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SuperWhiteNinetyTwoMeat
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Discussion Starter #1
Im going with an aftermarket radiator and I am tring to figure out what size transmission oil cooler to go with and what brand. Also I would like one with the right size attachments so the hoses hook straight to the stock metal lines. Thanks.
 

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When I upgraded to a Fluidyne rad I used a B&M Supercooler (oil/transmission cooler). To install it I removed the driver's side fog light and used the hardware it came with to make some brackets. I just used the fog light mounting spots and bolts and hooked up the hoses that it came with. Just make sure your tranny fluid is right and you're done.

Here's a link to some at Summit.

B&M SuperCoolers

A pic of the one I used but I can't remember the model number.

 

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SuperWhiteNinetyTwoMeat
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Discussion Starter #5
What about a Hayden cooler of this size?

GVW (GROSS VEHICLE WEIGHT) RATING IS TO 22,000 LBS.
15 7/8" LONG
7 1/2" HIGH
3/4" THICK
HEAVY DUTY TOWING TO 5,000 LBS.
 

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jdmk3_87t said:
nice cooling parts...how much did that all run you?
It's been a while (03-04) but I'll try to list them:

Fluidyne was a little less than $500 from Suprasport shipped.
B&M SuperCooler was $50. I bought it off a forum member from a differant car site.
Flex-a-Lite fans were $200 from a local Checkers.
Redline Watter wetter was $10.
Polished Rad pipe was $20 from a Supraforums member.
Lower rad hose was around $30 from Toyota.
Prestone Dex-cool was around $12

It's been so long I had to guess on a few of these...hehe.


Twigger said:
What about a Hayden cooler of this size?

GVW (GROSS VEHICLE WEIGHT) RATING IS TO 22,000 LBS.
15 7/8" LONG
7 1/2" HIGH
3/4" THICK
HEAVY DUTY TOWING TO 5,000 LBS.
Those dimensions seem bigger than the cooler I had so it should be fine. And to connect the cooler to the metal lines I used the rubber hoses that came with the cooler. It did come with some different sized fittings but I just used the ones that were already on the cooler. Hope this helps.
 

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Anyone tried the Fluidyne oil trans cooler?
 
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Virtually any aftermarket trans cooler will be more efficient than the original in-tank oil-to-water cooler. However, trying to find one that will bolt directly up to the original steel lines will be next to impossible. Due to the many different thread sizes and fitting types, most coolers (including our FLUIDYNE coolers) come with "universal" threaded fittings, or push-on hose barbs. Here at FLUIDYNE we recommend our MultiFlow coolers. We have a 6 pass unit, part number FHP10026 which works well for the majority of applications, and retails for $29.95, or as an upgrade, we have a 9 pass unit (part number FHP10029) which we recommend for pickups, vehicles used for towing, and for vehicles with high stall converters. It retails for $39.95. Both of these have 11/32 slip-on hose barbs, all you will need is a couple of short lengths of hose to connect from the steel lines to the cooler.
 

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Buddy thought I had a NA
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i just used a b&m trans cooler formy oil nice and big but not to big
 

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gt3000fa, I don't realy care what people have to say about electric fans, only my own experiece with them, basically, if you live in an area where the ambient temp. does not go over 95, your fine, but if your in Las Vegas, El Paso, ect..forget it...I had two Zirgos pulling almost 5000 cfms and they couldn't do the job especialy with the AC on, that is when the temp outsied was over a hundred, on the otherhand, I could run all day with no problem when the temp outside was 85, and thats with the AC...As to the difference, I could definetly feel the horsepower gain with the electrics, so you know it took a lot to go back to OEM...Also, if you do go electric, make sure you use 25/30 amp circuit breakers and NOT fuses, if theres a problem the breakers will come back on after turning off, the fuses die, thus leading to a dead fan which leads to a BHG...Good luck...
 

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pramiscal said:
gt3000fa, I don't realy care what people have to say about electric fans, only my own experiece with them, basically, if you live in an area where the ambient temp. does not go over 95, your fine, but if your in Las Vegas, El Paso, ect..forget it...I had two Zirgos pulling almost 5000 cfms and they couldn't do the job especialy with the AC on, that is when the temp outsied was over a hundred, on the otherhand, I could run all day with no problem when the temp outside was 85, and thats with the AC...As to the difference, I could definetly feel the horsepower gain with the electrics, so you know it took a lot to go back to OEM...Also, if you do go electric, make sure you use 25/30 amp circuit breakers and NOT fuses, if theres a problem the breakers will come back on after turning off, the fuses die, thus leading to a dead fan which leads to a BHG...Good luck...
I live by the beach but I figure on making a shroud for it. Also what harness did you use with your and did it just constantly run or did you use the stock thermostat.
Ferdie
 

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gt3000fa said:
Im bolting up the pwr radiator and im thinking about changing out the fan too at the same time. I know some power will be gained from doing this mod but is it safe. I havent found any really good info on the mod itself OTHER than
http://www.supras.com/06/techcenter/display.php?QID=27

Ferdie

No power is gained from going to electric fans. The power the engine gains from not spinning the stock fan is lost from the added load on the alternator. At best the engine will rev a bit quicker.
 

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SuperWhiteNinetyTwoMeat
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Discussion Starter #15
You will gain efficiency, because you dont need the fan running all the time.
 
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