Hi everyone, this thread was started on clublexus in the sc300/400 section but it also applies to n/a supras so I copied it here.
This thread might be updated less frequently than the other one, so if something isn't working or missing also check the original thread.
This guide is for use of factory 2JZGTE ecu's on NA-T with coil on plug conversion.
I made some diagrams to help people understand whats needed for the TT ecu mod.
This thread shows wiring for vvti coilpacks, which are newer generation coils found on the 1jzgte vvti, 2jzge vvti and 2jzgte vvti.
The bonus is that these coils will fit under the stock 2jzge intake manifold without modification and they are excellent coils.
There is also a way to do this mod without the coilpacks and keeping the stock distributor and coil.
This cuts down on quite a bit of wiring and you can still upgrade to coilpacks whenever you want.
See post 4 for that, I am going to leave post 1 with the coilpack version of the mod since its the complete mod.
This thread has grown rather large with a lot of info spread out on different pages, so try using a google search + tt ecu mod to try and find what you are looking for. If you cannot find it or have a old/new question, just post it at the end of the thread as its just an ongoing discussion and tech help at this point, its alright even if its been asked before it can be a little challenging the first time you do the mod.
So, Onto the good stuff. From here you must make a choice that will affect the parts you need to perform the mod.
There are 2 choices.. Choose your destiny... USDM 2JZGTE ECU or JDM 2JZGTE ECU
simple right..? not really but majority should just go ahead and use the JDM 2JZGTE ECU which is the proven setup and works with most common na-t setups.
all 2jzge and 2jzgte non-vvti have the same ecu connector so that is the starting point for this mod, we can plug in several different ecu's.
For 2JZ-GE's that are 92-95, I recommend using a JDM ecu 100%. its map sensor based and is proven to run na-t very well.
For 2JZ-GE's that are 96+ non vvti, I still recommend using the JDM ecu as its map sesnor based and works with na-t the best.
The wiring is a little different, but basically you tap the tps for map sensor power and ground instead of the old maf plug as the newer mafs are 12v vs older ones are 5v and tps is 5v also.
IF you want to try and have an obd2 compliant ecu then there is sort of an advantage to using the USDM ecu as you can keep odb2 working. The wiring is a little different we don't reuse the maf wires for the map so see post 4 for that. DISCLAIMER setting up the US GTE ecu's with a maf can be quite a pain to get them to run without misfire codes. members have tried piggybacks etc.. they don't seem to work too great. I would recommend avoiding this combination.
If you are 98+ vvti, then you have to use a JDM VVTI 2jzgte ecu but odb2 port will not work. The VVTI 2jzgte was never offered in US.
The 2jzgte vvti and 2jzge vvti have the same ecu connector, but its not the same as non vvti connector, so you are stuck with this ecu but the good news is you already have the right coilpacks, ignitor and most of the wiring, and once done it will control vvti like a gte would.
You need the gte maf it will plug in, and a map sensor added to keep the ecu happy. This has been tested now and works well for vvti setups.
Now that we touched on the year ranges and an idea of what ecu you should look to use, I want to mention about transmissions.
The tt ecu mod does not control the torque converter lockup on the GE transmissions. this function does not work.
The GE trans will shift through all the gears, it just won't lock/unlock the torque converter.
If you have to stay auto I would recommend swapping to a GTE Auto transmission but it will take extra wiring not covered here.
What I really recommend is swapping to a manual transmission that will hold the power, like an R series trans with a nice clutch (consider twin options for better street-ability) or nowadays the T56 is a great option for big power but it is pricier overall.
So, this write up is focused on 92-95 using the JDM ecu and VVTI coils, that is what most will end up using as it is just map sensor based.
