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· Moderator, l337 M0d3r4t0r
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fuck the line pressure... jsut some good clutches and shimmingthe acumulators will work fine
the whole single problem with teh a340e is it tries to shift smooth while doing that it burns up the clutch packs and thust ends the life of the trans.

btw i think if you look in the mk3 tech section there is something there about making the a auto last.
 

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the whole single problem with teh a340e is it tries to shift smooth while doing that it burns up the clutch packs and thust ends the life of the trans.

btw i think if you look in the mk3 tech section there is something there about making the a auto last.
Precisely why a shift kit is recommended. A tighter shift avoids the smooth shift, saves your clutches and adds performance.

mkIIracer,
were your clutches up to the battle in either transmission? They could have been worn from the get go. The other mandatory mod (IMO) is a bigger tranny cooler.
Heat is your biggest enemy in an auto. When you run more than stock HP, you subject your tranny to more heat.
Anything less=premature failure. The fact that I've been running mine with significantly more HP for 7 years since the last rebuild is no secret.
 

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u dont need to upgrade the valve body to get that quick shift... if u just shim the accumulators (or do like mine and completely disable them from moving all togather) it will make the shifts very very fast and take the load off the transmission, but it will make the shifts very rough.. which will be more and more noticable on partial throttle shifts. WOT will feel fairly normall.. just no lag... with 300+ whp expect to chirp 3rd.

like everyone else has said... a big tranny cooler is whats going to make the tranny last past that... power rarely breaks automatics. just heat heat heat. this becomes more and more important when your drag racing... standing on the brake really really heats up the tranny,,,, like say... a hundred degrees in a couple seconds. i'll end up running a 3000 stall and i expect it to hold up wiht 500 ft lbs... i dunno how long it would last on nitrous... but the stall is staying fairly low because the car will be daily driven
 

· Formerly Nosechunks
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1,124 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
ok, more setups for more people.

discussion is always good, but the point of this thread is to post setups with timeslips or horsepower ratings to see what works. not trying to step on anyones toes i just wana see some more setups.
 

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I vote for sticky....

I've shied away from autos as I'm a purist, but in a straight line they can't be beat... If I build a drag car, it will have an auto, and i don't want a chevy trans in my toyota beast...
 

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What about racing from a roll? I would think a manual is better in that case, is that true?
 

· Street Sleeper
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What about racing from a roll? I would think a manual is better in that case, is that true?
Autos are good for brake boosting which is good for racing from a stop or a roll, you can brake boost in a manual on a roll also. Autos just eliminate human error from the equation I have missed a gear many times while trying to shift quickly with an R154 its not the easyest box to do quick changes with. Also with an auto there is no break in power because of full power upshifts unlike the 1/2 second it takes to shift with a manual.
 

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Here's a noob question buttmunch, but what is "brake boosting?"
 

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Applying the throttle and beake at the same time to build boost befor you launch. So you basically can launch or pull from the speed your at with full boost dialed in.
Guess it was self-explanatory, but I just wanted to make sure. Thanks!
 

· when this baby hits 88mph
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i had mine built by php about 4yrs ago.

it has blue clutches, kolene steels, kevlar bands, upgraded valve body, shimmed accumulators, heat treated splines, and a 4200 stall converter. also have increased line pressure due to mods as well as LPC adjustment. lastly, a B&M cooler was fitted.

the most so far ive put thru it is 419rwtq. going to dyno the new setup soon and anxious to see how it does.
 
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