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Discussion Starter #1
So ive been searching for a solution as for why my alignment keeps changing. is worn control arm bushings problem for this? my front tires are wearing badly on the inside which seems to be common for supras apparently. but my front right tire is MUCH worse than my left. Also i notice that my steering wheel begins to get crooked to the right after a few weeks of being aligned.

My car has been aligned to factory specs several times and within a month it changes significantly outside of the tolerances. Im hoping it is a simple solution of swapping the bushings to fix this. but im wondering if there are other reasons for the alignment not staying put. I just dont want to buy something if it doesnt resolve my problem at all.

my car is a DD and i dont drive it hard at all. I take every speed bump and driveway slowly so my driving is not the reason.

Any input is greatly appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
its lowered but not by much. it has crappy D2 coilovers on it rite now. id say its got about an inch of wheel gap to the fender on 18in wheels.
 

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How long have u had the D2 Coilovers and about how many miles have u done on it... (coilovers)
 

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could be your coilovers, it might not lock your height correctly so check that.
could also be your bushing, control arm or something as your bolts being old and worn out. Ask the shop to put lock tight on next time, in the mean time checks those things out.
 

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^I think he's on to something. If the locking rings keep loosening up your alignment will change. Double check your locking rings and go get another alignment.
 

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If they are loose when you go to tighten them up use some threadlocker red. I like the new Permatex Gel. Works great. Good Luck
 

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Im having the same problem as the OP but im just one Lowering springs and stock struts.
 

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First off, the factory alignment specs are terrible for tire wear, especially for those running larger than the oem tire sizes.
Go with the so-called 'Lance' Alignment next time: http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/lance_alignment/index.html

The caster settings of the Lance alignment will greatly improve steering feel, while the toe settings will help both tire wear and grip.


As for your problem, I don't think you need to worry about loc-titing your coilover collars, as you're not reporting a ride height change in your front wheels. While a gradual change in ride height could certainly affect the alignment negatively, it would also be obviously lower on the right side front if this were the cause of your problems. Since you didn't notice this (and it'd be easy to notice) I think we can safely rule out the issue being ride height, although the more you lower these cars, the more it negatively affects our suspension geometry and camber curve.



Given the age of these cars, It's likely that your car needs new balljoints/bushings/tie rod ends. These cars are getting old and even if it's a low mileage car, the bushings are still >13 years old.

Ball joints and tie rod ends can be easily diagnosed by getting the car on jackstands or a lift, and simply pushing forcefully on the top and bottom edge of each wheel like you're trying to 'rock' it up and down. This should be very solid, if there's any 'slop', then getting an alignment is worthless as the tire itself can shake around loose within that range of motion.

Similarly, any slop in the steering rack bushing and the tie rod ends will be seen if you put your hands on the left and right sides of the tire, turn the wheel by hand until the steering wheel locks, and then rocking it back and forth along the left-right axis. Again, if there's even 1mm of motion, there's too much slop in the system and either the tie rod ends, ball joints, or steering rack bushing can cause this.

Control arm bushings are harder to isolate specifically, and they are also a pretty big PITA to replace of all of them.

That all being said, I'm 99% convinced that if you replaced your control arm bushings, tie rod ends, and steering rack bushings, and then got a Lance alignment, you wouldn't have this changing alignment issue anymore and the car would handle/track/drive much better.

Ball joints are rarely the specific problem, which is good because the only way to replace them all is to replace the upper & lower control arms on all four corners (expensive). If you opt for that route though, the control arms also come with new bushings pressed in, so for a complete refresh you'd only need to add the tie rod ends and the steering rack bushing to the parts list.

Hope that helps!
 

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This is a typical problem. This happens when the alignment bolts are not tightened to factory specs. The bolts need to be tightened waaayyyyyy tighter than a tech would typically dare.

Get your aligment done and watch them tighten the bolts to the factory specs and you won't have any more issues.

Later, Steve
 

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koji, i think ive had the coilovers for a little over a year now. So around 10000 miles on them so far.
Do me a favor... measure from the middle upper tire to the middle of the fender arch, for both side and tell me the measurements?
 

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Ya I drove my car today. I hit a wet patch I could feel my car shifted left and right while my steering wheel was straight. I think my rear right side is where the problem is coming from. So If I tighten my bolts it might fix it? or is it the bushings for sure? Ive only had the car for 2 and a half months now, and when I got it the steering wheel was straight on (And I was told it was recently aligned) but now my steering wheel is about 10 degrees to the left while I drive straight. I took a quick peak and my bushings didnt seem too bad. I guess Ill lift my car sometime soon and see if the wheels giggle at all.
 

