral and running it through the gears. Like I said earlier, it is smooth up to 3K, then the vibration starts. It's not a real bad vibration, but noticable and irritating. If it isn't the front crank pully, then later when I put a clutch in it, I will check the stuff in that area.
The miss also sound interesting. I put new plugs and wires, cap and rotor in the engine when I first got it, but I was wondering if one or more of the injectors might not be working so well in the higher rpms. I do get a miss when I first start the car when it is cold, but it clears out after 15 or 20 seconds. It starts and runs fine when it is warm. I replaced the fuel pump and filter just to eliminate them.
Thanks and I will keep you posted.
 

·
The Great Kruso
Joined
·
3,876 Posts
One of your injectors is definitely clogged. Either have them cleaned or just get some low mileage ones or better yet, drop in some stock turbo injectors as an upgrade. From the whole "cap and rotor" comment, im guessing its an NA.

Kruso
 
R

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
NA? Thanks, I will check into the injectors. I am already dreading asking how much they are, but the turbo and non turbo injectors use the same pressure? One more thing. I don't know if the valves have ever been adusted before and I was thinking of doing that. I have worked on cars with shims before this and each one has had a special tool to keep the bucket down to enable you to slip out the old shim and drop in the new one. Is that so in this case and where do I get the shims I need after using the ones I can?

Thanks again
Russ
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
335 Posts
hey one more thing you could look for
check your tranny mounts and engine mount
it could also give you vibration whne you rev the car.
just some 2cent, can't be sure about it but good to check since it was a auto to 5spd swap.
 
R

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
That is another good idea. I appreciate the replies with a lot of good directions to go and check. It is such an annoying thing. The car is a blast to drive, not like a turbo, but someday I hope!!!! Another thing, does this car really weigh 4400 lbs like it says on the door jam? That has to be the heaviest I have ever seen in any car next to a Caddy!

Thanks
Russ
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,728 Posts
rnoswal said:
Another thing, does this car really weigh 4400 lbs like it says on the door jam? That has to be the heaviest I have ever seen in any car next to a Caddy!

Thanks
Russ
:wtf: no, that's the maximum loaded weight it can carry; the car (1986.5) more likely weighs 3400lbs.
 

·
VIVA LA M.A.S.H. Midwest
Joined
·
1,451 Posts
Russ:
As for the shims on the valve train, I'm pretty sure you have to take out the whole cam assy to get to the "pucks".
To get your injectors cleaned, you can take it to any race shop that works on fuel injection.
I think its like $25-30 an injector + shipping in most cases.
Also, if you notice the vibration while you are driving, it might be the carrier bearing taking a crap on you.
As for the fly wheel...
Most flywheels are balanced to be mated to any supra crank.
For racing purposes though, it would always be smarter to balance the assy rather than individual pcs.
 
R

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Well, I checked the front pulley bolt, it is tight. After further investigation while driving, I got on it hard in second and third gears and then let off some when the vibration started up. I pushed in the clutch pedal and most of the vibration went away. So I gues a lot of this must be in the drive train. I have checked the u-joints a while back and eliminated that part early. So it must be from the flywheel on back to inside the transmission. Well, at leasst gearboxes are easy to pull. One more question.....The hole the gear shifter goes into, I know the shifter has a plastic or nylon cup that fits into that hole in the tranmission and I have that part on the shifter. Is there any easy way to replace the bushing that is in the transmission? I meant the part that the shifter fits directly in the top of the gear box. Who ever the previous owner was let the plastic/nylon cup wear out and the metal portion of the shifter has worn out the part in the transmission making for a lot of play in the shifter. I would hope there was a part that could be pushed in after somehow getting the bushing, or whatever that part is called, out, that the shifter fits into.

Thanks

Russ
 

·
Just some guy
Joined
·
1,681 Posts
Check your motor mounts. Also check your driveshaft carrier bearing. It may be bad or it may be installed incorrectly. Make sure the thick spacers are in between the carrier and the frame.

CHristian
 
R

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the advice. I did replace the carrier bearing pretty soon after I got the car thinking that was my problem. It helped some because the rubber was worn out, but that is not the main problem because it is still there. Amazingly enough, the motor and trans mounts are in real good shape still. I am more inclined to either the gearbox itself or the flywheel/clutch assembly and pilot bearing. I am still curious about the bushing that the shifter fits into though and if it is replaceable. Not the plastic cup that snaps onto the bottom of the shifter, but the piece on the top of the gearbox that the shifter fits in. Someone must have had this same worn out part and maybe had to change it out.........anyone?!?!?!

Thanks

Russ
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,649 Posts
Check the four bolts that hold the driveshaft to the rear diff. I've had those work loose on several of my Supras... and my Celica, for that matter.

As for the valve shims, there is a SST that Toyota uses to depress the bucket with the cams still in place, it wedges between the camshaft and the edge of the bucket, giving you enough space to pry the shim out and insert a new one.

Without that tool, you are looking at pulling the cams.

PS: I've been told that the shims cost $25 from Toyota and about $3 from a machine shop.
 
R

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Well I was just curious about the shims. I don't plan on adjusting them for a while, at least until I get this vibration figured out. I have taken the driveshaft out to replace the carrier bearing, soI know the bolts to the diff. are tight, but you are right they do get loose and they were a bit when I first attacked the this problem. I am hoping that the problem is that something has fallen apart on the pressure plate or disc, or that the pilot shaft bearing had gone and not something inside the gearbox. I have done shims before on Fiats and my old Kawasaki 900 and an XKE Jag and they all had a tool to hold the bucket down. I didn't know about any machine shops having shims though. It would be nice if the Toyota dealers would just work out a trade deal, a shim for a shim, maybe with a small replacement fee. Still hoping for some help on the shifter problem though................ I am still trying to track down a coolant leak and an engine miss that I thought might have been fuel related, but I replaced the pump and filter. I can be just driving along and suddenly the car start stuttering with what feels like a complete lack of spark for just a split second and continues for a while till I really rev it up or shut it off in the driveway and come back out later and the problem goes away for a while. I think my car may be possessed........lol

Russ
 
8

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
How is your drive shaft? If you still have the stock one installed, check the carrier bearing. I had a very bad vibration on the top end. Checked everything, found no problems until I got to the DS.
 
R

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Well, like I said earlier, I did check the carrier bearing and replaced it and checked the bolts and trans mount, replaced the rear seal and I still think it is in the gearbox or in the clutch/flywheel area. I really need to get this fixed though because I love the way it feels up to 3000 rpms and would love to feel that sensation up to 6 or more without the vibrations. I still need to either replace the injectors or have them cleaned too though, as that could be a problem in just poor economy and fuel flow. I hate this, but it will be worth it when I do eventually get it fixed!!!

Russ
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top