Skip to post 4 for info on using a USDM ecu 96-97 (you will need a TT maf and TT map, and get 550cc injectors instead of the 440cc)
See post 4 for wiring up the stock coil/distributor instead of a vvti coils (still need a ds62 ignitor though)
See post 4 for wiring up TT ignitor/coils instead of a vvti ignitor/coils (must have a Font Facing Intake Manifold)
See post 4 for wiring up 1ZZ/2ZZ coils instead of a vvti ignitor/coils (must have a Font Facing Intake Manifold)
See post 4 for wiring up GM LQ9 coils and for using the stock ignitor/coil (both currently require an IGF simulator/faker).
Parts for JDM ECU:
TT ecu: Jdm Aristo or Supra ecu (aristo is more common and always auto; supra has auto and manual ecu's)
injectors: 440cc (stock size and plug and play), or you can run up to 550cc reliably with a fuel controller
airflow: TT Map sensor(2.3 bar OEM only) + Intake temp sensor IAT (universal is fine)
coil on plugs: For vvti coils you need a ds62 ignitor (toyota version) (or dh61 lexus version).
Heated o2 sensor works best if you don't already have one stock (heated will be 3-4 wire, non heated will have a single "shielded" wire).
You will also need 5 spare ecu pins to do the mod with vvti coils (recommended), 8 for doing mod with gte coils.
You can get these off a spare harness / from another member / online stores sell repair pins now / Toyota sells them also.
STEP 1: Install Map and IAT
Install Stock TT MAP sensor and IAT as per diagram below, if your wire colors are different go by pin location.
Map sensor can be 1jz or 2jz, thats about it. IAT can be from the 1jz, 2jz, GM, or a universal unit (im using an aem one).
this is the wiring for the jdm ecu, which reuses all your old maf wires to connect your new map and IAT to.
note you move the old maf signal wire pin (B66) to the map signal wire spot (B62) at the ecu plug
do not forget or you will have no map signal
Just a heads up, when installing the map, get all your wires right and ready in the connector before plugging the map sensor in, if it isn't right unplug the map and do the wiring till you get it right. Don't make connections while the map is connected or you can hurt the map or worse the ecu 5V driver and then you could need a new ecu.
Step 2: Install injectors
stock TT size is 440cc, I suggest most people start here and it will support 400hp. good for at least a bar of boost on most medium size turbos. One member hit quite a bit over that on the dyno but not a bad idea to have a wideband and monitor your AFR's!!
Without a piggyback 550's will start and drive around but will run very rich and foul plugs eventually, 660cc won't run very well at all.
Most wash out the spark in boost when running 550's and no piggyback, so a piggyback is needed for 550cc+.
You are looking for top feed injectors (unlike gte side feed injectors), and you are looking for high impedance.
also they are specifically import size ("Denso") or 11mm, if you see domestic or 14mm injectors those will not fit the stock fuel rail.
7mgte injectors drop in but are low impedance and require a 7m or JZ resistor pack, and usually an injector cleaning.
Most aftermarket Denso 440cc's options are now high impedance and do not need a resistor pack, look for these.
Also there are alot of options online for re-manufactured injectors that seem to be a good route to try.
search for "2jzge injectors", I have used Oside tiger injectors and they seem to work really well as they rebuild oem injectors here in the US and quite a few members are running those now, watch out for other companies that do not rebuild oem ones and use knock off injectors, they generally do not idle or run properly and not actually flow matched (members here have actually tried them and not one has been successful so avoid these). Check the description before ordering, make sure they are actually Denso or Bosch units rebuild or re-manufactured.
Some injectors might have EV1 or EV14 connectors instead of the stock Denso clips, if that is the case you need to change your injector clips to that style (or use plug and play adapters). The adapters will make it longer for a FFIM which is good but connection now has an extra connector to worry about, other option is hardwiring which is more solid but takes more work, if rewiring make them longer so you can run a FFIM later without rewiring.
If you are 96+ or using a 96+ lower runner, note that the odb2 lower runner uses a different style of injectors. I don't recommend running this runner and you should swap to an obd1 lower runner and use obd1 injectors, you can also use a obd1 throttle body and that will get rid of the other size of the air assist hose.
