Im gonna paint my front bumper and I was wondering is there any new flex agents that have come out that are real good for this application? I havent kept up with the latest and greatest in the autobody world.
i use dupont so it may vary, but your question would depend on how "hot" the reducer your using is and how heavy the coat is ....the faster the reducer the less time you need to wait...but even w/ the fastest reducer you still need to wait at least 4-5 minutes..also a heavier coat requires more flash timeI had an issue a while back with solvent popping. How long do you guys wait in between coats?
:1poke: the guy was asking about flex agent, you may want to take a note here, there are dozens of primers that are called primer-surfacer, which can be used as a sealer,not a "Sealent",also there are quite a few primers that can be converted to sealerI work with sherwin williams right now but had used many different products. depending on what product line your using its sometimes call for different procedures. You need to use the plastic adhesion promoter on the raw plastic you have sanded. So what I'm saying if its down to raw plastic it will have fuzz to it from sanding then you will need the promoter and then primer once primer is sanded with 400 grit paper or finner you then will pull it in booth or where ever your painting. then do your normal blow off with compressed air to free of dust and wipe down with your precleaner and your ready to paint. you will need to put sealer on the areas you have primer to fill the fine scratches left by sanding. then you will go with your basecoat and then clearcoat.
As far as acid etching he probably just put adhesion promoter people call it different things.
etch primer is for bare metal parts like I said before adhesion promoter is only needed on your bare plastics parts or if your sanding on plastic and break thru in a major way not just little spots. Sealent is not the same as primer. primer is used after the body work is done and your fillimg all the scratches and imperfections in the body work. sealer is used in the paint booth to fill in all the fine scratches from sanding with 400 grit sandpapper or rougher. Another thing if your painting just a front bumper or any one panel or whatever your doing if you not painting the whole vehicle you don't need to prime or seal the whole panel just the area that is effected. so when you go to put the basecoat you can just cover the spot that is repaired and blend the color across the rest of the panel. If not your going to be doing what you call panel painting which is putting color on the whole panel which may led to the color not matching. hope this helps out
mw is right, but the first thing I would do is check the tech-sheet on the particular paint system you're using, try to use same speed reducers in clear and base as well as the clear hardener,or if you're using high-solids clear make sure you use the same temperature/speed hardener as the reducer in base,normally I wait about 10-15 mins between first two coats of base ,lightly wetsand with 1000 grit ,to get rid of any roughness or dirt in base, spray a medium/light coat of base,let it flash for 20-25 mins before I shoot the clear ,I had an issue a while back with solvent popping. How long do you guys wait in between coats?
Sorry some times I might get carried away. The primer/sealer I use now through sherwin williams does use a converter when I'm not explaining the process in person try to stay away from making it confussing so thats why I explained them as to different things. My boy also found out about bulldog in a bad way I'll just say he had to take a trip to junkyard for new interior panels:1poke: the guy was asking about flex agent, you may want to take a note here, there are dozens of primers that are called primer-surfacer, which can be used as a sealer,not a "Sealent",also there are quite a few primers that can be converted to sealer
try to avoid "Bulldog" adhesion promoter, it may work on small plastic parts, but not on flexible bumpers, I found out the hard way.
Thats cool, a big concern I had was with chipping and flexing. I was just gonna wet sand to prep the bare plastic.
normally that's done to find high and low spots when you block the primer,it's called "guide coat"Why is it that after priming the vehicle people take like a flat black spray can and spray very lightly all over the vehicle?
Why is it that after priming the vehicle people take like a flat black spray can and spray very lightly all over the vehicle?