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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well, i want to keep A/C in the swap. but on the wiring diagrams, it says the pins on the EA2 Female body connector are not used... it doesnt say "optional" it just flat out says Not Used w/ a big X in the box where the connector pin number goes. so i know what the wires are on the EA2 female connector. they apparantly control the AC compressor on the engine and allow it to communicate w/ the rest of the car.

has anyone deciphered where pins 4, 7, 8, and 9 go?

pin 4 = a/c speed sensor
pin 7 = a/c magnet relay 4
pin 8 = a/c speed sensor (again? :confused: )
pin 9 = a/c magnet relay 3

this sounds like all that is needed to allow the car to communicate w/ the AC compressor clutch. soooo... where do i hook these wires on the MA70 body wiring? anyone know off hand before i go sit down and get cozy w/ the TEWD for the MA70 and JZA70?

so far my EA2 female connector is 100% plug and play, complete w/ a scavenged 3 pin connector to allow easy connectivity w/ the MA70 alternator wiring.

for the time being, i just removed the entire pin and wire from the Jza70 EA2 female body connector that the wire diagram says is Unused; the 4 AC compressor switch wires.
 

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Lol, i JUST finished that step. The wires that you're looking for are located in the A/C magnetic clutch relay.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/Wiring/pages/Page_143.html

That relay is located on the drivers side frame, just behind the battery and fuse box. You can see that the wires match up for those.

If you need any more help, EMAIL me.

Bryan
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
emailed you a novel. i just need some clarification on whether or not to tap into existing wires on the MA70 or to cut them completely in 2, solder in the 1JZ wires and leave the MA70 wires flapping in the wind and dead-ends.
 

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i <3 supra
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anyone have a picture of this, i can't seem to get my a/c to work and its really starting to get to me, any help would be most appriciated :hug:
 

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I can get some pix of my setup. I just dont know how to post them.

this is pretty much what i did.

1-I took of the top half of the 7M A/C compressor and A/C magnet wire clip(Too make a jumper.).

2-Then i switch the top halfs, I took of the 1jz and switch it to the 7m one. It bolts rigth up perfecly (i did this so i can use the existing 7M A/C Lines). One problem when doing this setup is that your P/S Pump Bracket will touch A/C Line Bolt on top of the A/C Compressor. What i did is grind down the bracket. Also for those using the 2jz bolt to mount the 7m oil sender your going to have to relocated it (it interfers with the A/C Line). I relocated mine to where the 1jz oil warning ligth sender is.

3-The last problem that i face was the Intake side of the intercooler pipe. What i did is Loosen the intercooler so i can slide in the A/C line, Then i reinstall the intercooler pipe and finally just retigten the intercooler.

Wiring-

All i really did was wire in the original wire under the fuse box for the 7m compressor to Pin #9 of the 1JZ Fuse box (this is where i made the jumper, I used the original clip of the 7m compressor and solder it with the wire that comes out of the 1jz fuse box and then u just clip it in the original location).


Last-
To test the compressor i just bougth a retro fit kit to 134a since our cars are R-12, They sell a bottle that just lets you test out the compressor and to check for leaks.


Anymore question just feel free to ask and Sorry for the spelling and grammer. I just hope it helps out those that still want to keep there A/C.
I know i enjoy my A/C.


Robert.
 

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i <3 supra
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thanks for the help man, im probably gonna go get it all figured out tomorow or the next day :dunno:
 

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Not so boring anymore
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how much do you have to grind off the ps bracket to get the 7m lines to fit? I might do this.. its hot down here and I want ac bad! lol
 

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tissimo said:
how much do you have to grind off the ps bracket to get the 7m lines to fit? I might do this.. its hot down here and I want ac bad! lol

Not that much its very minimal, all i had was my dad's sander and it took me a half hour.
 

