Hi everyone, this thread was started on clublexus in the sc300/400 section but it also applies to n/a supras so I copied it here.
This thread might be updated less frequently than the other one, so if something isn't working or missing also check the original thread.
This guide is for use of factory 2JZGTE ecu's on NA-T with coil on plug conversion.
I made some diagrams to help people understand whats needed for the TT ecu mod.
This thread shows wiring for vvti coilpacks, which are newer generation coils found on the 1jzgte vvti, 2jzge vvti and 2jzgte vvti.
The bonus is that these coils will fit under the stock 2jzge intake manifold without modification and they are excellent coils.
*Edit* Just recently figured out how to do this mod without the coilpacks and keeping the stock distributor and coil.
This cuts down on quite a bit of wiring and you can still upgrade to coilpacks whenever you want.
See post 4 for that, I am going to leave post 1 with the coilpack version of the mod since its the complete mod.
This thread has grown rather large with a lot of info spread out on different pages, so try using a google search + tt ecu mod to try and find what you are looking for. If you cannot find it or have a old/new question, just post it at the end of the thread as its just an ongoing discussion and tech help at this point, its alright even if its been asked before it can be a little challenging the first time you do the mod.
So, Onto the good stuff. From here you must make a choice that will affect the parts you need to perform the mod.
There are 2 choices.. Choose your destiny... USDM 2JZGTE ECU or JDM 2JZGTE ECU
simple right..? not really but majority should just go ahead and use the JDM ecu which is the proven setup and works with most common na-t setups.
all 2jzge and 2jzgte non-vvti have the same ecu connector so that is the starting point for this mod, we can plug in several different ecu's.
For 2JZ-GE's that are 92-95, I recommend using a JDM ecu 100%. its map sensor based and takes the least amount of messing with to get it to run well.
For 2JZ-GE's that are 96+ non vvti, I still recommend using the JDM ecu as its map sesnor based and runs the best out of the box. The wiring is a little different you must take power and ground from the tps as the 96+ maf (12v) is different than the 92-95 maf (5v).
- IF you want to try and have an obd2 compliant ecu then there is sort of an advantage to using the USDM ecu as you can keep odb2 working. The wiring is a little different we don't reuse the maf wires for the map so see post 4 for that. *DISCLAIMER* setting up the US GTE ecu's with a maf can be quite a pain to get them to run without misfire codes. only do this if you must have emissions, and consider getting a VPC or map ecu to delete the maf. Even a vpc seems to set off misfire codes otherwise the cars seem to run ok. not sure anyones tried the map ecu yet.
If you are 98+ vvti, then you have to use a JDM VVTI 2jzgte ecu but odb2 port will not work. The VVTI 2jzgte was never offered in US.
The 2jzgte vvti and 2jzge vvti have the same ecu connector (I think), but its not the same as non vvti connector, so you are stuck with this ecu but the good news is you already have the right coilpacks ignitor and most of the wiring, and once done it will control vvti like a gte would, will probably need a gte maf to be swapped in place of stock maf and a map sensor added (2jz) to keep ecu happy. Don't think anyone has done this so let us know if you have more info on it.
Now that we touched on the year ranges and an idea of what ecu you should look to use, I want to mention about transmissions.
The tt ecu mod does not control the torque converter lockup on the GE transmissions. this function does not work.
The GE trans will shift through all the gears, it just won't lock/unlock the torque converter.
If this is important to you for long drives, cruising on the highway etc.. then you need to look into swapping in a TT auto and wiring it up, or swapping to a manual transmission, or possibly investing in a beefy trans cooler but I dont know if that will be enough (probably a good idea either way though).
So, this write up is focused on 92-95 using the JDM ecu and VVTI coils, that is what most will end up using as it is just map sensor based.
Skip to post 4 for info on using a USDM ecu 96-97 (you will need a TT maf and TT map, and get 550cc injectors instead of the 440cc)
See post 4 for wiring up the stock coil/distributor instead of a vvti coils (still need a ds62 ignitor though)
See post 4 for wiring up TT ignitor/coils instead of a vvti ignitor/coils (must have a Font Facing Intake Manifold)
See post 4 for wiring up 1ZZ/2ZZ coils instead of a vvti ignitor/coils (must have a Font Facing Intake Manifold)
See post 4 for wiring up GM LQ9 coils and for using the stock ignitor/coil (both currently require an IGF simulator/faker).
