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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've been wanting to do the popular T100/Cressida master cylinder upgrade since my brakes have felt like shit ever since replacing the master cylinder in my car. Only recently have I read that 91-92 cars have the front/rear ports on the master swapped compared to every other Mk3 master.

It's possible my mechanic ordered a refurb master for something other than a 91-92 ABS car and I've had my brake line ports biased backwards for the past three years. Additionally, if I do get an upgraded 17/16" master from a T100/Cressida, is there information for them regarding which port is intended for the front/rear? Is there enough give in the hardlines that I could just switch the lines?
 

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wait wait. You replaced the master cylinder.. before going crazy replacing parts, did you bleed the ABS system then the entire brake system???
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
wait wait. You replaced the master cylinder.. before going crazy replacing parts, did you bleed the ABS system then the entire brake system???
Oh yeah the master was replaced three years ago now. I've been chasing crappy pedal feel for all that time since. Did several bleeds, even rigged up a jumper to manually trigger the ABS unit while bleeding. Had a writeup on Supramania, rip. Since then I've done the S500/Evo caliper swap with accompanying bleed and stainless lines, still spongy pedal.
 

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the ABS module has to be bled and that is not an easy task even while you manually activate it. I would focus on the ABS module or if not in use, remove it.
 

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the ABS module has to be bled and that is not an easy task even while you manually activate it. I would focus on the ABS module or if not in use, remove it.
When is a good time to ask for an explanation of the WFX iBooster thing @figgie? Is now a good time?
 

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any time is a good time. :)

The WFX iBooster adapter is for the replacement of the OEM master cylinder with the Bosch ibooster master cylinder.

It replaces vacuum assist with electric assist. Not to be confused with dbw brakes like on 747 (yes airplanes) and the likes.

it clears RMR style FFIM on a 7mgte without having to give up assist OR grind the FFIM to clear master cylinder.

Last but not least, it runs in standalone mode without beedibg to feed or read canbus info.


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey, I remember seeing that over on FB! Excellent piece. I'll see how far I can get with my manual ABS trigger but it may end up getting deleted; too many headaches and I don't have the parts to get it to work properly. My car came with 4.30 gears in place of 3.73s, and my broken speedometer leads me to assume I'm not getting any speed readings from the trans anyways.
 

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The abs sensors are separate from the speedo sensor. Most likely you have a broken speedo cable. That will affect the ecu/ect and cruise control but not abs.
 
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