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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I bought this 93.5 Supra in April 2021 as a returned to stock car. It formally had a GTE/T56/Nitrous setup at 900hp but the drivetrain was pulled and replaced with a GE motor and W58 trans. I received the car about 90% complete (or so I was told) so, my first steps are to chase down some gremlins, get it running and clean it up a lot. I plan to build a spare VVTi GE motor I have, bolt on a GR700A and either Flex or Meth inject since E85 is tough to come by in Portland/Vancouver.

Here she is day 1:

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
So the first thing I did was replace the battery, while doing so I found a nest of wires and relay zip tied to the coolant overflow tank. I ripped it all out and ended up being for some super old school HID kit. I removed all of the random stickers on the windows and just took a good look at everything in the car and made a note of things that needed repaired, cleaned up or simply replaced.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
At the moment, the car cranks but doesn't start so I'm chasing down these plugs on the driver side by the AC condenser and seeing what I need to plug in or solder up to get it running. I know this motor came from a DIRTY car with the newer oil pump with a crank sensor plug and had a Lexus cam cover. The harness is supposedly from an MKIV but no idea what year. In the future, I'll be ordering a custom harness and building a VVTi motor so none of this really matters BUT, I want to get it running with the current setup to get it in for Inspection so I can get it registered. Also, the timing belt isn't aligned on the gears so that's concerning, may have to tear into it and see what's up with the tensioner and surrounding parts.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Theirs a guy that sells 55 gallon drums of E85 in Vancouver. He follows me on instagram.
I'll definitely look into that when the time comes, I got a few quotes from VP Racing for a drum and it came out to almost $8-9 a gallon so, I hope its cheaper lol. Otherwise, my only option is Jay's Garage downtown or driving down to Salem.
 

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I'll definitely look into that when the time comes, I got a few quotes from VP Racing for a drum and it came out to almost $8-9 a gallon so, I hope its cheaper lol. Otherwise, my only option is Jay's Garage downtown or driving down to Salem.
I’ll see if I can find out for you in the meantime. I’m no help when it comes to the wire harness and plugs. My car came with everything relocated so unfortunately I’m no help with that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I’ll see if I can find out for you in the meantime. I’m no help when it comes to the wire harness and plugs. My car came with everything relocated so unfortunately I’m no help with that.
No problem; a volt meter, wiring diagrams and a few beers and I'll have it worked out. Plus yeah, your engine bay is surgically clean, #goals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I will note, the ECU is just sitting on the floor board plugged in, the mount/shield is missing, does it need this for grounding purposes? I'll have a standalone later so I don't know that getting the OEM bracket is logical but, if I need it to be grounded and run this way, then I'll find one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
When you connect a jumper wire to te1 and e1 terminals in the engine bay diagnostic port does the car throw codes?
I haven't checked yet, the CEL doesn't light up at all when I turn the key to "ON" so that led me to the ECU and/or all of the hanging plugs and figured it would just throw tons of codes related to all of this. I'll try that and see what I get, seems like the most obvious next step anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Tried to jump TE1 and E1 but it doesn't light up at all. I swapped the EF1 and starter fuses and they do both work. Sounds like its leaning towards an ECU issue. I pulled it apart and it looked immaculate and new but, I guess you cant always see the issue if its not a badly leaking capacitor.

Referencing this thread: ECU Identification Numbers - Shows I have the correct ECU in place. If its the ECU to be replaced, I'm needing the 89661-14590 and those are now $1500+. I'd gladly get a stand alone instead but getting this running/tuned on an NA motor just to pass emissions is a big waste of cash.

So, I'm at a cross road between installing the JDM GTE ECU mod that I have everything for already or, finding another NA manual ECU. I think I can run an NA/Auto ECU if I doctor the neutral switch and make things cheaper. Just not sure what to do at the moment.

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Keep your eyes peeled for a used ECU or send to Relentless for a rebuild. I had a NA/manual ECU just a few months ago, it only fetched $200 so they go cheap.

Also, looking at the circuit boards it does not appear the enclosure does any grounding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I just paid $800 to have relentless rebuild my ecu. Simply not many usdm na manual ecus out there and the ones that are had caps fail.
Thought about it, was just hoping to avoid any wasted expense before going stand alone. I guess I could always sell the rebuilt ECU later too.

What differential was ran with 900hp? Assuming a TT. Before I found my car I was looking at getting an NA and building it from that platform but damn things add up fast
No idea, the entire drivetrain was removed before I got the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
So, I received a SC300 AT ECU and was able to plug it in and see the CEL light at "ON" and started it up for the first time. It still cranked quite a bit before it choked to life but it runs. I'm still waiting for the stock mid pipe from the previous owner so I only ran it open header for 10 seconds or so, it ran pretty rough for a first start. I tried pulling codes but when I jump TE1 and E1 it just constantly blinks, there's no pattern to count for codes. So that either means I have no codes which is impossible or, somethings wrong. Any ideas?

I also received the shifter bushing for the W58 and the full service manual for this year to help with all future projects and wiring.

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