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Discussion Starter #81
just use the hyundai ones then if they have the same connector and known to work. I can't say for sure which ones work and wont work, but probably a lot of different ones can be made to work.
As for fitting them, not a whole lot of coils will fit under the stock intake manifold for those middle cylinders, but if you do find some post them up.

the vvti coils are the easiest and spark well, literally designed for that intake. if you are pushing enough power to need more spark then you may want to go front facing intake manifold and then you can run whatever everyones running these days.
it used to be the GM coils, then it was aem coils, not really sure what the current coil of choice is haven't been paying attention.
 

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Looks like I'm gonna try and find out if the Audi coils will fit under the stock manifold. Ray Hall has been using them quite effectively and spotted some pro drift guys making 1000hp on them. http://www.turbofast.com.au/lexusignition.html <--- shows dwell times and pin-out so that's helpful too. That and I wont have to get an igniter since its built in. Just not sure if they return an IGF signal. Got an early model 2jzgte Aristo ecu for cheap and figured I would use it rather than wire my swap for the 2jzge ecu and distributor only to cut the harness back open again. I might as well wire it up for the GTE ecu and use it. Also for preparation of maybe a Link G4+ PnP "supralink" ecu down the road.

Question: can I run the stock 2jzge injectors while I run the GTE ecu without boost or will the ecu only work with 440cc's?
 

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Discussion Starter #83
They really don't look much shorter than gte coils, hard to tell from the pictures but not sure if they will even clear the n/a intake.
you will need an IGF simulator with the ge or gte ecu also, so really I don't see how this is even remotely worth it.
those IGF simulator circuits are tricky and I would generally not want one in my setup.
I would try one if I was running a standalone though as it looks like a decent option.
With the TT ecu just use the vvti coils and ignitor with the stock intake manifold or find a short coil that you can use along with a toyota ignitor.

You need 440cc injectors. the car may start in warm weather and sort of idle on 330s but it will be lean and will not run correctly.
If you are judging success by whether you can get it to start and idle, then I will say *maybe* but...
you might as well stick with the n/a ecu at that point.

Also, when you are taking off the intake to do the coils, you are over half way of removing stuff to get to the removal of the fuel rail.
I would do both jobs at the same time, cause it is a pain to remove that intake even when you bypass the coolant hoses, and install at least 440cc.

It's really a simple mod with the toyota stuff, and from what it sounds like to me you like to tinker with stuff so my suggestion would be if you want to experiment with all those other setups just go straight to a standalone, you will be happier with the flexibility, you can run whatever coils you want and also injector size but no one ever runs 330cc for more than just a test start, and even that is a waste of time cause if you are going turbo and don't have injectors and a fuel pump then you should hold off on going turbo and do it all at once.
 

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How is this not a "Sticky"?
Good point.

Ali, this is a hell of a useful resource and thank you for taking the time to post it and continue to answer questions!
 

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Discussion Starter #85
Thanks guys, just wanted to mention I've added in some details and removed some other stuff over time to make things more clear and the version at club lexus SC section is the most updated, so if you are wondering about a specific detail be sure to check the other thread also also as I haven't had the time to update this one fully... but all the stuff you need is in the post. It seems some people just need more details than others :bigok:

I am actually about to do the vvti version of the tt ecu mod when I drop my 2jzge vvti na-t into my 2001 tacoma.
95 supra n/a block, is300 head, and a bunch of na-t goodies.. going to see how it runs on the stock vvti ecu :beer:
 

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Looking forward to your vvti tt ecu mod! Im looking to eventually get an NA vvti head for my non vvti block or a whole na vvti longblock and swap in the non vvti pistons and rods.
Looks like the R35 coils are all the rage rumor has it 370z coils are the same just have a different part number cause the stems are different lengths but those are removable anyhow.
Not sure if they'll fit under the NA crossover intake manifold but the head looks smaller than the tt coils and maybe they can me mounted deeper in the valley between the valve covers.

403-044-H.jpg r35 coils TT.jpg
 

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So I'm about to dive into this. I got the coils, igniter from an IS300, got a 2JZ MAF and an IAT in the mail. I had one question though. I want to wire it all up and get it running on the ECU before I add all the turbo components to make sure that electrically everything works. Can I do this on the stock injectors and pump and have it run and drive so that I can test it all out without hurting anything?
 

