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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Its kinda starting. will run for a few seconds everty now and then. I think it has to do with the base timing being off. I gotta read the manual and figure out how to make sure its set at 10btdc.

Running of a 2jz map too, but I still think its close enough to start a 1jz.

Anyone setup a e11v2 on a 1jz? Could use some tips...
 

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on microtech, lock timing, check timing with timing light, adjust, unlock timing. Unsure for haltech.

I got my car started for first time with microtech on the weekend too :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yeah thats what im suppose to do, what do you hook your timing light up to? Just the hot wiring going from the ignitor to the coil?
 

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I have 2 leads that I fit on the plug and I chopped the other end. You basically jam the other end into the coil and fit the timing light attachment on cyl 1 lead as you normally would.

Anyone know another way?
 

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I've installed Haltechs in FCs, FD, SR20 240SXs, small block Chevys, and even a 20-valve AE86. I haven't done one with the 1JZ/2JZ but its all the same.

Hook your timing light up around the wire loom for the #1 coil pack. Go into the Haltech software, go to Ignition Setup, lock the timing with a value of 10 (for 10 BTDC), and check the timing. What's your trigger setup? What's your base timing? If you can, do a data log when idling (or even starting) and send it to my [email protected] That way I can see what your injector mS and timing advance is. Also email me your map and I'll double check your setup for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
problem is I cant get it to run for more than a second. suppose I can still check the timing while its turning over. Unfortunately I've been sick ever since I got the wiring completed, and havent even been able to play with the car. Hope I get over this damn head cold soon.
 

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airbats801 said:
problem is I cant get it to run for more than a second. suppose I can still check the timing while its turning over. Unfortunately I've been sick ever since I got the wiring completed, and havent even been able to play with the car. Hope I get over this damn head cold soon.
You can still check & set timing with the engine not running. Go into the Fuel Setup, and uncheck the "Enable Injectors" check box. Hit "Ok", and have someone turn the engine over with the key while you use the timing light. You can also datalog while trying to start, that way you can see what the 0 & 500 rpm timing maps are doing with your idle timing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
kaosman said:
You can still check & set timing with the engine not running. Go into the Fuel Setup, and uncheck the "Enable Injectors" check box. Hit "Ok", and have someone turn the engine over with the key while you use the timing light. You can also datalog while trying to start, that way you can see what the 0 & 500 rpm timing maps are doing with your idle timing.
Yeah, I figure I can just do that. I played around with the logging when I first tried to start it, still getting a grip on how to read all the data though. Thanks for the help. I'll get back to you when get a chance to go out and work on the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
just realized I had my crank sensor wires wired up backwards. If it would stop raining, maybe I could go out and work on the car... I figure the sensor wired up backwards could be a problem :) Possibly it was only getting the trigger signal from the cam, and not a home signal. I thikn I logged my signals, so I'll have to toss a battery in and power up the haltech and download the map off it and see what was going on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
e11v2
 

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ah i c i have a chance to buy a ek6 for cheap but i'm not sure if i should
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
everyone seems to like them. You can run all the stock sensors off one. Only thing is you cant run sequential injection, which isnt a huge deal. I got a stupid good deal on my e11v2. its a lot better than a piggy back imo. Very easy to wire up also. Haltech has the diagrams for the iscv, ignitor, and cam/crank angle sensors, the rest is a no brainer.


Back to my timing, I cant even find me damn ignition mark, so its way the hell off, gotta go jump my car because im burning this crappy old battery out,
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
alright im firing 150 degrees ATDC off... Any ideas why? I dont think its possible to mess up the timing on the cam and crank if I have the cam gears and crank aligned correctly.

Can someone give me the firing angles?

hmm, think I may have found my problem, this 2jz basemap has the tooth offset at 10, but it should be 2, hope this fixes it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
they specifically say to run the cam sensor closest to number 1.

I changed the offset, and its about 80 btdc now

Here is my ignition setup

ignition settings are
locked at 10
trigger angle btdc70
tooth offset 2
constant charge 3
constant duty 70
spark break 600

Here is my trigger setup also


I'm, going to try this other trigger setup I was given, and see if it makes any difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'll snoop around there later tonight, had to stop because I was making some progress and the engine was starting to get too warm "no water in it yet"

Anyways, here is a vid, I can get it to crank at 10btdc, but once it starts, timing jumps to around 30btdc...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TyNUHBLvPwI
 

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IIRC the crank & cam triggers on the 2JZ/1JZ are Hall Effect sensors. For Hall Effect, you definately want to choose Hall Effect mode. Try that and see if it helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I believe its reluctor, anyways, the 2jz base map and the 1jz base map had it setup that way, that I have.

I will try running off the rear cam angle sensor though. Found a thread on toymod that mentions something about them running off the rear sensor, and having similar settings as my 2jz base map, so hopefully that will improve something.
 
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