Supra Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,249 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
a few questions for the gurus

1) I knew it burned oil when i bought it, but now it appears that the supra also is going through coolant. Those and the waterfall noise behind the dash tells me that I've become victimized by the BHG. I'm no mechanic, but I've got a friend who works at a Toyota/Mercedes dealership as a mechanic who said he'd do the top end of the motor for $500 plus parts. While he's doing the head gasket (and most likely valve seals), what else should i replace? I'm going with a MHG and ARP bolts (or studs, which should i go with) so the fucker doesn't ever blow again.

2) I noticed today that my blow off valve sounds like it's "fluttering." instead of a nice "pssssh" it's going "pstststs" if you can understand. everything on this car is stock. should i be worried?

3) sometimes i can turn they key all the way to crank in order to start the key and hold it there for a couple seconds before the starter kicks in. is this normal?

4) i get some shakes on the highway at about 100 and beyond. as this pic shows :

my car sits sky high stock. would a good set of springs correct this problem? what's a good spring that doesn't make the car too stiff, so driving is still enjoyable? should i say "fuck off" and pull the TEMS out or find something that works with it (i personally enjoy the option).

5) while the car is being fixed this winter, i was going to pull out the climate control, the dash, and all the buttons to change the bulbs. maybe even change the colors (ala bishops car) to a nice blue/green to match my stereo (and exterior). where's a good reference to find the equipment and parts i'll need? electrical is one thing i AM good at, so this'll be the easiest part for me.

6) i also am going to change the boost gauge and replace it with a volt gauge (thanks mike92lx!). what's a good boost gauge that will match the looks of my stock gauges? i'd also like to put a 2 gauge a-pillar pod in, what other guage should i run? maybe go with a 3-pod and put two other gauge? keep in mind that i plan on bumping up the boost and doing some work. i plan on hitting about 320 horses to the wheels (i want to kill my auto tranny so i can switch to a manual :) ).

7) my rear wiper barely hits half of the window but the blade looks fine. any easy fixes for this one?

8) again, at high speeds (over 100) when the car is shaking a bit the dash makes a funny rattle noise. irritating, but i'd rather be sure nothing's truly fucked up. any ideas?

9) my Toyo tires fucking suck. they've got shitty wet traction (feels like ice) and have a lot of road noise. what's a good alternative? dry traction is most important, not being a sled on wet surfaces would be nice, and decreasing the road noise would be a godsend. i really like the stock wheels so i don't think i want to go with anything bigger right now.

10) i couldn't think of anything more. ten is just such a round number, don't you agree?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,907 Posts
Nocheez said:
1) I knew it burned oil when i bought it, but now it appears that the supra also is going through coolant. Those and the waterfall noise behind the dash tells me that I've become victimized by the BHG. I'm no mechanic, but I've got a friend who works at a Toyota/Mercedes dealership as a mechanic who said he'd do the top end of the motor for $500 plus parts. While he's doing the head gasket (and most likely valve seals), what else should i replace? I'm going with a MHG and ARP bolts (or studs, which should i go with) so the fucker doesn't ever blow again.
First find out why it is burning oil. Bad turbo? really bad valve stem seals? Worn rings? Also keep in mind that the surface of the block will probably need attention (lapping or machining) in order to ensure a good seal with the MHG. If that's going to be too much work, use a stock gasket properly torqued (its good enough for 325rwhp as long as the car is running properly).


2) I noticed today that my blow off valve sounds like it's "fluttering." instead of a nice "pssssh" it's going "pstststs" if you can understand. everything on this car is stock. should i be worried?

Replace it either with a stocker (expensive and not worth it), a porsche-spec bosche bypass valve (cheap, but can make annoying hooting sound), or with an aftermarket blow-off valve. If you go with an aftermarket bov, you may experience occasional stalling problems when you let off the gas abruptly (exiting a freeway etc). A bad bypass valve or bov will either leak, or it will not do a good enough job of venting -- this last case will cause compressor surge (bad for turbo)


3) sometimes i can turn they key all the way to crank in order to start the key and hold it there for a couple seconds before the starter kicks in. is this normal?

