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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Pulled the lower intake runners off, removed the plastic cover on the wiring harness. Going to run the wiring underneath the manifold. It was insanely difficult to remove the starter plug.

Unfortunately I rounded the fuel damper bolt so will have to get creative with removing that.
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Here you can see how I routed the coolant hose around the block. I chose to connect the throttle body coolant line together versus caping them using a 3/8 line.

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Got the BPA manifold in the mail and mounted up. Waiting on PHR lower radiator hose, as this one kinks when you rotate the lower thermostat housing.

Also got the FFIM all bolted down with the injectors and rail hooked up. Coming together slowly.
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Great progress :) I also removed the wiring plastic casing that runs between the intake manifold runners, so I could put the loom below the lower runners and run the injector wires up from below, so its way tidier...especially if you clock your injectors to face down on a diagonal angle.

Why is your lower radiator hose so kinked at the bend?
 

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Why is your lower radiator hose so kinked at the bend?
He probably needs to cut a few inches off so it will fit with the rotated water neck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 · (Edited)
Great progress :) I also removed the wiring plastic casing that runs between the intake manifold runners, so I could put the loom below the lower runners and run the injector wires up from below, so its way tidier...especially if you clock your injectors to face down on a diagonal angle.

Why is your lower radiator hose so kinked at the bend?
So I rotated the thermostat housing to make clearance for the manifold. This puts the lower hose in a crazy position. Even trimming it doesn't let it sit in the best position so I ordered the PHR replacement made for this.

***note, this hose and rotator doesnt work on the NA waterneck housing.

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I tried man but I'm not comfortable with how easy it can slide off the housing so I just ordered the phr one.

The last photo is with the hose trimmed.
Did you just shave off that little notch on the water neck or, how did you clock it down and bolt it up? My radiator hose currently sits up against the IC pipe and the DriftMotions adapter I got doesn't fit right :/
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Ended up not using the PHR hose and waterneck rotator as it doesnt fit the GE thermostat housing. Got the throttle cable hooked up, but had to make a custom bracket, which was easy with a piece of aluminum. Installed the PHR PS Relocation kit, which worked perfectly.
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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
The major component of this NA-T build would be the cam sensor kit. I know some are going to have their complaints about it, but it replicates the GTE cam sensor positioning so you can do the gte ecu mod, or go with a standalone with a GTE base map. Supra V World provides this kit along with my current Coil on Plug kit.
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Luckily, I already had a GTE oil pump so I skipped a lot of the modification portion of this kit, but from the video, its not too big of an ordeal. Got the cams installed and everything else was plug in play minus drilling holes in the front plastic cover, which I botched. I already previously installed the 36-2 crank gear so I kept that versus using the 12 tooth that I got with the Cam Kit.
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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Went ahead and swapped the second wastegate spring from the 14 psi to the 7 psi. I'm still high compression on the ge headgasket, so 7psi as base pressure should be solid for my goals.
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Also ordered one of the BTI gauges which is plug n play into my link g4x plug in ecu. Something to note for S2 RHD guys, you need to make sure you select the S2 analog clock gauge. I had to trim mine a bit still to fit the different panel types, but I got it fitted.

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Got the link g4x ecu installed. Grabbed mine from wiring specialties as they had it in stock. Paired it up with the TB Developments billet ecu cover, which fit nicely and means I dont have to disassemble a gte ecu for it's cover.
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Notice those white wires in the ecu plug. Those are from the COP and the CAM Kit. They slot right into the connector. Super easy. You dont even have to remove any wires.

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Annnnd the engine bay is pretty much done on my end. The car will get towed to the tuning shop for piping fabrication and standalone sensor installation along with the tune. Took advantage of the exchange rate and got a significant discount on all this work (Japan). Tune is scheduled for december so if all goes well, the car will be done before the end of the year. Just have to sort out a fuel leak at the filter from the new fuel line.
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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Car gets towed to the tuner tomorrow.

Sorted out the fuel pump today. Swapped over to the walbro 255, which should suit my current needs. Was quite easy to change the fuel pump.
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