Yes, that would be the simplest thing to do is re-wire to the dizzy.
Make sure to note the polarity on the crank and cam sensors when you re-wire them.
one pin is a special ground for those 3 sensors, and the other pin will be the signal wire for that sensor.
when re-wiring you have to make sure to get it right, cause you don't have the connector to keep it all sorted out like when stock.
the distributor has 4 wires, NE (crank signal), G1 (cam tdc#1), G2 (cam tdc#6), and G- which is a shared ground for all 3 sensors.
so make sure the ground wire from the 2 cam sensors and the crank sensor go to G- (3 wires to this one pin on dizzy plug).
Then the 3 signal wires each get their own wire to the distributor.
Shouldn't take very long to rewire this at all.
The aem v1 is not very good at picking up the crank signal you are right, it improved in later years but it varies from dizzy to dizzy.
If you want a solid setup and don't mind changing the oil pump, use the vvti ge oil pump and put a trigger wheel in there as a backup (or use it as primary crank signal).
The newer style oil pump just has the spot for the crank sensor, you can still run an older 12 tooth wheel behind it if you like and use that for the crank sensor.
Then you just need to rewire the cam signals to the dizzy. Make sure to spot weld the 12 tooth wheel while its out of the car they tend to separate over time.
the newer vvti 36-2 tooth wheel is already one piece and does not need to be welded, you could also use this one with a standalone and one crank trigger like a vvti is setup.
The standalones do not need IGF returned to the ecu. The only time you worry about IGF is the stock toyota ecu and with the tt ecu mod.
The gte coils and ignitor should plug in and work if it is a gte harness, and IGF should already be hooked up so you would be good with the tt ecu mod there.
Sounds like all you need to do is rewire the cam and crank.
also depending on the tps you are using, the pins 1-4 are reversed from gte to ge cause they turn different directions.
So depending on the throtle body you are using, use the wiring guide for a gte since your harness is a gte.
Make sure to note the polarity on the crank and cam sensors when you re-wire them.
one pin is a special ground for those 3 sensors, and the other pin will be the signal wire for that sensor.
when re-wiring you have to make sure to get it right, cause you don't have the connector to keep it all sorted out like when stock.
the distributor has 4 wires, NE (crank signal), G1 (cam tdc#1), G2 (cam tdc#6), and G- which is a shared ground for all 3 sensors.
so make sure the ground wire from the 2 cam sensors and the crank sensor go to G- (3 wires to this one pin on dizzy plug).
Then the 3 signal wires each get their own wire to the distributor.
Shouldn't take very long to rewire this at all.
The aem v1 is not very good at picking up the crank signal you are right, it improved in later years but it varies from dizzy to dizzy.
If you want a solid setup and don't mind changing the oil pump, use the vvti ge oil pump and put a trigger wheel in there as a backup (or use it as primary crank signal).
The newer style oil pump just has the spot for the crank sensor, you can still run an older 12 tooth wheel behind it if you like and use that for the crank sensor.
Then you just need to rewire the cam signals to the dizzy. Make sure to spot weld the 12 tooth wheel while its out of the car they tend to separate over time.
the newer vvti 36-2 tooth wheel is already one piece and does not need to be welded, you could also use this one with a standalone and one crank trigger like a vvti is setup.
The standalones do not need IGF returned to the ecu. The only time you worry about IGF is the stock toyota ecu and with the tt ecu mod.
The gte coils and ignitor should plug in and work if it is a gte harness, and IGF should already be hooked up so you would be good with the tt ecu mod there.
Sounds like all you need to do is rewire the cam and crank.
also depending on the tps you are using, the pins 1-4 are reversed from gte to ge cause they turn different directions.
So depending on the throtle body you are using, use the wiring guide for a gte since your harness is a gte.
