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Fastest Factory Auto
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Discussion Starter #1
Couple miata questions, for my girlfriends 95 miata, figured I'd ask here since I know theres quite a few miata people on here.

It needs a rear main seal (best guess anyway), anyone know any sites with a howto on doing this?

Need to change trans/diff fluids, any suggestions on what fluids to use?

Thanks
 

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Wobbiest: Three Laws Safe
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6,137 Posts
Not a bad job - no different than any other car really - with the exception of the PPF.

Miata.net will have a walk thru.

Read that but essentially:

Unbolt the forward cat pipe from the manifold. Thin its a 3 14mm bolts and then there is a attachment on the tranny. That may be 14 or 12mm I dont recall. Just remove the whole exhaust all the way back - it will just be in the way. It will fit through the rear subframe brace without removing it if the car is up high enough to turn the exhaust ~70 degrees.

Unbolt the front two bolts of the PPF from the tranny. Move that out of the way.

Unbolt the driveshaft from the rear.

Unscrew the reverse light sensor. I actually cut my wires and installed connectors - it can be a pain to unscrew it. Unscrew the speedo cable.

Remove the center console in the interior. 5 screws - two in the compartment, two on either side of the shifter and one in the ashtray spot. You will have to unscrew the shift knob before. Remove the shifter. Should be 3 10mm bolts. Now is a good time to replace the collars and plastics on the shifter if you want to get any slop out of the shifter. Take a turkey baster and suck out the fluid in the turret. Its a good time to replace those old and probably torn upper and lower shifter boots too.

Drain the tranny.

Unbolt the tranny. Its easier to remove the CAS sensor on the back of the head first. MARK IT. Draw two lines across the CAS to the head. When it comes time to bolt it back up, line up the lines and your timing should be still set. Double check it anyway after, but I have never had a problem. Now is also a good time to replace the CAS seal. There are 11 IIRC bolts. 3 14mm and 8 17mm I think. There will also be a bracket for the slave cylinder to remove. Note which come from each hole. Some are very different. You may need to take off the heater core hose(s) to access bolts up top a little easier. You are going to need a universal, 1/2 drive ratchet, a good sized extension, some umpf and some finagling for some bolts. Wrenches are easier for up top. A second hand is very nice with this job btw. I usually back out the top bolts to still hold the weight but easy to remove from up top. If you dont have a tranny jack, than your best bet depends on how high the car is. If its only two feet or so, I suggest you use your elbow at a 90 degree angle and hold the front of the tranny up with your hand and have your elbow on the ground, then you can use your other arm to wiggle the back of the tranny. I wrap a rope around the back of the tranny up through the turret hole and knot it to a piece of wood or a big ratchet or somethign to hold the back of the tranny up. If the car is higher than two foot, you can lay under the tranny and bring it down onto your chest and roll it off after. Its only about 70 lbs. Have your buddy loosen the bolts up top as you hold the weight up. Once they are off wiggle the crap out of it. Your buddy should put some weight down on the front of the engine. It will help it come off. It will take a little effort, but its more just positioning your body right for the weight.

After the tranny is out, now is a good time to replace the clutch and have the flywheel resurfaced, or ahem, lightweight fly and new clutch :) Also is now a good time to replace the throwout bearing, clean up the inside of the bellhousing, replace the front and rear tranny seals too. I can give you info on how to do this if you choose to do it. I recommend it though - the tranny is out already. Save yourself later headache.

Unbolt the pressure plate. Its 6 17mm bolts IIRC. Be sure to hold the plate up to the flywheel or the clutch will drop out from under you. Not good if you are not replacing it. Mind you again, unless its brand new, its probably a good time to do it.

Unbolt the flywheel. Ok, so these bolts are super tight tqwise, bt they have loctite on them. If you have air, just brrrrrrrrrrripppp and they are off. If not, some people have luck wedging a pipe against the flywheel teeth and ground to keep from rotating the engine. Me? I just make a bracket to bolt from a tranny hole to a pressure plate hole on the flywheel. Makes life way easier. I have one for that and one for the front crank pulley - two of my favorite, cheapest and sanity keeping Miata tools.

To get the rear main seal off, I just drill in the middle of the seal VERY CAREFULLY a small hole. Dont go too deep, just get through the little metal part of the seal and STOP. Screw a little sheet metal screw and get a claw hammer or little slide hammer and pry it out. Dont stick screw drivers or anything in the sides - you damage the walls, you will have leaks. Just be very careful - loads of aluminum on Miatas. Dont use a seal pick.

Clean the seal hole. Very, very lightly oil the new seal and install the same way the old one came out - sides matter. I found the easiest way is to take a small piece of wood and put the seal against the hole as flat as possible, place the wood against the seal and gently start tapping the wood with a hammer to seat the seal. Work your way around. Take your time and make install it is installed straight. Once the seal face is flush with the outer lip of the block, that is done. Dont keep pressing it in further. Flush and even = done.

Than reverse the directions really. Your life will easier with a clutch alignment tool if your using the old clutch. (You'll get one with a new clutch).
Putting the tranny back on is just a wiggle fest again.

