Since the product is so universal, there isn't a whole lot of instruction they can give you. Basically you take a fitting from the front of your fuel rail and run the line to one of the side ports of the AFPR. Then from there run another line from the bottom port of the AFPR and on down to the fuel return back to the tank.
Well, you're right about most of that but I don't know how to actually adjust the unit and I don't know what this front that's teflon pasted in is. I checked aeromotive's website and I didn't see any instructions, so if you could scan yours it would be much appreciated.
Once you have it installed and not leaking anywhere, it's time to set the fuel pressure. Hook up your fuel pressure gauge to the side port by using the appropriate standard sized allen wrench to remove that circular plug. Once that is out, just screw the gauge in with a little teflon paste on the threads. Now you can set your fuel pressure.
Next, start the car and remove the vacuum hose on the AFPR and plug the hose with your finger. Read the fuel pressure gauge once your car has reached warm idle. At idle with the vauum hose off the fuel pressure should be between 33-40psi. If it isn't... then you adjust the fuel pressure with the allen head screw on top. Again, use the appropriate standard sized allen wrench. Clockwise rasies fuel pressure, counter clockwise lowers it. I aimed for 36.5psi which is right in the middle of that range. Now put the vacuum line back on the AFPR and the fuel pressure should drop down to between 23-30psi. Tighten the nut on top down and your finished. Good luck!
Here's a quick tip... You can do this to get your pressure close enough before starting. After installing the fpr, put a jumper (paperclip, or anything else electrically conductive) between the fp and +b contacts on the diagnostic connector. This will trigger the fuel pump, so you can set the pressure without worry of being way too high or way too low.
Rebuilding my 7M. It all started with turbo oil seals leaking, and from there to full build
I’m on one of the things that I’m changing is the oil pump considering my stock Pump has close to 120k
Since I can’t find the pump spring kit which includes the secondary internal spring and shim
I have tools, a friend group ready to work on a project, and a backup car. I know nothing about these and to my suprise they are pretty cheap in my area. What are the major issues with these when buying used?ShowBox – Download ShowBox App APK Free for Android, iOS & PC
Hello from Serbia!
Recently I bought a 1986 Supra 3.0 N/A from a friend. The car hasn't been driven for the past 7 years, and prior to putting it in storage he rebuilt the engine after a head gasket failure. The car ran perfectly at the time, and was parked in perfect working condition.
I opened up the blown 7mgte to find some crazy damage. Part of a rod went through the block. I'm not sure what kind of damage the head takes when something major like that happens but I'm hoping the head is re useable....after taking her off it looks pretty good to the eye but I'm not sure. Now...