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Discussion Starter #101
Yes, that would be the simplest thing to do is re-wire to the dizzy.

Make sure to note the polarity on the crank and cam sensors when you re-wire them.
one pin is a special ground for those 3 sensors, and the other pin will be the signal wire for that sensor.
when re-wiring you have to make sure to get it right, cause you don't have the connector to keep it all sorted out like when stock.

the distributor has 4 wires, NE (crank signal), G1 (cam tdc#1), G2 (cam tdc#6), and G- which is a shared ground for all 3 sensors.
so make sure the ground wire from the 2 cam sensors and the crank sensor go to G- (3 wires to this one pin on dizzy plug).
Then the 3 signal wires each get their own wire to the distributor.
Shouldn't take very long to rewire this at all.

The aem v1 is not very good at picking up the crank signal you are right, it improved in later years but it varies from dizzy to dizzy.
If you want a solid setup and don't mind changing the oil pump, use the vvti ge oil pump and put a trigger wheel in there as a backup (or use it as primary crank signal).
The newer style oil pump just has the spot for the crank sensor, you can still run an older 12 tooth wheel behind it if you like and use that for the crank sensor.
Then you just need to rewire the cam signals to the dizzy. Make sure to spot weld the 12 tooth wheel while its out of the car they tend to separate over time.

the newer vvti 36-2 tooth wheel is already one piece and does not need to be welded, you could also use this one with a standalone and one crank trigger like a vvti is setup.

The standalones do not need IGF returned to the ecu. The only time you worry about IGF is the stock toyota ecu and with the tt ecu mod.
The gte coils and ignitor should plug in and work if it is a gte harness, and IGF should already be hooked up so you would be good with the tt ecu mod there.

Sounds like all you need to do is rewire the cam and crank.
also depending on the tps you are using, the pins 1-4 are reversed from gte to ge cause they turn different directions.
So depending on the throtle body you are using, use the wiring guide for a gte since your harness is a gte.
 

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Soo, I have a 94 n/a supra and I bought everything I need to do this except for the "5 extra ecu pins" I can't seem to find them anywhere and I'm not 100% on what I'm looking for exactly. Do you need a certain size or what? If anyone could give me a direct link so I can just buy them I would appreciate it!
 

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Discussion Starter #103
look for "040" repair wire online, here is a link to driftmotion as an example.

you can also just get 040 mutilock terminals and make your own repair wires by soldering on a wire, but the repair wires are cheap enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #107
Please don't try and use the GTE intake manifold on a GE engine like the guy in the video, it is literally the worst thing for your na-t build for so many reasons... the airflow is not ideal and not even no matter how you adapt it cause some of the runners have to take a turn the others do not have to, its all messed up and sticks out way to far due to the lower GE runners being longer/different angle.
Just don't do it, get a ffim and save a 2JZGE... OR use the stock intake manifold, na-t setups have made close to 1k hp on the stock intake manifold.
 

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Ninja
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Please don't try and use the GTE intake manifold on a GE engine like the guy in the video, it is literally the worst thing for your na-t build for so many reasons... the airflow is not ideal and not even no matter how you adapt it cause some of the runners have to take a turn the others do not have to, its all messed up and sticks out way to far due to the lower GE runners being longer/different angle.
Just don't do it, get a ffim and save a 2JZGE... OR use the stock intake manifold, na-t setups have made close to 1k hp on the stock intake manifold.
You are the man and I completely agree!!! I just started my gte ecu mod yesterday following your write up. Luckily my Supra is a 94 rhd 5 speed and I was able to get a jdm gte manual ecu. I already have the mad and ait sensor in the placed I needed them so didn’t have to wire anything there just change them out. Got the coils in and injectors replaced, changed the valve covers gaskets and closed everything up. Now I’m at the point to wire up the everything but I’m a bit stuck. Do I have to keep the stock ignition coil plugged in? Also, can you help me out to confirm that I have the wires labeled right to plug them into the igniter? And anyway to hold the coils down with some kind of bracket? They seem to wiggle 🤣😂. Thank you soooooooooo much!!!!
255092

255093
 

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Discussion Starter #109 (Edited)
It looks right to me, you don't need the original coil plugged in or going to the ignitor anymore, but there is a white/grey plug next to the stock coil bracket with 2 wires going to it. that is the noise filter for the ignition system, you want to leave that guy plugged in just like it was, do not unplug it.

