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i noticed the gauge comes with red wire, white, black and blue. what is the blue wire for?
thanks
thanks
AEM wideband UEGO install help
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i thought the white wire was for illumination. so i still need to tap to an o2 sensor even though the kit has its own. i allready have the wideband bung on my downipe so i thought it would be plug n play.
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KumiJr said:
my problem is i have no idea what 0-5 v output and serial output means. lol
haha.Urban Customs said:
Well, the 0-5v output is to connect directly to another wire to go to your wiring harness that plugs to your AEM, motec, etc.
The serial output means you need to connect that wire to a serial PC plug. It has I believe 9 wires, and then you use that plug to connect it to a laptop. You also need to make a ground wire too to make that plug to work. I can try copying the AEM manual with the picture if it helps you. What the hell are you trying to do?
:gaysex:
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Seeing your local.... why dont you just call me???? Id answer all of your questions for ya!!
Lar
630 205 6690!!!!
Lar
630 205 6690!!!!
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Ya, it's definitely not illumination. The AEM gage uses a little sensor on the face that measures the ambient light and adjusts the display automatically.
As for the 0-5 Volt output, you may or may not use this at all. If you're still using the stock ECU there's no need for this. If you're using a programmable ECU you use the 0-5V output as an input to your ECU so it knows what the air/fuel ratio is. Or, if you're using a stock ECU, but data logging, you can use the 0-5V output in to your logger.
The blue (serial) output is used when you want to log data with a portable device (laptop/PDA). I'm guessing that AEM also interfaces with the gage to upload new firmware or things of that nature. But if you're just needing a gage to look at, then you don't need to do anything with the blue or white wires. Just tape them off so they don't ground to anything.
As for the 0-5 Volt output, you may or may not use this at all. If you're still using the stock ECU there's no need for this. If you're using a programmable ECU you use the 0-5V output as an input to your ECU so it knows what the air/fuel ratio is. Or, if you're using a stock ECU, but data logging, you can use the 0-5V output in to your logger.
The blue (serial) output is used when you want to log data with a portable device (laptop/PDA). I'm guessing that AEM also interfaces with the gage to upload new firmware or things of that nature. But if you're just needing a gage to look at, then you don't need to do anything with the blue or white wires. Just tape them off so they don't ground to anything.
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Sound Performance said:
thanks. i just came in today and mike got one for me. jon actually helped me figure out how to install it. we all know im horrible with electronic wiring as you saw my fuel pump and engine bay setup.
i guess i dont use the blue and white since im stock ecu.
Used search and brought back this old thread instead of starting a new one............ I have a N/A supra with a TT aristo swap running AEM series 2. I have a Aem uego wideband gauge as well but the blue serial wire wasn't hooked up to the harness going to the ECU. I need help finding the correct wire to tap into. I was told it was Pin 45 or 47 of the B portion of the harness. Correct?? Also i am wondering if this will help correct my cold start issues?? Thanks.
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The blue serial wire does not hook to the ECU, it is for datalogging on a laptop, so loop it and tape it. The white wire should be connected to 47B (O2#1) but can be connected to 48B as well, would just need some reprogramming in aemtuner so it knows where to look for it.
And this wont help cold starts, typically O2 correction doesnt happen till its almost warmed up.
Are you having a start/die problem, or just difficulty with it staying running on startup. It took me about a week to get it to run on its own, not quite factory, but idles high and comes down like it should.
And this wont help cold starts, typically O2 correction doesnt happen till its almost warmed up.
Are you having a start/die problem, or just difficulty with it staying running on startup. It took me about a week to get it to run on its own, not quite factory, but idles high and comes down like it should.
Thanks for the reply. They car will start but its just really rough and spudders. It's seems to be really rich on start up. If I have my foot on the gas while starting it seems to start a little better. I am having the car retuned once I get my transmission finished up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0_Dg6yZU_8
Here is a video I did about a month ago.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0_Dg6yZU_8
Here is a video I did about a month ago.
not a single instruction was read that day?
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=aem+uego+wideband+installation+instructions
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http://lmgtfy.com/?q=aem+uego+wideband+installation+instructions
my bad i didnt read really of the posts. the original post rustled my jimmies because he could have saved serious amounts of time by googling it.
unless you have a standalone ecu or some kind of electronic device that will read wideband data off serial output, you dont need the blue wire hooked up. likewise with the white wire which is almost strictly for the ecu to read o2 sensor data for feedback. you might be able to hook it up to 47b but i think you should assume the aem o2 sensor and the denso/bosch/oem o2 sensor is different (meaning 2.5volts may be different AFR between the two)
unless you have a standalone ecu or some kind of electronic device that will read wideband data off serial output, you dont need the blue wire hooked up. likewise with the white wire which is almost strictly for the ecu to read o2 sensor data for feedback. you might be able to hook it up to 47b but i think you should assume the aem o2 sensor and the denso/bosch/oem o2 sensor is different (meaning 2.5volts may be different AFR between the two)
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