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Discussion Starter #88
^^ you mean Map sensor right? JDM ecu doesn't use the maf.

the ecu needs the right size injectors, have gotten this question lots of times and there is no good way to run it with the stock injectors. people have tried trust me, it has trouble starting and if you can get it started it will constantly run lean and stumble. a safc won't help you either cause you are correcting the wrong way and it will cause it to run badly also.

You need the 440cc injectors (or 550 with a piggyback but I would start with 440 on a street setup just to get it all worked out, some piggybacks can cause large headaches).
You can use the stock fuel pump for now though, but when you start to hit real boost like over 7 psi, you should go to a denso or walboro etc..

look up osidetiger on ebay stores, they rebuild and sell actual denso injectors that work well for na-t and are reasonable in price.
search 2jzge na-t injectors on there and look for oside tiger. they usually have 440cc injectors if not send them a message or some should pop up when they have them.

Also took me a few minutes to find this thread, I guess it got stickied in the n/a section, pretty neat :cool:
 
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Aaaaand it's running (still NA though). I'm quite impressed with how this all works so nicely. At first it stumbled a bit when I tapped the throttle but I let it warm up and set the timing and now its running smooth and pulls harder than before with the distributor. I'm going to cold soak it a couple more times and run it again to make sure its running good consistently and then it's time to start boosting her.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
:cool:(y)
 
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Ali, do you happen to have the settings to change on an AEM V2 (6101 GE specific) + wiring diagram ? for is300 coils

will I have to worry about “timing drift” keeping the base of the distributor for the cam position sensor ?
 

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Discussion Starter #92 (Edited)
You don't have to worry so much about the timing drift especially if you are getting the car tuned and not using someone elses tune.
There is usually a slight drift, but as it is being tuned the timing that gets dialed in will naturally account for the drift (drift is vs rpm, and timing is also tuned vs rpm).
Now if you used someones tune that was tuned on fixed sensors like the GTE, a little tweaking might be necessary but generally its pretty close.. you could just pull like 5 degrees across the map and do the fine tuning again if you are picking up knock.

Copied this from this thread on CL

I seem to get asked this alot and it is a little different than the V1 so here is the way to do it.

I am going to use my the numbering system for the coils here that makes the most sense, if you use a different one, you will need to adjust for that.

Step 1.
Wire coil 1 (cylinders 1 and 6) to pin 57B on ecu connector.
Wire coil 2 (cylinders 2 and 5) to pin 56B on ecu connector
Wire coil 3 (cylinders 3 and 4) to pin 55B on ecu connector.
See Post 2 for a wiring diagram to install vvti coils for the aem v1/v2.

Step 2.
change the coil phasing to match the diagram below.
coils 4-6 will be turned off, and coils 1B, 2B and 3B will be turned on and use the phasing numbers shown.
check all the knock sensor boxes unless you can confidently say which one you should use for each cylinder (I know I cant)


Step 3.
This step matters if you are using the distributor as the cam/crank sensor, GTE pickups, or a 7M CPS.

If you are using the GTE style pickups, make sure advanced pickup options look like this picture below, these are the default settings in the GTE basemap.
If you are using the GE distributor, change spark teeth to 24 and try using (Crank H sens below = 2000) and (Crank L sens Above = 1900) as these are the settings from the aem V1.



If you are using the 7M CPS, use these settings and make sure advanced pickup options look like this.


That should get the cam/crank sensors reading right and your coils firing in the right order. Pass it on
:thumbup:
 

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that helps immensely, thank you. looks like that will be my next upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Yeah, VVTI coils are a no brainer over the stock coil... wiring is easy and can even work with the tt ecu mod and the ignition is so much better you will notice the idle quality improve and with the larger gap you can run pick up a little power also. go with the BKR7EIX or if you are on low boost go with a BKR6EIX and gap them around .028-.032 to start and go from there.
 
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At the moment I’m running E85, AEM V2, 71mm precision, stock distributor with new fresh oem Toyota ignition components, plus HKS twin power. Rev’s to 8200 clean on NGK 4644 at .026 at about 14psi

just thinking ahead before I go big boost
 

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Discussion Starter #96
Yeah you should drop in the vvti coils, you are leaving some power on the table right now with the stock coil even with the HKS twin power.
You shouldn't have to run .026 at 14 psi, that is a pretty low gap. I would also go with the iridium version instead of the 4644, the bkr7eix is harder to foul out and performs just as good if not better than the coppers. Avoid platinum plugs, they are the worst for performance and are only good for lasting a long time on a stock car.