Other good option would be to grab one of the newer FFIM's which has aftermarket runners and go FFIM if you have the engine bay space.
This thread might be updated less frequently than the other one, so if something isn't working or missing also check the original thread.
This guide is for use of factory 2JZGTE ecu's on NA-T with coil on plug conversion.
I made some diagrams to help people understand whats needed for the TT ecu mod.
This thread shows wiring for vvti coilpacks, which are newer generation coils found on the 1jzgte vvti, 2jzge vvti and 2jzgte vvti.
The bonus is that these coils will fit under the stock 2jzge intake manifold without modification and they are excellent coils.
There is also a way to do this mod without the coilpacks and keeping the stock distributor and coil.
This cuts down on quite a bit of wiring and you can still upgrade to coilpacks whenever you want.
See post 4 for that, I am going to leave post 1 with the coilpack version of the mod since its the complete mod.
This thread has grown rather large with a lot of info spread out on different pages, so try using a google search + tt ecu mod to try and find what you are looking for. If you cannot find it or have a old/new question, just post it at the end of the thread as its just an ongoing discussion and tech help at this point, its alright even if its been asked before it can be a little challenging the first time you do the mod.
So, Onto the good stuff. From here you must make a choice that will affect the parts you need to perform the mod.
There are 2 choices.. Choose your destiny... USDM 2JZGTE ECU or JDM 2JZGTE ECU
simple right..? not really but majority should just go ahead and use the JDM 2JZGTE ECU which is the proven setup and works with most common na-t setups.
all 2jzge and 2jzgte non-vvti have the same ecu connector so that is the starting point for this mod, we can plug in several different ecu's.
For 2JZ-GE's that are 92-95, I recommend using a JDM ecu 100%. its map sensor based and is proven to run na-t very well.
For 2JZ-GE's that are 96+ non vvti, I still recommend using the JDM ecu as its map sesnor based and works with na-t the best.
The wiring is a little different, but basically you tap the tps for map sensor power and ground instead of the old maf plug as the newer mafs are 12v vs older ones are 5v and tps is 5v also.
IF you want to try and have an obd2 compliant ecu then there is sort of an advantage to using the USDM ecu as you can keep odb2 working. The wiring is a little different we don't reuse the maf wires for the map so see post 4 for that. DISCLAIMER setting up the US GTE ecu's with a maf can be quite a pain to get them to run without misfire codes. members have tried piggybacks etc.. they don't seem to work too great. I would recommend avoiding this combination.
If you are 98+ vvti, then you have to use a JDM VVTI 2jzgte ecu but odb2 port will not work. The VVTI 2jzgte was never offered in US.
The 2jzgte vvti and 2jzge vvti have the same ecu connector, but its not the same as non vvti connector, so you are stuck with this ecu but the good news is you already have the right coilpacks, ignitor and most of the wiring, and once done it will control vvti like a gte would.
You need the gte maf it will plug in, and a map sensor added to keep the ecu happy. This has been tested now and works well for vvti setups.
Now that we touched on the year ranges and an idea of what ecu you should look to use, I want to mention about transmissions.
The tt ecu mod does not control the torque converter lockup on the GE transmissions. this function does not work.
The GE trans will shift through all the gears, it just won't lock/unlock the torque converter.
If you have to stay auto I would recommend swapping to a GTE Auto transmission but it will take extra wiring not covered here.
What I really recommend is swapping to a manual transmission that will hold the power, like an R series trans with a nice clutch (consider twin options for better street-ability) or nowadays the T56 is a great option for big power but it is pricier overall.
So, this write up is focused on 92-95 using the JDM ecu and VVTI coils, that is what most will end up using as it is just map sensor based.
Skip to post 4 for info on using a USDM ecu 96-97 (you will need a TT maf and TT map, and get 550cc injectors instead of the 440cc)
See post 4 for wiring up the stock coil/distributor instead of a vvti coils (still need a ds62 ignitor though)
See post 4 for wiring up TT ignitor/coils instead of a vvti ignitor/coils (must have a Font Facing Intake Manifold)
See post 4 for wiring up 1ZZ/2ZZ coils instead of a vvti ignitor/coils (must have a Font Facing Intake Manifold)
See post 4 for wiring up GM LQ9 coils and for using the stock ignitor/coil (both currently require an IGF simulator/faker).