No it isn't normal, but I haven't heard of the problem before. There is a starter issue which has a fix on www.supras.com (search the SOGI tech tips)


4) i get some shakes on the highway at about 100 and beyond. as this pic shows :

my car sits sky high stock. would a good set of springs correct this problem? what's a good spring that doesn't make the car too stiff, so driving is still enjoyable? should i say "fuck off" and pull the TEMS out or find something that works with it (i personally enjoy the option).

Depends on what is causing the problems. According to Larry_A, a number of his 89+ friends have commented on how they tend to get a little wobble at speeds. In 86.5-88 models, the suspension had a steering dampener. It could also be a bad alignment, worn bushings, out-of-round tires, poorly balanced wheels, or a host of other issues. As for the springs/shocks issue, search as there are a number of threads with people's experiences. Suprasport.com also has a feedback section under their springs/shocks -- so you might find some valuable information there.


5) while the car is being fixed this winter, i was going to pull out the climate control, the dash, and all the buttons to change the bulbs. maybe even change the colors (ala bishops car) to a nice blue/green to match my stereo (and exterior). where's a good reference to find the equipment and parts i'll need? electrical is one thing i AM good at, so this'll be the easiest part for me.

Dunno, sorry. I'd ask bishop nicely. I think Shawndude was going to do something like that as well.


6) i also am going to change the boost gauge and replace it with a volt gauge (thanks mike92lx!). what's a good boost gauge that will match the looks of my stock gauges? i'd also like to put a 2 gauge a-pillar pod in, what other guage should i run? maybe go with a 3-pod and put two other gauge? keep in mind that i plan on bumping up the boost and doing some work. i plan on hitting about 320 horses to the wheels (i want to kill my auto tranny so i can switch to a manual :) ).

I'd search around and find gauges that you like. I believe VDO and Omori make some black-faced gauges, but the fonts are slightly different. For your other gauge, I would recomend an EGT. If you get a three-pillar pod, the third gauge would be an A/F ratio gauge (but this is basically just a dancing light unless you have a wideband o2). Other gauges which would be nice include a real coolant temperature gauge, and a real oil pressure gauge (both the stock ones leave much to be desired). An oil temperature gauge is never a bad idea either.


7) my rear wiper barely hits half of the window but the blade looks fine. any easy fixes for this one?

Assuming the wiper is swiping the entire area it is meant to, I would look at either the spring, or the blade. I have not found a wiperblade that lasts longer than 1 year due to the temperature range I see (20 degree winter, 120degree summer). Personally, I just removed my rear wiper and use Rain-X. Works well IMHO


8) again, at high speeds (over 100) when the car is shaking a bit the dash makes a funny rattle noise. irritating, but i'd rather be sure nothing's truly fucked up. any ideas?

Do you have a targa? Is this shake with targa on or off?


9) my Toyo tires fucking suck. they've got shitty wet traction (feels like ice) and have a lot of road noise. what's a good alternative? dry traction is most important, not being a sled on wet surfaces would be nice, and decreasing the road noise would be a godsend. i really like the stock wheels so i don't think i want to go with anything bigger right now.

I like Khumo ecsta Supra (712's). They are inexpensive, wear well, and work wonders in the rain. Their dry performance isn't stellar though (its decent, just not anything to write home about)
 

·
Canada, Eh?
Joined
·
2,397 Posts
:bigthumb: ma71supraturbo for answering all the questions, very good info.

and nocheez, nice car, i hope you get everything worked out!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,249 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Enraged said:
:bigthumb: ma71supraturbo for answering all the questions, very good info.

and nocheez, nice car, i hope you get everything worked out!
quoted for truth. thanks for the fast replies. no it's not a targa, it's got the sunroof (you can make it out in the pic).