I would again, replace as much as possible in terms of seals, clutch, etc while you are doing this. Its a not a hard job, just time consuming.

Feel free to hit me up if you have any roadblocks while doing it. Its ashame you arent closer, i'd help a playa out. I dont recall tq specs off the top of head, so check those out for sure too. Dont forget to put tranny fluid in again. I use Redline for the tranny and rear. No complaints. And pour fluid in the turret too. It should come to the bottom of the white collar lip and thats it.

Some little stuff I am leaving out, but its just stuff you will figure on the way, little things that need to moved, unbolted, etc. But nothing major.

Good luck.
 

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Wobbiest: Three Laws Safe
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I have Miata trannies out too much :lol:
 

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Fastest Factory Auto
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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Wob.. I just need to get off my ass and stop talking myself out of screwing with her car.

Trying to think of anything else her car might need at the same time.. Dont really know shit about miatas, they have timing belts or chains? Probably should do that too, hell at that point its probably just easier to pull the motor and do all the seals, belts, waterpump, etc

How about the flywheel, is it a 2step? if so what should the step height be machined to?
 

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Wobbiest: Three Laws Safe
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Its not a hard job if you are pretty smart with cars. Its just nuts and bolts you know? But if you arent familiar with this kind of thing, its probably good to have a buddy there who is because it still is a relatively big job.
 

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Fastest Factory Auto
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2,228 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Think I can handle it ;) I did used to own a dsm after all... (I've built abou 75 motors for different dsm guys, do all of the work/maintenance on my own cars, etc).. I just dont want to screw something up on her car... I'd never hear the end of it
 

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Fastest Factory Auto
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2,228 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I'll check out miata.net, her car needs some serious attention.. in the past several years, its only maintenance has been occasional oil changes.. and me putting a new glass window top on (pain in the [email protected][email protected]! ass)
 

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Passion Driven
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1,689 Posts
Wob/AutoXr/Steve:

Do you think I should list my Miata on miata.net? Autotrader? Craigslist? All three?

I have it listed here and on Craigslist, but I'm thinking miata.net will be worth the $30 they charge (well duh, its a MIATA forum eh...)

But I am not sure if it's worth putting it on Autotrader too ($65)
 

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Wobbiest: Three Laws Safe
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6,137 Posts
Thanks Wob.. I just need to get off my ass and stop talking myself out of screwing with her car.

Trying to think of anything else her car might need at the same time.. Dont really know shit about miatas, they have timing belts or chains? Probably should do that too, hell at that point its probably just easier to pull the motor and do all the seals, belts, waterpump, etc

How about the flywheel, is it a 2step? if so what should the step height be machined to?
Timing belt - and if you have an engine stand it is easier to just pull the whole engine, otherwise, leaving the short block in is helpful as a stand.

Do a waterpump at the same time too then and the front crank seal and cam seals too. No special tools - same as any other DOHC engine. I can walk you through it if you go that route too. Seems like you know what you are doing, so dont be scared of it. Just an engine :dunno: Just dont counter-rotate the cams, and dont skip a tooth on the belt. Use the same method for replacing the crank and cam seals (screw and slide hammer).
 

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Wobbiest: Three Laws Safe
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6,137 Posts
Wob/AutoXr/Steve:

Do you think I should list my Miata on miata.net? Autotrader? Craigslist? All three?

I have it listed here and on Craigslist, but I'm thinking miata.net will be worth the $30 they charge (well duh, its a MIATA forum eh...)

But I am not sure if it's worth putting it on Autotrader too ($65)
Miata.net tends to bring higher prices, but people also come to expect better quality examples. I think it depends on urgency. Ebay for fastest and largest market but market price, miata.net for higher price but more time.

Autotrader and Craigslist fall in between I think - but thats just my opinion.
 

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AKA Muddy
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737 Posts
Wob/AutoXr/Steve:

Do you think I should list my Miata on miata.net? Autotrader? Craigslist? All three?

I have it listed here and on Craigslist, but I'm thinking miata.net will be worth the $30 they charge (well duh, its a MIATA forum eh...)

But I am not sure if it's worth putting it on Autotrader too ($65)
Eh, all the miata.netters that are searching also check ebay and craiglist. One way to get some free attention on miata.net is to go into the pricing forum, post the details of your car and ask people about the value of your car. Then PM people if they show interest, or they may PM you.

When I sold my 10AE, I got no attention until I put it on ebay. I didn't try craigslist or miata.net, though.
 

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Wobbiest: Three Laws Safe
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:lol:
 

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Passion Driven
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So guys what do you think of my pricing for the miata?

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=529143

Blue book is (from excellent to poor) - $7800 / $7300 / $6600

All thing considered (price negotiable based on the rims situation) I was hoping for $7300 with good rim/tires and $6900 without. I was offered $6500 today in person from someone who test drove the car. I felt that was too low.

Thoughts?

And what would you pay for a great set of 15" NB OEM with great condition center caps (no yellow! All silver!) and only ~1500 miles on 205 Dunlop Direzza DZ101's (Ultra High Performance Summer Tire)?

I paid $300 for the 15" Rims with poor center caps and NO tires, then $288 for the Dunlops brand new.

I was thinking $450?
 
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