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This is a typical problem. This happens when the alignment bolts are not tightened to factory specs. The bolts need to be tightened waaayyyyyy tighter than a tech would typically dare.

Get your aligment done and watch them tighten the bolts to the factory specs and you won't have any more issues.

Later, Steve
I suspect this as well. Have you tried a different alignment shop or just keep going to the same place?

Also the nuts need to be tightened whilst the suspension is under load.
 

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Had the same problem, turned out all my ball-joints are busted. Car's rear end veers to the left (driver's side) when accelerating hard. I changed the rear end completely (new arms, all of them) and problem went away. Now I'm saving up for the fronts.

Also check your tire pressure. If it's too hard / too soft the shock that the suspension absorbs is greater than what it was designed to so over time it will knock your alignment settings out faster although I suspect your problem is something else.

Might be a good time to get upgraded steering rack bushings. Battle Version, Powerflex and R2 Racing sell these bushings for about U$50-60 for a set. Worth it especially after doing the Lance W alignment. Steering feel has improved significantly!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for all the advice guys. hopefully i can get all this figured out.

Wreckless, i recently had my rack and pinion replaced so would that have replaced the steering rack bushings as well? im not certain where its located. pardon my noobness.

Martin F, Ive gone to two different places. One of them is Firestone where i have a lifetime alignment. The other is a Goodyear whom my uncle owns. The manager at goodyear said that if a place that offers that probably isnt doin a great job. but they use the same alignment machine.

botchilah, so since u havent replaced ur front balljoints are u having alignment issues as well?
 

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This is a typical problem. This happens when the alignment bolts are not tightened to factory specs. The bolts need to be tightened waaayyyyyy tighter than a tech would typically dare.

Get your aligment done and watch them tighten the bolts to the factory specs and you won't have any more issues.

Later, Steve
As usual Steve is correct:) Drift of static alignment is almost 100% due to improper tightening of the adjustment bolts and cams. The cams move and the alignment changes. Tire wear that occurs even when the static alignment shows well within spec is usually due to bushing wear which allows the dynamic (moving) alignment to change. This usually results on inner edge wear on both front and rear tires as the fronts go toe out under friction/rolling resistance load and the rears toe in under thrust load.

Oh, and type of machine is not as important as skill of the technician and whether the machine is properly calibrated. The Supra is very sensitive to even small errors in the toe setting and this is the measurement that the machines have the most difficulty getting right. 1-2 mm of error may not have much impact on most vehicles but on the Supra it can reduce tire life by 50% or more.
 

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This is a typical problem. This happens when the alignment bolts are not tightened to factory specs. The bolts need to be tightened waaayyyyyy tighter than a tech would typically dare.

Get your aligment done and watch them tighten the bolts to the factory specs and you won't have any more issues.

Later, Steve
Off memory it's 160 lf/lbs of torque for the lower control arm bolts.
Wreckless, i recently had my rack and pinion replaced so would that have replaced the steering rack bushings as well? im not certain where its located. pardon my noobness.
The bushings are inside the steering rack.

Also just throwing this out there; there is a stopper (48657-24020) in the LCA that I believe keeps your LCA from moving and if it gets worn / loose then that might be causing your alignment to get thrown out.

http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/messages/30604/252301.html
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So i checked using the methods of wreckless and it seems that everything is pretty tight. So I'm guessing the problem is the technicians arent tightening everything enough.

Do me a favor... measure from the middle upper tire to the middle of the fender arch, for both side and tell me the measurements?
im not completely certain what part u want me to measure. i measured ~2.5 in to the middle of the sidewall of the tire if thats what ur asking.

As usual Steve is correct:) Drift of static alignment is almost 100% due to improper tightening of the adjustment bolts and cams. The cams move and the alignment changes. Tire wear that occurs even when the static alignment shows well within spec is usually due to bushing wear which allows the dynamic (moving) alignment to change. This usually results on inner edge wear on both front and rear tires as the fronts go toe out under friction/rolling resistance load and the rears toe in under thrust load.
So since there is no wobble on my wheels, could it still be my control arm bushings? because what u describe seems to match whats goin on with my tires. When i leave the alignment machine, everythings within spec but my tire wear looks like its only riding on less than two inches of tread on the inside.
 
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