Parts for JDM ECU:
TT ecu: Jdm Aristo or Supra ecu (aristo is more common and always auto; supra has auto and manual ecu's)
injectors: 440cc (stock size and plug and play), or you can run up to 550cc reliably with a fuel controller
airflow: TT Map sensor(2.3 bar) + Intake temp sensor IAT (universal is fine)
coil on plugs: For vvti coils you need a ds62 ignitor (toyota version) (or dh61 lexus version).
Heated o2 sensor works best but even the stock non-heated one works but a little longer to warm up when cold.
You will also need 5 spare ecu pins to do the mod with vvti coils (recommended), 8 for doing mod with gte coils.
you can get these off a spare harness or from another member or online as well as at Toyota.
STEP 1: Install Map and IAT
Install Stock TT MAP sensor and IAT as per diagram below, if your wire colors are different go by pin location.
Map sensor can be 1jz or 2jz, thats about it. IAT can be from the 1jz, 2jz, GM, or a universal unit (im using an aem one).
this is the wiring for the jdm ecu, which reuses all your old maf wires to connect your new map and IAT to.
note you move the old maf signal wire pin (B66) to the map signal wire spot (B62) at the ecu plug
do not forget or you will have no map signal
Just a heads up, when installing the map, get all your wires right and ready in the connector before plugging the map sensor in, if it isn't right unplug the map and do the wiring till you get it right. Don't make connections while the map is connected or you can hurt the map or worse the ecu 5V driver and then you could need a new ecu.
Step 2: Install injectors
stock size is 440cc, I suggest most people start here and it will support 400hp. good for at least a bar of boost on most medium size turbos.
550's will start and drive around but will run very rich. Most wash out the spark in boost when running 550's and no piggyback.
So a safc is recommended if you go 550cc, but if you go larger like 660cc safc is definitely needed as it won't run right.
You are looking for top feed injectors (unlike gte side feed injectors), and you are looking for high impedance.
also they are specifically import size ("Denso") or 11mm, if you see domestic or 14mm injectors those will not fit the stock fuel rail.
7mgte injectors drop in but are low impedance and require a 7m or JZ resistor pack, and usually an injector cleaning.
Many aftermarket 440cc's are high impedance and do not need a resistor pack (Like some RC's, Delphi) which are the best/easiest route.
Also there are alot of options online for remanufactured injectors that seem to be a good route to try. search for "2jzge injectors".
*I am going to try and update this with known injectors that work as people report them back to me.
I have heard these are the proper RC 440cc: RC SL4-440 but it is not confirmed which part number has the right type for the lower runner, will update when it is.
Alot of injectors like these will have EV1 connectors and you need to change your injector clips to EV1 style (or use plug and play adapters):
There are some injectors that have the round denso clips (like stock) like remanufactured but are easier cause they are drop in with not adapters needed.
consider though that with a ffim, the adapter gives you extra length to tuck your harness under the manifold without having to break out the soldering iron.
If you do break out the soldering iron to change clips, make your wires longer than stock it will help alot when you put on a FFIM you wont need to rewire at all
If you are 96+ or using a 96+ lower runner, note that the odb2 lower runner uses a different style of injectors that look similar to the IS300 injectors which have 2 orings, a small one on the bottom and a large one right above it. ODB1 injectors are the common ones that just have the 1 oring at the bottom. please note they are not the same generally speaking. If you have an odb2 runner you can get away with using obd1 injectors, as the main larger oring will seal the top part even though its not the perfect size. the air assist hose stuff won't work but no one cares about that usually.
other options are to try IS300 injectors which are becoming available now in larger sizes (I am not 100% sure they will fit they just look the same notice I wrote try), or you can change your lower runner to a odb1 lower runner and use the odb1 injectors, and yes the odb2 upper will bolt to the odb1 lower runner just fine. you can also use a obd1 throttle body and that will get rid of the other size of the air assist hose. again you can just use the obd1 injectors it turns out on your obd2 runner and block the air hoses from the throttle body, at least on normal boost applications.