we suspect valve seals are bad because it was in dry arizona heat for 8 years. but i think it's got the BHG. i go through a half quart about every 800 miles, and have went through a couple quarts of coolant in the past month.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,823 Posts
your dash probably makes that noise because the car shakes at high speeds, and something is probably loose inside the dash, so when you put in the gauges and such, and take out the heater control, look around for loose parts or missing screws (also look deep in the dash, i know i had some missing screws and some things were randomly hanging down in there as some guy decided hed try to fix something but jsut messed it up more before i got my car)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
314 Posts
Your starter problem sounds similiar to a problem I had. The SOGI tip says to replace the contacts on the starter. After replacing the contacts on two different starters and still not solving the problem I replaced the battery cable from the battery to the starter. The cable looked good but after cutting the casing off I found a few spots where the cable was very thin (Wisconsin salt?) Have'nt had a problem since.
If this is your problem it will get worse and worse, slowly. As the motor gets hotter it takes more power to crank the starter.

HTH Dennis
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,249 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
crafty said:
Your starter problem sounds similiar to a problem I had. The SOGI tip says to replace the contacts on the starter. After replacing the contacts on two different starters and still not solving the problem I replaced the battery cable from the battery to the starter. The cable looked good but after cutting the casing off I found a few spots where the cable was very thin (Wisconsin salt?) Have'nt had a problem since.
If this is your problem it will get worse and worse, slowly. As the motor gets hotter it takes more power to crank the starter.

HTH Dennis
it only happens once in a great while, usually after stopping for gas after 5 minutes of driving. it always fires up after the pause, and usually starts better than normal. i figured it was a feature of the car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
314 Posts
Yeah, it's only once in awhile NOW!!! Just wait till your at the gas station.....got three cars lined up behind you.......and you can't start the damn car!!!! (Personal Experience)

Good Luck

Dennis
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,823 Posts
Both Studs and head bolts from ARP will work ok .. but one thing to remember is that with the Studs .. the engine must be removed to remove the head once the head studs are installed. The studs require the head to be lifted over them to remove a head .. and long before you clear the studs the head has major interferrence with the firewall.

My bucks are always on arp head bolts vs studs for this reason.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,249 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Kracin said:

My bucks are always on arp head bolts vs studs for this reason.
thanks!

about my start problem, where exactly should i start looking for corrosion? it's gotten worse overnight (the temperature went from 70's to 30's in a little over a day) and i want to make sure i can get it to the mechanic :)
 

·
No One Ever Listens To Me
Joined
·
5,467 Posts
Kracin said:
Both Studs and head bolts from ARP will work ok .. but one thing to remember is that with the Studs .. the engine must be removed to remove the head once the head studs are installed. The studs require the head to be lifted over them to remove a head .. and long before you clear the studs the head has major interferrence with the firewall.

My bucks are always on arp head bolts vs studs for this reason.
contrary to popular belief ..this is not true...i have head studs and with a friend and a little bit of patience i have taken the head off while the engine is still in the car......

the studs ARE more fundamentally sound and a better design and although there is nothing wrong with the head bolts....studs are the winning choice IMO.

the hardest part with the studs is finding that "magic socket" as i have dubbed mine. theres only one damn socket in the whole world that will go into the area of the head so you can torque the nutes down! lol.....dont ask me what it is all i know is i have it lol.....someone on here told me the exact one i needed it and i got it and bam! lol

i think ma71 answered the rest of your questions rather well...you most need to pay attention toe the first reply

1) about how the block WILL need attention when replacing the bhg if you put a MHG in.........for a MHG to seal properly the surface of the head AND block basically need to be a mirror finish...some people use sandpaper and lap it others such as myself.....do it the compltely correct way and break down the block and have it machined and then lap if necessary...... if you dont do anything with the block..ESPECIALLY since it seems youve been driving around with the bhg...you will no doubt have another bhg and a wasted MHG on your hands......... and dont forget to torque to at least 70lbs...72 lbs is about optimum but a lot of people go even as high as 85lbs.