For the new vvti coils, they do tend to be a little loose and wiggle depending on how fresh those lower boots are.
You can wedge something on the sides of them to the valvecover and that usually snugs them up pretty good, I have seen people use those small rubber sticky things on the side of the coils like for furniture or glass tables etc.. I have personally run them without anything and just wiggling around just fine also, I usually route the extra coil wires to the sides of them and takes up some of the space. Just make sure nothing is getting pinched or it will ground out to the valve cover and youll get misfires instead of spark. if you are using new wires that is less likely to happen though.

you can see those stickers in this old picture that has been floating around forever
 

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Ninja
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It looks right to me, you don't need the original coil plugged in or going to the ignitor anymore, but there is a white/grey plug next to the stock coil bracket with 2 wires going to it. that is the noise filter for the ignition system, you want to leave that guy plugged in just like it was, do not unplug it.

For the new vvti coils, they do tend to be a little loose and wiggle depending on how fresh those lower boots are.
You can wedge something on the sides of them to the valvecover and that usually snugs them up pretty good, I have seen people use those small rubber sticky things on the side of the coils like for furniture or glass tables etc.. I have personally run them without anything and just wiggling around just fine also, I usually route the extra coil wires to the sides of them and takes up some of the space. Just make sure nothing is getting pinched or it will ground out to the valve cover and youll get misfires instead of spark. if you are using new wires that is less likely to happen though.

you can see those stickers in this old picture that has been floating around forever
Awesome man you are the ish!!!! You can definitely use that picture of the oem ignitor wire labeled to put on your sticky to help people out. It's from a 94 RHD Manual Supra. I can't wait to go home today and finish the wiring to start her up lol!!! I'm just having a bit of a difficult time pulling out the wire harness to the ecu after I unplugged everything to work on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #111
make sure to pop off those 3 yellow covers, and carefully take the pins out. if you break the tabs for the pins on that connector, theyll never stay in right and give you issues.
when you put the pins in, listen for a firm click into place, give it the old wiggle test gently to make sure its seated. good luck!!
 

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Ninja
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make sure to pop off those 3 yellow covers, and carefully take the pins out. if you break the tabs for the pins on that connector, theyll never stay in right and give you issues.
when you put the pins in, listen for a firm click into place, give it the old wiggle test gently to make sure its seated. good luck!!
So got it all done. But my speedometer is way off and the rpm’s don’t work. What exactly do I have to do for the tach to work? Any pictures of what needs to be done? Also I haven’t installed the turbo kit yet but I can tell the car is running rich as hell and has a little bit of a misfire.
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Also trying to figure out where to run the feed and return coolant lines to the turbo. Lmao!!! This is gonna be fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #114
speedometer shouldn't have been affected, tach you need to jump the resistor on the back of the cluster like for any swap on these cars.

Normally most only run oil cooled turbo's, but you could probably modify the coolant lines that go to the throttle body to go through the turbo instead, or both.

Don't forget to check the timing, don't assume it is in the right place.
 

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Ninja
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speedometer shouldn't have been affected, tach you need to jump the resistor on the back of the cluster like for any swap on these cars.

Normally most only run oil cooled turbo's, but you could probably modify the coolant lines that go to the throttle body to go through the turbo instead, or both.

Don't forget to check the timing, don't assume it is in the right place.
I did the ECU Mod without putting the turbo kit on yet as I wanted to make sure it ran before I added more crap to the equation LMAO!!! I just removed the intake and headers, tapped the oil pan, installed the intercooler and ran most of the piping. I'm running the stock head gasket for now so definitely need to reduce my timing per your suggestion of 6-8. Stupid question but the vacuum line to the boost gauge, can I run it off of the second port on the wastegate? I don't have a boost controller and I'm going to be running off of the wastegate spring of 8 psi. Thank you man I really do appreciate you answering my dumbass questions 🤣 🤣 🤣
 

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Discussion Starter #116
run it closer to 8 degrees, 6 is a bit low and can cause other issues haven't updated it yet.

You cannot run it off the wastegate, it will affect your boost and won't read right.
For the boost gauge you should really run it off the intake manifold somewhere, tee into a stock vacuum line like the one going to the heater or something.
For the map sensor, Tee it into your fuel pressure regulator vac line or similar. you can also get a fitting to use the stock JDM location on the back which has a plug in it on our cars, either way.
 
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So I just wanted to say that this has been an amazing mod and truly changed my car. OBD1 JDM Aristo ECU. I am using IS300 Coils and a small 60 trim turbo. I'm running 440cc injectors. The car has always idled at about 14.6 and also with steady throttle crusing. I have a Tial wastegate with 8 lb spring and under boost at WOT I might have seen it maybe hit 9 lbs and the AFRs dip down to around 9-10. It just pulls so good and has run so nice.