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OK, I just did this as well. Not too bad with a couple of notes:

1). the main bracket needs to be ground about 1/8" in the rear to clear the bolt for the low pressure hose. The grinding point is just in front of the threaded mounting hole and extends about an inch forward. The grind is at an angle with the deepest part at the mounting hole. If you mark the bracket about 1/8" in from the hole, 1/8" up from there and slope the line to meet the surface of the bracket 1" further, you will be close.
2). The stud for the AC compressor (top back mount) needs to be removed and replaced with a bolt instead. The stud sticks out about an inch and interferes with the 7M head on the compressor. The downside of this is that if you need to remove the compressor, you will have to evacuate the system and remove the 7M head in order to get to the bolt.
3). You will need to run a seperate ground for the compressor clutch. The ground for the 1JZ is on the 1JZ head and the ground for the 7M is on the compressor body. I soldered a wire to the ground for the compressor clutch and ran it to the 1JZ head.
4). Fitment - the high pressure line runs along the frame and causes the downpipe for the intake (output of the intercooler) to bow out. It can be forced back and the elbow will connect to the intake, but it ain't pretty.
5). Fitment - mating the low pressure line to the line in front of the condensor is a royal pain. It took alot of work to get the thing to line up. The line really needs to be bent out a little in order to mate up properly, but it did work.

I kept my system R12 since that is what works best and I have the equipment needed already. I recommend adding 2 oz. of oil into the compressor before attaching the lines to the compressor. I do this on any rebuild. A little extra oil will not hurt anything, but too little will kill the compressor. I used 3GS 150 Viscosity refigerant oil for this.

So far, no leaks and it's COLD!!!


Marty
 

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Not so boring anymore
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cool.. thanks for heads up.. will be attempting this over the next week.. ahh cant wait to get it working again..
 

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Thanks Marty, I forgot to metion the bolt problem with the top half. Also i retro fit it my A/C to 134a and i have to agree with marty it be best to keep R-12 because its much colder. Mine tends to stop throwing cold air when i pull up to a red ligth supposibly is due too 134a being a much thicker freon than R-12.



Robert.
 

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single 1j
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so the 7m compressor can fit the 1jz w/ some grinding? i don't understand. i thought people just get the lines to fit the 1jz ac compressor.
 

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yeah thats me!
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any 2j guys have anything to say about their AC setups? is it similar to the 1j setup...

i havent got into the wiring harness yet but plan on it in the next few weeks.

-ian
 

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slidingsidewayz said:
so the 7m compressor can fit the 1jz w/ some grinding? i don't understand. i thought people just get the lines to fit the 1jz ac compressor.
There are two different ways to do this, both use the 1JZ compressor. One method uses the 1JZ head for the 1JZ compressor (the head is the thing that mounts to the top of the compressor with 4 allen head screws) and one uses the 7M head.

I outlined the procedure to use the 7M head and the AC lines that match to it with the 1JZ compressor.

HamsMkIII mentioned he used the 1JZ compressor, 1JZ head and took the lines for the 1JZ and had new hoses mated to them. I think he used the fittings for the head from the front of the hose and where the ac hooks up the the condensor and return, he used the 7M fittings. I like that idea alot more, as you don't have to grind brackets...

If you ask Hams real nice, he would probably tell you exactly how he did it...

Marty
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
im interested in finding this out... cuz ive got the AC relays and connector under the fuse box, but id rather not have to cut and splice if i can just remove a harness and transplant the entire thing into the ma70 car.

as far as the actual lines go, i did a writeup on using the 1jz compressor and the 7m top plate w/ 7m lines. the 7M lines fit for the most part. but for the rear line to fit onto the 1j, you have to grind off one of the fins on the 1j oil filter pedestal.
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
yeah, bryan emailed me some info way back in the day when i did my first swap... but ive forgotten what i did since then... and my psycho exgf hacked into my email account and deleted ALL my emails, including the ones i saved from Bryan.

there are only 4 wires that need to be hooked up from the EA2. i was planning on keeping the stock 1jz ac compressor and the stock 1jz head. i know a guy who is a godsend when it comes to custom hoses and tubes. im confident he can make some custom AC lines to connect the 1jz head to the ma70. so, its basically just a matter of figuring out which wires i have to cut and solder

i was hoping on just removing a whole harness from the halfcut and transplanting it into the ma70... but i dont think thatll work due to different sensor locatoins and whatnot.
 
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