Since you have the aem v2 that can run sequential coil on plug, you may want to think about going with 6 aftermarket coils to pick up the most power.
You would need an FFIM though, if you are on the stock ge intake manifold then just use the vvti as it fits and is better than the stock distributor.
 
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246941


already ffim and such. big stuff is done just eventually getting rid of the bottlenecks such as the ignition and fuel (1000cc at the moment)

in time.
 

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On the topic of an tt-ecu mod I was hoping you ali_sc3 would be able to help, as you have so many times in the past. Long story short we’ve got a wireing specialties harness that’s plug and play into a 1990 300zx for a stock 2jzgte non vvti running the stock computer. However The motor we’ve got is a 2jz Ge non vvti. I originally thoight if we did a GTE oil pump+12tooth timing cog and crank sensor and added a knock sensor, and used the cam signal from the dizzy or a 7m cps + dizzy delete we could basically have fooled everything into thinking it was all GTE hardware therefor would work pretty flawlessly.
But now I know that the gte has 2 cam pos sensors and somthing to do with a return IGF signal at the igniter. But NAT guys have been doing this for some time under your guidance. So fundamentally what is being done with the wiring in a nat tt ecu mod? And how can I apply that to a gte harness in reverse. Basically take away the gte coils and do either a 7m or vvti igniter and coil mod to a gte harness?
 

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Discussion Starter #99
The distributor puts out a 12 tooth crank signal (12 tooth x2 cam revolutions for 1 crank turn = 24 teeth in the distributor), exact same as a gte one so no need for the oil pump (crank signal is labeled "Ne" in the electronic diagrams)
The distributor also has 2 cam signals (G1 and G2 in the diagrams), and these are the same a gte would put out also.

So all you need to do is wire the cam and crank sensors to the distributor plug. Do note that they are shielded wires, so the shielding should not touch the wire inside and is usually grounded.

Do not install the gte oil pump on a ge motor, you will have excessive oil pressure and push out the front main seals, and maybe the cam seals over and over again.
The ge does not have the 6 piston oil squirters, which are basically like 6 oil leaks the gte pump has extra pressure for.

If you want to use an oil pump that you can run the crank sensor from, use the vvti 2jzge oil pump that has a crank sensor spot and the correct oil pressure (or a 96-97 non vvti ge pump also had it).
You can run the crank sensor off the crank then and just use the distributor for the cam signals, whatever is easier to install the oil pump or rewire the crank sensor.
you will be rewiring the cam sensor wires anyways cause they are not long enough on a gte harness, the crank sensor wire you can just peel open the harness and it reaches the distrubutor.

on the ignition side, if you are using a 2jzgte ecu, you need to install the vvti or gte coils and basically do the tt ecu mod like on page 1 of this thread.
you will already have the map sensor and all the wiring installed for the gte ignitor and coils, (assuming a stock like gte harness on the engine side), so you could just drop in the gte coils and ignitor and it should all work. you could also rewire the ignitior for vvti ignitor and coils, which might be a good idea if you are using the stock GE intake manifold as gte coils wont fit.

If you decide to do that I can help you rewire from the tt ignitor and coils to the vvti ignitor and coils, I do not have a diagram posted for that as we usually start with a GE harness.
But the take away is the distributor already has the cam and crank signals needed to run a gte ecu, so you can reuse your harness but you will have to rewire some.

The other option would be to use a 2jzge harness, and have it wired up to the 300zx body plugs, and then add ignition but if you have a good 2jzgte > 300zx harness already, I would just rewire that one.
 
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Please stop me if I’m wrong but the simplest route could be would be to reroute the cam signals to the dizzy.

Do a newer style oil pump with a 24tooth trigger wheel in preparation for potential standalone use in the future. (this actually isn’t the simplest option for the crank signal however I’ve had bad experience with using the dizzy for a crank signal on AEM when I did my own NAT set up on my own car this the newer hardware was my work around.

Then Gte coils should be plug and play correct?

With gte coils equiped the only modification necessary is re locating the cam signals to the dizzy and the crank signal if not adapted to with hardware already.

Is the return igf signal not an issue?
*edit FFIM Already equipped so clearance is a non issue
 
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