So a few weeks ago we had cool weather come through here in the 40s-50s and I took the car to work and everything was great. On my way home that night everything still was good then at one point when the back road I take home was clear I got on it and as it started to pull it hit boost cut. Scared the shit out of me lol. I'm assuming from the cold air probably. So since the ECU isn't modified I stayed off it on the way home. Right before I got home I noticed the AFR was reading around 10.8 which was a lot more rich. And the idle was a little rough. Since then it now idles at 10.9 and today we are in the 70s and I took it for a spin and it backfires when I get on it. I though maybe I just fouled the plugs out since they were still the NA NGKs so I installed the BKR6EIX with 0.32 gap to see if it helps and it hasn't changed anything. Not sure if anyone has had the same thing happen to them or not. The car sat for a year before I finished up the NA T setup and it had a little bit of gas in it when it was sitting and I put water displacement before it sat for a year and once it was running I put a half tank of fresh 93 that it's been running on fine since then so i don't think I got bad fuel. Any ideas I'd appreciate it.
 

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Pulled codes and got code 21. Not sure if it can cause it to run rich like that but I got another O2 sensor I can try out. I am still using the single wire sensor and have yet to convert to 4 wire but it was running beautiful
 

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Discussion Starter #119
21 is probably due to not having the 4 wire oxygen sensor connected, the ecu knows if the heater wires are not connected.
I would look to do it in the future as it will confuse the ecu less while its warming up.

Sounds like it was running perfect then it started running rich after you hit boost cut.
It could be the cold air but boost cut is a fair amount above 8 psi, so I would check your wastegate line is not melted etc.. give it a good look over that no lines came off.
my first thought is you blew a coupler or line off somewhere which can cause fueling issues like that, check the map sensor connections and IC piping.
It almost always happens when someone overboosts the first time for whatever reason as none of your stuff has been run at that psi before.

The nice thing about map sensor cars is you can usually limp it home when that happens.
on a maf model if you blow a coupler that usually means it will stall out till you fix it.
Have had that exact thing happen in a usdm model that had to be fixed before it could be driven again.
So give it a good look over, if all else looks good try resetting the ecu and get the heated o2 in soon to keep it happy.
 

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21 is probably due to not having the 4 wire oxygen sensor connected, the ecu knows if the heater wires are not connected.
I would look to do it in the future as it will confuse the ecu less while its warming up.

Sounds like it was running perfect then it started running rich after you hit boost cut.
It could be the cold air but boost cut is a fair amount above 8 psi, so I would check your wastegate line is not melted etc.. give it a good look over that no lines came off.
my first thought is you blew a coupler or line off somewhere which can cause fueling issues like that, check the map sensor connections and IC piping.
It almost always happens when someone overboosts the first time for whatever reason as none of your stuff has been run at that psi before.

The nice thing about map sensor cars is you can usually limp it home when that happens.
on a maf model if you blow a coupler that usually means it will stall out till you fix it.
Have had that exact thing happen in a usdm model that had to be fixed before it could be driven again.
So give it a good look over, if all else looks good try resetting the ecu and get the heated o2 in soon to keep it happy.
Thanks for the response and ideas. I was just coming on here to give an update and seen you responded. Yes I was able to drive it nice and easy but as soon as I gave it too much throttle it would break up bad.

So I swapped out the O2 with a spare and it still was running rich but not quite as bad. AFR reading was about 11.9 Still would break up under load. So I started to look around at other things.

I ran the engine and removed the vac line to the FPR to see if maybe the diaphram had a leak and it was sucking in fuel. It did have a faint smell of fuel but I never seen fuel come out. I applied a little bit of vacuum too and no fuel found.

I inspected the MAP and noticed all the black resin on the bottom of it was really shrunken in and dried out. For the Hell of it I filled it in with RTV and leveled out nice and neat. I let it sit over night to dry. Next afternoon I started it up again and seen that after warming up my AFR was 13.9 - 14.1 which was a big improvement. I then took it for a spin and put some more fresh gas in it. On the way home I tried it out and it was holding boost. So then I really got on it and it was pulling nice and stayed in boost. It is running a bit more rich than before but otherwise appears to be running good.

I got my 4 wire O2 in the mail and just have to make time to install. Should take care of that code. So far so good and once again I gotta say that this is a great mod. I was never looking for a ton of power with this car just something to make it feel like it can easily get out of it's own way plus a little extra along with being reliable and just turn the key and everything works.
 
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