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Discussion Starter #1
My supra's a 90T automatic. I've had my supra in the shop ever since I've owned it. I've only drove it a total of 1000 miles. The current engine will be it's third, so I'm trying to do it right. The vehicle is currently in the shop with the follow done and /or getting installed.

So far the head and manifolds have been ported and polished, Updated OEM HG and complete gasket kit, ARP studs, have a complete 3" exhaust from the custom turbo elbow to the dynomax straight through muffler (no cats in between), hks sqv bov kit (includes flange and pipe), NGK Iridium plugs, Blitz SUS universal filter w/ 6" opening (w/ 3" bell adapter), IC hardpipes.

Also installing autometer boost gauge and A/F meter.


My question is, am I missing something? Is there some easy or inexpensive mod that will make my current ones even better?

Do I need a boost controller? Fuel cut defender? etc?

Please let me know,

Thanks
 

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Go All Electric
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MarkIII4Me said:



My question is, am I missing something? Is there some easy or inexpensive mod that will make my current ones even better?

Do I need a boost controller? Fuel cut defender? etc?

Please let me know,

Thanks
This is difficult to answer without knowing what your goals are for the car (1/4 mile times, power, handling, powerband, etc). Tell us what you want out of the car and we can help you get it.

You double posted so I thought I would double reply. BUT ... mods should delete one of the threads. The other thread is in the mk3 tech section.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Want to create a reliable car with at least 300 crank horses.

I'm just worried about things like fuel cut and boost spikes.

What kind of boost gains would I see with the exhaust and intake (since I have no boost controller and don't want to add washers to the wastegate)?

BTW- I used the updated OEM HG because it comes with the complete engine gasket kit. I have HKS MHG in the engine I'm replacing (which only has 1k mi on it), however, I've been told by both my mechanic and the machine shop to just use the oem. Unlike the original, it has copper reenforcements along the cylinder walls. Highly doubt I'll blow it. And if I do, HKS to the rescue :)
 

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you're my boy blue.
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i would do the mhg in the first place. you said you want reliability. that is the biggest thing you can do to the 7m as for reliability in my opinion.

if the thing blew in 1000 miles its not the gasket, its the person who installed it, or the person who detonated.

you can get gasket kits that have everything but the head gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
As far as getting complete OEM engine gasket kits without the hg, they don't exist. Repeat- DON'T exist.
And if you buy the several gasket kits seperately, (which I did with the second engine which has the HKS MHG) it ends up costing even more.

The second engine didn't blow. My idiot friend never properly tightened the main pulley and it worked it's way loose. Either threw out the crank or the main bearing. Won't be sure until I get her opened up. The heads are cherry though. Lesson to all, don't let friends touch your car.

Now, can someone tell me how to squeeze some more power out of this thing without destroying my wallet?

And will I run into any problems with my current setup?
 

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you're my boy blue.
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well, i havent really looked, my engine blew not too long after i got it so i took it to the shop because i didnt know anything about cars at the time. i took my metal head gasket and arp's with me. i looked at the gasket set he had ordered and it said something along the lines of 7m-gte gasket kit w/o head gasket.

maybe he makes his own but i doubt it.
 

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Go All Electric
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Minimum:

Boost controller/wastegateshim set to 15psi max on stock turbo ct26 (there really isn't any reason why you should be concerned about shimming the wastegate if you have a good boost guage), egt guage, back-out stock AFM screw to raise "FC" to 16-18psi.
*+ your current mods list.

Possibly AFPR to increase fuel pressure, Possibly a fuel pump.
*I say possibly because on a motor running to stock spec others have not experienced problems with stock fuel. Monitor with your egt guage and a/f guage and maybe a wideband 02. If you notice that you run too lean and hot then get the fuel mods done.

This with your current mods should put you over 300hp crank.

If you really want to save money then due the wastegate shims and PVC intercooler pipe mod.

Links for help below:
Raising Fuel Cut with stock AFM.

PVC Intercooler pipes. *see links on jbl mk3 pages for parts needed and install write-up etc.

Want to run Dual stock intercoolers with PVC intercooler pipes?
Dual stock intercooler write-up.

These are the absolute cheapest ways to potentially relaible performance. BUT ... it is ALWAYS better to spend more money on good supporting mods to insure reliability (EX: ALL of the best COOLING and FUEL mods for your application).

Both the "cheap" method and the "expensive" methods can work great. The key to everything working well/reliably is TUNING.

Best regards.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks AWIDESUPIE,

your post was very helpful. Doesn't seem like you left anything out.

Anyone think they could add to that?
 

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Go All Electric
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MarkIII4Me said:
Thanks AWIDESUPIE,

your post was very helpful. Doesn't seem like you left anything out.

Anyone think they could add to that?
My pleasure. That's what we are all here to do, help eachother out.

Alot could be added to the "save your butt/be careful/expensive/reliability insured/support" mods list:D .

EDIT: You never mentioned anytihng about HANDLING.

Suspension upgrades are a MUST ... IMO. I think suspension should come before power.
 
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