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Discussion Starter #1
Mods: AEM WBo2 sensor Walboro255 580cc Simens Injectors AFPR/w fuel pressure gauge 2.5" hardpipes Lexus AFM and all the necessary internal mods ARP head studs MHG.

Symptoms: The car wont start, but if I have someone hold a folded rag over the intake to the AFM (theres no filter currently on it) the car will start but run very rough as well the boost gauge showed 0 not vacuum and off the WB lean. I pulled off the AFM connection and removed the IC hose from the throttle body and the car started and reved from 1000rpm to 3000rpm and then back down to 1000rpm. During the time the car was reving up to 3000rpm the boost gauge showed proper vacuum as per TSRM and showed 13.5 to 14.7 on the WB.

What I have done so far:

Changed: AFM, TPS, coil packs, igniter, cps.

Cleaned and checked continuity for the fuse box in the cabin and under the hood

I also checked continuity between the TPS to ecu, AFM to ecu, coil pack to igniter, cps to ecu, and igniter to ecu.

I checked the tps, ecu, afm, coil packs, and igniter as per TSRM.

My theory: If the AFM is working properly and I am getting spark and fuel and firing at relatively the proper time then what would make me run so lean and not pull any vacuum. I assume there must be a place where more air is getting in to make it run lean, but then how does that explain the no vacuum?

WHAT THE F IS WRONG PLEASE HELP!

SF vets please help me I would appreciate any comments or suggestions.

Thanks

Dave
 

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checked all vaccum lines? made sure their are no leaks after the throttle body?

when did this problem arise, what was the last thing you did before it started?

edit - what was the last thing you did before this problem started, not before the car started lol
 

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Just today I reran all the vacuum lines and took the intake manifold off as well as the upper intake plenum.

I then put brand new toyota gaskets in between both the lower intake manifold and the head as well as the lower intake manifold and upper intake plenum. I torqued them both to 13ft-lbs as per TSRM.

I pulled off all IC lines and re ran them after checking all elbows for leaks in a bucket of water.

Thanks for the questions they help me to remember what I have checked and not checked.

I let the car sit for a year before it sat it ran perfectly except the stock IC hoses need to be replaced. After letting it sit for a year I replaced the IC hoses and then started to replace parts as i could afford to try to replace everything excluding the engine.
 

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I love this car and have worked on checking everything I can think of as per TSRM I have the service manual and the wiring diagram manual. Please let me know if there is anything else I should be checking.

Thanks SF
 

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you have a huge leak of meatered air somewhere in you system. i really dont understand how you would have no vaccum if the car is running. all internal combustion engines creat vaccum while running, unless under full throttle and even than if n/a for best performance you would actually like 1 to1.5 inches of vaccum. i would check every ic hose. and if possible while the motor is running spray area's where you think the is a leak with break cleaner, if there is a leak you will read a little more rich on the WB and the motor will rev up a little by burning the break cleaner. but it might be a little hard on vaccume lines so i'd be smart and not spray it every where like a mad man
 

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Discussion Starter #7
To finalize this thead. The problem was solved by setting the TPS as per TSRM and buying an EFI temp sensor and then buying a timing gun and setting the timing as per TSRM. Because the injectors are so large the ECU has trouble at idle somtimes rich somtimes lean but driving there is no issues and when tuned to 12.5 a/f the car pulls very very hard. Thanks to 155psi in each cylinder 4.30 gears and a nice custom ct-26 turbo.

thanks for the help and ideas.

Dave
 
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