2) ummm the bov fluttering thing.....is most like a bad stock bov..yes they are expensive from the dearlship but not if you can find one used...i have one for sale if you want it.perfectly good. as far as compressor surge.....ALL bovs will give you some type of it and it is not entirely bad for the turbo. if you have it at low boost its fine as that is normal. at high boost however is where compressor surge will destroy your turbo over time. just thought i would elaborate on ma71s words there.

6)as far as your guages go..like ma71 said.look around to find what you like...along with the vdo and omori guages ma71 mentioned autometer makes good guages(no arguements from the peanut gallery please lol) and they have some that match the stock guages rather well... i have autometer sport comp guages....silver bezel black face white leterring in just about the same font...
find what you like. and i would say get the boost youll have the voltmeter and get an egt and a/f...and actually if you have BOTH the egt and a/f yuo can tell a lot about whats going on in your car. but if you just have the a/f then it is basically a "dancing light" lol.....oil pressure is a good one also along with fuel pressure.

9) yep i was gonna say the same thing ma71 did.....kumho ecsta supras.....they named them that for a reason ;)

3) this is usually related to a starter problem...like on the sogi site they say the contacts.....i know a couple of people who had the same problem..tried to fix it about one hundred times and nothing worked for long....the best solution....buy one of those button push starters as they bypass most of the ignition wires which seems to be where the problem might lie.....hook that up and sue that to start your car. youll see no more problems if indeed what you are describing is the same as what ive seen and heard about.

8)like said before...maybe something loose inside.are you sure its the dash? i know the hatches LOVE to rattle around especially at higher speeds. if it is the dash maybe its something your glovebox chillin? i know it sounds stupid but ive seen it before lol.

5) agreed ask bishop.....IIRC its something like 24 or 26 LEDs that need to be take off the stock climate control and then soldered back in with the chosen bulbs. however i also rememebr him saying that blue would be near impossible as the directed wattage isnt enough to support a blue hue or something to that effect. i believe he said a seperate circuit could be created to accomplish this but it would take more then the average joe to do so.

7) it might be the spring it might the actual blade.....youd be surprised how fucked up blades that look"GOOD" really are........i suggest replacnig it and seeing what happens.....

4) the possibilities with this question are endless really........ma71 stated most of them...the basic thing you need to think about is wheres the rattling coming from? if its something to do with your front tires it will come through the steering wheel...if its something to do with the back tires it will usually be felt through the seat and the pedals.....check your current suspension setup to make sure nothing is blown and check your camber on your tires to make sure its all aligned correctly.....a nice fresh alignment couldnt hurt either....

10) yes

hehe wow that was a lot of typing...i think between myself and ma71's post you have about all the answers you can actually get lol

happy fixing! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,249 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
very much appreciated idealsupra! the guy who would be doing my engine is very knowledgable with this sort of thing, so i'll just ask him what he thinks is best and let him know my worries. most of the other stuff is "little things" that i'd like to have working correctly. it's funny, but if i just crank up the stereo all my worries go away. maybe just the little things sound worse because i turn down the radio and hear everything so much louder now.

anyways, i'll keep everyone updated with the progress. next spring should be pretty fun!
 

·
Be original, not a copy
Joined
·
861 Posts
ARP studs now have an allen hole in the end of the stud so that you can remove them fairly easily should you need to pull the head again. They are the better choice over the bolts. As for the starter issue, because of the location of the stock starter solenoid (on the starter) resistance builds up pretty fast, especially when hot. The stock wiring also has built up resistance. Running a start switch bypasses most of the wiring but I ** think ** it bypasses the starter relay as well which defeats the stock TDS. Running a remote solenoid (up near the battery where it will stay relatively cool) has fixed every starting problem on all the cars that have it. On the dash rattle if it is not in the "center" area then make sure that the ECU(s) are secured well, the lower screws on the glovebox hinges are tight, the air temp sensor for the a/c (behind the passenger side "vent panel thing" is tight, and the instrument cluster has all of the screws installed.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top