This thread might be updated less frequently than the other one, so if something isn't working or missing also check the original thread.
This guide is for use of factory 2JZGTE ecu's on NA-T with coil on plug conversion.
I made some diagrams to help people understand whats needed for the TT ecu mod.
This thread shows wiring for vvti coilpacks, which are newer generation coils found on the 1jzgte vvti, 2jzge vvti and 2jzgte vvti.
The bonus is that these coils will fit under the stock 2jzge intake manifold without modification and they are excellent coils.
*Edit* Just recently figured out how to do this mod without the coilpacks and keeping the stock distributor and coil.
This cuts down on quite a bit of wiring and you can still upgrade to coilpacks whenever you want.
See post 4 for that, I am going to leave post 1 with the coilpack version of the mod since its the complete mod.
This thread has grown rather large with a lot of info spread out on different pages, so try using a google search + tt ecu mod to try and find what you are looking for. If you cannot find it or have a old/new question, just post it at the end of the thread as its just an ongoing discussion and tech help at this point, its alright even if its been asked before it can be a little challenging the first time you do the mod.
So, Onto the good stuff. From here you must make a choice that will affect the parts you need to perform the mod.
There are 2 choices.. Choose your destiny... USDM 2JZGTE ECU or JDM 2JZGTE ECU
simple right..? not really but majority should just go ahead and use the JDM ecu which is the proven setup and works with most common na-t setups.
all 2jzge and 2jzgte non-vvti have the same ecu connector so that is the starting point for this mod, we can plug in several different ecu's.
For 2JZ-GE's that are 92-95, I recommend using a JDM ecu 100%. its map sensor based and takes the least amount of messing with to get it to run well.
For 2JZ-GE's that are 96+ non vvti, I still recommend using the JDM ecu as its map sesnor based and runs the best out of the box. The wiring is a little different you must take power and ground from the tps as the 96+ maf (12v) is different than the 92-95 maf (5v).
- IF you want to try and have an obd2 compliant ecu then there is sort of an advantage to using the USDM ecu as you can keep odb2 working. The wiring is a little different we don't reuse the maf wires for the map so see post 4 for that. *DISCLAIMER* setting up the US GTE ecu's with a maf can be quite a pain to get them to run without misfire codes. only do this if you must have emissions, and consider getting a VPC or map ecu to delete the maf. Even a vpc seems to set off misfire codes otherwise the cars seem to run ok. not sure anyones tried the map ecu yet.
If you are 98+ vvti, then you have to use a JDM VVTI 2jzgte ecu but odb2 port will not work. The VVTI 2jzgte was never offered in US.
The 2jzgte vvti and 2jzge vvti have the same ecu connector (I think), but its not the same as non vvti connector, so you are stuck with this ecu but the good news is you already have the right coilpacks ignitor and most of the wiring, and once done it will control vvti like a gte would, will probably need a gte maf to be swapped in place of stock maf and a map sensor added (2jz) to keep ecu happy. Don't think anyone has done this so let us know if you have more info on it.
Now that we touched on the year ranges and an idea of what ecu you should look to use, I want to mention about transmissions.
The tt ecu mod does not control the torque converter lockup on the GE transmissions. this function does not work.
The GE trans will shift through all the gears, it just won't lock/unlock the torque converter.
If this is important to you for long drives, cruising on the highway etc.. then you need to look into swapping in a TT auto and wiring it up, or swapping to a manual transmission, or possibly investing in a beefy trans cooler but I dont know if that will be enough (probably a good idea either way though).
So, this write up is focused on 92-95 using the JDM ecu and VVTI coils, that is what most will end up using as it is just map sensor based.
Skip to post 4 for info on using a USDM ecu 96-97 (you will need a TT maf and TT map, and get 550cc injectors instead of the 440cc)
See post 4 for wiring up the stock coil/distributor instead of a vvti coils (still need a ds62 ignitor though)
See post 4 for wiring up TT ignitor/coils instead of a vvti ignitor/coils (must have a Font Facing Intake Manifold)
See post 4 for wiring up 1ZZ/2ZZ coils instead of a vvti ignitor/coils (must have a Font Facing Intake Manifold)
See post 4 for wiring up GM LQ9 coils and for using the stock ignitor/coil (both currently require an IGF simulator/faker).
