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· MUDKIP FARMER
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Take the car to a professional paint shop and have them look at it and give you an estimate. The risk of doing it yourself if you are not too familiar isn't really worth it, and it can be really tricky to do something like that.
 

· BOOST IS BETTER!!
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· Registered
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Doing it myself, I'd try with the least abrasive product/technique 1st. Since your car was recently painted, we would hope that there clear is new and still thick.

Anyways, I'd start with a wool pad, 3M Rubbing compound, and a buffer/policher... not one of them super high-speed ones either. Your routine buffing/polishing orbital buffer type thing (~$20). Keep in mind that if you don't have this stuff already, it will cost a bunch and the body shop may charge about the same and guarantee the results.

Do that for awhile... Slight progress? Good progress? If slight or poor progress, after a loooong time (20 minutes in one area), then wetsanding will be the next step.

There is a technique to doing this. If you have not done it before, or aren't being supervised by someone who has, you are risking paint damage that the body shop may not be able to easily fix. STOP HERE, take it to the shop.

Read up on wetsanding tips, gotchas, and process/technique... even if you've done this before.

Then just go from most abrasive, to least. Each time further bringing out the shine and reducing the scratches to nothing.

The higher the grit, the better. You will easily find 2000 grit wetsand paper at the auto parts. Look for and get 2500 grit. It's slightly less abrassive than the 2000 grit.

After evenly wetsanding the bad paint off, you will use the rubbing compound, to eventually polish and a really good wax (I used to use Megauiar's).

Please read up before you follow my steps. they are definitely not detailed enough and you could FUBAR things in a worse way.

Good luck!
 

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laquer thinner, not acetone or paint thinner, something like 3900 or 3901, its mostly used as a wax and grease remover but it might work well for spray paint
 

· HMOOB VWJ NYOB MINNESOTA
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1,416 Posts
If the clear coat is new then it should be thick enough to use GUMOUT on it. Try it at a small corner and you'll see it work (no scratch).

 

· "Yeah! Take the lemons.."
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1,022 Posts
car wax+double aught steel woolage = got rid of water stains on my windows mite wrk on paint

or

claybar a bunch

or

2000grit sandpaper + water applied with moderate force in a "X" motion over small scratches fills them in, maybe it will work on spray paint?
 

· second chance at life
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Any pics? How much paint are we talking about? I would start with a polishing compound before going drastic with wetsanding. Steel wool? You must be crazy!
 

· Registered
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321 Posts
^Fuck all that shit...^

Go to your local Auto parts, or Auto body supply store, and ask for a can of "Graffiti Gone" or a similar product... Spray it on and wipe it away. Simple as that with no risk to your cars paint.

My car got "tagged" last summer and that's what I used. Works great and everything is as it was before.

Cheers!
 

· Registered
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
to be honest the "tagged" area isnt to thick or extensive, just on the hood, and a bit of the front lip, so took it into the shop i asked for an estimate to fix the paint on the hood. want to charge me $500 to clean graffitti off my *&^#$ hood.......is it just me or is that way to much....

i'll look around at some other shops(hope they were just trying to screw me and its not really that expensive)

i'll swing by and see if they have any "graffiti gone" at the places round here, cause that sounds way easier then having a shop do it.

thanks guys! i'll try and get a pic up after i get off work
 
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