Parts for JDM ECU:
TT ecu: Jdm Aristo or Supra ecu (aristo is more common and always auto; supra has auto and manual ecu's)
injectors: 440cc (stock size and plug and play), or you can run up to 550cc reliably with a fuel controller
airflow: TT Map sensor(2.3 bar OEM only) + Intake temp sensor IAT (universal is fine)
coil on plugs: For vvti coils you need a ds62 ignitor (toyota version) (or dh61 lexus version).
Heated o2 sensor works best if you don't already have one stock (heated will be 3-4 wire, non heated will have a single "shielded" wire).
You will also need 5 spare ecu pins to do the mod with vvti coils (recommended), 8 for doing mod with gte coils.
You can get these off a spare harness / from another member / online stores sell repair pins now / Toyota sells them also.
STEP 1: Install Map and IAT
Install Stock TT MAP sensor and IAT as per diagram below, if your wire colors are different go by pin location.
Map sensor can be 1jz or 2jz, thats about it. IAT can be from the 1jz, 2jz, GM, or a universal unit (im using an aem one).
this is the wiring for the jdm ecu, which reuses all your old maf wires to connect your new map and IAT to.
note you move the old maf signal wire pin (B66) to the map signal wire spot (B62) at the ecu plug
do not forget or you will have no map signal
Just a heads up, when installing the map, get all your wires right and ready in the connector before plugging the map sensor in, if it isn't right unplug the map and do the wiring till you get it right. Don't make connections while the map is connected or you can hurt the map or worse the ecu 5V driver and then you could need a new ecu.
Step 2: Install injectors
stock TT size is 440cc, I suggest most people start here and it will support 400hp. good for at least a bar of boost on most medium size turbos. One member hit quite a bit over that on the dyno but not a bad idea to have a wideband and monitor your AFR's!!
Without a piggyback 550's will start and drive around but will run very rich and foul plugs eventually, 660cc won't run very well at all.
Most wash out the spark in boost when running 550's and no piggyback, so a piggyback is needed for 550cc+.
You are looking for top feed injectors (unlike gte side feed injectors), and you are looking for high impedance.
also they are specifically import size ("Denso") or 11mm, if you see domestic or 14mm injectors those will not fit the stock fuel rail.
7mgte injectors drop in but are low impedance and require a 7m or JZ resistor pack, and usually an injector cleaning.
Most aftermarket Denso 440cc's options are now high impedance and do not need a resistor pack, look for these.
Also there are alot of options online for re-manufactured injectors that seem to be a good route to try.
search for "2jzge injectors", I have used Oside tiger injectors and they seem to work really well as they rebuild oem injectors here in the US and quite a few members are running those now, watch out for other companies that do not rebuild oem ones and use knock off injectors, they generally do not idle or run properly and not actually flow matched (members here have actually tried them and not one has been successful so avoid these). Check the description before ordering, make sure they are actually Denso or Bosch units rebuild or re-manufactured.
Some injectors might have EV1 or EV14 connectors instead of the stock Denso clips, if that is the case you need to change your injector clips to that style (or use plug and play adapters). The adapters will make it longer for a FFIM which is good but connection now has an extra connector to worry about, other option is hardwiring which is more solid but takes more work, if rewiring make them longer so you can run a FFIM later without rewiring.
If you are 96+ or using a 96+ lower runner, note that the odb2 lower runner uses a different style of injectors. I don't recommend running this runner and you should swap to an obd1 lower runner and use obd1 injectors, you can also use a obd1 throttle body and that will get rid of the other size of the air assist hose.
Other good option would be to grab one of the newer FFIM's which has aftermarket runners and go FFIM if you have the engine bay space.