Parts for JDM ECU:
TT ecu: Jdm Aristo or Supra ecu (aristo is more common and always auto; supra has auto and manual ecu's)
injectors: 440cc (stock size and plug and play), or you can run up to 550cc reliably with a fuel controller
airflow: TT Map sensor(2.3 bar) + Intake temp sensor IAT (universal is fine)
coil on plugs: For vvti coils you need a ds62 ignitor (toyota version) (or dh61 lexus version).
Heated o2 sensor works best but even the stock non-heated one works but a little longer to warm up when cold.
You will also need 5 spare ecu pins to do the mod with vvti coils (recommended), 8 for doing mod with gte coils.
you can get these off a spare harness or from another member or online as well as at Toyota.
STEP 1: Install Map and IAT
Install Stock TT MAP sensor and IAT as per diagram below, if your wire colors are different go by pin location.
Map sensor can be 1jz or 2jz, thats about it. IAT can be from the 1jz, 2jz, GM, or a universal unit (im using an aem one).
this is the wiring for the jdm ecu, which reuses all your old maf wires to connect your new map and IAT to.
note you move the old maf signal wire pin (B66) to the map signal wire spot (B62) at the ecu plug
do not forget or you will have no map signal
Just a heads up, when installing the map, get all your wires right and ready in the connector before plugging the map sensor in, if it isn't right unplug the map and do the wiring till you get it right. Don't make connections while the map is connected or you can hurt the map or worse the ecu 5V driver and then you could need a new ecu.
Step 2: Install injectors
stock size is 440cc, I suggest most people start here and it will support 400hp. good for at least a bar of boost on most medium size turbos.
550's will start and drive around but will run very rich. Most wash out the spark in boost when running 550's and no piggyback.
So a safc is recommended if you go 550cc, but if you go larger like 660cc safc is definitely needed as it won't run right.
You are looking for top feed injectors (unlike gte side feed injectors), and you are looking for high impedance.
also they are specifically import size ("Denso") or 11mm, if you see domestic or 14mm injectors those will not fit the stock fuel rail.
7mgte injectors drop in but are low impedance and require a 7m or JZ resistor pack, and usually an injector cleaning.
Many aftermarket 440cc's are high impedance and do not need a resistor pack (Like some RC's, Delphi) which are the best/easiest route.
Also there are alot of options online for remanufactured injectors that seem to be a good route to try. search for "2jzge injectors".
*I am going to try and update this with known injectors that work as people report them back to me.
I have heard these are the proper RC 440cc: RC SL4-440 but it is not confirmed which part number has the right type for the lower runner, will update when it is.
Alot of injectors like these will have EV1 connectors and you need to change your injector clips to EV1 style (or use plug and play adapters):
There are some injectors that have the round denso clips (like stock) like remanufactured but are easier cause they are drop in with not adapters needed.
consider though that with a ffim, the adapter gives you extra length to tuck your harness under the manifold without having to break out the soldering iron.
If you do break out the soldering iron to change clips, make your wires longer than stock it will help alot when you put on a FFIM you wont need to rewire at all
If you are 96+ or using a 96+ lower runner, note that the odb2 lower runner uses a different style of injectors that look similar to the IS300 injectors which have 2 orings, a small one on the bottom and a large one right above it. ODB1 injectors are the common ones that just have the 1 oring at the bottom. please note they are not the same generally speaking. If you have an odb2 runner you can get away with using obd1 injectors, as the main larger oring will seal the top part even though its not the perfect size. the air assist hose stuff won't work but no one cares about that usually.
other options are to try IS300 injectors which are becoming available now in larger sizes (I am not 100% sure they will fit they just look the same notice I wrote try), or you can change your lower runner to a odb1 lower runner and use the odb1 injectors, and yes the odb2 upper will bolt to the odb1 lower runner just fine. you can also use a obd1 throttle body and that will get rid of the other size of the air assist hose. again you can just use the obd1 injectors it turns out on your obd2 runner and block the air hoses from the throttle body, at least on normal boost applications.